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Posts posted by WME
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Plan A put a really big fuse in it and wait for the smoke to start
Does it pop the fuse instantly?? this is a short.
If the motor runs for a time and then the fuse pops, this points to a bad motor, dry gears or jammed linkage
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Just wire your radio to go to the house battery or buy a small 12v charger and hard wire it to the truck battery.
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The isolater is supposed to prevent what happened to you.
Your possiblities are
1. You battery is toast
2. You have a phantom load, somethings still on.
3. Isolater is bad and you've discharged the truck battery.
P.S. The truck battery is NOT charged by the converter
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So your alternator is ok and so is truck battery. Check v at isolater going to house battery. If its low then isolater is bad or bad connection.
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NAPA auto has diy chem test for checking coolant, under $20
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Not good, should have 14v+. Check v at your isolater
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Its easy, you don't even need to remove the frame from the MH
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Did you replace the headgasket, thermostat, hoses, radiater lately?
If you did you may just be burping out the remaining air in the system.
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MPG per tank is a worthless calculation. The only way to figure MPG is to record every drop of gas you put in your MH when you are on a 2000+mi trip. Then the math is only good if you have a calibrated odometer.
On our last trip my best MPG was almost 13 mpg, but over the 5000mi trip the mpg was 9.7. 26 ft class A MH
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"Don't confuse me with the facts, my mind is already made up"
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Ain't numbers wonderful.
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Adjusting the brake bias is the most important thing you can do. Drive slower is the other.
Siping helps, but it does not make normal tires snow tires. If you look at modern stud less snow tire they are heavily sipped.
If you are going to continue to drive in snow then snow tires or tire chains are the answer, look for spare rims so that you can easily change the snow tires come spring.
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More good news, how about the toilet, shower and facets ?
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http://www.crystaltek.us.com/crystaltek-vinyl-off.htm
Some folks have good results with this stuff.
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Unhook the brake compensator and wire it to the frame in the full up position. If things change its just out of adjustment. No change then its frozen or you have other brake problems.
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All that's left is wiring, fuse, switch. Get your volt meter out and start checking
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Best plan is to run the vent to the roof. Other plan is a foot long vent with a 180 loop in it. This keep you from splashing going down the road.
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A vent pipe yes.
Get some metal plumbers tape and make a couple of straps to connect the brackets to each other.
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If your going to be offroading much, maybe wide skids would be better than wheels
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OMG say it aint so.
VW anounces that it will cease production of the Kombi after 56 years, this is due to increasing saftey regulations.
P.S
Looks like this would solve your moral delima
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So your planning for a full blown unscheduled walkabout?
What you could do if you really have to get something in the mail is to make a reservation at a campground a week ahead and forward the important stuff there. Just tell the campground that you full time and will be having a package sent there.
Windshield Wiper Fuse Blowing
in Electrical
Posted
Disconnect the wiper motor and see if the fuse still blows. Yes then switch wires are suspect
If not, remove the wiper arms and run the motor