WME
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Posts posted by WME
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I think windows will help a bunch🤪
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Any chance of getting a paint match on the filon?
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Gel Cost repair paste? I dunno know seems to good to be true. However it's sold on Amazon
https://www.gogolonge.com/products/instafix-fiberglass-boat-repair-paste
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A 1986 Toyota gas gauge sender is rated at,
full= 3 ohms +-2
1/2 = 32.5 ohms +-4
empty= 110 ohms +-7
written 110-3 ohms, most universal senders are 90 ohm and reversed, written 0-90 ohms. There are reversed units but the resistance is wrong, 240-33.
You basically need the correct Toyota unit
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Head to your local big box store.
Here is an Ebay replacement...https://www.ebay.com/itm/403419307429?hash=item5dedaa1da5:g:ndEAAOSwIqtfPOnD
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While you have the wheels off to do the shocks, look at the springs, bushings and shackle bolts.
To do the bushings you need to jack up both sides of the rv. Use a rated jack stand ahead of the front of the spring mount. Put the jack under the axle and unbolt one end of one spring and lower the axle. Use the BFH and vise grips to remove the old bushings. Note some bushings have a steel sleeve inside some have a steel adapter ring on the outside. It depends on your original and your replacement.
Warning only do one at a time, so you have a sample of how it goes back together.
There are longer rear shackles available from a car parts store if you want to raise the rear end a little.
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Big Fing Hammer😁 Old rusty car repair mechanic talk
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Lets say shocks are 1x hard, bushings are 2x. Changing the springs is 3x.
Bushings are 3/8" tool stuff and lots of penetrating oil due to corroded fittings. Bushings are 80% of doing the springs. There is some 1/2" tool stuff, like the ubolts
A BFH, Floor jacks and Jack stands are a requirement.
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step 1 new shocks per above
step 2 Replace rear spring bushings (3 sets per spring) With worn bushings the spring ends bang up and down on the bolts. The spring should flex.
step 3 Replace rear springs, OLD MAN EMU seems to be the preferred source, CSR010R or CSR020R depending on things
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Hey Mr. Odyssey 4x4. Check out the $$$
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Elixer is still in business. Contact them with some photos
http://elixirdoorandmetalscompany.com/product/doors/door-hardware/residental-and-commercial-locks/
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OK a little info,, You can reduce the electrical load or get a bigger solar setup. Better yet do both.
Replace ALL the lights with LEDs. 2 incandescent lamps use as much as a coach full of LEDs.
100w of solar and a 100AH battery will give you extended stays. 200w of solar and 200AH of batteries will make you independent. I see you have 2 kids, now days kids use LOTS of power. A basic rule of solar is 1w of panel for 1 AH of battery
Check Ebay and see how big 200w of panels are, then decide portable or roof mount. Portable let's you park in the shade and the panels in the sun. Roof mounted panels are less likely to disappear.
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2x on all of what she said.
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Here is a site with RV pipe compression fittings...https://www.ebay.com/str/recreationpro/RV-Bathroom-Plumbing/_i.html?store_cat=33119674018
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The T you posted looks like it might work. Use a Dremel tool to cut off the rings and see if you can remove the broken T without damage to the hose. A hacksaw blade may also work to cut the rings. The T seals inside the hose, but try not to damage the outside of the old hose.
Ya this could be regular plumber stuff, got a local RV repair shop? Also try for Craig's List for a Mobile RV repair person.
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Need more photos.
But, I 'm guessing that is the output line for the pump. One way is cold water to facets and the other is to the water heater. It looks like the T is broken.
Follow the lines and see where they go.
Your lines appear to be a discontinued product (polybutyalene) and replacing the T will be fun.
Google sharkbite fittings.
You may need to do some splicing. The fittings you have have a flair that goes inside the line and then a crimp ring seals it.
The Shark bite goes on the outside. After you cut the old T out I don't know if the bite is wide enough to seal on unmolested tubing. Thus possible splices.
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A water pump is 2 hand tighten hose fittings (almost universal in most RV) electrical is 2 wires.
Depending on the make the big problem is getting to the thing.
When your home, take a photo and post it. We will get you going.
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U-haul has a motorcycle trailer...https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/Motorcycle-Trailer-Rental/MT/
Will they rent it to you ?????
Plan b. Harbor Freight trailer...https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/trailers-towing/1090-lb-capacity-40-12-in-x-48-in-utility-trailer-62665.html
You will need one of these too...https://www.ebay.com/itm/394078396975?epid=23026549741&hash=item5bc0e7222f:g:f3sAAOSwLb1ig3nA
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Check the bolt pattern on the rotor. I think the 85 uses a standard 5 bolt setup and the 87 1 ton has a 6 bolt rotor AND a 6/6 bolt adapter. So you would need to swap the rotor.
For others looking at this the BIG brakes started in 89 so you would have to swap everything and get a new MC.
P.S. There is a unicorn rare factory 5/6 steel adapter. In 25 years I have seen 2.
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The PO did the best possible thing for that corner.
The molding won't bent on that small of a radius. You need to use 2 pieces cut with a 45 degree angle and fit with butyl tape
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Sounds like a plan. Pretty can happen after you get back to the nest.
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Your going to need to fix the roof. Do you have a ladder at "home"? If not buy a Wal-mart ladder and use tape to do a quick patch. The ladder will travel inside RV easily.
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T, just reading your 3 posts gave me a headache. You seem to be a victim of the curse of an old RV, a rabid previous owner 😱. I'll try to help starting with very basic steps so stay with me.
Wiring color codes 110v AC, green/bare wire ground, white neutral, black hot.
12v DC under the hood. red +, black -. 12v DC in the RV black +, white - (ground) Any red wire in the RV 12v section is most likely a PO addition so watch out for them.
Look at the wires on your battery are they stranded? Are ANY of them solid wire? (bad)
Things to actually do, in addition to a volt meter you need a AC polarity checker.
Use the checker on the shore power to verify it's OK. Then with the RV plugged in check each outlet to make sure it's correct. Then CAREFULLY use the voltmeter to check for stray voltage between a shore power ground and the frame of the RV. Folks on damp conditions and bare feet have been zapped steeping on the metal step.
All good? Then hook up the black wires to the +battery, then hook up 1 white wire at a time until all of them are on the - terminal. Big sparks or smoke stop, un hook wire🤪
Report findings
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It looks like the 12v RV AC is returning to unicorn status.
When the ad first came out they were saying battery powered, 8 HR run time and 4000btu.
The tests I've seen say 2.5hr on the built in battery . To go 8 HR+ you need one of the "solar generators",3600wh, that's as big as the AC unit. Basic math says that's not enough for an 8hr run
At 12v 3600 wh is about 180 AH. A 200AH Lipo is $1000 and weighs 60 lbs.
Solar how's about 80sq ft of solar panels, for a Toy House that's a roof full.
The old saying "anything is possible with enough money" comes to mind
solar panel wiring
in Electrical
Posted
Just connect it. When on shore power or engine alternator the solar controller will limit the solar charge.