WME
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Posts posted by WME
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What I'm thinking, is that everything works with the factory setup. But when the Bluetti is hooked up things don't work. The Bluetti (solar generator) does not have a chassis ground, there is no external ground lug like a real generator. So when it's installed, the Bluetti - (ground) is floating.
So hooking the Bluetti - wire to chassis ground with a jumper wire should give the Bluetti a complete circuit for 12v. All grounds are then common.
P.S...https://www.bluettipower.com/products/ac200max-power-station
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OK full on peanut gallery🤪...Make another ground wire and go from the white wire to the chassis, so two wires where your white wire is.. Check with an ohm meter but I think that the terminal strip with the green wire will do..
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OK faulty memory, I was thinking of a Parallax.
If you completely remove the DC power supply. Then hook up a new 12v source it has to work. I'm not what sort of load the Charge Sentinal presents, can you temporally remove it??
Are you taking the 12v from the Bluetti 12v super DC 30 amp outlet or another port?. The smallest new converter is 35 amps so you are under amped from the get go
Bluetti 12v + to the 12v+ fuse panel, Bluetti 12v- to chassis ground.
First picture red wire 12v+, white wire ground????
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Well this is going to be interesting. We going to be dealing with 20 year old foggy memories.
I think the the original PD has 3 output wires, ground, filtered 12v and unfiltered 12v.
So disconnect the Bluetti and battery from the DC panel. You will need an Ohm meter. Find the - (Ground) and the + with the fuses in. Should be continuity. Remove all the fuses and no continuity, reinstall them 1 at a time, check continuity again one fuse at a time. Some of the fuses will work and others won't. The fuses that don't work, have the other + in on the back of the fuse panel. If all this works a simple jumper between the back and front should get all things working.
Fuses 1-6 are grouped and fuses 7-9 are grouped.
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Angle grinder, solid punch and a BFH.
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Sometimes the 22re has an erratic temperature response. Toyota developed a special 2 stage thermostat to help stabilize things. Toyota# 90916-03070
$$$ vs Stant
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Finish your checks and then a cheap check, before buying fans. Get a small house fan of some kind, open the lower access vent door and just use the to blow air in to the back of the refer. Run electric mode and see what happens to the temps.
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check driver side door jam for color code. 033 or 045 are "white"
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Bump start in 3rd or 4. To much compression in 1st and 2.
A. Does your starter turn the engine over and it won't start?
B. Or does the starter not work at all?
A= fuel pump,,,ign coil amplifier
B= starter solenoid, the contacter disc. Common on Toyotas...https://www.ebay.com/itm/294499462144?hash=item4491892c00:g:ajIAAOSwY8FheX7M
B= bad battery cables...bad ground
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I use 2 thermostatically controlled computer fans to keep cooler air moving around the coils in the back of the refer. You can hear them starting to cut in around 80 degrees and by 95 or so they run constantly when the refer is cooling...https://www.ebay.com/str/applianceandair
They have cooling kits and AC soft start kits.
You figures for the dorm refer are correct, Amps, watts and $$. Small good news is that you won't have to be level for the refer to work.
Before buying a dorm unit check out Marine (boat) refers some of them are 12v direct. That would element the inverter loses
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White elastomeric roof coating. No tar or aluminum fiber roof coating.
Scrape/Clean roof to bare metal. Use 2 coats applied at correct outside temps.
Go to your local big box store. Check the coatings for $$ and warranty. Spend more, paint less...Hows your back and knees?
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The fact that you have two bases that use 194 bulbs means that the PO was busy. Voltmeter time check voltage AND polarity. Turning the 57 bulbs does nothing the polarity is the same rather way. HOWEVER the socket can be wired wrong so voltmeter time again.
A jumper wire and the truck battery are a simple check to verify the bulb works and what the required polarity is.
P.S. 90% of marker light problems are ground related
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Sometimes I post outlandish RVs just to expand awareness of other RVs
Not a Toy but it has possibilities. It sold for $27,000, but the buyer flaked. With some of the Sunrader prices lately, this might work for someone.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-gmc-motorhome-23-birchaven-2/
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The factory microwave was above the sink, look in that cabinet.
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In full shade tree mechanic mode you can change the headgasket without removing the timing cover and timing chain. Should you????
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If you have left hand threads, just thrown in the towel and get 6 new right hand threads studs and eliminate future problems
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The frame is not very deep. Any triangulation you can do on the ends of the crossbars will be a great help in keeping the ends flat.
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Linda these should scratch most of your itches.
https://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/1986-SPORT-28-BOAT-BOATERHOME-258792
https://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/1987-FORD-E-350-CUSTOM--VAN-BOATERHOME-258793
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17 hours ago, linda s said:
I always did love those Scotty's. Maybe because my name is Scott?
The Explorers though have come a step up. The small one is a fiberglass wonder.
Definitely on my Lotto wish list
Linda S
Well get your Lotto tickets early and often😁 It will be sold at the Monterey auction 18 Aug
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Ya I suppose no leaks has a higher priority than purrdy😆.
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Just connect it. When on shore power or engine alternator the solar controller will limit the solar charge.
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I think windows will help a bunch🤪
Trying to wire powerstation 12V/30A DC port to DC fuse box. Progressive Dynamics unit won't accept the current, confused
in Electrical
Posted
Try measuring volts from the red wire on the fuse panel to the ground wire on the original house battery.