WME
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Posts posted by WME
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Batteries, batteries, batteries. Solar panel, solar panel, solar panel.
Space to put them and of course$$$
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I'll see your single slide out and raise you 2.
https://www.motortrend.com/features/2022-beauer-compact-slide-out-travel-camper
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More possibly useless information. My Escaper had a 13.5 k AC and an Onan 2800. I live in the Rockies and camp between 4000ft and 9500 ft. At 6000ft the 2800w Onan was putting out about 2400w. Above 90 degrees it would not restart the AC compressor after the thermostat cycled it. I installed a hard start booster cap and I was good for the rest of the time I had the Toy.
Story time... I was on a dry lake bed outside of Las Vegas the temps were 114+. Arrived at 0800 and filled the oil in the Onan and fired it up, turned on the air. The AC didn't cycle untill 3 AM, no hard start required 🙄. Temps were 95+at sunrise. Poor Onan ran 24 HR a day for 3 days. Had to add oil and 10 gal of gas daily, gas was $1.15 a gallon.
Better starting tech today...http://www.micro-air.com/products_easystart_364_softstarter_microair.cfm
Middle size AC...https://www.airxcel.com/rv/coleman-mach/the-powersaver-series The Mach 1 is 11000 btu and runs 9.7 amps or 11.5 amps in the desert.
More blather, I have had excellent service from Harbor Freight Inverter generators. Both the 2000w and the 3500w, AAYMMV
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Automatic transmission go with 4.88 axle ratio. 5 speed manual go with a 4.56. 4 speed manual no change in axle ratio
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One of the photos shows axle, hub and brake drum all together. Cone washer failure would let the axle come out, but the hub and brake drum would still be attached to the axle housing
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This is pure theory. The first 1 ton axles had 6 hand hold wheels with left hand threaded studs on the driver's side. Old school thought was, the wheel turning would keep the nuts tight. Chrysler did the same thing years ago.
Even today cars with knock offs may have left hand threads on the left side of the car. Same thing wheels turning tighten knock-offs.
The Toyota 1 ton axle has right hand threads on both sides, failure to correctly tighten the lock ring set screws would let axle and brake drum slowly unscrew the bearing retainers and out pops the axle and wheels. Passenger side the rotation would keep the retainers tight. Although the bearings would be over torqued and wear fast.
Any evaluation would require a careful dismantling of the passage side brakes. AND checking for marks on driver's side
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Looks like a real "1 ton". Got a photo of the outer side of the duals.
At a first long range glance it looks like the jam nut wasn't lock and the bearing retainers unscrewed.
5Toyota's comment about new brakes is to the point
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You may have to dig up another coffee can from the back yard. But do you think a 3d x-ray attachment for your cell phone might be useful.
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Occam's Razor. .. A bad rebuild
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1 hour ago, linda s said:
And yet this car is still running and alternator still putting out power after he removes the battery.
Please explain
Linda S
There are different types of alternators. GM makes a very nice 1 wire alternator that hot rodders love.
Once the alternator is running and "excited" it will keep producing power without a battery and the engine will stay running. And without a blocking diode in the wiring system you can't shut the engine off.
However there some alternators that won't produce power when an engine starts untill they are "excited" and that turns them on.
Externally excited or self excited, here ya go...https://eblogbd.com/details-of-excitation-system-of-alternator/
Warning MAY cause headache when reading
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Good plan, one caveat you are assuming the wire is good. From your question it sounds like you have a solid state isolator (metal box with fins)
Check center post to ground, post 1 to ground (truck battery) post 3 to ground (house battery). There may be a voltage loss (.7v) between center post and the others due to diode restance.
Check v at both batteries. The voltage should be the same as the voltage on the 1 & 3 posts. IF the voltage is lower on the battery than the post, then you have a WIRE problem.
When I first got my Escaper I did these checks and found that the wire from the isolator to the house battery was 7 different wires twisted and taped together.
I made a single wire run of 10 gauge wire and gained 1.4v at the battery
The old style solenoid isolators have less v drop, but a limited life span.
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The hotter the engine the tighter the fan clutch becomes. Your description would indicate a bad fan clutch.
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Full size or double. 54x75. It's 1 size smaller than a Queen.
Don't forget the walk through cut out
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I've used Renogy products in my rv and in several systems for friends. There is cheaper stuff, but I never had a failure with Renogy.
This is an overly simple diagram, http://livinginmycar.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/draft-of-my-rv-electrical-system.jpg
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If you are using a pressure reducer, this is useful to take the strain off fittings. https://www.ebay.com/p/673711311?iid=353137715497
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Between the AC and your converter the battery, you are becoming the unfortunate poster child for a criminally insane Previous Owner
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https://faroutride.com/12v-air-con/
https://www.thervgeeks.com/12v-rv-air-conditioner/
Fun reading and a major shock to your wallet.
If you go to a portable roll around unit try, try to find a unit with 2 hoses in the back. (inlet/outlet). If you end up with a single hose unit, you have to follow Linda's install to the letter.
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No pieces and parts for something this old. So an upgrade is required.
Different ways to make things all good. https://www.bestconverter.com/
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Removal of the roof AC starts from the inside.😁 Remove the inside vent cover. There should be 4 large bolts/screws, The AC is bolted down through the roof. Remove the 4 bolts and then a step stool and push the AC up and it should come loose. If it's been silly ones to many times you may have to get up on the roof and use a long knife to cut the glob through enough to pry off the AC.
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I think there is one adjustment pot on the PCB.
Some info...https://www.hayseed.net/~jpk5lad/RV Information/MagnaTek Pwr Converter/rv power converter2.html
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What he said x2
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Lots of info and PNs.
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Well you are this far into a rehab, the floor needs more updating. A Sunrader floor is a SIP design. Plywood- foam- plywood. Good design and quite, BUT it is not supported correctly and over time the load of the walls will cause the edge of the floor to sag.
If you can weld up some frame extension and bracing you can prevent this problem.
Look under your Rader to see how things are.
Best way to remove coach battery compartment?
in General Discussion
Posted
What size (group number) was the original battery? What size is the box?
Have you thought about 2ea 50ah lipos? Instead of a 100ah