scottperkins

It has been claimed that the new technology LED lights can draw as little as one tenth the electricity of incadescent lights at the same light output. For the last week or so I have been researching suppliers and have determined that probably all of the automotive suppliers are liars but that the Marine suppliers due to some Coast Guard testing of some exterior lights etc. are a lot more truthful. Also there are some testing organizations like the magazine "Practical Sailor" that have actually tested and rated many of the Marine supplier LED offerings. So far it appears that the SailorsSolutions Marine mailorder firm has the best product ( as determined by the Jan-2009 PracticalSailor testing. They have a LED bulb mechanism for $39 and a bayonet bulb plug in adapter for about $4.... My Toy home has interior dome lights that normally take the Walmart 1146 bulb. I think these products would work. Further, If I decide to install an entire light fixture, I will get the one that has the dimmer knob on the side of the fixture that would allow me to turn the light and the electrical drain down to real low. Take a look at the links below including the exterior LED running lights sold at NorthernTool. http://sailorssolutions.com Interior lights listings http://tinyurl.com/ygg9to9 http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200327022_200327022 http://svhotwire.com/info/?cat=108

Yes, that is what I am saying, My Factory supplied replacement axle came with rims that do NOT have any bevel in the lug nut holes. AND YET my lug nuts are tapered and beveled AND they are 23 mm which is not available from the aftermarket anywhere I can find. The rear dualie axle wheels studs have a thread size of 14mm x 1.5mm Scott

I dont get it. I have a 1985 New Horizon and for the front I use 13/16" which is a very tight fit and on the rear I use 23mm . What wheels do you use 3/4" socket on? Are you sure ? I thought '88s same as 85's if the rear axle has been changed out. Scott

I dont want to be burdened with having to work around the shout box constantly when I go to read all the other forums. It is not like reading the ticker tape on the Stock Market. I dont need to constantly monitor it after I read it when I first get to the forum. Scott

My rear axle upgrade came from the factory along with the wheels when they sponsored the axle upgrades. However I question whether my lug nuts came from Toyota because even though they are 23mm in size, they are acorn shaped with 60 degree bottoms and they fit my that have a flat surface with a round hole cookie cuttered out. That seems an odd matchup to be that the sharp edge would bear on the smooth slanted wall of the lug nuts. For 3 years I have monitored closely for any signs of torque tightness as if they were working loose, that would have meant that some of the sharp edge of the wheels were deforming against the lug nuts. I can say that the torque remains constant and there are not even scratches on the shiny lug nuts where they meet the sharp corners of the wheel. Obviously my lug nuts are heat treated and hardened. What I have noticed is that there are 8 or 10 different styles of aftermarket lug nuts available that fit the 14mm x 1.5" inch threaded studs and they come in both 3/4 and 13/16 hex socket size but I have not seen any on the larger 23mm size from the after market suppliers. 23mm is closer to 15/16" fyi. There are some lug nuts that are defined as "duplex" acorn lug nuts that have a slightly smaller contact portion that I think might fit inside the hole of the factory one ton wheels. Is that what most people received from the factory with their upgrade ? I'd like to see some photos of lug nuts that are absolutely know to be the Proper Factory Lug Nuts. Any other info or comments would be appreciated. Thanks Scott

The generator I bought was 3000 watts and produce pure sine wave perfect current good enough for electronics. Expensive at $2800 bucks but I wanted to access internet with computers etc. It also would not fit compartment so I mounted in on a hitch hauler that plugs into my receiver trailer mount at rear of camper. They call my type of generator "direct current inverter" types

Honestly it gets in the way and is a nuisance. I'd rather go to the topics of discussion I want to pick. Thanks for giving us the ability to turn the shout box off. Scott

You have given me an idea. I never knew what the thread pitch and spacing was but if the 14mm x 1.50 is correct I am going to try to find other larger lug nuts of a more standard size than 23 mm and replace all of mine. Also important is the shape of the bottom of the lug nut where it contacts the wheel. Actually a 15/16ths deep six point socket will work pretty well on 23mm lug nuts and it not a terrible fit if you did not know. Yes, there is slightly more wiggle with the 15/16 as it is .032" larger but with a six point "deep" socket, it is not a worry. Dont get me wrong, the 23mm socket is what is needed, I only mention this in case of emergency. Scott

I am also looking for a jack to use and prefer heavy duty scissors jacks of the proper rating but I cannot seem to locate any. The Military HumVee was issued a Scissors jack that would work but they are hard to find and no one seems to make any heavy duty larger scissors jacks these days. As last resort' I will get a hydralic bottle jack if I have to but they are bulky and dont offer much lift range. Also the minimum height you start off with is pretty high so be careful with that. You might not be able to get it under your camper when it has a flat. I would especially be worried about how to jack it up if I was on soft ground. IF you or anyone runs across any good deals, let me know. Scott in Atlanta ( as a last resort, I might consider using TWO of the leveling scissors jacks at the same time if I was stranded and it was an emergency ) The leveling scissors jacks wont jack up a Toy Camper because the jack handle is purposely too flimsy to allow that much force to be put into the jack.

So if I understand correctly, a bad connection to an O2 sensor would result in zero voltage and a lean condition. I realize a lean condition could result ultimately in damage due to overheating but I dont think it would have a bad effect on mileage. It probably would improve mileage woundnt it? It would seem that only if an O2 sensor was producing too much voltage and causing a rich condition that mileage would be adversely affected. Is that right ?

There was talk recently about O2 sensors on the other forum that got me wondering about if there were one or two on the 4 cylinder 22RE engines and what happens when they get screwy ? Could they adversely affect fuel mileage? Are they difficult to diagnose and are they costly/difficult to replace? Also mention of malfunctioning knock sensors causing the ECU ( electronic Computer Unit?) to retard the ignition timing which would lower the engine efficiency and mileage. Are there any other things to double check that might be affecting mileage on the 4 cyl injected engines ? Lastly, has it been everyones experience that the Toyota dealers have the computer plug ins and mechanices that know how to diagnose the electronic systems because if they have to teach themselves, I might as well go to another cheaper garage that might claim to have the computer plug in ability. I wonder is there is any way to confirm their claim that they have the proper computer setup to plug into the 22RE engines ? Thanks Scott

Greg- the lights look pretty impressive and the google linked website http://www.frostybytes.com/category_s/19.htm?Click=3 shows that they are dirt cheap. I dont think the bare bulbs would look very good in the cabin however. Do you know of any light fixtures with covers over the bulbs that have a more "finished" appearance ?