Diesel_Aggie

Don't know. Someone should call and see. I believe Transferflow wanted 10 deposits before building their tanks. There is a post on here talking about it.

Going through some old stuff and found my paper Aero Enterprise auxiliary tank catalog from about 10-12 years ago. It shows 4 tanks that may be of interest here. 1980-1999 Toyota Pick Up Long wheel base 2WD & 4WD, Diesel & EFI. 26 gallon replacement tank (we guarantee 20 gallons it may be possible to get more), we make and install this tank at our facility only. Part number 1324A. 1985-1999 Toyota Motorhome, gas, diesel & EFI. Replaces factory tank and uses dead space in front of factory tank. You do not lose spare tire. 30 gallon replacement tank. Part number TOYMH-30. When I look on their website I do not see them listed anymore. Maybe someone will volunteer to call and report back to the forum. http://aerotanks.com/index.html They also show 1980-1998 Nissan/Datsun applications. Part numbers 26 gallon - 1322A and 30 gallon 1322

Versatility. If you run out of propane you could use 12v to keep things cool while on the road. If you ever go through a high altitude area and your propane won't stay lit. If you ever travel north in the winter and your summer propane won't light/stay lit it buys you time to get winter propane. Are these things likely to happen? Not often. Is it nice to have the backup capability? I think so.

I've run Douglas tires on my Honda Civic. It weights 2100 pounds. They did not wear smooth, were loud to start with and got louder. The noise probably won't be an issue on the RV as so many other things are making noise. The wear is somewhat of an issue as when they wear out of round, they create more and more vibration. The biggest issue is giving up 650 pounds of load rating per tire. Ask your Wal Mart for their special order tire book. In many stores it is out for display. I'd suggest looking at it yourself as most Wal Mart Auto Centers I've found are really clueless if they have to do more than scan a bar code. It's a pretty extensive book. You can also order from www.tirerack.com or www.tires.com and others. I've had Wal Mart mount tires for me I've carried in in the past. You may want to check with them first. I've the LT195/75-14 tires on mine. When inflated properly, they don't rub. What I like is these are LT (Light Truck) rating. Generally speaking a light truck tire is going to be more rugged. The following link talks about this http://busdepot.com/details/tires.jsp It would be nice to see this information directly from the DOT. A quick search did not turn it up. The Douglas tires are almost certainly a P-Metric tire. I think we could mostly agree a Toyotahome is closer to a light truck than a passenger car. I'd think someone close to you will mount your mail order tires. Full service gas station? Dealership? Independent shop? I guess the worst case would be to jack the RV up and take the wheels/tires somewhere else.

Raymond: Is that the silver thing I see in the middle? What is it's function? Do all styles of fresh water connectors have that?

Where you screw the hose on, there is a rubber o-ring that any hardware store sells. It looks like one is in there, but it might be dried out. Also make sure the hose is screwed on tight enough. Next in, just inside of where you'd spin the fitting to tighten the hose is another leak point. If it's here, I believe you need to replace the whole assembly that you see there. Your looks metal and that may take some searching to find. All the ones i recall are plastic. If you replace, it's held on by 2-3 screws and whatever type of sealant is under it. I'm not sure how it connects to the pipe inside. You should be able to pull it out just a little and peek. Maybe easy, may take some plumbing skills. Try the o-ring first. It's probably under $1. Oh, almost forgot a very important thing. Are you hooking the hose straight onto this fitting? If so you should go to Wal Mart or an RV store and get an RV water pressure regulator. They are about $9 at Wal Mart and found in the RV aisle of the Automotive area. It could be that too much water pressure is causing the leak. Had that happen on a 5th wheel once. Regulator made the leak quit.

These 3 posts give you the recall number such as 91V062000. I used those numbers to get the actual text of the recall through NHTSA. The three links posted basically say the same thing but it is or at least was possible to get the actual notice from NHTSA in 2008 through the NHTSA web site.

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/downloads/ Is a link to the recall files. It's a 5.8meg zip file that will have to be unzipped. It supposedly has all the recalls back to 1966. In 2008 I did find several of the actual recalls for the Toyotahomes. There were at least two if not three. I don't have that data anymore and it took hours to track it all down. Each recall has a specific number. Since the recall was through the motorhome manufacturer and not Toyota, each manufacturer should have a different recall number. You could compare your rear axle bearing part numbers with those of my 1983 and see if there is any difference. We still have an axle that was not designed for dual wheels that had them added on. By putting part of the weight of the vehicle further out from what the axle is designed for you are putting more stress on it. For example lets say that the right rear was designed for 2000 pounds max weight with a single wheel. Now we add an extra wheel outboard of the first wheel. Each has 1000 pounds on it which totals the same 2000 pounds. The outer wheel is acting as a lever and putting more stress on the bearing than the same weight on a single rear wheel. You also have to consider the axle was designed for the weight/stress of one spinning wheel. By adding a second wheel you have doubled that force. You see similar problems on 4x4 trucks with large, heavy mud tires. Bearings wear out much faster. Here is a video of what can happen when a wheel flies off. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIHCLLrcnIQ If your camper was a single rear wheel, I'd be inclined to run it as is and see how it held up. My opinion is the dual wheel conversion is a bigger problem than the axle weight capacity itself.

85Mirage: I think you have the smallest lightest rig other than a Chinook. Yours probably has the best chance of surviving. The original poster has an Odyssey and if I'm not mistaken those are all heavy 21-22 foot units. Probably a decent gamble on the Mirage, but certainly not a long Odyssey. We've had at least 2 members on here have had the older 5-lug fail on 18' Sunraders. Many say those don't need a full floater either.

You certainly don't have a full floating axle. On any heavily loaded vehicle it is the strongest safest option. If a full floating axle does break, it stays inside the rear end and all wheels stay attached to the vehicle. On a non full floating axle, everything outside of the break will soon be leaving the rear end with the wheels on that side attached. So if it broke the axle a few inches outside of center, out come your duals with about 3' of axle attached. Most Toyotahomes break at the very end so "only" your duals fly off. It can still total out the RV if it happens at speed or kill you. Your axle is from the transition period and is a little different. What I find interesting is that the rear brake proportioning arm is on the driver side just like my original 5-lug axle. My full floater out of an 87 puts it on the right. It is possible you have a 1-ton axle. It still does not appear to be a full floating 1 ton axle designed to have dual rear wheels. It looks to me like the inner wheel is very different from the outer wheel leading me to believe this is still a DRW conversion. My recommendation would still be to upgrade. If you take the wheels off I'd be interested in seeing more pictures.

If you are willing to scan the manuals into .pdf files, I'd suggest posting them here or in the files section. Or on a file sharing site with a link. Requests for manuals on any of the Toyotahomes is one of the most common questions I've seen here.

I look forward to seeing more pictures. This picture looks really nice! Looks like even the striping on the cab is not faded. Is that a CB antenna on the right fender? How is it hooked to the camper? It's certainly nice that you have the 6 lug wheels on the front too. Everything matches, you only need one spare and you can rotate front to rear to extend tire life. I guess not that big of a deal though as it's rare to wear out RV tires before they age out. Remember to look at all the seals on the roof vents, windows, RV doors, clearance lights, etc. Industry guidelines are to reseal every 1-2 years. You may get away with longer in a temperate climate. In the Southwest, the UV rays break it down pretty quickly. It's a lot of labor to clean all the old stuff off and reapply but it's probably nothing you can't do. Just think about how much money you are saving as you scrape. If you use the warm weekends over the winter to do a little here and a little there, you'll be ready to go when camping season takes off. You certainly don't want any water leaks to ruin a nice camper like this.

A fuel pressure gauge as Derek mentioned would be helpful. I've never troubleshot fuel pressure on a 22RE so what I'm giving you is general information. You might consider picking up a copy of the factory Toyota shop manual on Ebay. They are very helpful. If you can find the proper place to attach the fuel pressure gauge you can see what pressure is while running and cranking. Watch the gauge when it cranks with no start. Watch the gauge to see what it reads just before it starts. If there is a huge jump right before is starts, odds are very strong low fuel pressure is your problem. There are probably a mix of rubber and metal fuel supply and return lines on your truck. I'd start by replacing the rubber ones with fuel line. Make sure it is fuel line and not generic vacuum line. If you can find hose that is ethanol resistant that's even better. The rubber dries out with age and you may have a small crack that is not visible to the eye that sucks in air but doesn't leak fuel. Or just a bad fit on one end of the rubber hose. This is cheap and easy to replace and really should be done anyway a preventative maintenance. Next item if your truck is equipped is the fuel pump relay. You might pull it and check for corrosion on the terminals. I doubt the relay is your issue. Next is the fuel pump. Many have a pressure valve in them to hold pressure when the vehicle is off. You'll need to figure out if your truck does. This forum, any Toyota truck forum or the factory shop manual should tell you. Also look at these free training courses from Airtex Fuel Pumps http://www.airtexproducts.com/Technicians/trainingprograms.html http://www.airtexproducts.com/fdss/index.html The diagnostic training is the place to start. There is also parts counter training One last question after rereading your original post. You say this happens on hot restarts only? When you start it up after it sits overnight, does it start right up? If you stop for gas and it doesn't crank over immediately, what would happen if you let it sit an hour? Still need the extra cranking? If it starts fine cold and will start fine after sitting, it sounds more like a vapor lock problem. They are not near as common on fuel injected vehicles. I have forgotten my troubleshooting for vapor lock. Someone else will have to help.

I find two things to be interesting on this Sunrader(s). There are no front windows and the mirrors are mounted on the fenders, not the doors. The only Toyotahomes I've seen with fender mounted mirrors are from foreign countries. While I actually like the closed off front windrows as it eliminates a leak point I have to be really suspicious about that combined with "a small dent on the roof". Maybe this was the impact area and closing off the windows was the cheap fix. Original windows are hard to find. If you can solve the RVs multiple personality disorder, I'd take a very long, hard and close look at the bunk area from inside and out. It would help to see a Sunrader that did not have damage first. Also, fiberglass does not dent....it shatters. So I'm confused there too. On salvage titles in general, it may or may not be a big deal. If you look up blue book value on one of these older rigs it's almost nothing. www.nada.com and see the RV link. So a minor parking lot bump might be enough to total one out by insurance standards and create a salvage title. We all know they are worth a ton more than blue book. I'd say the more recent the salvage title, the more likely it is to be minor damage. I believe the rough industry guideline is to deduct 25% of value for a salvage title.

What engine do you have? Carbureted or fuel injected? My initial suspicion is that fuel pressure is bleeding off when parked.

Before buying a new one come up with a plan to get the old one out and new one in. It won't be going through the coach door on a Sunrader. Removing the back window may be an option. You might be able to remove a front door and seat and go through there. Or you may decide that fixing the old one is a better option.

Yes, it needs to be replaced. They break on the 18' models too. It's something that can very easily kill you or someone else if it happens at speed or on a busy road. It's like playing Russian Roulette every time you drive. It can also total out the RV from the damage the departing wheels inflict coupled with the damage from the RV dragging on the ground until it stops.......hopefully right side up.

New clutch may be a good thing if done with new parts. I find that reman clutches don't have a very good reputation for longevity in most applications. Four new tires is certainly a plus and 114k is pretty reasonable. I'm assuming this is a 22R. If you can get 300k out of your Previa, you should see 4-500k out of a 22R asuuming you start with on in good condition! Isn't the Previa the one where the engine is buried under the floor of the van and a real pain to work on anything? And where engine removal requires disassembling 1/2 the van? It's hard to see much from the pictures as they are rather small. From what I can tell, the inside appears to be in very nice condition. If that's true and there is no water damage then I'd say this is a very good price. With regards to wood rot and water leaks, that is my main concern with any used RV. Pull all the bedding out around the bunk over the cab. Look for any evidence of water intrusion in this area. Check all the seals on doors, windows, roof stacks, etc. If any look cracked or pulled away, search very hard in these areas for water damage. Check the condition of the roof closely. Is there any smell of water or wet wood in the unit? If so it's probably better to find a different RV unless you are a skilled carpenter with lots of free time. The materials to fix rotten wood are relatively cheap but the labor is extensive. Having a shop fix water damage is cost prohibitive on most of these RVs easily costing thousands of dollars. Water damage is like rust....what you see is just the tip of the iceberg in most cases. Check that all appliances work how they should. Make sure and hook a water hose up and try all the plumbing. Turn the gas on an try everything. Give it time to heat up water. Give the furnace time to kick on and blow hot air. Try the refrigerator on gas and electric. Never take the sellers word that something works without trying it yourself. Other than that, check that all the lights work in and out and you are probably in pretty good shape.

You might search on Airtabs and the trucking industry. Some fleets have found them to have an economic pay off. I believe Kevin Rutherford who has a radio show on Sirus 147 Road Dog Trucking also believes in them......at least for semis. He is a very regimented numbers based guy with excellent data. They certainly work on aircraft but the benefit is at a much higher speed than the average Toyotahome is capable of.

After the Dynamat, Hushmat or similar I'd look at your door and window gaskets. Over the years they have compressed/degraded and let much more wind/heat/cold in. You'll reduce sound and make the RV more comfortable. You may also find that the padding under the cab carpet had degraded over the years and replacing it with Dynamat can help here. For tire noise, take a close look at your tires. If they are feathered or out of round or have any other wear irregularity, replacing the tires will help. Just make sure to fix whatever caused the irregular wear as well or it will soon come back. Inspect all the rubber suspension bushings. I guarantee they are rotted, collapsed and falling apart. Replacing these can do wonders for the ride as well as making things quieter through reduced vibrations. You have the choice of rubber or polyurethane. The rubber is cheapest and gives the best isolation. Polyurethane will last almost forever and is much stiffer. You may get more vibration through it though. It is best for anti-roll bar mounts as the stiffness adds to stability. Look closely at your engine mounts. They are also rubber and probably have rotted/collapsed. Replacing them can make a big reduction in engine vibration. Take a good look at the exhaust system. Many pipe brackets will be rubber and will have the same problems as above. Often times you will find a broken mount. The muffler could also have lost most of its packing making it louder. Basic maintenance: Make sure the engine is tuned properly and inspect all your wheel bearings for wear or play. These can occasionally give some vibration. Remember all this stuff worked together as a system when new. The youngest Toyotahomes are 18 years old and this is the kind of stuff most people never think about or replace.

A good shock dealer or manufacturer can always find a shock to fit just about any vehicle. You will need to take some measurements such as the distance between the two mounts and at max axle travel with the axle hanging at it's lowest point. These may not be exactly right, but something similar. This is how you do it for street rods and purpose built off road vehicles among others. Finding competent help is the hard part. I'd start with the shock manufacturers or a local 4x4, street rod or custom shop. Air bag brackets can always be fabricated.

My 22R 4-speed Sunrader made it across I-80 from Salt Lake City to Cheyenne and then down I-25 over Monument Pass and Raton Pass and never dropped below 45-50mph. I hit the hills at 65mph and believe altitudes were as high as 8800'. On steady highway cruising I typically run 65mph but have run sustained 80mph on flat ground with no wind just out of curiosity. My opinion is anything over 65mph in mine is too fast based on it's stability.

I'd go with the advice to do a compression and leak down test. Defective parts and machine work can occur. What does "new" mean? A brand new head from Toyota? Were the valves, valve stem seals, valve guides,cam, etc. new too? Or does new mean rebuilt or remanufactured? Different places use different quality of parts and replace different things. Anyway you look at it, your oil consumption is excessive!

If I'm not mistaken, 22REC is a California emissions 22RE. 22RET is the turbocharged 22RE. If O'Reillys doesn't give you the option you need you may have to guess or try another website.

I'm trying to fix an alternator that will no longer pivot to adjust belt tension. The upper bolt on the thin bracket where it slides comes out fine. The lower bolt that through the steel bracket, 2" or so tab on the alternator and through the back of the steel bracket is where the problem is. The nut removes from the back of the bolt, but the bolt won't budge. I was able to pivot the alternator slightly tighter with a 2 foot pipe and a 4 pound hammer. I could not go the other way with a block of wood and a 4 pound hammer from underneath. I next put a 2 foot cheater bar over my ratchet and had an assistant shove with her leg. The bolt never broke free but did pivot the whole alternator enough in the loosen direction to remove the belt. I'm on the 2nd soaking with PB Blaster. I'm now wanting to remove the alternator to clean the V groove in the pulley. I can't move the alternator either direction. Any ideas? I'll have to take a closer look at the lower alternator bracket. On first glance it appears that it tucks under the left engine mount so pulling the bracket/alternator assembly doesn't seem like an easy option. Toyotahome is a 1983 Sunrader with a California 22R, 4-speed manual, A/C, air pump and no power steering.