linda s
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Posts posted by linda s
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Darn I was so sure my bitty Sunrader would come under those limits but it doesn't. 112 wheel base would mean the rear of the camper couldn't
extend more than 67.2 inches but it's 71.5 inches. The Nissan is a little closer cause 60% would be 69.6 inches.Rear overhang is the same
probably because the nissan has a roomier cab
LS
The longest Factory wheelbase I know of is 137". So 60% would be 82.2" from the rear axle to the back end.
Edit: On top of the 60% rule, I seem to remember reading that they also have a minimum 'Departure Angle'.
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Yeah you got it wrong here. I did the axle seals on my Nissan which is exactly the same design as the Toyota and there is a seal the axle slides into which blocks the diff fluid.
The bearings need to be removed and greased. When the axle seals are bad it doesn't just grease the bearings, it greases your brakes
LS
The small seal you are talking about in the Toyota rear is an extra seal that other rears do not use it is to keep gear oil from getting past the axle and leaking outside not to keep gear oil out of the bearings the axle tubes and bearing spindles are hollow and larger diameter then the axle is. In order to keep oil from the bearings the axle would require a machined surface and the seal would be installed inside of the axle tube witch it is not. The Toyota like every full floating rear has gear oil lubed bearings. With zero exceptions every full floating rear I have had a part over the last 40 years has had gear oil in the bearings case in point if you have grease on your brakes it came for the rear. The semi floating bearings have been sealed bearings for at least 30 years and greased for the life of the bearing exception being GM's Dana roller bearings that are lubed from the rear yes that's right rear drive Chevy's lubed with gear oil. Gear oil is probably the best lube for roller bearings long haul trucks with hundreds of thousands of miles on them have gear oil lubed bearings as do the trailers. The bearings were not contaminated by the gear oil the grease is to keep the bearing from going south until the gear oil washes the grease off.
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The v6 is 86 1/2. Came out mid year. I searched and searched for potential problems and all I found was some guy on a Nissan
site that was complaining because his lifters were starting to make some noise at 400,000 miles. My friend Aaron is a Nissan certified mechanic
and he says it's one of the best engines out there. Mine was as abused as an engine can get. 10 years of winters in Alaska and then
abandoned in a field in New York. for a couple more. Drove it home to California before having any work done. Oil was almost solid
when we finally changed it and Differential was almost dry from leaking seals. Compression now is pefrect, no major repairs just tune up and timing belt, and diff still runs fine
Indestructable by my figuring. Derek I don't know what it is you want me to compare. My Toyota 4 banger Sunrader to my v6 Nissan?
If so my Toyota runs like a corolla with a house on the back and my Nissan doesn't feel much different driving than my Ford Explorer v6
and thats got a lot of get up and go
LS
My Toyota is not really that bad. Little Sunrader it can zip right along as long as there isn't a hill. Problem in Cal is everywhere you go there's one of those damn hills
Hi Folks--
Well, now I'm confused a bit--I wrote to the Oregon engine rebuilders today (not sure that's the right name) who did a new 22re head for me once (I think Derek recommended them? can't recall, but they seem pretty knowledgeable)--Tod Sternwood there claims that '86 was not the best yr. for the Nissan V6, and he would "avoid it like the plague"; he claims that the Nissan in general has "even more" problems than the Toy v6, and mentioned things such as "internal problems(guides/valve,and cam)"... maybe just the '86 is bad?
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I have a Nissan and I love it. Not finished restoring it yet but very powerful and better mileage than what I hear about the Toyota v6. Unfortunately it's not really a choice. In 7 years of being on these groups I have seen 8 nissan v6 Sunraders, 2 or 3 Four Seasons and 3 Odyssey's. All together less units than Sunrader 4x4's. If you find one buy it. You'll love it.
Linda S
Derek you pointed out too me that the22re is only 115 hp. that is 23hp less then the nissan v 6 . nether i or any in our family have any knolege of the nissan v6. My son has a 1994 toyota 4 runner that he has ran and ran and then some a v6 also pulls a 13 foot scamp trailer . as for myself Four 20r fours one 22r and two 22res Four in a row is the way too go for me . AS for the fuel system efi my 1988 22re xtra cab has 200.ooo have don nothing to it.
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Not mine but I'll give the best example of dependability I have ever seen. Saw a guy at a rest stop in Northern California with the most beat up old Dolphin I've ever seen.Early 80's no later than 83
Lived in it and probably never had it tuned up. He said he bought it at about 150,000 miles and when I saw it it had 268,000 miles. Still running and didn't sound too bad.
Still had the old 5 lug dangerous axle too. Not telling you to expect that though. Guy must have been kissed by God for that thing to still be running
LS
I am looking into buying a Dolphin and wanted to know anyones mileage on 70's or 80's manual Toyota motorhomes. What are your amazing numbers?
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Don't quite undestand what your talking about. We are discussing Toyota motorhomes, none of which ever had a 4 lug axle. All 5 or 6 lug but the best case scenario is 6 lug full floater. And why would we replace our stuff with Ford parts when suitable Toyota parts are available. Did you get your groups mixed up
LS
Rear to convert the rear end to 5-lugs you need to replace the 4-lug axles and drums with 5-lug units. The axles that are needed will be either off of a Ranger, Bronco II or Aerostar van. From an '83 to '92 4 cylinders or 3.0L V6 Ranger/Bronco II with a 7.5" rear end you will need two driver's side axles. Only the driver's side will work as the pumpkin on these rear ends is offset and the axles are different lengths (you need the longer of the two axles). It should measure 29-5/32". From an Aerostar you will need two of the passenger side axles from an 86 to 97 model. The axles are all the same so they can be mix-matched (i.e. - one driver's side axle from a Ranger and one passenger side axle from an Aerostar). You can use the brake drums from either side of the above listed vehicles but make sure that they are 9" drums. The 4.0L Rangers came with an 8.8" rear end with 10" drums - these will not work. Prices will vary, of course, but I was able to get the axles and drums from a local "Pull It Yourself" type yard. The axles run about $20 each and the drums will run about $15 each. Be sure to check the axles to make sure they are not bent or worn on the bearing surface and check the drums to ensure that they are smooth or can be turned to no more than the maximum diameter.
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I'm in San Jose and when I don't have time for a longer trip I go to Santa Cruz area for weekends. Nice to have so many choices so close
LS
That's a nice lookin chinnok. A lot of ppl from the Monterey Bay area around this forum. Visiting Santa Cruz or live in the area as well?
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Very small and light weight. Unless you plan on loading up with a lot of stuff., I wouldn't worry about it at all. Just because of the age though wouldn't hurt to have bearings and axles inspected before a long trip.
LS
I recently purchased a 1979 Toyota "Galavan" motor home. After having read the forum on rear axle problems, I'm a little concerned. The home has 95K origional miles. There is no shower or toilet facilities inside. There is a single bowl ss sink, and a hose hook up outside (factory installed).
The rear axle is 5 lug with duel rear wheels. The wheels appear to be welded together. This is a very small unit, but does have gas burners, ref, and full size flip out bed.
I plan to remove most of the appliances as I don't feel Ill really use them.
The seller, who's the second owner for the past 10 years stated he had to problems with the axles.
Should I be concerned. I would like to take it cross country in the near future. Thank You.
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Here is a Sunrader 4x4. Not actory but a conversion. priced very well considering all he has put into it
http://santabarbara.craigslist.org/rvs/2746617002.html
Linda S
Hi everyone,
I am new here, but have read almost the whole site for info, I joined because I am on a hunt for a 4x4 camper, like the Sunrader. I am willing to pay top dollar for the right unit, will even consider something that needs tlc inside, but must be mech sound and good rear end. Location is not a problem, I live in Canada, and will fly a friend anywhere to pick it up and drive it back. I will not fly myself ever! So, if anyone can help me, thank you in advance.
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Some of those imports I've seen are on Land Cruiser chassis. Full floaters everywhere in the world but here. Even the ones that aren't seem to be newer than here
and the axles just kept getting stronger. Lightweight camper on a newer truck I don't think the axle is such an issue.
LS
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Been a while just wondering if you ever checked the size on that gas tank. Love to hear measurements. I know a regular pick up tank will fit a T100
so everything must be basically in the right place. Have you pulled it yet or do you have measurements for it. Sure would be nice to have a 24 gallon tank
LS
Sorry, it's a 2wd :-(
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Derek's right. Mght be easier to find a 18t Sunrader and do a 4x4 conversion. Cheaper too. Remember only 26 factory built 4x4 Sunrader's
Your in Canada so overseas imports are more readily available. You actually have more options than we do in the US. Of course there is always
the 4x4 truck and camper option.
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/pml/rvs/2727922966.html
LS
It'll be a pretty long search. And it's going to be hard to find one with a 'good' rear end, since nobody can agree on what 'good' is!
Where are you in the GWN?
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1987 Dolphins came with standard ajustable air suspension. Don't know what happeded to yours but it didn't come that way. Look here under cab and chassis specs at the bottom
LS
I looked under my new to me 1987 dolphin no air bags on top of the axle are a pair of round coil springs bolted on and a pair of brand new air shocks. can anybody teel me anthing about this set up. did all the 80s dolphins org come with the air bags
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So happy for you.You have a very special little camper there
LS
We fell in love with the Bandit and it is now sitting in our driveway! Very excited here! Drove excellent on the two hour drive home. Gambled on the coach electrical as there was no coach battery so we could not try the lights or heater blower. We like the rig so well we decided that we would gamble a little and just fix whatever problems we come across. Very clean inside and out. Have a couple months to get everything strait before out first multi thousand mile trip! Thanks for all the input and I am sure I will have a few questions as we start getting it in total travel worthy condition. Peace out Jay
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How about just slipping some of these on instead of cutting your table. On the edge you'd have more room on the table too.
LS
Hello All,
Has anyone modified their coach table to have a few cup holders?
I was thinking about cutting two or so holes in table so that a
stardard size cut would sink about 1/4 of the way into the hole.
Has anyone done this, if so, any issues?
Any better solutions?
Thanks,
Dennis B.
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Air bags should never be deflated completely. They will develop leaks. Always keep at least 10 to 20 lbs in them. I usually run mine at 50 for driving.
Yes good shocks are the answer. I like KYB but Bilstein is considered the best.
LS
Thanks for the quick response, guys. I'll definitely plan to replace the 4 shocks. Tumolt, I appreciate your advise against air shocks. I'm curious as to how much flex is expected from the leaf springs when the air bags are deflated. Mine pretty much let the frame drop to the axle (with the deflated air bags stopping further drop). I assume that the leafs were strong enough to hold it up a few inches (with an empty house) when it was all new..l else they wouldn't accomplish much. I've read on this forum about folks using leaf helpers... Is that a better option than having the leafs retempered?
Also, does anyone have some non-air shocks that they're particularly happy with?
Thanks,
Dan
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The Bandit he's going to look at is in Tenessee. Air conditioners don't just cool they dehumidify. I'm assuming he too lives near there and the heat is made much worse by the humidity
An air conditioner will make it much easier to sleep in an area where it really doesn't cool off much at night. Portable AC's don't drain constantly. The drain is in a closed position when in use.
. They will vent off some water but in humid areas you really need to drain them every day. Where your going to put it in a tiny Bandit is another issue.
LS
You should talke to Tacoma Sue she has a bandit.....
I replied on the Toyota Camper Yahoo Group site earlier, but here's some additional comments. My 77 Bandit has a 20R engine, 4speed. I averaged 21 -- 24mpg on trips this summer. My gas gauge does not work so I keep meticulous gas records. A fun part of having a Bandit is people always want to know about it and while waiting in a ferry line, I had someone approach who used to sell them and was excited to see one again. Another consideration is that you may need to be prepared to modify the coach for today's standards if important to you---computer and TV hook up, better radio speakers, and hot water. I stay in places with full hook-ups, showers, etc. I agree with the earlier comment that I would not cut into the fiberglass body or the roof. The fiberglass is heavy-duty and really solid. I would think long and hard before cutting into it unnecessarily. I'd consider a portable ac before doing that. A thought I have about installing ac is that the walls in my Bandit are not insulated and neither is the canvas with its screened windows. Keeping this coach cool may be a challenge when the top is popped up even if the ac works really well. Sue
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My portable ac works very well and even though I have an onboard gen set I never use it. Too loud. In California heat isn't a big problem but when going to the central valley which is very hot I
make plans to be at a campsite with hook ups. Have plans to eventually remove the current generator and buy a honda eu2000. They have more than enough power to run my 8000 btu
air conditioner and are very quiet besides being outside the camper. I have also seen small campers like yours with a window air conditioner below the seats. Just have to make sure there is a way to drain off the condensation. Truth is I would never cut into your beautiful fiberglass sides. It's a beauty. Good luck
LS
I would first be looking at a cab AC install and then if we decide to I would go with the portable ac. So how well does your portable ac unit work and do you run it off a generator? Thanks
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I would expect this Bandit to sell easily for 6 grand. The only reason it's still for sale is because he listed it in cars and trucks instead of RV's so it was hard to find.
The pop top should make a huge difference in mileage and the 4 speed too. With the engine tuned up I think you can do better than 20mpg in this baby maybe more.
I can get up to 19mpg in my Sunrader on flat terrain and I have an auto with of course the taller overhead. You mentioned adding air. Are you talking about to the cab or the coach.
Adding air to the cab can be done easiest if you find a complete system in a junked truck. Adding to the coach is a problem. Not a good idea to try to put a conventional
rv air conditioner on the pop top roof. Just asking for problems. Huge windows on the sides of the Bandit limit installation area for a conventional window air conditioner to
be installed on the side of the camper. I use a small portable floor model in my Sunrader. That way you don't have to make any harmful cuts in the camper and don't have to carry extra weight
when you don't need it.
LS
Hello all, I have an appointment to see and test drive a 86 Bandit pop top. It shows 92,000 miles is a 4 speed straight shift. Owner took in on a trade and does not know much about it. It is a dually. Says he drove it 2.5 hrs home and that it ran and drove excellent. I had him look at the rear end and he says it has six lugs and the protruding hub which is good news. From the pictures there is only a little rust at the top of front fender wells and the over all look is really good. Interior looks well used but not abused. Pop top canvas or whatever material looks to be in perfect condition as he says it is. Asking 3600.00 obo. Anyone know how much better gas mileage you get out of the low profile pop tops? 3600.00 seems just a little high but then you do not see these Bandits for sale very often. Only one I have seen anywhere close to me in the past few years was in pretty poor shape and he still wanted 2,500.00 I passed. Interested in any and all input you all are willing to give. Thanks
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One last try. This place repairs rv refrigerators and they are in Everett, Wa. They might have an old knob. They also have a forum
so maybe one of their customers can find one for you.
LS
Derek up north thanks for the web site, but I don't see anything there that comes close.
I didn't mean to hijack this post from "fine artist" just that I would like to get hold of the same part
As he mentioned the knob has about a 1" shaft, also it is hollow with a D shaped fitting.
Linda s I sent you a PM, thanks also for your offer
Mike
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Wow I wonder how many of those thousands of parts they list complete with price even exist. I'm kind of shocked. I haven't ordered from them but
thinking they had all these replacement parts for my old camper stuff made me feel more secure. Now I find out I'm probably going to have to buy
all new appliances when they break. The site Derek posted looks like a possibility for the knobs. maybe you can jury rig something together that will work
LS
Hi Linda S
No Luck!!!! This is the two reply's I got from the web site you posted on where we might get a replacement knob for the Norcold fridge
At this time we are unable to ship any orders Internationally. We apologize for the inconvenience. We have cancelled your order at this time.
If you have a United States address you'd like to ship this order to we can do that. Just let us know.
Otherwise you can contact RV Upgrades to fulfill your order. You may ask for Deb and tell her that Stag Parkway sent you.
1-866-332-7881 http://www.rvupgradestore.com/
So I reordered, and I got this reply from them today
Actually the part is NA.
Try a local RV Salvage company to see if they have this part still. I have listed a couple that might be able to help.
FACTORY RV SURPLUS 574-262-3327
RV SURPLUS & SALVAGE 574-264-5575
D&D SALVAGE & SURPLUS 231-547-0229
Thanks Linda I will keep trying and let you know what I can come up with. Mike
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Main breaker is turning off ac electric not dc 12volt. Your lights are 12 volt so they still work which means your coach battery is working. That circut breaker or wires running to it might be your problem.
LS
Thank you for all the replies!
I really appreciate it; I'm not that mechanically/electrically knowledgeable, so I am passing on all this information to my boyfriend who is helping me. I have an update-- yesterday we flipped off all 3 breakers in the motorhome (main, ac, and plugs). My boyfriend also looked around and found a loose wire that goes to the distributor in the engine, which he pushed back in place. We then plugged the RV back into shore power and this time it didn't trip the GFI on our house outlet, the electric panel lights came back on, and all the lights inside the coach are working again. So we flipped the main breaker in the RV back on and it immediately tripped the GFI again. Then we flipped the main back off and reset the GFI and motorhome lights came on again. We then flipped on the other 2 breakers one at a time (ac and plugs) and neither of these tripped the circuit. Other good news, we didn't notice a shocking sensation when we touched the metal door anymore.
But even though the lights are on again, none of the outlets in the coach are working (we plugged in a fan and also used an electric plug in tester- no juice), also the coach ac, microwave, and generator wouldn't turn on and the battery is still not charging. The only other thing we found was a broken fuse in the generator.
So I'm not exactly sure what this all means? What does the main breaker turn off…I thought it would be all the electric in the coach, but that is clearly not the case since the lights are all working.
Well hopefully this new info will help narrow down where the problem is! Thanks again for sharing all your expertise
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Cool definately let us know when you get it and if it's the right part. A member of the toyota campers group was the one who was told they didn't
have it, probably from just a lazy employee. I'd like to let him know that someone actually got one
LS
Hi Linda S
I went through all the motions and ordered the Norgold fridge knob today, will keep you posted.
thanks again Mike
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If you both have 89"s by the same maker you can be pretty sure the model number is the same. PPL's online catalog is enormous and someone else said they called and were told they didn't have this part. I took it to checkout and it was ready to take my money so I think they do have the part but maybe not really good people answering the phone.
LS
Linda s Thanks for putting me on the right track, unfortunately with my Norcold fridge I can't make out the model #, the door has been shifting back and forth and kind of erased it,
but I can make out a serial # so I will have to give them a call.
thanks again Mike
I really appreciate it; I'm not that mechanically/electrically knowledgeable, so I am passing on all this information to my boyfriend who is helping me.
soft floor
in General Discussion
Posted
Don't think I've ever seen a shorty Sunrader without a soft spot in exactly that place. Greg has a write up somewhere on this site that describes how how fixed his.
Basicaly took up the carpet and put down 1/2 inch plywood. I didn't want to lose headroom so I used 1/4 inch marine grade and then put c channel rods used for
shelving underneath for more support. Sunrader brochures are in the toyota-camper site on Yahoo groups and include a drawing of how the floor is put together. Plywood, foam another thin plywood
and covered underneath with thin steel. No i it leaked you coach frame strength does not degrade. I have 2 Sunraders. The other one is soft too but not too bad so I haven't done
anything yet. 7 years later it is unchanged, no softer
LS