SanDiegoPaul

I have Mercury Ins and an agreed-value policy of $4500.

As a retired Firestone Store Manager I can tell you that if you are driving on tires that old, you are begging for trouble. There's a reason that tire manufacturers won't guarantee rubber on tires beyond 4 years - and it's related to the reason the tires are date coded! Look at the last digits of the small DOT number stamped into the sidewall. It shows the date in a 2-digit week|date code. So a DOT number that ends in 0405 was made in the 4th week of either 1995 or 2005.

Most times, a HOT start (or crank) problem is a starter issue. A COLD start prob on the ohter hand, is usually a battery.

Open the same panel where you light the flame for the water heater. That's where the drain for mine is...although it's behind other plumbing and not so easy to get to.

Pine stained Tongue & Groove for the ceiling: Cabinets & Drivers Side: http://tinyurl.com/5z8dy6 Ceiling 1: http://tinyurl.com/5huevz Ceiling 2: http://tinyurl.com/6kmbdb Ceiling 3: http://tinyurl.com/6zbort Left Rear Outside: http://tinyurl.com/5mn6ha Right Rear Outside: http://tinyurl.com/6ehxb3 I know you can't see the roof but what we did was cover it with outdoor plywood (1/2") and then coat it with white sealer. Unfortunately the roof still leaks around the A/C unit because the old ceiling was so rotted that there's no way to seal it well. But it looks a LOT better than it used to! Previous owner had literally bolted a piece of plywood (1/4") to the outside roof, sandwiched another like it to the inside, and then covered the roof with black tar. He was trying to patch a 2-foot square rotted hole in the roof from it sitting under a tree. The bolts inside that held the sandwich together, were so long you had to duck to get around 'em or you would get a bloody noggin. Now the ceiling/roof is patched properly and the mess on the outside is painted over. And inside I have no patch to look at, nor any bolts hanging down to bloody my head :-) All in all, I'd say the operation was a success! Wish I had the knowhow to just pull the whole roof off her and REALLY fix it right - but I don't so this will have to do.

The drain for the fresh water tank is on the outside of the vehicle. There should also be a plug to drain the hot water tank too.

Mine's a 22R (4-Cylinder) and 4-speed. 15MPG if I shut the engine off & coast down long hills. Engine on all the time, I get 12. Only place I go with it is a desert site 75 miles East of town twice a month with the Astronomy Club of San Diego. Basically, all uphill to get there, and on the way back I have several hills that are a few miles long. No power steering, no problems shutting engine down on loooong hills.

I was ready to take the motorhome to a dumping station this afternoon when I realized something: Why do so, when I had a double-cleanout in my front yard? Two years ago after having plumbing issues in the house, I had the front yard dug up & a double-cleanout installed. One side of the U-shaped pipe goes up towards the house and the other, down toward the street. The connections are 3 inch PVC pipe. I dutifully backed the Toyota M/H into the driveway and test fitted the waste pipe drain hose to my house's cleanouts. A perfect fit! Three minutes later, both tanks were drained in the motorhome and it was parked in it's rightful place. Saved the 15.00 fee for using the dumping station, and saved at least 45 minutes round-trip to there and back. Surely, I'm not the only M/H owner that has a 3-inch cleanout in the front yard!

My 85 Rogue is undergoing a major repair .... leaky windows & roof over the years has taken it's toll and the prev owner never maintained any of the issues. Yesterday I cut out the wood rot under my biggest side window and put in new insulation. I put a new panel over it, cut to fit the window frame. Then I took the window out to reseal it. I was shocked There's no way the butyl tape could seal this window and no amount of putty will help. There's a good 3/8 inch gap all way around the frame when it's inserted into the hole in the wall. With liberal amounts of butyl tape applied, I can still see daylight in three out of four corners. It's almost as if the hole in the side of the motorhome was cut to fit the outside window flange, NOT the smaller end of the window frame. I would really appreciate some suggestions on sealing this bad leak. I have not pulled the other windows yet but they are all smaller and none leak to the degree this one has over the years. HELP!

Hey Tim glad you're here. YOu have the second one of those I've seen here on this forum. Welcome.

I have the exact same issues; my stovetop works fine so I know there's fuel going to that side of the MH. But no matter how long I depress the button the water heater will not produce a pilot light. I've even duct-taped it down for a half-hour at a time with the gas valve all the way open at the tank. Stilll, no flame will light (I have used several books of matches) RE: my heater I am confused about it too - I see no controls at all.

Post a picture? Never heard of a Granville but hey, before I bought mine I had never heard of a Rogue either!

your description 'doesnt' feel like it's all the way loose' does not make sense. Sounds like you are describing a misfire at part throttle...is that correct? Or is it worse at full throttle? Engine hot or cold? Did this condition exist before replacing the plugs and wires? When you replaced the plugs, did you gap them correctly, and what brand did you buy? Have you run a compression check on the engine? Check all the plug wires for continuity and resistance. I know, you said that they are new. That does not mean they are good. You should see about 1K ohms per foot on good plug wires - and be sure to check the coil wire as well. Speaking of the coil, if it is bad it can be breaking down under load and causing a misfire too. Hope this helps.

Allen the clutch in these things is about as straight-forward as you can get ... to replace. But I am sure that the OEM clutch was more than just the same one they used in the pickup. Knowing that, and realizing that aftermarket parts rarely last as long as OEM's I would buy the heaviest-duty clutch possible to replace it with.

No, the valve cover has nothing to do with the vacuum system.

Anna is it like a regular pickup? have you looked in Off Road places?

Robert the first thing to check is the ground circuit on the bulb(s) that isn't right.

Sure, the EGR can certainly cause a stall at idle. So can a large vacuum leak. You could try using some Berrymans' carb cleaner to clean the carbon out of the EGR. See if that frees it up.

That's how mine is. Wall Socket. When I shut the fridge off, the battery stayed up just fine. I had just forgotten that it was on when it discharged the battery the first time. Since then I've run it on 110V power and it still doesn't get cold, so I'm going to just forget about it for now. Bigger fish to fry than that right now!

Right on target! I turned wrenches for a coupla decades, and I know exhaust manifold work very well. Out of all the things I've done, exhaust work is about the most time consuming. RE: A mechanic turning it down? On that I disagree; I was always taught that 'it's all just nuts & bolts' and I went into each job with that attitude. Some jobs take longer, especially when things break. But then you charge accordingly so you get compensated. I think that any technician that drags his heels on a job is being fed too much easy stuff and isn't really hungry. A HUNGRY tech will do exhaust manifold work all day long.

I would use a 180* thermostat. If it is still warming up on the hills then back the timing down 2* at a time until it's running at normal temp.

Thanks - but I've all but given up on the fridge now. All it does is gurgle but never gets cool inside. I haven't tried it yet real level and may try that one more time before giving up. So far, I've just settled for "comfortably level" but I know these things are supposed to be absolutly level instead. My main focus is the hot water heater now. Cant' get the pilot to light no matter what. I can live w/out the fridge but it would be great to have hot water!

It has a cabover double bed, and at the far back is a bathroom w/shower. As you walk toward the back, there is a chair just left of the door, then the sink & stove/oven. On the right is a foldout bed just across from the side door, and then cabinets & refrigerator before you hit the bathroom. I think it's longer than SunRaiders & Dolphins but havent' measured it yet.

On my toyota P/U and the camper, I have had only the 22R motor, not the FI model. But I always used the full sized PH8a filter. Drove my toyota PU for 180K miles with a regular PH8a filter on it, much larger than the OEM but same threads and O-Ring size. When I got this motorhome, I immediately did an oil change on it - and used the big filter on it too.

Thanks Allen. No furnace here and no brass valves...darn!