90Warrior

So far everything has been leak free as it sits, rather, visually everything checks out. I haven't touched the windows on it yet, they look in good shape. I'm not sure what the sealant behind the window frame looks like. I'm sure its old enough that replacing it wouldn't hurt. I'll do a bit of digging in the forums and see what supplies I need to take on that project. The rear clearance lights and side markers are new-ish units and I've applied fresh sealant around them. The tail lights are another story...while they don't leak into the body and fit tight to the fiberglass, the lens/covers on both have had some of the finest redneck repair jobs done to them to keep the lenses together. I'm pretty impressed at the ingenuity of the repair work but good night its ugly, at least they work((ed) when I brought it home). I do intend to replace the tail lights, unsure of which way to go there so I'll have to do some research first.

Hi all, I've been lurking here for around a year or so. I have a 91 Warrior 321RB inherited from my grandfather a little over a year ago now. He purchased it almost new in '91 and kept it until last year before passing it to me. It's a good truck, immaculate with only 110k on the clock and a stack service records, with only a bit of rust around the hood hinges. The coach is in pretty great shape to be 31yr original, except for a few items I have been slowly working on (procrastinating). The big ticket repair for my toyhome has been the cabover sleeper. At some point previously it has had some leaks, that were patched/covered. Well it turns out the damage had already been done, and the leaks also not fully patched. Not long after I got the truck home, I was inside cleaning it up in the cabover. Lo' and behold, the passenger front side of the cabover floor falls out from under me and I can see earth. Realizing I couldn't do much more damage myself, I began to pull everything out from that corner of the truck to attempt a repair. Peeling back the layers, I discovered a current leak from the corner clearance light had been adding to the old leak damage. I pulled the clearance lights and replaced with new units and a good bit of sealant, no leaks so far. Luckily that is the only leak area I had found in the truck, it has sat thru many rainstorms since and is bone dry. After getting the inside trim peeled back a decent amount I discovered the wood for the frame had rotted and many of the screws were rusted in half. Thus began the big project of attempting to rebuild the frame into working/better condition. I have minimal carpentry skills, I am an electrician so my experience with carpentry is limited to making holes in walls really; so I was going in a bit over my head with this repair.Armed with a diagnosis I headed off to Home Depot to get supplies. I picked up a decent amount of poplar wood boards to rebuild the frame, bcx plyboard for the floor, foam insulation, shower liner to retrim, and a hefty investment in stainless screws and PL adhesive. After many months of procrastinating and doing little bits at a time, I managed to rebuild the cabover floor frame, attach it to the side and front walls, and deck it. I planned to keep the build as lightweight as I could, but I'm sure its a bit heavier than the original which I'de assume probably helps the truck balance out. I haven't taken it out on the road since, but I am confident in the strength of it as my daughter has claimed the cabover as hers and put it through the toddler test. It has survived thus far.

I see where you mention the house battery is not charging while plugged into shore power. Your power converter 6325 is the same as in my Warrior. I just pulled the converter out of mine and rebuilt it; it had the same issue along with a couple others. Its back factory fresh again, all the components inside can be sourced or equivalent replacements. What went bad on mine that prevented it from charging the house batt from shore power, was the internal "circuit breaker" on the output of the charging circuit. Its not resettable, and does not have a replaceable fuse. I cut this breaker out of the circuit and replaced it with an ATC fuseholder. The original part is rated for 10A, the fuseholder I used is wired with 12awg and 10A ATC fuse. That fixed it, and there are some other items I replaced, for replacing sake (capacitors and rectifier). I have included a schematic for the 6300 series power converters.