RobotRichard.79DoLL

I don’t know what else to call the four headlight 79’ dolphins, I order 78’ Toyota pickup parts so I came up with this name to get a little more specific for people. My L43 is a bust and it’s time for a new tranny, I’ve been looking at the G54 and it seems ideal on all fronts. Most come 4x4 and I’ve just come into a little additional cash and a 4x4 conversion is a dream I intend to tackle one day and figured why not now. I intend to continue to add weight over the years, 26 now and living full time in my work in progress and plan on living this way for some time, so although it’s small I think I can cramp most the features I desire with mods over time, like making my upstairs loft a pop top with an aerodynamic canvas triangle roof storage behind that, maybe small balcony. Wood stove is almost ready to go in, I have some very minor rot that I’ve got sealed up now, but one day will need to be done, the back wall probably sooner than later and either want a bay door styled thing or a lifting wall to make for canapoy. Maybe even a wood stove water heater for a warm bath now and again, why not! I’ve taken all the “modern” amenities out so that was some reduction in weight, but had to curtail the music studio until I could compensate the weight. I’m hoping changing to a hefty 4x4 set up would fix a lot of that issue. Would like to keep my 20R, but if anything seems wrong with it when I pull the tranny, it’s pronanly a whole additional 10 k to switch to diesel I’m guessing, but one can dream. my main question is what parts will I need to change over and will I have to weld the body if I went with the least amount of lift options. I know I’m up for axle/ cv swaps, driveshaft, tranny and transfer case, wheels and tires, steering system and likely a new clutch just to polish the whole manual shift system up while I’m in there. Can I do all this for under 10k, I’d like to get the tranny as a rebuilt from Marlin, maybe the differentials there too, but axles and everything else I don’t mind getting from donor rigs. Any help is greatly appriciated!

http://www.toyotarvforsale.com/1978-dolphin-in-missoula-mt/ this is exactly what I have, it’s a great rig, main annoyance I have is I can’t get gas, or go anywhere really without people asking to buy it or how much I paid. Idk where your located, but I’ve seen a couple now (I like to gauge my value anyways from time to time). If your new and want some help I’ll try to check back to see if you posted any comparison rigs! I love the older ones for looks, especially the noir film themed four headlights ending in the middle of 79’ (depending on the headlights you need to order different parts for production timing four lights 78’ parts and two head lights 79’ parts). Also you do know a lot of people say you must change your axle with certain production years with dualie rear wheels, not fondly called foolies by many. I still haven’t changed mine after 10k of driving over bridgeway connectors and horribly potholes roads of Portland OR. Probably should while I’m doing my tranny anyways...

need to swap my L43, burned up after being over weighted and was scratchy for a long while and then just turned angry wet cat, then I found a bearing in my foamy 90w 😕 I’ve seen a few places that the G54 is a straight across drop in plus 5sp crossmember swap. I like the idea of having 5 gears although the 5th would be rare, I also like that all the gears are slightly lower meaning my engine will have a break compared to another L43. I was hoping this would happen in a few years after I recouped finances after traveling. I was planning to convert everything bassicly, over to diesel and 4x4, but either of these would be way more than I have funds now... 😕 Any suggestions on the swap would be great or sourcing parts. I’m leaning towards just doing a marlin order with my core for a refund. There may be some slight shaving in this oil change, but I feel like that’s the first I’ve ever seen so I’m hoping the missing bearing will be my only deduction in funds...

Buy this!! http://www.toyotarvforsale.com/1978-1980-prototype-dolphin-x100-in-bay-city-mi/ This site seems to range in value. Some premo have premo prices, but you can find sub 2k with either the coach interior or the automobile mechanical needing repair, you just have to decide which is more feasible and cheap for you. I got my 78/79 Dolphin for 3,500 but it was immaculate with 60k on it, so I can’t really complain... PERSONAL INQUIRY I need to swap my L43, burned up after being over weighted and was scratchy for a long while and then just turned angry wet cat, then I found a bearing in my foamy 90w 😕 I’ve seen a few places that the G54 is a straight across drop in plus 5sp crossmember swap. I like the idea of having 5 gears although the 5th would be rare, I also like that all the gears are slightly lower meaning my engine will have a break compared to another L43. I was hoping this would happen in a few years after I recouped finances after traveling. I was planning to convert everything bassicly, over to diesel and 4x4, but either of these would be way more than I have funds now... 😕 Any suggestions on the swap would be great or sourcing parts. I’m leaning towards just doing a marlin order with my core for a refund. There may be some slight shaving in this oil change, but I feel like that’s the first I’ve ever seen so I’m hoping the missing bearing will be my only deduction in funds... jusss me and my booskeees, home bumming it in perpetual incomplete project after another. Tranny swap, wood stove, then Arkansas till mid springgg.

My dolphin is a 79’ home 78’ truck w/ all tires being the 14” and the layout is like the 78 300, does that make sense? When exactly was the recall period?

I have the L43, but I also think the gear ratios were likely changed because when I have almost no weight in my rig I can tell it’s spinning as if it’s in to low of a gear (like riding a bike without shifting back up after climbing and your legs are going so fast, but your speed doesn’t match). I couldn’t imagine the hilux with these sized gear cogs because when I get right around the 5,000lbs sweet spot it drives faster than totally empty. Now I’m at 5,800 and it’s gotten a little slower, but I still have some reducing to do. My gvwr is a little odd.. my gvwr kind of confuses me along with psi suggestions. Does anyone else s have similar information or can clarify why it says dual as a psi or what the PR after the 7.50 x 14 means?

Mine has both stacked bars for suspension, but also has orginal air suspension I believe to be orginal to the the rig from what I’ve read before. It seems like the air suspension isn’t all that common from year to year? why do you say we’re top heavy, just because of the added roof, I’ve done quite a bit of reconfiguring inside and built a loft/ storage area two feet from the ceiling and some totes take up all that space. I’m now concerned that I should have designed all weight to be lower to the ground. Currently it is lop sides a bit, but I intend to put my wood stove and build a larger kitchen space for prepping along with a gravity water system likely in the same area depending on difficulty of getting it to the black water. The benefit to this, plus stripping the bathroom and rear kitchen down is that although some of this weight is higher it does all sit right above the rear axles now as well as the rear air suspension, so I felt the trade off was sort of worth it..

I’m confused why you told me I needed a GO82 axle, but now your saying I need to change it. I found a very reasonably priced one for $150 in my area, my main issues is space to do the work currently and finances stretched in many areas that even $150 is a bit of a hassle to free up. I have no issues doing this, but it may have to wait till summer, it seems like if the rig has gone 60,000 prior to me and another 8,000 with me if I’m careful I should be okay. My dad has been a heavy construction mechanic and when I tried t9 mention this to him he really didn’t seem to be concerned him self and it’s his space I need to convince to use.

I know this post is old and I’m a new member my self, lurking for a bit longer than that, but the whole oil discussion amongst someone’s serious concerns with no attention being given to updates feels like classic toy home forum farting around. Is it just me or does no one read the OP full description either? I’m just btcin to an empty audience to make my self feel better after a largely dismissed post or two, don’t mind me, have a good day carry on and let the child in you burst forth in this toy kingdom.

Mine says good to GO82... it’s the five lug, but I thought I saw somewhere a poster mentioned that it depends and only certain years were recalled. I did just find a rear axle at a sister location to a local yard that will send it up to the Portland location for free and it’s $195, but money is tight and it’s getting a little nippy for mechanical repair projects that aren’t needed... here is a photo of my rear wheel set up, with the cover on (yes I painted it oceanic colored and am going to be that guy with RGB under glow light kit so I can be cruising on beach street 24/7)

right on I will check later tonight, what am I looking for, or is it easier to say what I’m not looking for?

does anyone actually read the posters original text, in full? Again I am going to try a speedy sleeve as I think it has to do with a worn yoke shaft, also as stated within the first few sentences it is a manual transmission...

I haven’t read the relating posts don’t know what’s been said and I have a Toyota Dolphin 1979 (78 4Headlight) so my experience might not be exactly helpful. What I did was instead of removing the pieces like I thought of doing at first till I followed them naked ceiling and realized they are the support so I cut some wood to the exact length and added it, thusly adding to the original support design just with more umph. Downside extra weight of materials and the orginal in my case is also pretty wrecked so really it doesn’t add much of any worth, upside, added support of two sticks are better than one and what not even if one stick is a zombie. The curve poses more issue, but there are definitely some woods you could use like a very hard wood, very thin like you would see boats made of and some half dome roof farm structures use similar stuff. You could make it look nice by putting it on the visible side of the ceiling even if you want, I’ve used a bit of choice walnut here and there in my rig, but might not look as good with a light ceiling. Anyways that’s my .02, add and make rad.

If you read my post you would know I have five lugs, if you got 1,500 I’m down to take you up on that generosity. In the meantime this young and dumb 26 year old is just gonna be very nice to his old lady and keep her on the road as long as possible. I’ll be getting the balloon payment to this property I happened upon in a couple years at which point I will upgrade everything, this also being mentioned in the post.

I’m building the wood stove my self as I want it micro sized and know a lot of weilders, I am spending good money on all double walled chimney parts indeed as well, thanks for your concern. @WME pretty sure I see you post a lot in here and even on a discussion specifically about the above posters main concern, which I addressed personal inquiry and concern already, but would honestly have imagined the almost micro speed bumps of the highway road connector sections would have jiggled anything loose that could after literally doing small bunny hops. 40-100 times a day 3-5 days out of the week at 40-50 mph (wish I could go slower). anyways I think it might have even been you who said that it also depends on who produced the toy home that some five lug wheels and years of Toyota are in fact inferior to the six lug, but not of the same concern as the recalled five lugs. Do you know if that is true. I was assuming that mine might be in the okay list because I don’t think the manufacturer of my rig is on that list, plus seriously Portland bridges are horrible and the pot holes on some of these streets, well I’ve seen smart cars and slug bugs being eaten whole, whoop gone, just like that, where they go no one knows... My 20R struggles past 50mph even with a light load so although that is still fast, having the smaller body and being a pretty conscious safe no music in the cab type driver I’m hoping if it ever did horrifyingly happen I could just bobsled instead of slip and roll... I do think about actually wearing my seat belt from time to time, but I figure if I’m gonna get in an accident and my dog can’t wear a seat belt, solidarity, that yyyy is my world.

So I had to empty my storage locker a few days ago and realized real quick that my 79’ Toyota Dolphin Manual speed 20R (four headlight 78’ parts) has a very low capacity for weight despite my GVWR being higher than the on-site average. So I am new to this forum and to the toy home family. I’ve done some good work already, got it through DMV with flying colors. Did standard fluid/ filter replacing, spark plugs (no wires), thermostat, battery terminal wire clamps, batteries and wiper blades right from the get go. My baby honestly hasn’t needed much more and I’ve put on 6,000 miles over the summer working on her, driving to and from Portland, to and from country camp spots when I’m tired of my city spots. She has done well, generally not to much start and stop, but if I do I always let her warm back up in between errands if she ever closes the temperature gauge back up. In that time a few things popped up, my rear seal from the tranny output side needed replacing, that didn’t quite solve my problem so next I need to add a speedy sleeve and hope that fixes my minor leak, which I’ve just been adding a 1/4 quart of oil back into the tranny. I’m realizing now I need to go check my rear gears for oil now too... Anyways I don’t think that is my main issue right now. I also messed the tourque bolts a bit on head gasket in the dark one night so I went and replaced that gasket which didn’t have the 1/4 moons anyways so now it does. My carb has also needed some tuning and I don’t think the person who touched it last did a necessarily great job and it was lower on gas than I realized when he did the servicing, maybe almost empty (gas gauge works for the first gallon or two and then drops to zero till I refill again, I’m 26 during a pandemic so that doesn’t happen every trip to the gas station all the time...). Really though she has been a dream ever since, but I’m nervous I may have done some long term damage and something should be replaced, but I’m not sure entirely what yet because nothing has actually broken just worn, can it be the case that if it’s babied from here on out I may be okay? Synopsis will lead you all to tell me yes or no I’m sure. so I may have been a touch over capacity for awhile longer than I realized 2-3 weeks of slightly to much weight. Thinking back when my fat friend got in the car one time I accidentally drove in 3rd gear for ten miles on the highway without to much issue at pronanly 45 mph, which normally my dolphin is very picky with when to use which gears, big difference in uphill and flat gear choices of speed. So there was this light dry sort of sounding whisper from my tranny for awhile. I kind of shrugged this off because it took me awhile to figure out the main deal issue and the tranny was way to low of fluid once, pretty low once more and just 1/4 qt drains every two weeks and then it’s back up to perfect. Engine has been okay mainly, the radiator fan warbles just a bit in rotation and probably needs a new fan clutch eventually here, I don’t think it’s damaged enough to not keep up with the current cooling though, just has a bit of noise from spinning off axis from time to time... Now the tranny has gotten pretty warm a few times I think, possibly that or the engine or both it’s hard to tell when the exhaust manifold is busy frying an egg while I’m trying to tell. The engine is building up a lot of residue, I don’t think from any leaks, but I’m not sure. My dad is a heavy weight machinery mechanic and I have another good friend is a mechanic so I’m always being schooled on stuff, taken out a few engines, taken apart the engine heads, can handle general maintence type stuff, but yeah, generally don’t like opening up any main components without someone around to help a bit or ask questions, getting better though, definitely after this. So when I warm the rig up it gets a little higher in the needle position than normal. I opted for the lower engine temp thermometer at 180 not 195 if I’m remnering the numbers right. I’m not sure why this is, when I start driving it goes down most the time unless I’m pushing the RPMs a little high I think, I haven’t installed my after market tach yet which I should, but not sure where all the parts are yet... It also was having this horrible rattle for awhile right where the stereo is, I had to shove some paper in the 8 track deck all the way pushing on the two sides of the opening, this issue has gotten better, but still concerning in general. The hood is pretty hot, not burning, but definitely slightly more than just warm, sometimes when I’m just in the city I pop the hood to the latch catch position for added air flow (i know I know). Also was being a little bad about blocking my defrosting vents inside, but never used them much and have been keeping my dash clean and building a little organizer shelf/ puppy play station while moving the passenger seat to the back in place of one of the water tanks next to the soon be wood stove area. So I’m bassicly looking for suggestions of things and ways to check what parts may have taken a bit of a hit. I use 10w-30 high mileage and add extra DZZP 500 miles into the 2,500-3,000 oil change cycle. My oil stays perfectly clean for the longest time too, like honestly concerningky slow as if it’s not even being used or cycled through which would explain some of the engine heat and sounds of possible wear coming from that or the tranny maybe both. Please any help would be loved and questions will be answered, insults will be ignored, young, savvy and proud.

So the title says a lot I’ll start by the smallest questions after some background. I bought this sweet little Toyota dolphin 1979 at 60,000k pretty sure it wasn’t 160 by condition and the person I bought it from talked to the owners previous a bit. It is the rear kitchen bathroom model with the 78 truck model (last of the four round headlight models ever made, which I love in all it’s noir glory). The inside was immaculate until the person I purchased it from let water damage happen at two of the three air vents, but nothing to drastic, just needs to stay dry from here on out or I will have problems... My rig had also been sitting for seven years unused, but both the person I purchased it from is a mechanic I’ve worried with and so is my step dad so I have some experience and have done a bit of work, enough to get it through OR DMV >50 particle parts of whatever they measure (they say I done good). Changed spark plugs, filters and fluids, changed all the terminals to sauder sockets for batteries, both couch and rig batteries, gasket seal, wiper blades... then honestly not much else needed anything and it runs like a champ, but it’s lots some umpff I think from the unfortunate tranny damage. I’ve taken it 6,000 miles so far in 4 months do lots of errands ronovating and living in it at the same time (ugh). Small camping trips, daily cruises of 50+ miles anytime I didn’t feel like staying in Portland neighborhoods. So I know the beast can run, my only concerns are really tranny related. the gvw is odd on my rig, as well as the tire pressure suggestions. Says only 20psi in all my tires, which just can’t be right. Then it also says gvwr 4600 and fromt 1850, so am I the rare 1 ton? My dual,y configuration begs to differ (5 bolt, but I think I’m safe from dismantling, Portland potholes and bridge bumps sure as heck proved that..) it’s made by dolphin camper company, everything says 78’ except my VIN on the inside door label and title is for 79’ definitely ordered some wrong parts at the start. My tranny leaks a bit at the yoke, replaced the seal and figured since it still leaks I need to add a speedy sleeve and will, soon. I have figured out I need to add 1/4 qt ever two weeks or so, but in my young ignorance I let the tranny fluid get very low once, pretty low once, and lower than I liked one more time learning my lesson. I hear a slight sort of friction, sand papery, grumble growl that I believe is from my tranny. I’m hoping with care and learning the truck fully it will last another five years when if I decide to keep it I will likely throw a five speed in, possibly go diesel and definitely 4x4 so everything will get redone anyways (balloon payment from my property). I know I could just buy one more suited to this, but I have done a lot of nice interior renovations with hard woods and incense cedar, plus configurations for my music studio space requirements as I write and record music. How worried should I be of this noise? Is it possible that it is just the yoke causing noise as it continues to ware? I wanna put a wood stove in; my heater doesn’t work and whoever messed with it, really messed with it by trying to wire what seems like a circumnavigation technique of sorts for the fuse. Anyways fudge all that I wanna the ascethics and warmth not replaced by any buzzing gas heater. I found a sweet stove door, but may still buy a small barrel stove or I was thinking smoker and slapping the door on that, possibly building it from scratch with one of the welders I know. I want it very small, think three shoe boxes stacked together small, I have the 17’ dolphin after all and don’t use my bathroom but for storage, so I’m not heating much. The real logistics is the chimney, so far my thoughts are on this cheap telescoping stuff I’ve found on discount, double wall stainless steal normally $200 per 11-19” piece. My thoughts are that I can put the first movable section just past the exterior wall and then up same thing, meaning I could reduce the wall out chimney down to about 3-4 inches additional width and 4-8” additional height when driving. I know they say it needs to be three feet from nearest roof contact, would this be negated altogether by being 12” away from the exterior minimum before heading up likely 8-16” upwards in active use? I want to keep it as low profile while driving, but have it be legal for any inspections, under what curstances would I even expect an inspection of this sort of thing? Also how do I safely close my gas lines from previous heater? I was thinking cutting it back as far as I can find to get it away from stove heat source and then welding a cap, but would gas stay stagnate in that extra tubing? Would I need to get all the way to where it tees of from mainline and do the cut and cap there? I’m going to likely put stove oven where my closet is, I have the rear kitchenette and bathroom floor plan and this seems like the best central location, plus the other side has already been completely reconfigured and doesn’t have the space... Also I can make a cold air channel from the old heater exhaust port that will come from under up to the stove, negating smoke going through that area and ensuring good air flow without getting too fancy with the chimney, well fancier than I intend to go with the somewhat collapsible chimney style. Thoughts, questions, likely ignored concerns... all is appreciated. I want to not be stuck solely in southern states 1/3rd of the year and like off season camping for quite scenery, plus I grew up cross country skii camping so that may be a necessary reboot of tradition! other than that I love the little old school gal, perfect size for me and my babe, a two year old neurotic blue and red heeler who is my best travel companion, alarm(daddy does the castle doctrine protection..), and cuddler. If you see someone with a natural mural pairing on the back, oceanic colored mirror bars, door handles, tailgate and smoky the bear plates cruising through your state and an awkward chimney coming off the side, that’s me!