Gulfstream Greg

Sounds like the unit itself might be bad if you have the fuses pulled and it still resets. Do all the 12 volt dc electrical systems work with the 6300 turned off?

Re you actually going to rebuild one using the honeycomb. It sounds like a cool materiel's. How do you fasten it together and what about fastening such things as windows and cabinets to the shell etc?

Your gas mileage seems to be about right. Very few get over 16 mpg. I have a 22 gallon tank and I found that when it shows empty it still has almost 10 gallons in it. I plan to drop my tank and replace the sender, making sure that its set up correctly. If I show empty and I have 8 or 9 gallons left its like russian roulette wondering if I am going to run out of gas. I will try to find that manual tonight and get back to you on the stock size.

I think the tank is 17 gallons. I have misplaced my Chilton's but will find it soon. Here is a link for new replacement tanks and there are no 10 or 12 gallon tanks. http://www.quantaproducts.com/products.asp?dept=396 Your gauge is probably off.

I used a product called lexel, might have the spelling wrong. It comes in clear and white. My preference is not to use silicon based products. I sealed where the window fits into the gasket. At the corners the gasket sort of buckled out acting like a catch basin.

I found that changing the transfer case ratio only changes the mph figures under the transfer cases. Here is a screen grab.

Maybe I am using that calculater incorrectly. Its showing me that with a 28.5 inch diameter tire, 4.88 gears, 2.28 transfer case ratio and a A340 auto at 65 mph in OD (4th) I will be turning 2638 rpms. With the 5.29 gears I will be turning 2860 rpms at 65.02 mph. With the 5.71 gears in 4th I will be turning 3087 RPM at 65.02 mph. Like I said maybe I am using the calculater wrong or its wrong. But maybe I am wrong wanting to keep the rpm at around 3k at 65 in OverDrive. With the 5.71 gears 3rd gear at 3087 rpm is 45.84 mph to get up to 55 I would have to take the rpms up to 3705 in 3rd gear. So maybe a higher ratio would be a comprimise. 5.29 in 3rd at 55 mph 3433 rpm. 4.88 gears in 3rd is 3166 rpm at 55.01 mph. My thinking is that I want to be able to use OD (4th) without it searching between 3rd and 4th constantly and to not lug the engine.

Nolan - not really sure what ratio I want to go with. Tire size is going to be the same as it is now 215r15. The gear calc here http://www.toyotamotorhomes.com/files/mphCALC.xls is telling me that 5.29s at 3000 rpm will give me 68.2 mph in over drive. At 2800 rpm in od 63.6 mph. The 4.88s is 69 mph in od at 2800 od is 73.93 mph. 5.71s at 3000 rpm is 63.19 mph od and at 2800 rpm in od is 58.97 mph. At 3100 rpm I would be running 65 mph in over drive. Using that info what rpm should the engine be running considering its moving 6800 pounds down a road that is never flat. The idea would be able to stay in OD with out the engine lugging to much. If the calcs are correct I am liking the 5.29s. I do believe my stock ratio is 4.10 and at 3100 rpm in 3rd gear I run 65 mph. In OD to stay at 65 mph I run around 2200 rpm which matches the gear calculator. Greg

Thanks Nolan What I really want to do some day is change the gear ratio. Doing the front IFS though scares me. Not because of getting greasy but because I might not have the proper tools to do it. Guess one day I should sit down with the shop manual and figure that out. The rear should be a piece of cake. Looking at the costs I see the third members selling for $1000 at http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/diff/pickup_diff.htm#8diff But I do not see anything for the front. It looks like I would have to build that myself. Looks like alot less dollars, perhaps that would be the way to do the rear also.

Here is a 18 ft V6 sunrader for sale on craigs list http://sandiego.craigslist.org/rvs/283987781.html

I got our 18 4x4 weighed at a public scale. 6800 pounds fully loaded for a 1 week trip. Our first trip to the Sierras was with a turbo that was not working. The rode that operates the waste gate had come off. We did not know until after the trip when a friend brought over a boost pressure gauge. Because of the lower compression we of course were making less horse power than a 22re. But it gave me a feel for the difference between turbo and non turbo. If I ever do buy another toy home it will be a V6. Motor swaps here in Calif are possible but one must follow the rules. To put a V6 which is fuel injected in to our toys it must have a fuel pump in the sealed tank, the correct warning lights on the dash, the v6 computer and everything else the v6 had for smog. If my turbo ever blows up I will stick with the turbo because the truck says turbo every where even the seats. But there are some substantial horsepower gains with after market turbos ($1800) and of course engine mods. A tricked out motor and a turbo that gives 9 pounds of boost would be sweet. For reference the stock boost is 5 to 6 pounds. The oem turbos have a reputation of getting holes burned thru the waste gate area and the exhaust is too small. They also take a long time to spin up. The newer t3/t4 aftermarket turbos spin up right away. Just some more stuff for you to chew on. If you find a V6 buy it. You will be much happier.

I have a question regarding axles. I have read that for the turbo and V6 trucks that the rear end and axles are more substantial than those that came with a non turbo 22re truck. Would that also apply to the front axles?

I would put the biggest one you can fit in. They also make some that mount on the frame rail and some with their own cooling fans. A transmission temp gauge with the sensor in the pan is worth its weight in gold. Placing the sensor before the cooler woks well also. As for installing a locking torque converter I think that is transmission model specific. maybe someone else has better knowledge on that. My 86 does have a locking converter but its also a 22rte turbo which uses a different transmission (the V6 model) than a 22re. I suppose you could always switch out the tranny but its probably not that simple, computer issues etc.

I'm not sure but you might have to change the computer. If you do a switch, drop in the best clutch you can buy because with the extra weight its going to wear it out quickly. As far as performance gains I am not sure about that. Auto's I think have a higher towing capacity. I don't think you will see a big difference in gas mileage, it may actually drop unless you are willing to downshift as often as an auto would. That brings up another point, lugging the engine. The reason for downshifting. Lugging an engine is very bad for it. You may still not be able to use 5th gear unless going down hill. A rear end gear swap would be a good idea before a tranny swap. I have considered doing a rear end gear change but I also have to do the front as well, much more complicated. For two wheel drives its really easy to do the swap. Personally I really like having an automatic. But then mine also has a locking torque converter like the V6 models.