dayoff53 Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 Hello, boys and girls! With the weather too cold for my honey and me to do any actual camping, I keep dreaming up projects for the '92 Winnie Warrior 321RL. So far, we have only slept in it one night - and we did alright, but the mattress was a little thin and smaller than it needed to be. This is the mattress over the cab with the "D" shaped cut-out. It is a couple inches shorter and at least 4" narrower than the platform it sits on, so there is room for a bit bigger mattress. For a wide-body like me, those few additional inches would be great. Two days ago, a friend was showing me his "new" 2001 Minnie Winnie. The cab-over mattress is split lengthwise at an angle, so the top piece partially overlaps the bottom and it has a board of some sort built into it, providing support over the "D" shaped cutout above the cab. This is apparently fairly standard in newer Winnebagos - I don't know about other brands. Anyway, I would like to find a mattress like that for the Warrior but have not had any luck finding one on the internet so far. Does anybody have a suggestion where to get one or have one made? Does anybody even know what I'm talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Do you really need the walk through? I had a local mattress co. make two for me with 4" foam (looks like a real mattress) then I put a 2" walmart memory foam pad on top of that. Then I put 3/4 plywood down underneath and that gave me a really nice bed with out the lumpy spot in the middle 48"X77" the other one became a bed where the old very uncomfortable couch was. Getting through the cut out while you are moving is not exactly easy and probably dangerous any way. I did save the original fabric from the cut out and glued it to the underside of the plywood for looks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dayoff53 Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 Do you really need the walk through? Well, no, probably not. We got a big console unit to put between the front seats and, even if we could get up while moving (not likely, given that we are both large people), the console pretty much eliminates that possibility. A sheet of 3/4" plywood seems like a lot of weight, though. Does it really have to be that heavy? Maybe a thinner piece of oriented strand board would work just as well? I like the idea of saving the material from the old "D" piece of mattress to mask the hole! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajadulce Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 I need to update the pics on my Sunrader topic as I've just recently finished up the last of the interior wall construction which was the overhead cab area modifications. Lots of fun stuff. Way too much to list in a single thread without boring you to tears tho. .. anywho, the bottom line is that after years of sleeping on VW camper fold out sectional beds, is that you should replace your sectional mattresses with ONE solid piece or at the least a solid topper such as Mainaeh. The problem with sectional mattresses is there is no support at the seams to pull from surrounding mattress area regardless of how firm they are. Maybe I've become that princess with the pea, but sectional mattress beds are a bad design and something I'd eliminate if you are replacing. Good for the kitchen dinette area and the occasional guest that needs a place to sleep, but make your main sleeping bed as comfy as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dayoff53 Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 The problem with sectional mattresses is there is no support at the seams to pull from surrounding mattress area regardless of how firm they are. Maybe I've become that princess with the pea, but sectional mattress beds are a bad design and something I'd eliminate if you are replacing. Good for the kitchen dinette area and the occasional guest that needs a place to sleep, but make your main sleeping bed as comfy as possible. The reason I liked the design of the mattress in my friends 2001 Minnie is that the join is at an angle so that one side overlaps the other on a 45 - with a good foam mattress, this seems to largely eliminate the lack of support problem at the seam. On the other hand, a one-piece mattress certainly has advantages and, given that we won't be crawling from the passenger seat to the back anyway, there is no real reason to maintain the access. Last night, laying in bed, I was pondering how to do it without adding as much weight as the 3/4" plywood that Maineah talked about. It occurred to me that a much lighter board would suffice if the edge of it was stiffened and supported at the "D" cutout. I was thinking maybe something like 3/8" plywood with an aluminum angle iron along the edge so you wouldn't break it by climbing up or sitting on the edge. What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 I don't think you'll see a great difference in weight between a piece of plywood the size needed whether you use 3/8" or 1/2". Yes 25% lighter, but 25% of how much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dayoff53 Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 I don't think you'll see a great difference in weight between a piece of plywood the size needed whether you use 3/8" or 1/2". Yes 25% lighter, but 25% of how much? You're right - the difference between 3/8" and 1/2" will be slight. Maineah had suggested 3/4" - double the weight of 3/8". Do you think 1/2" would be strong enough without additional support? What have other people done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seattleguy Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 I agree with going for a 1 piece platform/mattress. We did this when re-building the upper bunk on my Nova Star. I got a 4 or 6" memory foam topper (can't remember how thick now) which is really comfortable. Can see some pics here of mine. Now I don't remember how thick the plywood we used is, either... http://tinyurl.com/4gl68va Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dayoff53 Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 I agree with going for a 1 piece platform/mattress. We did this when re-building the upper bunk on my Nova Star. I got a 4 or 6" memory foam topper (can't remember how thick now) which is really comfortable. Can see some pics here of mine. Now I don't remember how thick the plywood we used is, either... http://tinyurl.com/4gl68va Thanks for the link! That looks like quite a project and it came out great! I hadn't thought about actually rebuilding the bunk area - everything is in such good condition, I hate to tear it up. Still, it could be a neater looking job - and less weight - if I took out the platform that is there and put in a new one with no cutout... I'm likely to go the lazy route, though, and put something on top of the existing platform. My excuse would be that then I or the next owner could always go back to the original configuration if desired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 A common rule of thumb is a 4x8 foot sheet of 1/4" fir plywood weighs 25 pounds. How much are you going to use? !/4 sheet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajadulce Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 well I would show you what I've done with my own setup, but it is so heavily modified, that it prob wouldn't be of much use. You should however use whatever plywood the cutout requires to match the existing elevations. A front crossmember that spans across the opening would of course be very beneficial to the support, but might not be feasible without some unsightly modifications. A forum member (sorry can't remember his name which upsets me) has suggested in one of his posts that waffle board (lol can't think of the correct name at this moment and I'm a contractor haha) provides more strength than ply's. Of course more plys are better if going the plywood route. 5 ply being relatively cheap and marine or cabinet plywood 7 layers. I have to disagree with laying a 2nd sheet of plywood over the entire bed which seems to be a real fashionable band-aid around rv forums for floor repairs and/or overhead cabs. If this is to be permanent, a good layer of fiberglass across the new plywood would help strengthen the area. I'd suggest a large piece of fiberglass cloth that spans onto the existing bunk to help distribute some of the support. Basically another "ply" that pulls support from the immediate surrounding area. Some ribs on the bottom of plywood would be beneficial as well espc if your rig doesn't setup well for adding a front crossmember piece. ..pics of course when all is said and done! Edit: OSB for waffleboard.. haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajadulce Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 double post! Also, if your overhead is similar to the sunrader (i.e. the bunk is laminated to fiberglass undercab) you can use a circular saw set with great care to the right depth so it only penetrates the existing plywood and not the laminated fiberglass to make for a larger "lip" to accept your plywood (chisel out the piece to separate if from the fiberglass). I remember doing this in my own setup for a good solid 2 inch perimeter lip. Of course the underside got fiberglassed as my particular shell is one piece. There is only a window between the cab and truck not a pass through. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dayoff53 Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 ...use a circular saw set with great care to the right depth so it only penetrates the existing plywood and not the laminated fiberglass to make for a larger "lip" to accept your plywood (chisel out the piece to separate if from the fiberglass). Okay, now I clearly understand the right way to do it! Take out a few inches around the "D" pass-through, then use plywood of the same thickness that is already there, reinforced with fibreglas extending onto the existing material to provide support. If I save the material from the existing "D" mattress cutout to cover the under side, it should end up looking (almost) original. Most of it is probably not beyond my meager abilities (I work in words, not wood and fibreglas!), especially with some help from my handier brother. The trouble is, now that I know how it should be done I'm going to feel like a real schmuck if I cop out by laying a piece of plywood on top of what is already there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajadulce Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 well to be fair, the best looking or "right" way isn't always the best way. And if your setup doesn't allow for that crossmember support piece, your plan to lay a piece of plywood to rest atop the existing cutout would probably be stronger, easier, and less permanent should you need to open the space again. 1/2" would seem plenty sufficient (+ a second piece added to the underside that matches the cutout might be aesthetically pleasing.) espec if it was cut to about a 6" overlap/border. 6" is just a random number but that would seem like a good overlap to dissipate the stress on the edges. Heck after the mattress is back down, the 1/2" "bump" caused by the raised plywood wouldn't even be noticed I'm sure. anywho.. I'd do whatever is the easiest and whatever makes the least amount of mess too! running a circular saw and grinding/scuffing up plywood + chemicals of resin etc isn't all that fun anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 I'm reluctant to make suggestions without being right in front of your rig, BUT I think this is what I'd do. - Cut a piece of plywood sized to sit on the ledge/lip (or whatever it is) that your current filler sits on. Use whatever thickness is required to bring if level with the rest of the bunk area that your new mattress will sit on. - Across the opening that you're going to fill permanently, fasten a piece of 1"x2" or 1"x3" on edge across the full width to tie it all together and to stop your new piece from sagging (when you sit on the edge). I think this would pretty much do it. If need be, you could later add a 1/4" 'skin' over the whole bunk area, but I don't think you'll need it. I think in my case, I wouldn't glue or fiberglass it all together JUST IN CASE someone wants to reverse the process. I might also cover the bunk area with commercial carpet before putting the mattress in. A bit more insulation/sound proofing and a finished look. Since you're buying a new mattress anyway, you might also eyeball whether you could extent the bunk surface rearward a couple of inches to allow a wider bunk. But make sure it doesn't block your doorway! I think the Winnebago bunk is only 48" wide, 6" less than a standard double bed so every little bit will help if sleeping double. It would be nice if you could fit in a standard double, but I doubt it. Now get out there with your tape measure and let us know what you find! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 I tried 1/2" it's not strong enough and I'm around 180# the plywood really is not that heavy either the 3/4" does the trick just fine does not flex at all and is a simple fix I did use quality plywood they have more plys and are finished. I think I cut mine to 65X48 because the sides of mine are not flat and it's easier to get into the MH. 48" seems to be the magic number there is a name for a 77x48 mattress but I can't remember what it is, 3/4 double or some thing strange like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 "Three quarter" is 48 in × 75 in ( in the UK: Prince aka small double or three quarter ) "Super single" is 48 in × 84 in BTW, it is possible to get a 'regular' Double mattress into a Dolphin 900, but only because it's 'bendy'. Not sure how large a piece of thinner, rigid plywood is possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajadulce Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Well 3/4 plywood for such a small area vs. 1/2 inch is going to be nominal in terms of the difference in weight as well as whether it can be felt through the mattress (assuming you go with it applied atop the existing bunk) and sounds like a prudent call. Just try to practice keeping the weight to a minimum in your motorhome as much as you can. Things add up fast if you don't pay attention and get lazy. I swear a lot of the toy houses I've peeked into look like mini rolling freight trains. Its a wonder these things even stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.