PatrickFisherProject

@jdemaris I'm not sure what the issue is with the fuse box. He just suggested I buy a new one. Are there any specific makes and models of relays that you recommend?

@Maineah Here are photos of my fuse box. I do have a solid state isolator. It is a 90 Amp Noco. I took my vehicle to a mechanic to have him clean up the wiring. He informed me that my isolator was cracked, so I'm purchasing a new one on Amazon. He also suggested a new fuse box. Any thoughts as to where I can buy a replacement fuse box? Feel free to email me. patrick@nestoftents.com

I have a 1984 Toyota Sunrader. I need to purchase a replacement isolator and fuse box. The current isolator is a Noco, model IGD-090HP. It has a 90 amp max current. I can find the exact model on Amazon. Is this a good isolator or should I look for an alternative isolator? Additionally, do you have any suggestions as to where I can find a fuse box? Thank you in advance.

I have a 1984 Toyota Sunrader. I have posted in the Electrical forum in the past and everyone was a great help in diagnosing my problems. I come to you all with another problem. The wiring from my main battery is a mess, specifically coming from the positive terminal. I cannot imagine this mess was factory installed, but perhaps it was. I want to clean up the wiring that leads from the battery to the fuse box. I've had issues with power cutting out and I'm almost certain that this wiring nightmare is the source of my problem. Any helpful hints or suggestions before I run new wires? Additionally, what's the thin red wire leading off the positive terminal? It doesn't connect to the fuse box.

I appreciate your insight and help. I was reading about symptoms of a bad ignition switch online. It sounds like some of the symptoms displayed could be a result of a bad ignition switch. Any thoughts?

There are two batteries in the Sunrader. The main battery has the NEG connected to the sheet metal. The POS runs across the vehicle into the isolator along the right side. The auxiliary battery has the NEG connected to the metal along the radiator. The POS runs back to the isolator along the right side. The isolator has a NEG wire that runs down to the alternator. I don't see any NEG wires running from the sheet metal to the engine.

I have a 1984 Toyota Sunrader. About a month ago I started to notice a few oddities occurring. Oddity 1: When I turned my turn signal on my seat belt and brake lights would flash in succession with my turn signal. Oddity 2: When I switch my low beam to high beam my lights would cut out. If I did it a second time my high beam would stay on. This week two more detrimental oddities began occurring. New oddity 1: When I turned my lights on after start my car it would kill all power in my vehicle. New oddity 2: If I slowed down (whether coasting or braking) I would lose all power in my vehicle. The first time this occurred I tried to use a battery bank to jump start my vehicle. It received an error code and wouldn't jump start the battery. I wiggled the terminal cables and was able to start my car back up. I thought my terminals may be loose so I tightened everything. This didn't completely resolve the problem. I took the vehicle to Firestone, the only garage open on Sunday. They tested the batteries and both passed. They also didn't find any issues when diagnosing my electrical system. The only thing they did was tighten my main battery in place. Any thoughts as to what may be causing this problem? My initial thought may be the ground. I noticed the ground from the wire is connected to the truck body, and not the frame. The body is painted and there is 31+ years of grime. I thought that maybe I should clean the area and grind away all traces of paint. Any insight would be appreciated.