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candace

Toyota Advanced Member
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About candace

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1985 Toyota Huntsman
  • Location
    Tallahassee, Florida

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  1. AM1 and AM2 fuses blowing

    Thanks for your replies. One thing I failed to mention in the original post is that when the 30 amp fuse blew the first time, the positive wire from the fuel pump had become detached from the solenoid that powers it. the nut that holds it on had come loose and was missing. So the wire was hot and loose under the hood. It's hard to believe the blown fuse wasn't related to a hot wire floating around under the hood. I found an auto electrical specialist who cleaned up the wiring for me and looked for a possible short. He said the wiring that runs over the top of the emergency brake was being rubbed by the brake pull every time I pulled it which could have been the problem. But he also found a loose wire behind the cd player which could have been touching the metal at the back of the cd player. After he cleaned up the wiring, I've had no more electrical problems. But I'm having a problem with combustion. Lot's of backfiring inside the exhaust. Not really loud backfiring, but like crackling pops. Lots of them one after the other. When it's backfiring, the truck is also jolting. It's especially bad when climbing a hill. But if I'm climbing and drop it into first gear, it goes away. Someone told me it could be timing. Idk. Any advice?
  2. AM1 and AM2 fuses blowing

    While driving, our 1984 Toyota Huntsman died (carbureted, manual trans). Found the 30amp AM2 fuse blew as did the 15 amp cig lighter fuse in the panel under the drivers side dash. Replaced the fuse and fuseable link. Searched for a short under the hood. Cleaned up and organized the wires under the hood. Took it ta mechanic. Computer said alternator was fine, and everything else was ok. Did fine for another 80 miles. Then lost all electronics in the cab and the air conditioning. But the engine didn't stop. I was able to make it to a rest stop. Once I turned the ignition off, it would not restart. Found the AM1 fuse was blown and the cig lighter 15amp was blown again. The diagram of the fuse box shows the AM1 fuse is 40 amps but mine was a 60 amp fuse. Used some wire connector and a piece of wire to make a jumper for the fuse. Truck started. Turned AC on, fuse blew again. I have no idea how to troubleshoot from here. Tried to use the fuse jumper i made again, but it sparks really bad when I try to put it on now. I've looked for a shorted wire everywhere...well, everywhere I can think to look. Any advice?
  3. Thanks for the info! Looks like my coolant is good. -37 degrees according to the tester
  4. It's a bright green. Leads me to think I don't need to bother draining it and replacing. But I'm not sure.
  5. Mold in the ceiling

    Thanks for checking in with me about this. It's definitely mold. The little black things pictured I believe are spores. The actual mold is a very light brown color. It covered the the foam board insulation. It covered the only unpainted wall of the closet. And when I tore out the 2' X 2' section of thin ceiling wood it covered the unpainted up-facing side. The mold is best seen in the first picture and last picture in my original post. It was also on the underside of the of the closet's "floor". It's a thin piece of wood just like the ceiling wood that can be easily removed when everything is out of the closet. I sprayed everything down with concrobium. Tried to remove the mold but it's really stuck on the surfaces. I read that the concrobium kills the mold, renders it harmless and prevents mold from growing. I cleaned off the little black spores easily. I bought a piece of thin hardboard at Home Depot, painted it white, like the rest of the ceiling, and replaced the wood I removed in the closet with it. I removed the trim surrounding the vent above the bed over the cab and found lots of those little black things. So I think the mold is all over the non-visible side of the ceiling wood. I'm sure it's been this way since I bought the motorhome last July because when sweeping and cleaning in the motorhome I've always noticed the little black sediment (spores). I just though it was dirt. It's disconcerting but I have never been ill because of it so I'm not too worried about it.
  6. A few months ago my alternator belt broke while driving. I pulled over with the engine running to investigate the sound. Because the engine was being kept cool by the wind while I was driving, it didnt start to overheat until I pulled over with the engine still running. So I replaced the belt and due to the overheating, I put about a gallon of water in the radiator. I never bothered to flush it and replace with antifreeze because I was in Southern California. I'm about to head into the colder climates of northern Utah and southern Idaho and remembered that maybe I need to drain the current coolant mixture and put in a new 50/50 mix because of that gallon of water I added months back. Can I just drain the radiator and poor in a 50/50 antifreeze? Or do I need to completely flush from the block and run hose water through the radiator first?
  7. Mold in the ceiling

    I have just repaired a leak in my roof. Water intruded from the hole in the roof for the black water tank vent located in the closet. This hole has become unsealed in the past and caused a small portion of the ceiling (maybe 4" X 4") to rot. It was painted over (before I owned it). I decided to tear out the small portion of visibly rotted wood. After removing the section with the saw on my leatherman, I saw what appears to be mold on the insulation foam and the rafter. So, I got a little carried away and ripped out all of the ceiling wood above the closet. The whole thing has mold. I am thinking that it's probably spread to the entire rv. But I'm not sure. Ignorance was bliss. I sprayed the the moldy areas with Concrobium http://www.homedepot.com/p/Concrobium-32-oz-Mold-Control-025326/100654126 And scrubbed with a scotch pad, but I cant get it off. Can you folks tell me how dangerous this mold is? Have you seen this before? It's not like any mold I've ever seen. I started to think maybe it was an adhesive to connect the thin ceiling wood to the insulation and rafter. But that wouldn't explain why it's covering the only unpainted wall in the closet. Must be mold. Also pictured are tiny black "pebbles" mixed in with the mold. They are hard little granules. What are these things? What do you think I should do? I don't want to tear out the entire ceiling. Maybe I have to. But I'm on the road right now. No time for that. I was thinking I should just try my best clean it and then paint a new piece of particle board with anti-mold something or other to replace the wood I removed.
  8. I have been operating with a bad deep cycle battery since I bought the motorhome last August. It really wasn't a big deal. I could charge electronics with two 400 watt Cobra inverters while driving. Lights and water pump always worked fine. Rarely plugged in at rv campgrounds. I installed a 100 watt solar panel and solar controller a month ago. Now, even when not driving I could charge electronics as long as the sun was out. The other day I decided it would be nice to be able to actually store power in my battery, so I bought one at Walmart. The Everstart 24dc. Before installing the new battery, I never had any problems charging my laptop, cellphone and camera battery at the same time. The other day, I was only charging my laptop. When I went to unplug it, the inverter started burning up. I could smell it. I opened it up and the two fuses were burned on their negative sides. The other inverter had just randomly stopped working a couple of days before. No signs of it burning. So I bought a new inverter at Walmart 410 watts made by Schumacher. When I charge only my laptop with the new inverter, the fan runs constantly. What is the deal? I have plenty of power. The solar controller indicates the battery is charged and healthy. Any ideas why my inverters went bad and now this one's fan won't stop running? If I just charge my phone, it the fan doesn't run. It's with the laptop charging that the fan turns on immediately. When the old inverter burned, could it have scorched the wires causing them to work less efficiently?
  9. I removed the thermocouple and burner tube. Burner tube had a lot of rust sediment inside. Cleaned it out with some denatured alcohol. Used a suggestion from another forum to clean the end of the thermocouple that sits above the flame with a pencil eraser. The other end had some yellow stuff inside the threaded piece that connects to the gas button. I cleaned that crap out. Put everything back in and wallah, the refrigerator is resurrected. Now maybe I should start investigating why it doesn't work on electric. Thanks for the help. This forum has been so good to me. Every day a new problem in the last couple weeks. Fuel pump went out in Joshua Tree with no cell reception. Fortunately I had the old electric pump that I took off last summer due to vapor lock. Put it back on to replace the seemingly malfunctioning mechanical pump I've had for just 8 months. Both of my 400 watt inverters crapped out. And the roof leak repair failed and is leaking again after heavy rain in sw Utah last night. SMH. But learning how to fix things is really fun. I've never been much of a mechanically inclined handyman until being forced to fix things myself on this motorhome.
  10. Thanks for the info and links. The button that is supposed to ignite the flame has never worked for me. I have to have my girlfriend press the gas button while I manually light the flame. Or, when she's not with me, as is the case now, I use a curtain rod wedged between a cabinet and the button in order to press the button and then I quickly jump out and light the flame. Gotta move quick so that I don't get a big flame pop! There is a lot of rust around the flue and burner assembly. I'm going to remove the burner tube and thermocouple and clean out any sediment. I read that I can test the thermocouple with a multimeter when the thermocouple is hot.
  11. How do I tighten AC drive belt

    Thank you. I put a bolt in there and was able to tighten the bolt in the slot. But that rusty slotted bar is cracked in the middle on one side. So the belt loosened again. I need a new one of those slotted bars. Is it a tension bar?
  12. My refrigerator has not worked on electricity since I bought the motorhome. Only works with gas. When I light the flame it stays lit only as long as I am pushing the button on the front of the refrigerator for gas. but as soon as I release the button, the flame goes out. I see two pieces of rusted metal that turn orange when the flame is lit. They look rusty and as if they were once connected and are now separated. I think these are the components I need to replace here are some photos.
  13. Where to put solar panel

    I ran the wires from the panel down the fridge vent, along the side of the fridge then drilled two holes for the wires to go down into the cabinet below the fridge. From there I had easy access to run the wires through the lower cabinetry to the battery box. It's working great!
  14. 1984 22r the belt that is connected to the AC compressor is loose. I can't figure out how to tighten it. Can someone help? Thanks
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