danny dan

Just to let any folks who might be wondering about the HG replacement, the campaign is still available for those with affected VIN numbers. I purchased another '90 Itasca with 60k on the clock for the purpose of reselling. I dropped it off at my local Toyota dealer last week and they finished up today. It didn't have any issues and ran just fine, I just figured, why not? I also let them take care of the timing belt & water pump while they were in there (this was obviously not covered by the campaign, but was worth doing while everything was apart). Check your VIN numbers, you never know. My local dealer didn't balk at all, they were happy to do it. After all, they're getting warranty pay from Toyota.

It can be done, but the frames are entirely different as others have mentioned. 2wd frames have welded in transmission cross members, while 4wd frames have bolt in cross members. All the front steering & brake components, diff mount are different, you'll also need to match gear ratios. A solid axle swap would be easier than trying to IFS it. Lots of guys have converted 2wd trucks to 4wd. If you have more time than money go for it. On a side note, there is no way I'd want to off-road (even mildly) a huge glued together RV. They creak and sway enough going down the road as it is. I built a 4wd Chinook using roughly three trucks to make one. I can tell you first hand that I spent at least two months on frame fab work alone, working on my days off or after work. Every cab mount, spring hanger, gas tank mount, wiring, etc had to be changed. Custom drive shaft, custom springs, brake lines, fuel lines and more. I've had it out on a 4wd only beach several times and it is a beast, it just crawls. But I would never attempt taking a 21' rv out on the sands. If budget and time aren't an issue, than you'll have something unique.

10-4. There is a local guy here with a later Mercedes (1999 model) diesel in his 94 T100. Others swap the older Mercedes om617 into Toyotas trucks & 4runners. Anyway diesels are sweet. Have fun.

Nice rig. Not an attempt to steal from your thread, just wanted to share. You have some serious skills man. Here is a pic of my 4wd Chinook I built a few years back. Have logged several thousand miles up and down the East Coast. I'm not brave enough to travel in Mexico however.

I say go for it. Did you consider a Mercedes Inline 6 diesel? Later ones can be budget tuned to around 230hp +/- as well. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the 1.9 TDI had some crank pulley wobble issues among other things. Either way, engine swaps are cool, have fun.

You should be able to just unbolt the intake manifold/carb/airbox as an assembly and pull it out. I believe you have the same setup as my Itasca.

Thanks Ed - I certainly benefited from reading through this thread before I started. Thank you.

Obviously this one will never run again, but here's that example of a timing belt that suffered extreme heat. Unbelievably, the belt is still intact. I'm gonna wager that Totem will argue that a timing belt under the hood of a Toyota camper will never survive heat though...

Lol. You are indeed a hater. You troll on posts. You are the definition of a troll. It seems to me like you haven't turned many wrenches in your time judging from your posts. I happen to own both variants in multiple platforms so I'm very familiar with both of these engines. You, on the other hand own one variant. I assume you've had little to no experience with the 3.4 platform, so I find it hard to understand why you're so biased. I'm not going to preach anymore than I already have. You obviously won't listen to anyone but yourself. You just like to argue and make a point to try and get the last word in. I've quietly read many of your posts for several years. You are, for the most part uninformed on many levels, specifically mechanics. You remind me of all the kids who watch Youtube and read about internet repairs, yet they've no firsthand experience. Internet keyboard warriors who like to talk a lot. What's best for you might not be the best for someone else and vice versa. Let people make their own decisions based on their personal choice. Who are you to judge what engine should be swapped or not? Get off it man. Btw, I've also read many of Maineah's post on this forum as well as another. He is very informed and seems to have a broad knowledge of these trucks.

I could possibly do a timing chain in 4 hours with some help, scraping gaskets, cleaning parts, etc. There is no way in the world I could do one in 30 mins though and I've done a LOT of them...

22r chain rattle is just the beginning. You'll often hear a rattle on startup as the tensioner builds oil pressure. Later as the chain wears, it begins to "slap" the chain guides. Once the guides are broken they find their way down into the oil pain. Shortly thereafter, the chain wears into the timing cover develops a coolant leak. Now you have a nice frothy water/oil mix. If the bearings don't go first, the chain finally breaks. I've seen catastrophic engine damage from chain failure on the 2xr. Once you've reached this point, it is a LOT of work to get the engine back in shape (I've done it many times). A lot of folks just don't know what to listen for when this starts to happen. Others choose to ignore it. I've never seen major damage on a 3.4 other than the crank pulley bolt coming loose on early models. Again, (since you choose to be a cheerleader for timing chains and continue to ignore what I've written), when the belt breaks, nothing bad happens, aside from having to be towed in for repairs. Also, the 3.4 is famous for being awesome... "How many 3.4's with toy home chasis in here again that had their miles applied in them?" Keep on drinking that Haterade boy....

Exactly. Per the book, Toyota wants you to pull the head, drop the pan (PITA on IFS 4x4 models) to do the job correctly. Obviously you can just pull the timing cover without doing the aforementioned stuff, but they almost always leak afterward. Doing a timing belt, in my opinion is an easier and cleaner repair.

I never stated that the 3.4 timing belt service interval was 200k. I simply mentioned that there are countless reports of 3.4 owners who for whatever reason, went a VERY long time with no timing belt service. The last 3.4 timing belt job I did had over 200k with no belt maintenance. Truck serviced at 341k - last timing belt change was at 139k by Toyota. I know the owner. I would never personally wait that long on my own vehicle, but I also wouldn't be scared to drive one that I didn't know history on either.

"but if we want to discuss longevity between the two motors I am also of the belief the 22 series is just as perfectly capable of going through a desert drought of maintenance neglect as chancing over 200k with a belt." As I mentioned a while back, I sell several trucks (all 2xr series) to Honduras, Guatemala, etc every year. These are predominantly 79-95 4x4 trucks. While not the desert, they take a lot of abuse in these countries. I'm not arguing the reliability of the little engine. In fact, I sold one that had 374k on the clock and still ran well. I also mentioned that the 3.4 is non-interference engine a while back as well. It would be rare for 3.4 to suffer piston to valve damage in the event of a timing belt failure. I'm not saying it couldn't happen, but it would be rare.

??? I never said the 22re engine wasn't reliable or that it wouldn't go well into the high mileage range, so I'm not sure what you're getting at there. I simply stated that the 2xr series is more prone to maintenance and noisier by design than a 5vz engine. Honestly, I'd rather do a 3.4 timing belt than a timing chain on a 22re and I've done loads of timing chain jobs.

^ What he said.

No disrespect intended. Just stating the facts.

You're educating me? How? Certainly not grammatically. For real, learn to use some sentence structure man. Damn. Where did I even once mention exhaust?? I'm done here. Seriously, trying to discuss technical topics with you is like trying to teach my dog to quit eating cat poop.

?? It came from an auction. Never said I was a master mechanic at all. Hang on, it's raining. Let me go get you a picture.

While these aren't RVs. You can bet they probably would have kept going.. All examples have over 300k miles on a 3.4 engine. https://www.iaai.com/Vehicle?itemID=27893054&RowNumber=4&loadRecent=True https://www.iaai.com/Vehicle?itemID=27595675&RowNumber=5&loadRecent=True https://www.copart.com/lot/29926777 https://www.iaai.com/Vehicle?itemID=28004067&RowNumber=45&loadRecent=True https://www.iaai.com/Vehicle?itemID=25880938&RowNumber=9&loadRecent=True https://www.iaai.com/Vehicle?itemID=27817221&RowNumber=2&loadRecent=True

22r/20r hybrid is a good swap for seat of the pant's performance feel. 20r head on 22r block. (or bore an early 20r block to it's maximum (they have thicker casing than later 20r blocks) and then its the same thing as a 22r/20r hybrid)..) Common belief is that it raises compression. It actually just flows a whole lot better due to it's pre-emission design. It would not be a bolt on swap for your fuel injected engine due to the difference in intake manifold designs. It's been done, but not often. *CAM* - just one, in your case. I meant loud, as in inherently noisy by design (2xr series). Turn screw/lock nut valve adjustment vs shim over bucket will always be noisier. Valve train noise, injector noise, chain rattle, make it a louder engine. Nothing to do with exhaust, just the nature of that engine.

IF, the belt breaks, no harm no foul. I would never argue that fact that the 22re stuff doesn't go into the higher miles . They are a dime a dozen (which is a good thing as far as reliability goes). I guess I'm confused. Your argument is that a re-engineered 2xr engine performs better and is more reliable than a bone stock 3.4? "Those truck belts just arent seeing strained duty heat like these RVs. " - Yes, because no one ever loaded a Toyota pickup beyond it's carry capacity and drove it around for its entire life. In fact, I've got a completely burned up 3.0 powered truck on my property, burnt to crisp. Pop the hood and literally everything has melted away. But, GASP - the timing belt still look great. Happy to upload a picture for you.

My 3.4 swapped Itasca will cruise at 70 easy. It will do a lot more, but I'm not that brave. If you're sincerely looking at swaps, and liking the idea of a 4 cylinder you can find a 2rz/3rz out of a Tacoma pretty cheap. 2rz is fairly easy and inexpensive to boost with a load of aftermarket support and is reliable in the 300+/- range when boosted. Stock 3rz is good for around 150hp but not good for boost. These engines can easily see high miles without being opened up for more than a valve cover gasket. Likewise, the 5vz is great. So is the 1uz. None of these swaps would be without modification, but a slightly more modern obdII, distributor-less engine that makes substantially more power is always nice. The old 22re is gonna scream going down the road, especially trying to pull a hill. The rear chunk is easy to swap out with a lower gear range. You can add an air flow meter from an 82 Supra/Cressida with a higher flow filter and exhaust and net a few more ponies. This setup does work. I ran a set of the 4 hole Bosch injectors (same as Gm 3800 if I recall) that are marketed on Ebay as "Flame Thrower Injectors) in my '93 Toyota shop truck, but honestly couldn't tell much of a difference. Your transmission will depend on your swap choice. I'm assuming you have an A43d in your current setup, you'd only retain that if you're keeping it stock. I have at least six A43d transmission in the crate from Toyota. I've held onto them since the mid '90s but I imagine I should sell a few one day, lol. I imagine someone out there builds or at least supplies heavy duty torque converters for your trans. I know Trans-Go offers a valve body kit for the a340 trans, not sure about the a43D however. Lastly, I want to again apologize for hijacking the thread. This was not my intention and if an admin would care to move or start a new thread, I'm on board.

Yeah..... wait, what??? No, not really.... I've done timing chains that were worn out on Flathead Mopar engines, SBC, Toyota's, Nissans, tons of motorcycle engines, etc. Most, if not all with under 150k on the clock. Chains wear, chains stretch and chains break, especially on engines with an older design (like the 2xr). Whether its on your engine, motorcycle, cheese grater, whatever. It is a highly wearable item. Very few engines in this world are million mile engines. An example of a MUCH longer lasting chain drive engine would be the newer 1nz, 2rz, 3rz engines, these guys have a better design and don't need the timing chain service the the 2xr engines do. You could easily see 300-400k on a very well maintained specimen, but never a million miles. Maybe on a very well maintained, babied, mid sized diesel engine, but even then, a million miles is pushing it. The 3.4 didn't have the issues the 3.0 did. The 3.0 is an entirely different engine. The 3.0 was a SOHC that suffered from bad heat soak on #5 & #6 cylinders due to restrictive exhaust on the back collector and a weak bottom end. The 3.4 is an entirely different engine, DOHC, strong bottom end, modern fuel injection, etc. That being said, head gaskets can pop on anything. 2xr series for sure, just a little too much heat, first the head gasket goes then the head warps. Seen it, over and over and over and over. As much as I really do love these little engines, I feel as if they have garnered a cult-like following. I have certainly seen them with 300-400k on the clock, but not without having gone through several sets of timing chain/tensioners and head gaskets first. Chain gets, loose, plastic guide breaks, timing chain wears hole in cover, water goes in oil, etc. They're prone to leak and they're noisy. They are easy to work on, parts are dirt cheap and they are reliable for sure. I don't want to come off as if I'm knocking the 2xr at all. But even when addressed with a steel backed guide, the chain eventually will get loose and break if not replaced. Hence the need for more preventative maintenance. The more these little engine scream, the more the chain stretches. Race and reliability don't exactly go hand in hand. Not saying your particular engine won't be reliable for years to come and I don't doubt your engine builder's skills either, I just can't see spending all that money for 20 more hp. I'd have kept the stocker in there. But hey, as long as you're happy that's what counts. Finally, I've lurked on this site for at least 7-8 years, this is one of the few times I've been inclined to type... Got to go. Feeling the need to research the TRUTH in automotive engineering...

It wasn't too bad, it probably isn't for the faint of heart though, especially the wiring. It works great. OBDII diagnostics, better fuel injection system, etc. I used the trans that was already in the Itasca, only because it had less mileage, no other reason. Building the one that came out of my donor as a spare. You would need to swap the trans and move engine mount location on yours. among other things... Apologies, didn't mean to hijack this thread, carry on.