lostinbama2x

Thanks moose, i'll give them a call. Bama.

Hello all, While working on replacing the leaf spring bushings on my 86' winnebago, ive discovered that the lug nuts on the left side rear duals are left handed threads. This discovery came at the cost of one broken stud and boogered up threads on the rest of the nuts. I have managed to remove the broken stud. These studs do not install from the inside of the brake drum as most do. they pass through the front of what looks like an adapter mounted to the face of the drum. The stud has threads on the backside so that once its inserted into the hole, a nut and washer secure it to the adapter. I believe this is a replacement axle fitted after the recall on the early inferior axles. Does anyone know of a parts supplier that might carry left handed nuts and studs for these axles. The guys at NAPA are still scratching thier heads. Searching this forum i found where one person got the nuts from Toyota for $10 a piece (ouch). Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Bama.

Hey pager, See got right to the job. Looks good. Have you taken it for a test run yet? Ive started work on mine. Did your bushing kit come with 8 small and 4 larger bushings? Mine did. I dont think that its correct, because the larger bushings dont fit anywhere. The kit also came with 2 sleeves that dont seem to fit anywhere. The heavy shackles i got from Downey fit well and i think should really help with stability. Will try to post pics when im done. Im headed to the parts store now to see if i can get 4 of the smaller bushings. Later,Bama.

Hello all, Starting on leaf spring bushing replacement today. I want to pull the rear wheels to check brakes and access springs easier. Lugs are on super tight. I took it to a local tire shop. They could not get driver side lugs to move. One broke off. After examining broke lug, it seems it is reverse threads. The passenger side is normal thread. Is this common on these? Thanks, Bama.

Hey pager, Man, i dig your enthusiasum. You dont hesitate to tackle a job. My stuff came from Downey today. I will try to get a start on it tommorow. Working the dreaded midnights slows things a bit. Im off this weekend and weather permitting i can hopefully get this knocked out. Still need to decide on shocks. I will try to post pics of the Downey parts and the install process. Later, Bama.

Bushings are on the way from Downey. I also ordered the 1.5" shackles. I got to thinking after the order that if i use the longer shackles that i will need longer shocks. I see that someone said they used Rancho 5000's. I believe that Ranchos have longer travel, from 0" to 2" of lift. Has anyone else used longer shackles to gain rear clearance? I have also looked at some RV helper springs that are rated 2000lbs and am considering those. I am not trying to increase payload as much as i want to level rig and stiffen the ride. Any thoughts are appreciated. thanks

Checked out downey. Looks good. Im gonna go ahead and order from them. I have a question about where to place my jack stands when begining this job. Forward of the leaf spring seems like it would be to much. Im using large 5 ton stands. Rear of the spring there is only a short section of stock frame before a frame extension added by the coach builder, and this extension doesnt look like it could support the weight. Anyone whose done any rear axle work, i would appreciate your input. Thanks, bama.

Hey pager, Looking at your bushings id say they need replacing. Installing poly bushings should'nt be a big hassel because they come in 2 pieces. Removing the old ones could be a pain , unless their really chewed up ,because the stock rubber is pressed into the spring eye hole. Thats why installing factory style rubber is tough cause its gotta be pressed in. The poly ones just slip in on either side of the eye. The poly bushings also come with a bolt that allows you to grease the bushings. Im talking like ive done this. I havent. Ive got an old IH scout that i bought new poly bushings and shackles for and have looked at how to do it but havent got around to it. Its on my ever growing to do list. If my take on this installation process is way off, please someone, correct my thinking,

Hello all, Its been a few months since ive posted, or even worked on my rig for that matter. But the the holidays have passed and we are coming into some good shade tree mechanic weather, so its time to focus and get back on track. To bring everyone up to speed on my rig, its an 86' winnebago itasca, 22re, 4spd auto. Since i bought it last summer most of the work ive done has been concentrated on the motor, troubleshooting efi, exaust leaks, etc. Its not running tip top, and there are a few more things that id like to address under the hood, but i do feel its more reliable than when i bought it and i would feel safe taking it out a little ways. With all that said ill move on to the topic at hand, leaf spring bushings. My leaf spring bushing are shot. The rubber is hanging out of the leaf spring eyes which leaves the bolt to carry alot of stress. I would not feel comfortable loading people or cargo in the RV as the added weight might cause the bolt to break. What i want to do to correct this is install poly bushing. I will also install new shocks at the same time and add leaf assists as i see PAGER has done on his rig. Also possibly a beefer shackle. I found a set of shackles online that are 1.5" lift with a heavy center support. All of this jabbering leads up to my real question. How do i order the correct bushings? That is to say, are the leaf springs on these motorhomes stock toyota? All of the listings for poly bushings ive found online seem to cover all of the pickup models ,2wd, 4wd, DX, etc, etc. Is there anyway to know for sure?, like spring eye diameter or something. I look forward to hearing from anyone who knows or has some good ideas. Thanks in advance.

Hello all. I just wanted to get some ideas on what gauges would be the best to add.I know im going to add a transmission temp gauge. I like the 3 gauge pillar set up i've read about on here, so i need some suggestion to fill the other 2 holes. Im running an 86' 22re with 4spd auto. Look forward to hearing ideas. Thanks.

Thanks for the replys. Have'nt had an oppurtunity to work on camper last couple of days. I did pull and clean the EGR before starting this post. It still sticks. Might pull it again and try the Berrymans though. I need to replace the valve cover gasket. Could a bad valve cover gasket cause a vacum leak? Thanks.Bama.

Hello all. I'd like to get some ideas on where to start trouble shooting this problem. I have been learning and tuning my 86' 22re , 4spd auto, since i got it a few months back. I have made progress and feel the engine is starting to function more as it should. The problem that im facing now is that when i shift from park into reverse or drive the engine will stall out if i dont hold the brake and give it gas. It would do this when i first got the rig, but not as often because someone had the throttle stop screw adjsted and it was idling high. This idle increase may have been done to compensate for this problem or one of the other problems ive been working on. The engine is idling closer to where it should now so the stall problem is constant. I am going to replace the EGR because it wont seat without a little tapping. I dont know if EGR replacment will help this problem or is even related but it is needed and is where i ended trouble shooting fuel system. From what little i've read these transmissions dont have any vacum relation to the motor ,so i dont think any undetected vacum leaks could cause this problem. If any of you good folks have run into something similar help me out. Thanks in advance. Bama.

Doug. Hate to hear about your manifold woes. I think that any working mechanic "willing" to jump right on an exhaust manifold job for a vehicle thats pushing 20 years old is either clueless or hungry. Your mechanic may be neither. I think there may be a few differences in your manifold job compared to the manifold replacements i've read about here. First off, your talking about a V6. you've got 2 exhaust manifolds, left and right. Us four bangers just got one manifold. Next is just a guess, but, if the engine bay on your 91' is near the size of my 86', i bet its a pretty tight fit reaching either manifold.The thought of slipped wrenches while in a contorted skin removing position is enough to make most mechanics think twice. One likeness between the 2 is the fact that your manifold and the 4cly manifold both use threaded studs inserted into the head and the manifold is held on with nuts. The aggrivation comes in during removal. After years of heating, cooling,and moisture, the nuts form a bond with the studs. When reverse torque is applied the result can be a broken stud. When that stud breaks it opens up a whole new can of worms. That stud has to be removed and replaced in order for your manifold seal properly. This removal and installation of studs can send some mechanics, shad tree or professional, into panic attacks. Pre soaking the nuts in some sort of "liquid wrench" is probably the best place to start. Find a mechanic that will tell you all this up front and is still willing to do the work and you may have your man.Dont be surprised if the price is a little steep though. This problem is not just specific to Toyota its true for lots of vehicles. Hope all this helps. Bama.

I like the idea of the larger filter. What different oil weights are some of you guys using? And, to stay on topic here, 3 1/2 half quarts does sound off. I have'nt had my camper long, but am ready to do first oil change. My guess would have been 4+quarts .

I forgot to ask this earlier.When i put camper into gear and the motor dies, is this directly related to the low rough idle problem or will i have to look somewhere else once EFI is functioning properly? I've read that some of these transmissions dont have any tie to engine vacum. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.