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My Toyota Motorhome


Found 10 results

  1. Hi I just purchased a 1991 Toyota Winnebago Warrior with 50K miles. Had it inspected and mechanic said all was good. Took it on my first camp trip and it overheated? This is what I have done so far and it is still overheating. Radiator Caps twice, New Radiator, Expert Vacuum out the coolant and refill under pressure to remove air bubbles. Three Thermostats ( finally boil tested at last change and they were all good). I have a 180% thermostat installed. Installed electric Radiator Fan, 3000 RPM works great. Combustible gas tested the coolant- Passed no gas. Compression tested cylinders, 170 on 5, 150 on one. Leak down test at 100 PSI and no leaks. Weighed at end of trip and it weighed 6,640 Gross Weight . 640 over. It overheats worse going up hill, but will overheat all the time. Not the gauge because it is boiling hot. Not blocked because the guy who changed the radiator said that putting the coolant in under pressure would have reviled a blockage. He checked all the "new" hoses and said they were good. Not collapsing. We are looking at installing a new water pump and timing belt, even though the water pump is not leaking and appears to move the coolant. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.
  2. Hey guys. So I've got a 89 dolphin with 4cyl 22re that's running a little hot. I've done full radiator swap (new 3 row radiator, new thermostat, new water pump, new hoses), and recently had to replace the core because of a rod knock. All said and done it's still running a little hot. Gauge reaches 3/4 temp when on the highway doin over 55. Im pretty baffled now, is this thing doomed? Appreciate any advice.
  3. I have the 3.0 v6 in my sea breeze, against all better judgement with what I have heard about these I still got it... When I bought it it apparently didn't have a thermostat in it and I drove it home, 2.5 hours at 55-65. Once I pulled off the highway it started overheating and got it home with coolant boiling out. I had a shop install a new thermostat, flushed the system, tested it under pressure, and supposedly drove it on the highway. Said it was fixed... Drove it for the first time yesterday since it was "fixed" back in may and it over heated after 10 minutes at 25-50 max mostly going 35mhp. Same deal it had the needle in the red, pulled over and coolant boiling out. Had the heat on and it was just cold air. I let it sit for about an hour and drove it home, the needle would jump up and down and the heat would also come and go. I drove it like a granny barely accelerating and going real easy and still was bubbling coolant when I got home. Is it just a bad thermostat? Or am I looking at new water pump? God forbid head gasket! It has perfect compression so hoping and praying that's not the case.
  4. Hi all, so I have a V6 3.0 '90 Winnebago Warrior, and it looks like many of the overheating threads on this forum are dealing with the same rig, I wonder if that's just a coincidence? Anyways, I live in Phoenix, where cooling systems are tested to the max in the summertime. My system runs fine in the heat putting around town without the AC on, it's only when I reach 55 - 60 on the highway, or turn on the AC, that my rig starts sitting right on the redline. This is preventing me from leaving the valley of fire during the summer with my rig, so any help is greatly appreciated to get me out of here during the weekend. So far I've done: 1. New electric fan 2. New radiator (cheap aluminum and plastic from Autozone, single core I think) 3. New radiator hoses 4. Thermostat I read through Sherrie's post with the same issue, but I didn't glean exactly what her problem ended up being, only that she added water wetter and it seemed to solve her problem. Is the cheap aluminum and plastic radiator just insufficient for this climate and our unique rigs? Is this the proper radiator for our application?: https://www.amazon.com/CSF-Toyota-4Runner-Pickup-Radiator/dp/B000CFRKS8/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467592974&vehicle=1990-76-230-234-59--8--3992--9--2282--5-0&sr=1-11&ymm=1990%3Atoyota%3Apickup&keywords=radiator I was also thinking it may be a weak or faulty water pump, but that's an expensive endeavor to just throw at it without knowing if it's the real problem. Thanks!
  5. Hello Friends, I am looking for some advice on an engine issue. My temperature gauge starts creeping toward the red line after a couple hours highway driving, and it is very concerning as we are 3000 miles into our trip. It cools down at lower speeds and when at idle. I have a new timing belt, new radiator, new water pump, all new belts and hoses, new coolant, all new fluids,the head gasket was replaced in 1998, but I have no indication that anything is wrong there. I have stopped at multiple mechanics but since this happens after driving for a long period it never gets hot for them. My thoughts were that possibly we're overloaded, (I have not weighed us yet), the fan is not pulling enough fresh air, the new coolant was not flushed properly, or my expectations of the Warrior are unrealistic as we have been driving from NC to Key West to southern Texas in May. We have a 6 cylinder engine, 1992 warrior, 46,000 miles. Any insight would be very much appreciated. We are headed to Austin TX next if you know of any good mechanics. Thanks!!!
  6. After having my Head Gaskets replaced at a Toyota Dealership my Winnie was returned to me with Red Coolant in the Radiator. When it was still overheating I took it to a Mechanic to have a larger Radiator installed, The mechanic came out and asked if it okay with me if they use Green Coolant, I said sure makes no difference to me. After having the new radiator installed I took it for a test drive and it overheated worse than before the newer bigger radiator? I decided to drain the existing "Green Coolant" to try a product called "Water Wetter" by Red Line. In the process of draining the coolant I discovered that there was still "Red Coolant" in the system. Not only did the red and green not mix, they stayed separate. I got green coolant from the radiator and red coolant from the block. Now I wonder if this issue with the red and green coolant being used together may have been why I continued to overheat, or if the new Distilled Water and "Water Wetter" is really why I am now not overheating? Does anyone have experience that may lead to a conclusion?
  7. We were operating too close to the temp red line on long hills. Stopped at a carwash and back flushed the radiator, air conditioning radiator and transmission coolor... and estimate a 10% to 15% change for the better. Just thought it might be helpful to pass that along.
  8. I've scanned this forum tirelessly for any info that would point towards my issue, but am now appealing directly for some advice and insight. Bought a '92 Winnebago Warrior in May of 2011 - 62,000 miles on it; checked the VIN on the Toyota Safety Recall and Service Information website and found no open recalls. In 20,000 miles of driving last year, we raced across California deserts in high heat, up Pennsylvania mountains and while the temperature gauge indeed climbed all the way up to just shy of red, nothing went horribly wrong, despite the fact that the floorboards get almost unbearably hot. I did have to replace the alternator and roof air (which were both on their last legs at purchase.) In about 10,000 miles of driving since spring of this year, the radiator finally blew in Breezewood, PA and I found a new one online, had it installed and test drove it unloaded on a hot day on some grades. Of course, the needle pegged. Garage said it might be the thermostat and gasket, which was replaced the following day. Driving over the big grades on the Pennsylvania Turnpike brought the gauge back up to near-red, but fell back down to about 3/4 once over the hill and I turned the a/c off. It was a blazing hot day and the following day got even hotter in Gettysburg - 101° F - but on the level roads, the gauge kept around 3/4 with the a/c on. Thinking maybe I'd gotten too assured with my load limit, I emptied the coach upon returning home to Florida and opened her up to about 65 on the interstate with the a/c on; within ten minutes, she was red-lining. I know these Toys are overloaded and that the 3VZ-E engines are prone to blown head gaskets, but it would appear I've been seeing that high temperature on the gauge for over a year now under extreme heat and, besides the 20-year old radiator finally giving up the ghost, no other issues are presenting themselves. It just seems to be reading even hotter than last year and I'm wondering if they put the correct thermostat in. If this vehicle was overheating like the gauge indicates, shouldn't I be seeing clouds of white smoke coming out of the tailpipe? The mechanics who installed the radiator said they did have some trouble getting air into the engine (something about it being "locked"), but finally worked that out and told me that compression was good, no leaks and I haven't lost any fluid since. I hope these guys would've told me if something else seemed amiss. What might the issue be here? Thanks for any and all help! Happy Travels, Bing
  9. I just purchased a 1991 Toyota Dolphin motor home. I was pleased with the over-all condition of it initially, however, I immediately had issues with overheating while running the AC. I was driving it through the small mountains of Tennessee and it was impossible to run with the air-conditioner on at all. Even when the evening offered much cooler temps,, it still overheated. I've had a new radiator, thermostat(twice) and clutch fan put in it. It still overheated within one hour on the road. Driving it across Arkansas on I-40 made it overheat as well. It seems to me that it should at least be able to run without overheating during reasonable outside temperatures and on normal hilly roads? Am I just doomed to never run the AC? Thanks for any help!!!
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