lexxxel

Plus, look at the tires in the tire pics, they're all cracked with huge weathering issues. Crappy even without knowing the age! And what is that, black spray paint over the inner portion of the rims and the axle? What's that hiding? I always question what people are hiding with fresh spray paint... many older vehicles people will take black spray paint to the underside just to hide the rust. Fools some people I guess. If you went to see the vehicle in person and didn't know those tires were bad, you are missing other things for sure about the vehicle itself, and the camper. You need to get a mechanic or inspection company to go see any vehicle you are interested in buying, because you don't know enough yourself to understand what you're getting into. If you can't fix things yourself it is going to be cheaper to buy a new rv! Places charge $125-$150 AN HOUR just to do cosmetic stuff (which is a giant rip off as it's not skilled labor, and mostly it's high school kids doing the work, but that's what you pay). More for skilled work. An older camper can be a money pit. And an old truck can cost $$$ in maintenance and repair. Make sure you know what you're getting. Something that has been meticulously maintained is well worth the added up front cost (which will be a lot more than $5000) unless you can do all the necessary work yourself.

Thanks Linda for the advice! And for providing the video link... I should have said that I watched that video after searching for info on this site, but in the video 2 people are doing it and it's super fast on the reinstall and trim install. The problem with my bulge is that it's in the outer corner at the bottom, where it goes around the side to the front, so that won't lay flat when it's off the camper. Maybe I can rig up something curved to lay it on. It may just be sticking out a bit because of a crappy install job, won't know I guess until I pull it out and look if it fits in the opening properly. I will use aluminum tape I think over the leaky areas while I wait to pick up the new trim lock seal. I'll order it on Amazon, but because I'm in canada I have to go pick it up in Michigan. So won't be able to get to the reseal right away. If only amazon canada wasn't 1000 times more expensive for the exact same products (most of which though aren't even available). I have an articulating ladder that splits apart in 2 pieces that I will put 2x12's across to stand on. That should work ok. Will post pics, but will be a while before I get to it. Maybe the window bulged out from driving? Does that happen? I swear I've heard the windows on the cabover make "bang" noises from time to time at highway speed. Like they're blowing out almost, but they still look intact when I stop

To continue my window issues with my sunrader, I thought I'd split into 2 topics as they are different issues. My sliders are extremely sticky and hard to open (or impossible to open). I've sprayed the tracks numerous times with dry lube for RV windows, but aside from really stinking up the camper, it works for about a day then goes back to sticky and almost non operable. My pass side window slides open about 1/3 of what it should, and is super sticky even then. My driver's side window is so sticky the metal pull separated right off and now it won't open at all. How do you get that metal trim/pull back on? I want to take out the windows to redo the butyl seals, so starting with drivers I will do this. But I want the slides to work well, and am wondering about advice on how to make them slide properly. I can do it while they're out of the RV. Some people have suggested wax but there is a brush like track for the window, and I'm not sure how I would apply the wax to this. Try to stick it down on the base of the track below the brush? It there a way to clean out these tracks properly? Has anyone replaced these windows? I much prefer the old crank out style, plus they are great open in the rain. Thanks all!

So I've been looking at old posts for the wraparound cabover window issues, and my driver's side wrap window is leaking in 2 places. The rubber seal was replaced by the original owner at some point, because she told me when I bought the unit last year. But it's leaking, and it looks like whoever did it (she said it was done by a shop) did a really crappy job. There is a 1/4" gap where the seal ends meet, so of course rain gets in there. Plus, there is about a foot along the front lower window where the seal looks chewed up, like during installation they used some tool that ripped it up (on the inside), and it is leaking there too. How easy is it for one person to replace the seal in the window? As in, a do-it-by-yourself project, as I won't have any help available. Otherwise, what about using clear sealant/caulking around the seal where it's leaking? Is this something that people do as a temp fix? Plus, it looks like maybe the window either isn't fit in the opening properly, or it doesn't fit properly, because I think there is a bulge at the lower corner where it wraps around the corner, as in, bulging out slightly at that bottom wrap around area. That's why I'm hesitant to redo the seal, and am wanting to just use some caulking on the leaky parts. Is the bulge issue difficult to fix? I know where to get the correct locking trim/seal, and will attempt it if people think I can do it myself, and also that caulking isn't going to stop the leaks. The bulge area is not leaking, it's 2 other spots that are leaking. Thanks for all advice!

There are 3 different toyota sunraders on ebay right now, one is cheap, one is crazy expensive and one is like new, which is crazy (and priced reasonably for what it is). 16,000 miles. Pretty cool. These have nothing to do with me, I just sometimes search out vintage rv stuff on ebay and came across them in search results. 3 on ebay at one time I haven't seen before. If i was looking for my dream sunrader I'd be into the mint one. And the low price one seems like a good unit for someone wanting a bit of a project. I still have my Sunrader truck camper unit and am loving it! Except not the window issues, but will post about that separately.

thanks linda. That's great, I looked some up online and seems to be easy to get. That may also help improve my leaks. The old trim definitely doesnt form a seal anymore in any way. All the suggestions have been great. Now I wish I had signed up earlier bc I likely would have taken out the vent to reseal instead of just putting sealant on the roof around the perimeter. But now the sealant is on it'll be a couple years bf it's brittle enough to scrape off easily! Hopefully it won't leak again there for a while. Seems to have fixed it for now anyway. Just left with a stain on the interior "carpet like" roof covering. Any ideas about how to get that stain off? Maybe just carpet cleaner spot spray? Don't want to weaken the foam under the covering though. It looks like tweed polyester over foam.

thanks for all the replies. Yes, I will likely reseal the side windows as it's easy. One of the window pulls has come off (the inside pull to move the window), and I need to figure out how to get that back sealed on before taking out the windows. I was thinking epoxy but it seems to have some kind of rubber grab seal thing inside that the glass goes into. Not sure how. Maybe it will become obvious when the window is apart. Anyway, that caulk suggestion looks promising (and hilarious it's called the same as my screen name!). I feel like taking out the screws and leaving the rivets, but will see when I have time to actually do it. Where can I get new plastic moulding strip? Is it some standard thing? Mine is obviously original and don't think does anything except look pretty (if moss is looking pretty!) I have taped over the worst leaky area with aluminum duct tape for now, and that seems to have fixed the leak. So it must be the trim section there that's causing it.

Thanks John. I'd have to caulk that gully but also along the top edge of the aluminum trim so rain can't seep in behind it. Has a lot of not so old caulking there now that I will have to remove. I was thinking of using ProFlex RV, but would love to hear your suggestions.

Actually those rivets could also be a source of leaks, if they are also too long, or penetrating the shell on the inside. And filling just the aluminum gully won't work because rain can still seep in from the top. It has old caulking on the top of the aluminum trim, so someone was trying to address this leak in the past. Perhaps something that could wrap over the whole thing would work. Kinda stupid they finished these so carelessly. Why make a nice fiberglass shell and then stick screw holes in it??

Thanks for the info Linda. I thought the screws held the halves together, but if they're glassed together that's way better. Then the trim has been screwed on to hide the seam, I get it. Thing is, mine appears to have rivets beside every screw. So looks to actually be riveted to the shell too. I will try to take out some screws and see if it comes free at all. I'm attaching some pics of what it looks like. I think if i take out all the screws and fill the holes with caulking, then caulk the whole trim "gully", I should fix any leaking, but it will be a super huge pain to get the trim off if I ever want to. Would be better to take it all off and glass over any holes, but I'm not sure I'm up for that. Maybe I will just take out all the screws, fill the holes with caulking, and put the plastic runner strip back in the aluminum trim.

Hi everyone, new to this forum, recently purchased a Sunrader stand alone truck camper, for full size pickups (on a 91 ford f250, and it's a tight fit at the rear). I see lots of Sunrader info here, so thought this was a good place to belong. The camper is very cool and all original, and in pretty good shape. I like how it's sleek and doesnt hang over the box rails. But very difficult to get it on the truck! It was made by GlasTech in Winnipeg Manitoba, Canada. Original owner said it's a 1982. I camped in it for about 3 weeks on a road trip this summer and everything went well until it started raining heavily. Then I noticed leaking at the sides, just in front of the side window (on driver's side) and below window on other side. From where it gets wet inside I can tell it's coming from the seam. I took off some of the black plastic trim over that seam and see mostly rivets and some screws. I assume from reading other posts here that some of those screws are too deep and allowing water into the camper. SO what to do. If those screws hold the 2 clam shells together I don't want to take them out. Should I just take them out and replace with shorter ones? Don't want to make the unit come apart while driving! It's already old. I also thought about caulking the entire gully under that black plastic strip and leaving the strip out. Just filling up the metal seam with caulk. Any ideas? What would you do? The water is wrecking the inside, and I'd hate to see it ruined. Also have a leak in the back "door", the whole back end flips up, and somewhere on top it's leaking, evident when you pull the back up and see the old water damage on the wood cabinets. Not too bad right now but want to fix it. On top there's a piano hinge with what may be old vinyl type material cover. Hard to tell as the material is pretty old and worn. I put duct tape over it for a temp fix, but wonder what I might do to make it better. Hasn't rained since I put on the tape so no idea if that helped. Also caulked around the roof vent on top as some was coming in there, but the self leveling sealant was so toxic I ended up making a huge mess and didn't get some of the screw heads completely covered. I just felt dizzy and couldn't aim the gun any more! I maybe should have taken the vent out and resealed properly, but hoping the sealant around the perimeter does the trick. Any ideas for the seam leak would be great.