neubie

virginia, they said.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-59123-Propane-Brass-Port/dp/B0014JG7RQ basically the same thing. but i thought i had all the hoses already So bought only the tee and not the kit that comes with hoses. so missing an adapter for one of the ports. tank started out looking pretty dirty so I want to test pieces of the system one by one. tank being the last and not a make or break part with the tee.

Well, nothing should be easy. Now I have a 1 3/4 acme port into a tank in unknown condition. A 1/4 inverted flare and a 1 inch throw away thread. I thought I had every possible adapter and hose corralled but as it turns out these are all the ones I dont have. Sigh.

will do, the first shot is the sort of thing WME linked above, straight, 135 degress, whatever in one lot. Lets see.

typically wires run to the truck dash radio. you can check under the carpet near the driver/passanger seats to see if they are still there. Typically, the driver side, but it varies. You should also be able to find them under the cabinet floors from inside without cutting anything.

1000AH is a good way to exceed gross weight.

It seems Anyone know how often the fins get to these temps. 130f is a bit high, not sure my conditions tested this.

Theoretically a new fridge, never seen food yet. I would hate to find out it arrived with "issues". Still, an open question for a coming day. We will find out sooner or later.

It took 8 hours to cool the empty fridge. The RM2451 now (or may be always did) comes with a 12V fan that seeks to improve air flow. I havent seen mine operating though. Why that fan wouldnt turn on didnt make sense to me. Need to test LP and water/sewer in parallel with finishing up. The LP main line had collected quite a bit of crud, it wasnt hard to cleanup on both ends but the middle passes over the rear axle and is well beyond my reach. For now I assume the copper pipe isnt going to be a failure risk, at least compared to my new flarings. The generator space is cleaned up with the battery bank and empty dry storage. There is still the old gas line for the generator there. I toy with the idea of sticking in a second tank there some day, in distant future. Need to figure out oil/fluids/belts in parallel. The first oil change will be at toyota, later on, hopefully, as convenient. Getting closer to the end. Still a long list of little things, but with water/sewage/LP tested and service done it will be usable for day trips at least.

I guess folks who do go the road of dorm fridges also rely on improved efficiency of a modern compressor system and probably stick a small invertor close to the battery bank. Not ideal, but far less total cost compared to marine DC. I am still skeptical of the impressive numbers people are quoting for marine/dc models but if insulation has improved so much that cold losses are minimal then maybe its possible to use such small AH. My home fridge turns on more than a few times a day and it doesnt get any real open/close use. But then again we arent taking house fridge volumes here either. I am hoping to finally get the entire LP system going this week -- LP, water, drainage remain to be tested in my adventure. Bought a 4 port adapter to avoid having to worry about tank condition/filling issues. Its worth it for testing for leaks/normal operation even if it wont get any real use in normal circumstances.

Its a useful data point, but is missing the fridge size and daily use/content estimation. 200w probably give you 50AH a day from solar. Presume also the isolator is still in the mix and the alternator is contributing something to the mix when truck is driven. But even the best numbers and assumptions seem to suggest 3 bad weather/overcast/rainy days in a row will consume all reasonably available juice in the system. Its better than 1 day you get with 100+ watt that I have, but nowhere near the endurance of an LP fridge. Have you ever tried to look up amperage when its actively cooling by sticking a clamp meter somewhere?

Not worthless. If you part out things like windows, door, seats etc after a bit on ebay you should get your money back with a bit of patience. The rest depends on condition of the interior. Minicruisers are still common, if you want someone to claim parts now then reach out also on the facebook toyota motorhome groups and the like, someone may well take the whole shell, its happened before.

the new stems are metal and rigid. At least on one rear they didnt align the interior tire stem to be accessible with the outer. Have compressor(s) but have always wondered if they can inflate anything to 60psi given that they seem to want a 10 minute break after doing a 30psi single tire on a compact. With seemingly rigid metal stems I am more comfortable with extenders on all the time. Will try some out.

6 hand holes. Now to actually go check the stem and extender situation as it exists now. New tires were inflated before mounting but come with free inflation (yes thats a thing in places where people dont know how to inflate). I figure they wouldnt have left them so bad they cant get to them easy. Seems to me I missed organising at least the stem thing in my tire replacement, perhaps more.

The DC fridge is interesting because of the reduction in propane flame by one too. But I have a hard time believing 12-16AH is enough for a day. They do all seem to draw 4-5AH when cooling. The only verified figure I have is 1.5A on120v ac for a rm2451 while cooling. Thats 15AH when cooling. Easily takes 8 hours on mine from room temperature. If you get to room temperature for some reason then at no lower than 50% precaution you need 240AH storage to cool down again. Thats not happening with an invertor. People seem to recommend cooling when plugged into shore before unpluggining. And thats a current dometic model. The fridge situation is less than ideal either way. Perhaps some real world use will change my opinions.

Hmm. I guess got to figure out how to get some then. I might use Linda's tire shop recommendation unless I was mistaken and already have metal stems. I have only had bad luck with tpms stem caps and stem covers so far, may be this time will be different.

if the plywood is good then my nonsense certainly doesnt apply. that becomes relevant only when plywood has gotten damaged and must also be cut/replaced. there is foam insulation under the plywood. Be careful of the tacking time on the super 77.

Someone correct me but the best I could figure one should expect an AH draw from "efficient" dc fridge of at least 3-4AH. May be higher at peak draw. Thats 100AH daily easy. Which translates to 200AH battery bank and 300W solar. Still no real protection against clouds. Thats more than two panels. There isnt really room for more than 12 panels on the roof of anything but the large americana. Also, if you do create the solar capacity, then your small dorm fridge ends up competing on price and wins on convenience. Their peak ac draw is 1-2AH. Invertors for this low wattage are under 50 bucks. Fridge is may be 100 and has a compressor, can stay on regardless of leveling. LP wins on endurance. Loses on price, convenience, maintenance, risk, and everything else. What are these efficient fridges and how are they popular?

I feel more paranoid about the stem extender coming loose and getting itself into a troubling spot or worse. I have extenders like this, but forgot to ask for metal stems with the new tires. How long did you go without extenders or were they one of the first things on the todo list?

I hear good things about them. I also read about them coming loose and causing flats. Tires appear to have flexible stems right now. No extensions. What do folks use for extensions? Is it adequate to just carry one extender for when it might be needed or is it better to have some installed permanently?

https://www.ebay.com/usr/rvexit appears to be a reasonable source, especially if you catch one of the monthly ebay 10-15% off coupon. Product may ship from manufacturer.

To me this looks like some generation of suburban. This is probably a newer model in same/ different size https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-5067A-Pilot-Ignition-Heater/dp/B00MJUOD20 the manual for this type should have maintenance instructions that might still apply. Sadly the leak is more likely from rust at valve/tank joint than a leaky valve insert. Couldnt hurt to empty the heater and inspect carefully before repairing. At least it looks like an electric ignition type and not a manual pilot model.

The pictures are of your hot water heater. It looks a bit uncared for, but these are still made -- google suburban or atwood water heaters, match the model and locate parts for repair. You dont actually get to the inside of the water heater without a borescope but the electrodes and the valves can be replaced. The commonly used valve is at the top, not bottom. Chances are your kitchen sink is over the heater on the other side. There are switches for both the water heater if it has an electric ignition and for the water pump. The water pumps are on demand pumps, they have a built in pressure switch but it doesnt hurt to turn them off if not needed to save battery and pump life. The location of water tanks varies. Its not uncommon for water lines to leak at joints in these old devices. What is under your sofa/bed? Its not hard to repair leaky lines, follow them, locate the leaking seam, obtain the right 3/8" replacement nylon barb accessory and clamp it on. It you are feeling adventurous, go for the sharkbite method of new lines+fittings.

Linda, you got lucky with 77/foam version. They arent all the same and 77/foam version isnt always in stock. You at least have to make sure its foam compatible before you buy. edit: also not all foam is the same. the orange foam in the roof sandwich isnt the headliner foam. edit: https://www.thefoamfactory.com/blog/index.php/pick-the-right-glue-for-the-job-how-to-select-adhesives-for-bonding-foam link notes super 77 will damage some foam.

Connected the fridge today to both 110v and propane. Sealing the damn cupboard was the biggest chore in the end. It turns on on 110v, the propane tank is empty. How long should it take to actually cool? All the appliances are now hooked back up and exist. Still need to wire water heater on/off switch. With this done only tightening loose screws and patching the various mistakes remains. Hopefully an oil change and engine hose/belt update later I will be able to start thinking of stocking up and traveling. Am now beginning to put together the toolkit for the truck. If you have your favorite must haves then please let me know. I will keep AAA RV+, and hopefully roadside insurance from the insurance as a tire change isnt likely to be my cup of tea. But minor electricals and such I should be able to manage myself.