neubie

Failed at step 1, neighbors are into hiring people with ladders. But not into ladders. Alternative -- buy second ladder. Then omitted to clamp 3/4" 1.5?×8 I was using as a board. Have a scaffold that is 2 feet high, 5 feet wide. Have a 6 foot wide platform and stools. This time, they will be clamped together like never before! edit -- and then i will still find a way to fall over. At least didnt kill the engine last time.

Yup, did. Then the board slipped and I had a good tumble. Next time I am tying down the board Or better still raising the ladder on something. You need 6ft wide and 45 inches or so high to clear the hood. May be a stool under both ends will do it. A stool hols me, ladder+me cant be that much heavier. Two stools+1 ladder= nastier fall?

I have one of these Linda, but I am sure it isnt 16ft. Is 4ft a good clearance, and what is the width? It will be the fourth ladder I will have to buy if I buy another.

What width/height scaffold do you use? And if mcgyvering what parts do you combine to make it?

thanks Greg, will look for them if/when serious work is needed.

This sort of thing happens often. When you figure out what works for you, do an update.

How much was the engine run before taking the test? How old is the gas?

Several thousand will motivate me to learn myself! I cant believe it would cost that much for diagnostics and the few things you mentioned. But this is california. I guess I should start with an oil change locally and then go from there.

I had good luck with using a fiberglass mesh along with linda's method. Cut a wide enough section to form at least one full wrap instead of just a patch to cover the crack. Mix abs shreds and abs cement separately to fully drench the fiberglass mesh. Wrap the neck with the mesh tightly so both ends of the fiberglas mesh overlap around the neck. Then apply extra abs cement to smooth over on top. Apply a second layer when dry if any gaps in coverage are visible. But my crack was much smaller.

Derek, Vanman, Vanman -- what did they charge you total, do you remember? There is no known work needed except an oil change. But, and this js a big .... butt...., it does need a thorough mechanical going over to give me some confidence in engine+transmission. Has never had anyone who knew what they were doing look it over yet. Just draining the oil and refilling will keep me uncomfortable about getting stranded. Since I dont know any mechanics here, I figured the dealer is the next best thing. It will take me years to get sufficient knowledge to maintain the truck part starting from absolute zero, current illiterate status. The fluid levels are fine, no hoses are loose, no lights that should be off are on and those that should be on are off, it starts and runs. Thats the extent of my abilities. I have degreased it some and would like the sort of thing vanman got done. As needed of course. May be a local mechanic would be just fine, buy a LCE hose kit for good measure, take it to someone like Made in Japan that Linda mentioned and have them do a fluid change and hoses.

There is all sorts of hocus pocus regarding old catalytic convertors not working well enough to pass smog. For example, https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/How-To-Pass-Smog-Test-With-Bad-Catalytic-Converter some of the reasoning makes sense, not sure the steps described do. clean injectors, new filters, new gas, running the engine for quite a while are all good things to do any way. Another thing I didnt know was this pre-test thing. The smog place should let you do a free re-test. Couldnt hurt to clear up thd engine systems a bit then let the engine run for half a tank and see if it helps.

Made In Japan is quite near. Will ask them next time I drive by.

Derek, the appointment ladies have had no general clue despite being told its just a van sized vehicle. They put me on hold and went and asked someone and came back with a negative "take it to rv mechanic" answer. Its probably the wrong answer without a basis, but how do you get your foot in the door with that attitude at the other end.

Anyone know if any of the dealers can service ye olde motorhomes? Just been told no-can-do-lift-not-big a couple times. edit -- just to emphasize, in the area of the bay de san francisco.

Both PWM and MPPT flavors come in 12/24 vs 12/48 ranges. You need one that will go up to 48V. PWM/mppt is secondary. This https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Rover-Input-Charge-Controller/dp/B01MRWTAB5/ is mppt and will NOT work for that panel. FYI -- https://www.sunwize.com/tech-notes/solar-charge-controller-types/

Solar panels convert solar energy into DC voltage/current. But your home appliances primarily run on 110v ac. RV appliances run primarily on 12V DC and avoid conversion losses/complexity. So panels and controllers have branched to match the need. This means solar panels for home typically produce a voltage outside the range of RV solar charge controllers. SW175 looks like a home panel that produces 40+V. You will have to match the charge controller to be able to accept that. Your ordinary run of the mill https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Battery-Paremeter-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B06W5NP5JR cheapo controllers are 12/24V only. They are likely incompatible with your panel. You want one that takes 12-48V range.

rented parking space or some private/rv storage until things improve. AAA towing if need be. PNO insurance savings should cover moving costs even if it needs to be towed. Its a tiny vehicle. With a little creativity I am sure parking can be found. Perhaps post/check for rent ads for storage on craigslist? Are you keen to just let go or would you rather complete/use? Either way, it looks like a reliable mechanic is needed to get it smogged. Perhaps Linda or Nam have some resources they could identify? I have also wanted a reliable mechanic in the bay area and havent had any recommendations so far. Another place to ask for someone reliable who could get it past smog is https://www.facebook.com/groups/ToyotaMotorhomeClub/ less reliable than here but has a wider audience -- of buyers and potentially persons capable of repairing.

I am not leaking.... much. The paper around the pipes is dry. Will leave it there for a few days of exercise of the system. Added dually tire valve extensions. Not sure of the quality of extensions. They were bubbling out tons of air with soap water but they are surely leaking some. Need to go back and check tire pressure. Airbags arent holding air for any meaningful periods. Slime time? Or spare the lines and replace? Realised new poop hose with integrated fixtures wont fit in the bumper. bummer. Cleaned up some. Entry door has thirty years of grime. Fortunately, both barkeepers friend and mothers work reasonably for bare aluminium. Much more cleanup still to come.

yes, thats the right thread.

It depends on the location but 1000 is not a lot to ask for a 87 toyota in running condition with a floating axle. The rest depends on your interest,imagination, time and expected value. There are months of effort still left in that project. The roof as originally constructed is a sandwitch of metal, foam, ply in a stick (and/or metal) frame. The corrugated sheets arent likely to be useful but lookup the filon roof reconstruction thread for building the rest of the roof.

In the bay area you should be able to get plenty of your money back. Post some pictures and the locals can probably help you price an ad for craigslist. These arent make or break problems. Even in californja its not unusual to have a few rust spots where you note them. Just dont expect your 30,000 back -- its not a 4x4 sunrader. As for registration, its as simple as filing planned non operation. Its not like you are taking it camping until its fixed.

I would totally do it if it didnt get in the way of my beauty sleep.

Pressurized the water system -- hot and cold. Probably should have done it much earlier. Before the furniture went up. Or even outside the toyota. At least before the furniture went up. I kept the old gray polybutylene lines for the hot water section and replaced the cold water lines with braided lines and new fittings. The hot water connections arent long, so i figured its a manageable risk. Added water by measuring to mark tank levels. Then realized it takes more than 6 gallons just to pressurize the lines. Add an accumulater and an empty water heater and gallon jugs werent going to cut it. After 6 gallons, I got tired and brought out the hose for gravity fill. Thankfully, the pump and its pressure switch are in working order. Even if it takes a relatively high pressure level to turn off the pump. Fresh water tank level sensors and circuit are also working. And pump wiring is fine except that the water pump lighted switch doesnt light up. Not a big deal. In the other corner, there were leaks despite my best efforts. And there isnt much you can do to crimped butyl lines. Cut, replace with new vinyl barb fittings, add clamps, hope for the best. Buckets were needed once paper, towels, and sponges ran out. Tightening fittings in most cramped corners always means a messy scratchy bloody affair. After a while things are holding up to the pump and accumulator. Between water proofing and vinyl planks I am not too worried of the leaks. They will be dry within the hour. Turns out the old water valves were badly placed too. The hot water heater drained right into the frame channeling water all along the length/breadth and making a rusty mess. New extensions attached somehow and hopefully a bit of duct seal and I will have water. Left enough water in the lines along with new dry paper. The pump is off so I dont expect any mishaps, but will expand water usage gradually. Holding tanks are still not cleaned up and ready for new waste, so that part waits for another day. Its a fair bit of piping but PEX+compatible fittings are probably worth the cost in a renovation.

WME, those numbers look a bit off. I cant imagine the absorption running at 10W, the controls, may be. Absorption is rated something like 175W. The energy has to come from somewhere. I have only tested the 24 series and not 23. But that eats 5-10W just for the controls. edit: google search quote "When the Dometic refrigerator operates on AC or DC, It uses heating elements (different one for 12 and 110 volts) to heat the ammonia in the refrigerator. When operating the refrigerator using 12 volts, this heating element operates at about 12.5 amps. That is a good amount of current." edit2: i think WME meant cooling by LP (not by dc) but operating on DC normal operation. then his numbers are right and i am dumb.

the dc runs the control panel, control circuits, electric ignition, you need it all the time. the dc power use is negligible until both lp and ac are not available. then it uses dc for actual cooling and consumes something like 4-5a while it needs to cool (once every few hours).