smokepolehall

Glad to hear that all turned out well on roof and the rain. I got hole drilled in support, can't bolt it yet. I cleaned out all the rotted wood from under entry step. Then c clamped new wood under door drilled 5 holes and popped wood screws into wood. Put the 4 nut driver screws in. Had to take the gas cap plastic housing off, its broken. Happened during coach sinking down below the few supports. Just one thing after another. I got new wood installed under gas opening after cleaning all that rotted wood out. 2 holes in floor one above the dual wheels on passenger side. Another by converter. I will repair them,sometime later. Aug. i reckon, as i will still be cleaning rest of rotted wood out of bottom on passenger side. Its mid 90's outside so it will be later today before i bolt top of angle on support.

Congrats on the Toy. You made a good deal if it runs well. I gave about $800 for a 79. Toy Check to see what works and what doesn't , so yours is about 8 years newer and has to be in better shape than mine was. If it leaks get a good tarp to cover it. Then just repair items as needed or is the priority!

This has been one of those days friends! I went and got pair of 3 ton jack stands and i got them under the Odd Duck. Took one of the jacks out so i have room under there to drill the holes. I had to stop at that point as it started to sprinkle. I had to hurry and put my tools up. Had to put up lawnmower and air compressor. Well tomorrow is a new day.

I tell ya there is always a dime holding up a hundred dollars! I don't have enough room to drill holes to bolt on angle supports. So i jacked up Odd Duck and took duals off on passerger side. Put 2 jacks under plus leveling jack in rear is down. I am just too old to take a chance. So i waited until i got some coins, will go to town and buy a set of 3 ton jack stands. Then i can drill the holes and not worry about close to 2 tons coming down on top of me! I want to go camping not take a dirt nap!

Don't have a 2' wood clamp, to hold step up to to attach L brackets. So i measured width and made a push on clamp. Made just abit tight and will tap it on with hammer. Then see if i can finish this project up. Then i will start on next repair project.

I got the bottom step measured and cutout. then i cutout another matching piece. Now its 1" thick and put on 4 L brackets. Got too hot after noon so i came inside to suck up cool air. I'll get back to it tomorrow. Have to cut an acre yard later today.

I also hav a 4'x8' utility trailer, that i will put several big storage containers on plus a 132 lb. gen. and my Honda 4 wheeler on when i go deer hunting. I don't think i will have any problems towing it. I don't drive fast with my 4cyl. 4 spd. 55 mph would be max, usually 50 mph on good roads unless lots of curves and hills an hollows. Then i will slow down ease along, don't want to abuse my eng.

I have a 12 all welded alum. V Hull boat and outboard ,deep cycle battery, trolling motor, seats ,3 gal.remote gas tank on a 16' boat trailer. My 79 Odyssey pulls it and i don't even know its there! I did that soon as i got MH, too see if all was good. So now when i get MH repaired enough to go i can hook it up and head out to Dale Hollow Lake.

I went under the Odd Duck to check out and measure its frame on top of chassis. Right behind cab is a sq. tubing 2x2 inches full width. Next 24" from that one is the next, its also a 2x2 but is 4" shy on both sides of making it to the outside walls! 2' space to next frame support and its a 1/8" channel iron full width of Toy. Last 5'6" space is a rect. tube 1"x 2" full width. The last and the first were 1/4" thick. The 2nd and 3 rd were 1/8" thick and none of them are the same! Only 3 of the 4 are full width, also the back 2 are same ht. and front 2 are same ht. Now from the front to the rear is a drop down of one inch because use of different materials and the sizes being different! No they didn't use higher stock shims in back, i took tape and measured. Don't know who they hired to build the MH's but they suck as being any kind of craftsman! I do believe thats why they went out of business, poor quality of materials and labor! Just my opinion!

I did manage to measure and cut and install both sides to step and the kickwall. Soon as i can cut bottom part of step and put it in, i will put the perforated 1 1/4"x 1 1/4" angle for support. The passenger wall where entry door is. Has seperated and is 7/8" wider at door handle side than at hinged side. I will have to use high-lift jack to push bottom of door back into square then bolt up angle support.

I have found it! From the fiberglas Cab panels on both sides to the rear. Its all rotted and i have been removing it, the hard way! Using a screwdriver as i don't have any wood chisels. Some folks liked them better than i did and removed lock from shed. Of course they found lots of other stuff they could use! This will teach me to live within 35 miles of Memphis Tn. Thinking of trimming all the alum. skin except what i can tuck under and staple to a 1"x1". Yes they had the alum. skin on inside too. Rotted out because it was never sealed under there. Its too late after being 29 years old. Best i can tell all that stuff hanging down is for appearance, does nothing for support. Just adds 20 or 30 extra lbs. i don't need!

I am trying to, will take a pic of the area step was in and when i get angle put in. Don't have a welder, that would be so much easier. i will have to bolt in all together. Such is life, don't cha love it!

Well i got a 4' stick of 18ga. perforated galv. angle. I have cut couple of short lengths off of it. Plus i have couple of L brackets. Will use them for new ply supports. Have to drill about 6 more holes here and there and bolt support frame together. Then i will cut ply and install as step.

Pricing guide is a grand per year starting at 82 $2,000 ballpark figure. Goes up a grand a year. Really low milage and mint stored, garaged cost more. Make sure it has the 6 lug axle, listen to engine and drive it. Look under it very closely for any damage including tanks. Look on roof for water leaks and deep pooling of water, sunk down roof! Go inside check every appl. the toilet /shower sink fridge a/c waterpump for fresh water. Check under all cabinets for water damage and stains that will tell it leaks! Check under bedding on cabover as they reall rot quick. If the owner doesn't want you to do this or things are broken either reduce price bigtime or walk away. I am repairing mine and they suck up money like a sponge likes water! I got mine really cheap, but now i see it wasn't cheap enough!

Sunrader maybe the most sought after. Each floorplan has its pro's and cons, what do you like! Most folks are buying the newer Toy's with V-6 winnies. My personal opinion stay from the really older alum. skinned stick and foam Toys. I have one and all the repairs are starting to give me a migrain! RV online, craigslist, and ebay and daily internet search. Expect to shell some chump change during summer as they always sell higher than winter. Fiberglas Toys have much less issues with leaks and water damage.

Thats true, and thats what i was going to do. Found the floor rotted out and the alum. skin on bottom with holes sides sunk couple inches. Holding tank cracked badly. I just ripped out what was left of the entry step at door. It was rotted and i durn near broke through. Nothing under step for support either, just 3/8" ply. I know my next Toy MH will have some issues. I will look for a 86-90 model. Unless i find one with the 6 lug, i hope to find a fiberglas model. I am abit shy of the automatic's. I could never get up $2500-3500 for a rebuild on one. I couldn't believe they didn't put alum. angle frame under bottom of these match stick Toy MH's.

I will take measurements and see if i can get some newer Camry seats to fit. Mayhave to drill and take on another project. I am tired of not getting any of the MH done. Seems like i have to rip out something else before i can even continue with the first repair. No one's fault but mine. It won't ever happen again, have learned well on this one. No wonder the company went out of business!

Spect you had to do abit of modification to get them to fit. I hope to find some Toyota seats that are decent. Don't need anymore projects on this MH. I have the time chump change is hard to come by.

I'd say you have your work cut out for you. My MH has the alum. skin and its old, has many spots where the alum. gotten bad. Its not worth all the money and time to get it right. We live on a fixed income so its better to repair this one enough to use for several years. We can set aside money to buy a newer Toy thats fiberglas. Don't think it will be any lighter but easier for me to repair fiberglas than all the rot these wood and alum. skinned shoddy built coaches. They sure cut costs and it shows on every aspect of their construction. They couldn't have had any quality control!

Hey i pulled my seats out to rid cab of bug catching old green shag nasty carpet. Will any of the newer seats from Toyota trucks or cars fit? The seats sure ain't comfortable, feels like i am sitting on the floor!

As i was pulling all the alum. trim on bottom of sides.So i can put alum. angle in for floor support. i found the tank cracked and 2 of the 3 mounting brackets bent. I assume previous owner ran over a stump at deer camp. Plus all the bottom of sides and door step are completely rotted! I am wondering if i will ever stop finding bad and rotted stuff.

I have decided to use alum. angle 1.5x1.5x.0625 on the outside on top of those supports. Will attach alum. skin to them. I will also put alum. rect.tubing 1x2 on inside supports and on the rear. Have to use those self threading countersunk screws. I have sheet of 3/4" foam insulation to replace that old styerfoam i took out. I will put 1/2" ply on top of that and the tubing. Should give coach better support. So 2 alum. angle 48" long and 5 alum. rect. tubing 4 at 48" long and one at 78", they will be 1/8" thick.

I have never driven one with the V-6, mine will do double nickels . Mines 28 years old runs good, 17'6" bumper to bumper. Not long at all, the shower in mine ok but my Mrs. is fluffy and its really close for her, LOL! I drove mine thru some of these rollin hills in Tn. and never went below 3rd, unless stopping. Ours isn't all that heavy either, have only taken the one trip. When we brought it home, been working on coach repairs ever since.

The fiberglas models are more water resistant, not prone to leak. The windows or vents may if not cared for. Even a non running sunrader with missing parts, actually its a parts rv will cost over a grand! Folks talk about how slow and heavy sunraders are with 4 cyl. Thats good for me, we want to enjoy looking at the country as we ease thru it. I want a sunrader 4 cyl. 4 spd. would be dandy, 18' or 21'. I will have to save up for one, it won't be this year. Have more than my hands full on the Odd Duck i own now!

Well the Odd Duck has put lock on all extra funds right now. So that sunrader will go to another, isn't it up around a grand now. Ya really would want a serious project to get that one 7 grand to put into it.