256bit
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Posts posted by 256bit
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11 hours ago, WME said:
If you have cruise control that maybe the vacuum accumulator.
Oh wow, good catch. I hadn't even thought of that. That's actually right where mine was so that's probably it.
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Looks like a charcoal canister. Confirm by checking if the vacuum lines run to another charcoal canister, the vapor return line (metal fuel rail), a vacuum switch, and/or the reed valve/EACV/EGR/something on your intake manifold.
It looks like the one that's loose is the vapor hose. Just put a spring clip or some kind of clamp on it.
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1 hour ago, Maineah said:
Looks like a motherboard from around 2004.
Yes, example pictures. I don't have blown capacitors on my sensor panel to show him
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If it ends up being the panel itself, it's very, very unlikely that the board itself is damaged. If it's anything like mine, it has hand drawn traces. Like this:
They're very easy to follow if you know just a little bit about how circuits work. More likely than anything - if it is the board - is that one of the thruhole mounted components (like a capacitor) got fried. If that's the case, you can replace it for pennies, plus a soldering iron and some solder+flux. Here are some pics to help:
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On 5/31/2017 at 9:05 PM, linda s said:
I wasn't suggesting you use those rails. They are wicked weak. I'm saying if you bolt something anywhere those sides are the right place to do it. This isn't a perfect example but it is on a fiberglass roof. Brackets on the side attach it. I'm betting to protect the roof from too much weight. Ya know later model Sunraders have beams one the inside to support the roof and they are attached right where I'm talking about so Sunrader must have thought that area was stronger too
Linda S
On 6/2/2017 at 1:59 PM, Totem said:I would counter you should remove the rails and reuse the holes, and get brackets drill to match the holes that the rail brackets already placed into your roof. You cannot feel guilty about those they are already there, plus thats not a roof rack its a light weight aluminum TV antennae tubing thats weak and gets crap reception. Love this idea.. I plan on removing my rails, and mounting ratchet straps to the holes (just drill mount holes through the ratchet strap body) and creating ratchet strap webbing that will allow custom cargo, or sears xcargo pods. Best part about the pods, you CAN drill into those and mount panels atop the pod roofs. boom love it... now I just gotta find two matching sears xcargos.
All done!
I know I posted this in the DIY thread, but I wanted to post it here for continuity reasons. I can upload the CAD files if anyone wants the design. It's just 328" of 1/4" aluminum angle, 2sqft of 1/4" aluminum plating, and 44" of square aluminum tubing, plus a few dozen 1/4" aluminum (steel mandrel) rivets off mcmaster that have the highest tolerances I could find (>700lb to shear)
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Thanks @linda s for the solar rack advice. I took it 100% and designed it that way. Made it out of aluminum angles w/ 1/4" rivets (got a workout punching those in, jesus christ)
I ran it right where you said I should, the same ledge as the tv antenna, and around the vent cover.
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I'll post some more pics when the engine is running
we're very close to being done
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1 hour ago, WME said:
Well I guess 256bit and I've been smoking something
http://www.lceperformance.com/EGR-Block-Plate-Kit-20R-22R-Carb-Only-p/1016038.htm.
The 3rd plate is a water block off plate for manifold changes. Forgot that that LMBC was only changing the carb not carb and intake.
The link also has a video which answers many questions.,
I guess I've been smoking something too. I made my own plate for that mating surface so I can pull manifold vacuum from it. Whoops
@LilMamaBoneCrusher buy them or make your own. seriously though, there's a reason aside from emissions that you have manifold vacuum on the PCV. If the blowby is not adequately vented it will do 3 things:
- Contribute to the corrosion of things that are really, really important (crankshaft, oil galleys, etc)
- The positive pressure from inadequately vented blowby will blow gaskets and cause leaks everywhere
- Create a layer of grime on the inside of the block and head that will eventually gum up your entire engine
Back in the day, they were run directly under the car. Contrary to popular belief, they didn't just move away from this because it dripped oil onto the road and vented blowby to the atmosphere. It was a 2 birds one stone sorta thing. The passing air did not create enough vacuum pressure to adequately vent mid-high mileage engines (with mid-high ring wear). So don't do that. As you can imagine, regular breathers will be a death sentence for your engine (aside from them getting completely clogged by oil within a few hundred miles)
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You can run emissions with a weber but only w/ the california smog legal version. Personally when I did mine I was happy to be rid of all the emissions crap. Do you know what that stuff does after 40 years? That's right, nothing. If your EGR valve hasn't been replaced, it's already completely clogged and stuck (hopefully in the closed position). To run a regular 32/36 weber you only need 2 vacuum lines: one for the brake booster and one (not two) for the distributor advance. Everything else, if it has a vacuum line running to it, rip it out of the engine bay and throw it in the trash. The other issue you'll run into is the stock PCV configuration. You need to vent blowby out of the engine, which requires vacuum. Since you can't get it from the smog shit or carb anymore, you need to pull direct manifold vacuum. I have a barbed pipe fitting on my intake manifold which serves this purpose. You can remove all of the vacuum switches and useless junk from your manifold and plug them up (LCE sells the plug kit, you won't find JSPT/BSPT plugs in a hardware store)
In the webers normal configuration, the PCV fitting farthest from the firewall (without the valve) will go to the carb, bypassing the filter on the airbox. The valved one needs manifold vacuum. Put catch cans on both of them.
It's tempting to just put breathers on both, but you will reduce your engine lifespan in doing so. You can find cheap catch cans from china and stuff some baffling in them (steel wool works really well), or make your own from aluminum water bottles. Don't use PVC piping as it will definitely melt.
I don't know what @WME is smoking but you only need 1 plate on a pre-85 22r. http://www.lceperformance.com/EGR-Block-Plate-Kit-Cyl-Head-20R-22R-RE-RET-p/1016009.htm
You can just cut the air injection rail and fold it over on your manifold, then use a wire feed welder to seal it if you're paranoid. I can upload a picture of mine if you want.
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Oil pump isn't hard, I did mine in an afternoon. Don't know about the v6, but on my 22R it's just removing the radiator, fan clutch and belts, pulling the balancer then swapping the oil pump.
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34 minutes ago, linda s said:
thing is lots of don't have expensive Toyota thermostats and ours don't overheat. If there was air in the system but he sounds like he was really careful about getting that all out. I know cooling ports in the heads can get very clogged up. Got to be another reason for his problems. The extra heat gauge he's getting will tell us more. I hope. Timing advanced to far can cause overheating. Have you checked the timing?
Linda S
Second on this. My engine is off to the machinist right now to be measured etc. Once we got the block disassembled down to bare iron it became obvious that someone had run straight water in the rad for a really really long time. Caked layers of corroded metal and junk restricting the flow through coolant passages in the head and block. Unfortunately (according to my pal whose helping me rebuild the engine, I'm still learning myself) there's no quick or easy fix when it's that bad. No amount of flushing or backflushing would've gotten all that crap out. It just had to be baked off at a few thousand degrees.
If money's tight I would grab a timing light from Amazon ('fulfilled by amazon' or 'sold by amazon') due to their no questions asked return policy.
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On 5/30/2017 at 2:35 PM, linda s said:
Yup weight added here on the vertical section will be distributed better and not damage the existing roof. Many Sunrader owners have noticeable sag in the roof because of the composition supporting it underneath breaks down. This will also give your panels room to cool making them more efficient. Also because your attaching them to a frame instead of your roof if one fails it's an easy replacement.
Linda S
I've been thinking about it all day. The rails sit lower than the roof itself, so to run mounting rails across them they need to be extended upwards. The only thing I've been able to think of is welding an extension onto the rails. I can do it but it would be a massive pain in the behind. Have you seen any solutions that don't involve welding though?
If I just ran them across the roof and secured them to the rails with uclips it would put all of the weight on the roof, just without holes. That still doesn't seem ideal.
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48 minutes ago, linda s said:
If your not going to use thin solar panels the best way is to make a frame coming from the sides and screw the panels onto that. The strength of a Sunrader roof comes from the composite panel created by the wood and foam compressed to the fiberglass. Not something you want to start screwing bolts through. here's an example of a frame but on a Sunrader I would strongly suggest you attach it to the inset area on the sides of the roof
Linda S
Thanks for the info Linda! By the insert areas on the side, do you mean where these metal rails are?
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Hiya everybody. So in my renovation journey, the next step is putting a bunch of solar panels on the roof.
I was wondering if anyone knew the thickness of the plywood used for the ceiling in the Sunrader. It looks to be about 1/4" or thinner but I'm not sure. If it's that thin, to properly secure it, I was thinking that I should use 6 z brackets per panel, tap out the holes, then use bolts with well nuts, with self-leveling lap sealant on both sides of the brackets. My head already touches the ceiling in the Sunrader (I'm 6'2") so I'm trying to avoid having bolts sticking out the plywood if possible. Is there any other way to safely secure it, excluding adhering the panel to the roof? I've tried reading around online but most info out there isn't relevant for a fiberglass shell RV.
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On 5/20/2017 at 6:53 PM, Gerard H said:
Hey guys, as we are going up hills our temperature gauge tends to go up the the red fairly quickly. I am not pushing the gas too hard. Any tips and suggestions how I can fix it ? On the flat ground the temperature is great ! I m driving 91 Toyota dolphin.
No overheating at idle? Before you run and replace your radiator, make sure that you're not leaking coolant, and make sure that your water pump hasn't failed (look @ the weep hole) - either of these things could cause what you've described
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On 5/19/2017 at 10:05 AM, Totem said:
Ive seen some engineering students make amazing antennaes from Pringles cans, and then go into Home Depot Parking lots and pull full strength from their open wifi non password protected LANs. I was intrigued by this, and tempted to build a pringles antennae myself.
A pringles can antenna used to be pretty good. Now that their tubes are made out of plastic, you have to find something else. This is a good calculator: http://www.wikarekare.org/Antenna/WaveguideCan.html
All it requires is a little soldering, some copper wire and an SMA connector.
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On 5/1/2017 at 8:52 PM, whyverne14 said:
I'm trying to keep up. Sounds interesting. So could one connect a router to this setup for multiple devices?
I'm researching it. A laptop with a virtual router sounds possible. I have to figure out if it would work with my cheap Chromebook. I do need a better laptop for the road.
Sorry for the late reply. My 22R is stripped down to the block right now. Sending it off to the machinist then I have to put it back together and fix the total hackjob wiring.
Yes you can, it's close to how mine is setup. If you don't really care about speed beyond 1-2mBps and want to be cheap just use a raspberry pi zero ($0.99 + 2 WiFi adapters) as a router/bridge. You can read about my crazy setup in the other thread.
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On 4/24/2017 at 10:39 AM, Derek up North said:
You should assemble plug & play 'packages' and sell them for half the cost. I know that for me your posts are like Chinese and I'm not about to learn a foreign language in order to check my emails or watch TV. But I'm always interested in saving a buck.
Without all of the jargon, it's really simple, no packaging needed.
This would be the simplest possible setup:
You use the included cable to connect the ALFA wifi adapter to the amplifier (the side that says 'Router' on the sticker), then you screw the amplifiers antenna onto the amplifier. You plug the amplifier in, then you use the USB cable to connect the wifi adapter to your computer. (if your computer isn't ancient, you shouldn't need to install any drivers). Done, 30 seconds, total power of 41dBm, 2x more powerful than the Rogue Wave. And for only $50.
As far as upgrades go, there are two ways you can do it. A directional antenna would be best, but requires you to point the antenna at the AP. The upside is that the range is MUCH higher. You could also mount an omnidirectional antenna (like the one that comes with the Rogue Wave) to your RV. Either way, avoid chinesium (antennas are sensitive and need good QC - that is where you do actually get what you pay for) and just remember that generally the higher the dBi of the antenna, the farther the range.
Three caveats:
- The cheap 4W amp will flood the licensed spectrum @ 1.7ghz. If you parked right at the end of a runway you would interfere with aircraft navigation systems. So don't do that. Otherwise it's fine.
- It's illegal. It's regulated this way because if everybody was blasting the air with extremely powerful transmitters/antennas the level of interference would nullify the gains. You won't get caught running anything more powerful. Pretty much the only way you would get caught is if you wrote a letter to the FCC, gave them your social security number, and bragged about how much your setup is over reg, then told them exactly where you will be at a specific date if they want to come check it out.
- When upgrading the antenna, don't get one of those thin black plastic ones - the back EMFI will destroy the signal. The one that comes with the amplifier is an exception because it has a large ground plane (in laymans terms, this is almost equivalent to electrical ground). It was designed specifically to be used with the amplifier. Any of the large metal antennas (like this Yagi antenna, which I personally recommend) are fine and have a sufficiently large ground plane.
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On 1/22/2017 at 5:04 PM, RedEmerald said:
If you can afford it (you get what you pay for) take a good look at this. It will be going on my rig soon. Its just down the list right now because of front to back maintenance issues since I just bought the motorhome. This comes from personal experience. I have bought six of these, four sailboats that I have owned and one for a travel trailer and one for a friends boat. This is the cats meow of wifi for the mobile lifestyle.
Sorry to say but you're way overpaying for what you get. That setup has an ERP of 35dBm (yes 35, they lied, it's not 36, the actual antenna gain is 3.45W not their stated 4W) because it has a run of the mill low dBi dipole omnidirectional antenna and only 800mW of txpower. They say 'marine antenna', there is no such thing. It's a dipole antenna, the exact same kind of omni antenna on any router or wifi card - theirs is just slightly bigger. Funnily enough, they're only that wide when they have an ENORMOUS ground plane to prevent back EMFI, which that setup absolutely does not need at 800mW. You can achieve the same for a total of $30 on Amazon, including mounting hardware and a NEMA shell.
dBm stands for decibel-milliwatts. Every step of 3dBm doubles your power. So 36dBm is 4 watts, 33dBm is 2 watts, 30dBm is 1 watt. For less than $100 on Amazon you can pickup a 4 watt (which is 36dBm) 2.4ghz amplifier, a 24dBi 2.4ghz parabolic antenna, and a wifi card with a very solid chipset (note: avoid Realtek). This places you at a total power of 60dBm, 250x more powerful than the "Rogue Wave". Note that this is completely illegal to use, per FCC regulations in the US. (Not that you'd ever get caught
) I'm just illustrating what a rip off it is.
A directional antenna is essentially a wide-beam attenuator, narrow-beam antenna. Because of the way that RF works, the higher the gain of the directional antenna, the better the signal but the smaller the coverage angle. In the real world, the inverse is true for an omnidirectional antenna - the higher the dBi, the narrower the vertical plane. Omnidirectional antennas are not good for long-distance applications for this reason. At sufficiently high dBi (maybe 16dBi) the antenna will get crap signal with only a 10ft difference in elevation to the access point. The only reason those things work so well - even though they're barely better than a shitty TP Link wifi card - is because you're on the water.
The setup described above would have an effective real-world range of probably 20 times the distance of the Rogue Wave, for 1/4 the cost. Or the former, the same effective range, for 1/10th the cost.
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That's $150. You can make a far superior setup for pennies with a raspberry pi, a 4W 2.4ghz amplifier, a good antenna, a wifi dongle with a decent chipset (like the ALFA 036NH) and a low power dongle for AP mode. I have mine setup to find and connect to networks automatically, just a few dozen lines of python. It's also a media server. The range is probably 4x that setup, and it costed me about $18.
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Free wifi everywhere. My system has a total power of 63dBm. Under impossibly perfect conditions (except maybe the low desert), factoring some obstacles/the fresnel effect this means I could hit a McDonalds from 3 miles away and still have a SAD factor of 30%, a margin of 18dBm.
A 2.4ghz 27dBi parabolic antenna (satellite dish, basically) connected to a tiny 6rpm 12v DC high torque motor, mounted to the roof with a weatherproof project box, connected to an L298N motor controller, connected to a raspberry pi. The raspberry pi has two wifi cards. One with a 4 watt amplifier, the other is a low power (100mW) card in AP mode. So the raspberry pi creates the local wifi network (with the SSID 'pi'). The L298N has a regulated 5V output pin so everything can be powered on a single 12V 2A DC supply.
I am fully aware of the fact that a 27dBi antenna w/ a 4 watt amplifier is not legal, so I don't need to be reminded anybody. The amplifier itself isn't legal anyway, it's some cheapo made in china piece of crap that floods the licensed spectrum @ ~1.7ghz (meaning that if I parked at the end of a runway, or if it was quite a bit more powerful, it would be interfering with aircraft navigation systems). But it surprisingly (being Chinese and all) actually does amplify it's transmission circuit to 36dBm on 2.4ghz, which is all I want it to do.
Then, this is where my programming skills came in handy.
The raspberry pi programmatically controls the rotation of the parabola through the motor controller with two GPIO pins and pulse-width modulation. As the antenna rotates, - being a directional antenna - it picks up different wifi networks. It programmatically sorts them by highest dBm, completing two full rotations of the antenna - about 2 minutes, then connects to the best available network by rotating the parabola to it's dBm peak. Since it's not a servo it does this by finding the peak then reversing the polarity of the motor. Activating an LED on the pi's GPIO pins to indicate that it's connected.I connect to my local 'pi' network, which forwards all traffic to the second chipset/amplifier/antenna combo.
The raspberry pi also runs a media server, torrenting stuff as needed automatically from tracker RSS feeds.
It might sound complicated but it's not. Programming aside, the physical hardware takes an hour to setup if you have no idea what you're doing. It's really simple. The GPIO pins on the raspberry pi switch current from software. The L298N:
is a glorified current control circuit. It receives 12V DC power and supplies it to the motor output pins based on the pi's input. The output pins on the L298N connect to the motor. The antenna is mounted to the motor. The input on the L298N is PWM from the Pi - pulse-width modulation is just switching the power on and off really, really fast, to achieve the same effect as having lower current. All part of the Pi's standard python GPIO library.
I'd encourage anyone who is moderately tech literate to give this a try. Code available if anyone wants it. Cost is relatively inexpensive. With some basic math, tools and understanding of RF you can build the antenna for about $15. You could run it from a Raspberry Pi Zero, which is $0.99. It needs an SD card, 8GB can be had for $5. You need a couple of diodes because the L298N is very vulnerable to back EMF, maybe $2. You can get a DC motor just about anywhere for free, find a kids toy or something. Or you can buy one for about $10. All in all it shouldn't cost more than $35, but if you were buying all the shit you need on Amazon it would quickly exceed $100.
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So to conclude the thread... here was the issue.
It was venting at the fridge and possibly the water heater.
Since 3 days of liquid wrench wasn't budging the flare nuts at the junctions, I tried removing the oven. Unfortunately, some of the mounting screws are so rust rotten that the heads were just slicing off like butter. The shafts were intact, so it wouldn't have been possible to remove it without powertools.
What I ended up doing was using a pair of bigass wire snips to cut the line at the first T joint, then shoving an entire tube of jb weld down the pipe, clamping it down and letting it cure, clamping it down fully, then placing several layers of epoxy over the clamped off end. This will work as a temporary measure but is by no means safe and I'm fully aware of that - I am placing a (tested & working) battery operated propane gas alarm next to my epoxy hackjob before using it. It's not leaking now but I'm not counting on it holding, so I am venting the system every time I'm done using it. It will only be a couple of weeks before I have a chance to rip the stove out and replace the line.
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20 hours ago, linda s said:
from the back of the water heater you can see where the water line goes in and out. Just bypass it. Connect the in pipe directly to the out pipe. I never use my water heater.
Linda S
My inner idiot came out today. I unscrewed the bottom fitting on the water heater, and thought oh, there's not that much water in there. It's just airtight. I unscrewed the top fitting, and it started spraying everywhere. I sat there with my thumb over the inlet for about an hour trying to figure out what I could do with what was within arms reach, determined to finish the job. Instead I ended up screwing the damn thing back in and opening the hot water tap until it filled with water. It should be fine if it's kept full, I think.
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On 4/18/2017 at 5:11 PM, Maineah said:
Good news: after putting a garden hose valve on the city water hookup (the internal spring valve failed) the water is holding pressure fine. As long as I don't try to turn the hot water knob.. then water EXPLODES out of it with enough force to send it all over the RV, lol.
You have a water tank with 6 gallons of air in it! You can go outside and open the relief valve until nothing but water comes out or just open the hot water tap slightly until all the air escapes either way it will take 6 gallons of water. There are two one way valves in your water system one at the hose tap that keeps the water from falling out when the pump is on the other is in the pump to keep the city water from filling your fresh water tank to the point of over flowing.
I'm sorry to say this but I'm a bit confused. How would the water pump be pulling air, and why would the proper spring valve city hookup relieve excess pressure? My understanding of it was that the city water valve would close when under positive pressure and open when under negative pressure, and that it doesn't bleed excess pressure or anything.
If you mean the hot water tank, well that's even more confusing. The previous owner was under the impression that somebody had removed it. I cut out some of the cardboard just to get a look and it's still in there, slowly leaking water and nonfunctional. It's getting filled by the pump I think. I can't make heads or tails of the rats nest of hosing, despite my best efforts.
Please excuse my ignorance. I'm just not following what you're saying.
Edit: Oh... I think I get what you're saying now. Because of the air in the hot water tank, the pump can't fill it until it's bled off? If that's what you're saying, I'm just going to rip that piece of crap out of there and test it on the regulator outside. If it works I'll put it on eBay or give it to someone here because I don't want it.
On 4/17/2017 at 7:23 AM, fred heath said:I purchased model 59333 two stage regulator. Went through 4 of them (all defective) before going to propane warehouse.
Camco is very responsive and continued to replace them. But a bad batch is still a bad batch.
On the upside, I ripped all of the old copper propane lines out today and replaced them with new ones. The oven and range work fine. Like you said, the camco regulator is bunk, I got the same one. Hooked it up to a 20#er (vertical this time :P) The pressure isn't too high but it fluctuates rapidly. I spent the extra $15 to get one that's made in the USA, and will return the camco one when it gets here. Lesson learned. Where explosive gas is concerned, don't put your life in the hands of some poor subjugated wage slave deep in a chinese sweatshop.
we're very close to being done
) I'm just illustrating what a rip off it is.
What's this thing? Part 2
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
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Do you have a control module? I think it's pretty much unheard of (but I could very easily be wrong) for any of those cruise modules to still be installed. I know that they're worth a boatload of money.