256bit
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Posts posted by 256bit
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Alrighty so, I have read lots and lots of threads here and I'm familiar with the almighty SIP and it's fabled structural integrity.
However, my ceiling is far beyond repair. It's mostly delaminated, COVERED in mold (after sitting in washington for only 3 months), and rotting through.
Is there an ideal way to replace it? I've already got the rest of the interior stripped down to the fiberglass, if that helps. I would prefer not to add much in the way of thickness, as I already can't stand up in it (6')
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I have an '83 sunrader, rear dinette model. The ceiling is delaminating and the cabinets are falling apart. I want to rebuild the interior, however I don't have the space or time to strip it down to the fiberglass because I live in it full time. As I understand it, the plywood walls and ceiling are glued to the fiberglass. How is it best removed? And what did you replace your walls with?
I don't have any skills in carpentry and I'm wondering how long it will take as well. I'm a bit overwhelmed by it all and don't really know where to begin, any suggestions?
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On #1 you should check the basics first.. if there's any restriction in the radiator, or if there's any coolant coming out of the weep hole on the water pump
On #2, grades can be very deceptive. Get an inclinometer and it may just answer your question. I was having similar concerns until I discovered that I'm just "incline challenged" (sometimes I can't even tell if we're going uphill or downhill)
On #3, start with new shocks and an air lift/bags. Shocks are simple and inexpensive. The air kit should be no more than $350ish plus labour if you're not DIYing it. -
On 09/01/2017 at 0:16 AM, WME said:
Movement front to back or side side?
1/2" rotational play, should have specified. Side to side maybe 1/16. I haven't properly checked front to back by jacking the transmission but otherwise none.
23 hours ago, Maineah said:Sounds fairly normal to me for a 34 year old truck. Ring to pinion play and old engine mounts.
Yeah I figure the pinion is too far forward or the ring gear is too far to the side, but I definitely don't know what the hell I'm doing and can't reshim the bearings. The differential is frightening since it's the only part of the driveline that can't be DIY'd and I'm too broke for a gear shop
Mostly just needing to know (hoping) the diff isn't going to grenade itself anytime soon. Picking up that slack can't be good for the gears. -
Because I have the 1 ton axle I'm not sure if the FSM 1/2 ton info is relevant. When I was checking the ujoints due to clunking when shifting, I discovered that I have half an inch of play in my propeller shaft. Anyone know what the maximum spec on the play is?
That's probably where all my annoying driveline slack is. I'm thinking the clunking while shifting delio is a worn out rear transmission mount because the shifter pulls really hard to one side if I dump the clutch in first. -
Shocks are a very universal item and you don't need oem. Just grab a pair of KYB gas-a-just KG5434s or Bilsteins if you're feeling spendy. I run gas-a-justs on mine and it's a very smooth ride.
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So my previous owner caulked the water heater in, on the backside of the rim with the screws. He caulked it directly to the fiberglass Since it's under the rim, how do I loosen the caulk? By shoving a razor blade in there? I don't want to damage the fiberglass. I thought about coming in from behind it, inside the rv, and hitting it with something like a dead blow hammer, but there isn't enough room.
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6 hours ago, linda s said:
Sorry got old offer. Here's the link for the current one
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/news/pdf/KYB-Feeling-is-Believing-Fall-2017.pdf
Wow I got shafted. I purchased the front and rear shocks separately, it requires them to be on the same invoice. Nothing a little Photoshop can't fix.
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2 hours ago, linda s said:
The rebate is a prepaid card worth that much not cash and it comes directly from KYB not shock warehouse. You need to send them the rebate form by mail
A member of one of my groups negotiated a discount from shock warehouse many years ago. Don't know if it will still work but you could try. at checkout put in discount code "toycamper5" for 5% off. If you try it and it works please let me know
Linda S
The terms and conditions for the rebate say " Submissions postmarked after May 31, 2016 will not be honored"
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57 minutes ago, markwilliam1 said:
Those are the exact lights I have on Grannie 256. I was Very lucky a member here saw a listing for these brand new old stock on eBay. I bought a pair. Never seen them for sale before. What's wrong with yours?
This is what's wrong
2 hours ago, linda s said:You have Bargman Reflecto lites that look like this
There is no exact replacement. A member here made some steel backing plates to install newer LED lits in the same space but you could make some of your own backing plates. White plastic, maybe plexi or HDPE. The 84's are taller than your existing lights so you would need to cut the center of a opening a little but I bet you can make it work.
Linda S
I bought the tall 84s (with each reflector being 'taller' than wider), that was my problem. I just found the horizontal 84s that you linked to a long time ago, and picked up a pair:
The ones with the vertical reflectors would require significant material to be cut. The others one should fit with only a quarter inch or so.
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I've searched the forum and only come up with custom fab stuff. I would go that route but I don't have the time right now. I picked up some bargman 84s but the cutout size is too large. They would require cutting a significant amount of fiberglass off the shell. I don't want to do that.
Does anyone know of some tail lights that will fit and don't look terrible, even if I have to make a backplate?
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13 minutes ago, Sigmaz said:
Hello!
My name is Jon and I live in Hamilton Square, a small village outside of Stroudsburg, PA approximately 8 miles west of the Delaware Water Gap NJ/PA border.
I have been looking for a Toyota based RV for well over 4 years now, I have participated in groups, drooled over craigslist ads, and even helped a friend of mine buy a Dolphin in Florida so he and his girlfriend could travel the country for 2 years.
*snip*
What the...
How did you clean it?
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1 hour ago, WME said:
I can rebuild an engine better than many of the pro shops, if you don't think so, why just ask me about me
... What that means if you need to find out who did the rebuild and check their reputation. This is the same as what mods the PO did to the RV you end up with. Some POs are better than others.
Words ..."Overhauled" is a lesser rebuild. Mainly a quickie redo...Rings, rod bearings and a new gasket set... Good for 25,000-50,000 mi.
"Rebuild" means the engine has been re manufactured...new oversized pistons and rings, new bearings rods and mains, new timing chain, oil pump. The block is machined for the larger pistons, the crankshaft is machined for the new thicker bearings. The head gets the valves resurfaced or replaced and is checked for being straight. The higher quality rebuilds will use a new head assy. Other HQ signs new camshaft and followers
Gotta dig for the facts
Yeah you really need to be careful with PO info. My PO had rebuilt the head 60,000mi before I bought it, but he trashed it. Milled way too far under minimum spec, no coolant pressure for a long, long time, ran only water in the rad for at least a decade, thought replacing an exhaust stud with RTV was good enough, chowdered oil pump threads with imperial bolts nearly resulting in catastrophic engine failure when all the oil leaked out in a couple of miles.. used rtv on the oil pan gasket.. thought it was a good idea to put a double roller in by milling the drive spline for the oil pump down on the geared end.. totally fucked all of the wiring.. epoxied the front main seal into the oil pump.. I could go on forever. Don't trust a PO. It has taken us thousands of dollars to undo all of the POs mistakes. That doesn't even include the engine. We're only just now starting the process of actually RESTORING the sunrader. Take it as a cautionary tale. Be very careful when dealing with rigs this old and don't believe anything a seller says.
But yeah, I'm with @WME (who is 1,000,000x more experienced than I am, for the record) on this one. If the crank hasn't been turned or replaced, the block punched over (necessitating new pistons), new rods, bearings etc at the *very least*, consider it trash. A head can always be rebuilt on the cheap, but once you get into the block dollar signs will flash before your eyes like lightning bolts. And that's before you pay anyone to remove and install the engine if you don't have the hoist, space, and know-how.
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16 minutes ago, markwilliam1 said:
Just the dreaded click Linda. The starter is getting power. Turn the key again and it starts. I'm concerned about being on the road in the boonies with no cell coverage and it won't start. 256 way beyond me...don't know how to bypass whatever switch your referring to but Thanks!
I could have this totally wrong but I'm just going by what I remember from when we rewired the engine, but there's 3 connections on the starter. Two are 0-4awg wire for pos/neg on the battery, and are secured with nuts. then there's a clip connector for the switch, which gets power when you turn the key to start, which opens the circuit on the starter. If there was anything wrong with the ignition switch itself or the wiring, you would know by bypassing the switch and supplying it with power directly, using a piece of wire and a spade connector. You would want to disconnect the ignition coil to prevent it from turning over. Replacing the starter is a pain (there's one bolt that you can't really get to, need to jack it up waaaay high) so if it was me I'd want to rule that out first. But again, I could be wrong. Someone that's more knowledgeable (like @WME ) can chime in.
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Could be the switch is going bad. Bypass it and test it. No idea if it's the same for every year but here's the FSM diagram for my '83
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Just now, linda s said:
Why is it plexiglass
Linda
If it was originally glass, they broke it and replaced it with their crappy DIY window.
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2 minutes ago, linda s said:
Some bent and broken. Not screwing in securely and I have a large rear window for a Sunrader that came with no trim ring. Sooner or later someone is going to need it
Linda S
I would buy that. Mine is a rear dinette and the large plexiglass window is severely warped and covered in paint.
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On 4/22/2017 at 11:36 AM, WME said:
Nooooooo!!
I'm on team "ew" with @WME here. Walmarts are depressing. For all my cheap Made in China needs I go to Amazon.
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47 minutes ago, neubie said:
At one time mr. car was very well equipped, so I would guess the circuit is complete. But where again would one find it? There is a connection to the secondary throttle through these doohickeys and the cruise control stick is properly wired in the dash. I havent checked where it goes beyond the steering column.
It would look something like this:
or this
Don't know where it would be mounted. Follow the wires
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36 minutes ago, WME said:
We go through the reliability/warranty thing every time somebody posts a Harbor Freight generator.
So who here HAS a HF genset?? Who has had problems with it? How many HR on your HF generator.?
I have an 2000w inverter unit and after 3 hr its still good. It is my house backup generator. Doesn't get much use in the summer, but winter power outages are often. I have a manual switch over control panel. It takes about 5 min to hook up the generator and do the switch.
I
I have had 2 HF generators. The first one didn't run. The second one ran for about 10 hours then threw it's rod. I've had other cheap behind chinese generators (like powermax), and none of those lasted longer than 20 hours.
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26 minutes ago, Maineah said:
Yes it does, OK deal but 57 Db is not real quiet and they don't state at what load so I'm guessing 1/4 to 1/2. If you really want quiet you got to pay for it.
Out the nose. You only get sorta-quiet when you get into the $2,000+ range. If I was in the market for a generator I would probably skip over having to replace a harbor freight one multiple times a year and just save that money for a honda or yamaha that will last forever. Still, for those with a super duper tight budget the cheaper ones (800w) can work. Just don't expect them to last longer than a few months.
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On 7/26/2017 at 7:12 PM, WME said:
PCV is simple and yet befuddles a lot of people.
There 2 vent pipes on the valve cover. The front one, just behind the oil fill cap, is the inlet. So you need to plumb a hose the air cleaner so that clean air is feed into the engine.
Plan b is a air cleaner type vent. Some thing like this.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-N-Engineering-62-1420-Universal-Crankcase-Vent-Air-Filter-Chrome-End-Cap-/222491008124?epid=657208889&hash=item33cd7f5c7c:g:c3AAAOSwtGlZAsI9&vxp=mtr
Both setups need the rear vent this is where the PCV valve is installed. A hose should go from the PCV valve to a manifold constant vacuum source.
Installing the air cleaner vent with out the PCV valve, just as a, vent will result in an oil covered engine. No vents at all will cause oil leaks every where.
I don't mean to derail the thread, but.. I thought also functioned as an outlet while under load, since the intake vacuum pressure is lower than the block/head pressure at higher rpms, blowby is forced out of the front inlet. That was my theory anyway. In the regular weber config, the front inlet bypasses the air filter on the carb. Before we rebuilt my 22R there was oil and blowby coming up through the front inlet and into the carb. Maybe that was only hapening because the PO was a moron. The rings were completely buggered, and the deck height on the head was 0.3" under the minimum spec, resulting in a stupid compression ratio. Our machinist said he was surprised that it didn't blow itself up without racing fuel.
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I'm not an expert but I'd say check your shocks and airbags. My sunrader ('83, no airbags) had the same issue, and I when I replaced the shocks, I discovered that the 2 front shocks had completely leaked their hydraulic fluid, meaning that I essentially had no front shocks. I didn't even have rear shocks installed, and I need to have my leaf springs restored. These things are kind of a rough ride but it shouldn't feel like you're rolling on bowling balls. Check over your suspension.
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Wow, that's beautiful, and very well cared for. If I was rich I'd pick it up in a heartbeat.
... What that means if you need to find out who did the rebuild and check their reputation. This is the same as what mods the PO did to the RV you end up with. Some POs are better than others.
Ceiling (SIP) replacement
in Coach ApplianceTech Issues
Posted
Hey Linda! The cabinets are gone. Because of the mold, I stripped the interior down to the fiberglass with the exception of the ceiling. I'll see what I can get done arch wise.