87 Oddy
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Posts posted by 87 Oddy
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Just finished my latest upgrade this week...95 4runner front end!! It want exactly bolt right on but was doable with some finesse and a positive attitude...
Before-during-after shots below :)0
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Ive been working on deleting the factory beat up ugly old tailights with something more modern. I picked up these off ebay for 112$, theyre meant for a late model Jeep Wrangler and i think will look great not to mention other drivers will actually be able to tell when i brake/signal. My question is which way to mount them? The right sidebis the correct position as would be on a Wrangler. The left side is flipped on its side which will be much easier to match the countour of the rv when mounted, i just can't decide which i like better?? As you can see the bondo glass is a work in progress.
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Here it is next to an 8 guage wire..
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Check out the wire that arrived today. its 4/0 Guage from Knu Koncepts. I'm going to use it to hook my batteries up in series, from battery positive to Buspar, and for the inverters. Damn this stuff is beastly. Its OFC and contains 10,000 individual wire strands. Forget about resistance losses, if anything ill have to little resistance!
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I had some great results using Henry's Tropicool 100%Silicone roof material. 2 gallons was more than enough and not a leak since!
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On 4/15/2020 at 8:26 AM, WME said:
Looks good, where do you keep the sewer hose?
Good question, I have it wound up in the driver's side compartment that once had batteries in it
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They did a very nice job, that had to be so much work!
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I picked up this bumper today and I'm seriously considering mounting it on my frame rail extensions as a rear bumper since right now I don't have one, just a trailer. It will give it that unique look I'm going for with this build!
The pics I just have it balancing on the trailer hitch just to get somewhat of an idea what it would look like.
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On 4/11/2020 at 5:29 AM, Derek up North said:
They were an aftermarket accessory. AFAIK, they weren't offered as an option by any of the MH manufacturers. Possibly by Dealers.
Though everyone seems to say they want to buy them, the supplier has said that it took him so long to finally sell the last batch that he won't be ordering any more unless he has prepaid preorders for 25 (50?) sets.
I seem to recall that they used to sell for something like $350/set. When they were available.
That's unfortunate cause I'm sure damn near everyone with steel wheels would like a set, maybe they don't want them 350$ bad?
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I polished my rims today and man I can't say enough good stuff about this metal polish, I've tried every metal polish orielys and autozone have and nothing else compares. It's called White Diamond Metal Polish. Look at that shine!!
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I'm one of the lucky ones I guess, min came with the chrome wheels covers which I think look great especially after I polished them like crazy!
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On 11/9/2019 at 6:03 AM, Maineah said:
Wow close to 400 LB of batteries. I often then go a week or more with no power with 2 Group 24's and a 100 watt panel never had low batteries even when it rains. Replace all of the lights with LED's put an accumulator on the pump, use the stove to cook not a microwave make coffee the same way turn the heat down, a tiny 150 watt inverter will run a computer and charge a phone at the same time etc. Even run a small flat screen TV. You can store a lot more energy in a 20 propane tank than 10 batteries.
You make a valid point about the energy in propane. Im just experimenting for the first time with off grid power production, storage, and monitoring there of. And im enjoying it!
I've got 4 of these 6 volt = 450AH
And 2 of these 12 volt= 280AH
My house converter/charger is the PG 4645 which puts out 45 amps charging, although I've noticed on my surge protector that it's pulling 10 amps from shore power. Does that sound correct? Obviously it can't pull 45 amps from a 20 amp shore circuit I guess it must amplify the charge somehow. I'd love to know how much the batteries are taking in at any one minute. 730 AH/45 amp = 16.2 hrs to charge the whole bank! Im aware that's not how it works and would take longer to get to 100%. That's why I need a good solar setup. Right now I try and run the Predator 2000 2-3 hrs. each day to keep the voltage between 12.2-12.8.
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Also on a side note... My battery bank has gotten out of control in the toyotahome! Im obsessed with how long and how well I can boondock it. I've currently got 4 225ah 6v batteries in series parallel hooked on series with 2 140ah 12v batteries for a total of 6 batteries @ 730ah!
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On 10/27/2019 at 12:24 PM, AtlantaCamper said:
I installed a $25 battery monitor and it's been working great for me. Here's a link to one like the one I have:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/161129449019
Looks like this:
Mine came with a 100A shunt. With these cheap meters you have to make sure it can actually measure/use both charge and discharge current. Some only measure discharge and they are not very accurate. (there are meters very similar to the one I have without the "charging" label/indicator - don't buy one of those). I've been very pleased with mine and I did test the accuracy of the volt meter and current meter and for a $25 it's dang close to correct. Perfectly fine for RV use.
Install is not simple as you have to do the wiring correctly and add the shunt in the correct place to make it work. Instructions that came with it are bad but I found some better ones online. It's not rocket science to use but you do have to take the time to learn how to calibrate it. Periodically you have to reset it to be 100% at fully charged. All that said I find it to be very handy to monitor the battery and read out the current I'm using with individual appliances. It not only tells you how your battery is doing but it helps you ID the devices that are draining it too.
I think the key to finding one that would be functional on the cheap is to make sure it includes a shunt (100A is good), measures both positive and negative (charge and discharge) current and has some decent reviews. For example the one WME linked to seems to fit the bill and I suspect that it will work fine for him when he hooks it all up.
Good recommendations. I have looked at the monitor you posted a pic of and it looks like it would do what I want, it's just so cheap is why I hesitated.
Here's the one Ive decided on. It's brand new from Renogy, I've had nothing but good experiences with them, I had the 200watt solar starter kit on the 87 Oddysey, and im now running their 2000 watt pure sine wave Inverter in the 91 Warrior. It's 89$ on eBay.
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On 10/27/2019 at 6:33 AM, Derek up North said:
Which of the parameters that you list is not met by the one in the photo you posted above?
BTW, can you share the make and model?
No it appears to have them all. That's why I used it as an example of what I need for under 50$. My question is will it be accurate. And what's the difference between that and a 200$ monitor?
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I plan on doing some extended boondocking so I need to know things like ah remaining, percent of charge, time remaining a current consumption.
Is there a battery monitor that will show these things accurately for 50$ or less?
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Does anyone have any Insight as to which particular battery monitor will give you accurate ah, time remaining, % charge, etc. Without spending 300$ for the xantrex battery monitor?
Also will this 35$ one work just as well?
Any info will be helpful, I enjoy this aspect of toyotahome performance upgrades so I will spend the $ if necessary but 300$ is to much for me...
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On 9/8/2019 at 2:34 PM, AtlantaCamper said:
Maybe check out the process I recently used to seal a front window:
You should look into getting a new rubber seal first, but if that's not a good option then a sealing job is appropriate.
I really like my Fantastic Fan in the roof. I have a second one that is an 'indoor' version that hangs in the window. I use these two fans to do my night time air flow/venting. Quiet and low battery usage. They are a bit on the expensive side but they work better than the other options.
These are great, concise instructions. If you follow these instructions then you will have no issues with leaking. This is the same basic procedure I used to put it in and it's never leaked.
Yes, very straight and to the point. Make sure you take your time with each step as you will be glad you did later. You can basically follow these instructions by username WME for anything that requires putting holes in the roof.
1. Removal of ALL old material, clean with alcohol.
2. Heavy and complete coverage with butyl tape.
3. Screw down and heavy complete coverage with self leveling lap sealant, around every edge and screw head.
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I have the same Kohler it's loud and stinks but will run the AC and some other things, where the HF inverter generator couldn't keep up with the AC alone. It would start it but trip the breaker after a couple minutes. My muffler needs replacing I'm curious to see what you find? I'm trying to add pics but my uploads have begun failing... -200!
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Check these badboys out that I found on etrailer.com. They are a perfect fit to replace my 91 warriors broken crusty old tail lights. I know these are used on the majority of yotahomes also!!
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Who built the slide out? I'd love to pick his brain. That's all im missing imo. That would give us the little added space that would mean so much to me the girl and our pug.!
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Turbo 4x4! I'm gonna have to insist you post some pics... One day I will boost mine also but not the 3vz- 5vz swap then turbo😀
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Speaking of our Winnebago Warriors check out these decals I had made up! I've got 2 sets up for grabs if anyone is interested pm me. Thís is just the proof but the dimensions are listed.
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I have the same year Warrior, 91 and I can tell you forsure since the previous owner had some sort of mishap that resulted in the awning being torn off. Underneath it right at the edge where roof meets side exists a factory metal studs frame that runs the length of the coach, I know the frame is not entirely made of metal but that part does forsure so I'd guess the same for the other side. That would give you sóme good anchor points and piece of mind holding your panels.
1987 Odyssey Remodel/Update
in Improvement and Do-It-Yourself Projects you have done to Share!
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I finally got a working fan for the bathroom and let me tell you this is the one to get. It does intake or exhaust, 10 speed settings, everything is remote controlled, it even closes when it rains automatically. But tye biggest advantage is the airflow. Its cools the inside very noticably almost instantly. Theres even a LAN and DATA cable plug im assuming to communicate with a 2nd fan to do the whole intake exhaust thing?