redskinman

125,000 Yes it had head gasket update May 19,1998,unknown mileage at that time.

ok thanks. If it turns out it does have a broken valve spring that looks like a lot of money. As you all know I'm not much of a mechanic, so I could be wrong but from researching changing out valve springs the videos I watched showed valve springs pretty easy to get to once valve cover is removed. My engine however looks like valve springs are buried and will probably have to take head off, can anyone confirm or deny this?

ok thanks. Thanks to everyone that's trying to help me. Would you say the best vacuum line to hook vacuum gauge up to would be vacuum hose coming out of brake booster?

So I emailed Skeeter,this is his suggestion: "Before you replace the distributor get a vacuum gauge and hook it up to a direct vacuum outlet then crank it up. If the gauge is real erratic back and forth while running there is a bad or broken valve spring or crack in valve seat." Skeeter So can anyone suggest exactly where I should hook up vacuum pump? thanks

Also if you went back a couple pages and saw how bad my fuel filter was when I took it out I figured it could use some new fuel injs.

I'm not getting code for EGR malfunction anymore since putting on block kit.There probably was a problem with EGR system but apparently it was not the cause of my misfire.Last code I got was code 25 for lean condition,which leads back to fuel injs so thats why I replaced them.I've only put 10 miles on it since replacing injectors but so far check engine light has not come back on. thanks

I dont know what else to do.I'm on 2 forums asking for advice,have tried everything i've been told to check.I've taken it to a garage and If I would have listened to them I would have been out 1100 bucks and it still not be fixed.The way I see it if I take it back to another garage they are going to be guessing like I am{because whatever they say they think it is,they will not guarantee its going to fix the problem} and charging me 5 times more.Just like your post says one garage replaced the whole engine and it still didnt fix the car so I'm not sure what your advice is? Keep paying out the behind to different garages till I find one that gets it right because that seems to be the moral of your story if I'm understanding it correctly? The things I've done to it to try and fix the misfire are all things that needed to be done anyway and so far I'm out around 500 in parts with most of that going to the EGR valve and temp sensor which I'm not even using anymore since I put on the block kit.{need to try and sell those on Ebay I guess} I've ordered the distributor.If that doesnt fix it then i'm done,I will have to let a shop try and figure it out.

Thanks,I didnt know that show was on the air.Skeeter's auto shop is within a mile of my house

Ok thanks So sounds like you think testing distributor is waste of time just to go ahead and buy one and replace it which I guess is what I will do. I don't know what else to do at this point, I've tried everything. If it still has misfire after this I'm going to have to break down and take it to another garage where they will probably over charge me for another misdiagnosis.

Yep.I've said before I've called 4 or 5 garages that deal with toyotas and they did not want to do a valve adjustment,couple of them said if its running fine dont worry about it{it will be good for 2-300,000 miles}.I have not called any toyota dealers yet to see if they would do it.

ok thank you

So what were you charged for valve adjustment? thanks

LOL now tell me what G, G1 and NE stand for

No I cant get to the pigtails. As far as intake runner goes,starting from front of engine the first 3 were black then the next 3 werent.I dont know what holes go to where so I dont know what it means if anything. Looking back at my pics it looks like the first 3 go to left side and last 3 go to right side of engine{but I'm just guessing}.Whether that means anything I dont know,but those 2 sides of cylinders did react differently to timing light. Is there a way to test the distributor with a multimeter?

It is running but to get to fuel rails to hook up the lights I have to take plenum off and unhook fuel lines etc etc so I would not be able to start truck. The injs aren't "new" per se,they are re-manufactured and supposedly been tested. I'm told they should have been checked with meter before installing but too late now.

Noid light? I thought you made that up,I had to google it.I watched a couple quick videos on how to use the noid lights and I dont see how I can use it.The videos I saw you had to start the vehicle to get the lights to work,well theres no starting this vehicle,there's too much stuff not hooked up to be able to test the injs to see if theyre getting a pulse.Doesnt the screwdriver trick tell you the same thing? If you stick screwdriver on inj and put your ear on end of screwdriver and you can hear it clicking,doesnt that mean its getting a pulse?

Not sure what you mean by use a good light on 4? Do you mean pull plug and shine flashlight in hole? I'm done for the day, will try to get back to it Sunday.

Did you have it in timing mode to do this? I hooked my timing light up {not in timing mode} and put pickup on each wire. 1, 3 and 5 had good solid flashing light. 2, 4 and 6 had more like a solid bright light, don't know what that means.

Well I'm proud of myself.got it all back together and it's running.Bad news is still has misfire in cylinder 4,I'm so frustrated right now.It might be running slightly better,but engine is still shaking,pull spark plug wire out of 4 on cap and no change in how its running,but does change on the others I checked.

Ok was able to get a fork with one prong on it and pull out o-ring that was stuck in hole. I did manage to break old gasket,the old gasket I was expecting to have to scrape off but it comes right off,should I put a bead of silicone gasket on intake and then put gasket on or just do it like the other one was? thanks

Ok I've pulled fuel rail,1 inj doesnt have o-ring around it,I assume it's still in the hole but I'm afraid to dig around in there for fear I'll screw something up.I tried fitting new inj in same hole but it doesnt fit good.The o-rings on new injs do not look like the ones on old injs.Old injs kind of pop in hole but new injs you do not feel that"pop" when sticking them in hole.

Well this is where I'm at right now.Have plenum off,went ahead and changed pcv valve although old one still rattled,I think thats a sign it still worked? 3holes on intake look black and 3 look pretty clean,I have no idea if thats the way its supposed to be.Gasket looks almost brand new,nothing broke in removing plenum I see no reason to change it unless convinced otherwise.

Are you going to make a youtube video? That would be cool if you did

Well it was supposed to rain last Wed and be nice Sunday {today} but it turned out the opposite. I made other plans for Wed because I thought it was gonna rain. It has rained all day today but it lightened up enough to let me work on it some. I have everything removed from plenum, its ready to be taken off but not going to attempt it today, hopefully next Wed.

Following this thread.Good job on finding the shims for 5 bucks each.I've had a hard time finding anyone that wants to do a valve adjustment,and I'm in a big city! one shop didnt want to do it because of one of the things you pointed out.They didnt want the truck taking up shop space while they waited for shims to come in.