redskinman

Quick update. I received fuel injs in mail,couldn't do it this weekend and rain is forecast for my next 2 days off, hopefully that will change.

This build I wanna see! Good luck!

How many gaskets do I need? Dont I just need 1? That set of injs comes with a gasket

Well I have ordered some fuel injs http://www.ebay.com/itm/261228448791?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Gonna try and do it myself.Think I will try and do it like this guy did in this thread,looks like he didnt even undo the throttle body. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/1177857-3vz-fe-flamethrower-injector-install.html

On to the leak down test.Had pretty much the same leakage shown on gauge for all cylinders,30-40%,I got different readings depending on how quickly I could get hoses coupled together without air escaping. So the main thing to come out of this test that I didnt get the last time is this time I heard where the air was escaping from.Cylinders 2,3,5 and 6 I could hear air escaping when I took off oil cap to the engine.Could not hear anything from 4 or 6.I thought I might have heard a little from 4 but now I think it was my imagination.So what does that mean? I dont know if that means head gasket or something else or maybe thats normal,I'm reading where a small amount is normal.Even with me being able to hear air coming out its not like the gauge was moving past the initial mark,maybe if I kept it hooked up for a long time it might have eventually moved past 30-40%.And you have to remember,on this Harbor Freight tester 30-40% is still in the acceptable range,with a different tester like a snap on 30-40% would be really bad. I filmed my test and hope to have it edited and be on youtube by tonight,unfortunately I'm not much better as a video editor then mechanic

Excellent catch! I had ordered 8 denso k16r-u plugs from advanced auto.Well that plug that is all messed up is a Denson pk20tt that was in a k16r-u box,wtf advanced auto? Would 1 wrong plug cause it to do that? I'm 99% sure I gapped all those plugs so I dont know how that gap got so big. As for moving #4,I did not move it before I drove it last night or today because when I did the test Wed that plug looked brand new,it had 0 miles on itonly run time on it was from starting truck in the driveway.I did move it to cylinder 6 after test today.

ok put 75 miles on truck last night.Check engine light came on,its flashing code 25,which I believe is lean condition. Took truck for short spin this morning and pulled plugs to get ready for leak down and found something disturbing. Spark plug1,2,5 and 6 looked fine,spark plug 4 was dark and had some oil on it like before,but sparkplug 3 is what is freaking me out.The gap in it was huge compared to others,it had a growth sprouting up from center electrode,and ground electrode had a round indention in it,wtf? On to the leak down

Yes I did.I used a balloon attached to compression tester hose{without gauge attached}so when the balloon started to fill up with air I knew I was on compression stroke,then I would stick screwdriver in and stop at its highest point. I am going to take this tester back to HF and exchange it this morning and see if i get different results when I test it tomorrow. Also if fuel inj is bad,shouldnt I be getting a code for this? I have had this misfire the whole time but only codes have been for EGR malfunction,and first place I took it to also said it was reading a code for a lean condtion,but 2nd shop never mentioned that code. I havent put any miles on it since putting on the block kit.When I get home from work today I'm going to take it for a spin and put at least 50 miles on it,see if I get check engine light to come on and then I'll see how spark plugs look tomorrow.

Yeah I worded that wrong,like you said it does let me know it is working{or trying to work}but i still did not find the problem.I'm still not wording it right.I was hoping I would not hear any clicking sounds so I would have that "aha" moment and know that was the reason for the misfire,but since it was clicking I didnt get that moment.I know it could still be a plugged inj.

It's an automatic.So if that's true then maybe that Harbor Freight tester is crap.Like I posted,first time I checked cyl 4{with truck in gear} got less than 10% leakage.When I came back and tried it again with truck not in gear it had 40% leakage so somethings not right.

Ok so I did the leak down test yesterday but I believe I screwed the pooch and I didnt realize it till after I had put everything back together and I was too tired and disgusted with myself to start over,will tackle it again Sunday weather permitting. So I tested cylinders 2,4,and 6 first.For the first 3 cylinders I had truck in gear with parking brake on.Then I took a lunch break and when I did the other 3 cyl I forgot to put truck in gear like I had the other test,this is where I think I pooched it. So first cyl I tested was 4,where I thought I had the misfire.I did the test multiple times on each cylinder,it seemed like i would get a different reading depending on how fast I could get them coupled together.This Harbor Freight tester looks like it works a little differently then the other testers I have seen on youtube.At 40% leakage it still says that is moderate. So cylinder 4 tested under 10 % 3 times. Cylinder 2 I got readings of,10,20,and 18 Cylinder 6 I got readings of 25,30,and 30. Then took lunch break Came back,forgot to put truck back in gear. Cylinder 5-40,38,35 Cylinder 3-34,40,45 Cylinder 1-40,40,didnt do a 3rd test So after these other readings were so much higher then the first 3 I went back and checked cyl 2 and 6 again and got readings of 40%,a lot different then the first readings when I had truck in gear. At no point did I ever hear any air leaking anywhere.I checked tailpipe,looked for bubbles in radiator,heard no air coming out of dipstick tube. But I did forget to take oil cap off and listen there,and I listened for air at throttle body but forgot to open intake and listen.

This is what someone told me on toyotech forum after seeing pics of the plug out of # 4 " You have ash deposited, that shows it is/was firing at least some at one point. It's dark and chunky not dark and sooty, that means oil not over fueling. bottom third of the ground strap is still shiny, that means it's not been ran up to higher speed or maybe its not combusting more than half of what it's given at WOT. Pretty typical of a leak at the valve stem.. It looks like the electrode might be bent, anybody else seeing that(?), that's not a denso feature that I am aware of.. Wondering if you can get any garbage out of that cylinder.. I would pull the computer fuse, the #4 plug, hook up jumper cables to another running engine, hold a clean white catch rag to #4 and crank the bejebus out of it... Or put a bore scope down it if that's more hillbilly than you have in you.. "

Oh ok,I had no clue what you were talking about. Turns out #4 inj is under throttle body,I cant get to it to test with meter but putting screwdriver up to it and listening I can hear the clicking sound so thats not good,doesnt help me find the problem.I'd feel a whole lot better about it just being the inj if it passed a leakdown test on that cylinder.I think I'll probably end up buying the Harbor Freight tester and testing it myself,I'm leery of believing anything a shop tells me at this point. A guy on the toyotech forum said when his last head gasket let loose a cold compression test still showed less than 1-2 psi variation, small enough to not be measured on the Napa gauge I have.He had 120 psi at #1 and around 125 on the rest, with a dead battery, the gasket failed between #2 #3

??? I'm confused,I dont know what you mean am I really that desperate? Who said anything about buying a used injector? I am just hoping it's a bad inj and nothing else.As far as how much they cost the issue would be I dont have the skills to replace them myself.

Thats what I am hoping it is

Ok thanks,thats good news.I'm trying to eliminate all the things it could possibly be.Compression in all the cylinders was in 140-150 range

I have been googling this but cannot find a definitive answer.Since cylinder #4 seems to be where misfire is coming from but compression is good,does that eliminate the need for a leak down test? Or is leak down test only neccessary when compression is bad? Is it possible I might have a bad valve even if compression is good? thanks

thanks for the responses,will have to wait till Sunday when I have the day off and see what I can come up with

Heres a pic of everything I took off for the block kit,and a pic of my multimeter

Good idea,I might be doing this in the future.

Thank you

Well I dont trust the shop that gave me the low quote on the valve adj after letting them work on it for something else.Called4 shops today specializing in foreign cars like toyota. ! said they dont work on anything older then 96,still waiting to hear back from 1 other one.The 2 that did call me back tried heavily to talk me out of it.One said toyota doesnt carry the shims anymore and if they could do them it would be expensive,he didnt even give me a quote.He said unless its having issues dont worry about it,he had 4 runner with 230,000 miles and never adjusted valves. Other shop told me basically the same thing,they could do timing belt but would have to send it out to machine shop to do the valve adj that they didnt have proper tools to do it.

Thanks for the tips,I will have to get back to fuel inj another time,I wanted to finish the egr block kit today.Pain in the butt to get to some of those nuts but anyway,made this youtube video to see if I am putting the caps where i am supposed to.It came with 3 small caps and 1 large,although their diagram only shows using 2 small caps. http://www.lcengineering.com/LCInstructions/3VZ EGR_delete.pdf

Fuel inj"s have been my #1 suspect this whole time{especially after seeing all the dirt in fuel filter I removed} but to test and or replace is above my pay grade,hence why I've tried seafoam and the Berrymans 3 step fuel inj cleaning kit.Whether thats the problem I dont know.