ChairmanMeow7

I have a 1986 Winnbago with the 22-RE engine. According to that article on isolators , when upgrading to a solid state isolator , I would need the 4 post solid state isolator. Both the Toyota dealer and the person (company that rebuilds alternators) I bought my re-built alternator from told me it is internally regulated. BUT , when I asked the Toyota dealer if I should be using a 3 or 4 post model they said they were not sure and I should contact an RV center for more advice. I did contact the person who sold me the rebuilt alternator and he told me that I needed the 3 post model solid state isolator (when upgrading from a mechanical one). I asked if he was sure and he ASSURED me he was. I asked him if the white wire that was on the center post of the old mechanical isolator was the one to connect to the center post of the new 3 post solid state isolator. He ASSURED me this WAS the wire from the alternator , as he said that all Toyota alternators used a white wire (for this). Now here's where it get's a little crazy. I KNOW I should have done some more homework and contacted Vanner (the manufacturer of my isolator) and CONFIRMED that I needed the 3 post model. But , seeing how I had already purchased , and then installed (but DIDN'T hook up the wires) the 3 post isolator BEFORE I read this article about isolators , I figured well , the guy who sold me the alternator sounds quite certain of himself , so why not hook it up and give it a try. I did , started the vehicle and was reading about 14 or so volts on BOTH posts leading to the batteries. So I figure all is well. I start driving down the road and I get about 10 mins from home and I smell the smell of burning wood inside my MH !! I pull over and open the back of the coach and see some smoke !!! I can't locate the source for the life of me. I open the cupboards and I see smoke coming out from some of them ( I ESPECIALLY notice it in the cupboard above the sink). I open a couple of the windows and vents , and try FRANTICALLY to locate the source , to no avail. I open the hood , feel the isolator , the wires coming from it , the battery (under the hood) and none of them feels unusually warm. So I rush back to the coach and to my relief the smoke seems to be dissapating slowly but surely (as I was getting about ready to call 911). I spent about 15 mins trying to laocate the source of the smoke , or look for a burned spot in all the access doors , under th coach , but couldn't find a thing. So I disconnect the isolator and slowly drive down the road , keeping my nose open for the slightest hint of the smoke smell. I thought I smelled it again , but when I stopped again , I saw no more smoke in the coach , so maybe it was just a lingering smell. After about 10 mins I started up again and AS SOON as I started , both me and my GF swore we smelled it again. But , I left the engine idling , and a little while after I started up we no longer smelled it. I CAUTIOUSLY went to Home Depot and bought an extra fire extinguisher and smoke/co alarm which I had been planning on installing anyways. I installed this as soon as I got out of the store. So I asked GF if she wanted to try and continue on our 100 mile or so journey we had planned or heading back home (as we we only about 15 mins away). After much debate we decided to press forward EVER so CAUTIOUSLY. Needless to say , we had NO more problems on our 100 mile (one way) excursion and back. But that was after I disconnected all the wires from the isolator. There is another (at least one I know of) possible source of the smoke. I was smoking (and yes , I am quitting VERY soon , hopefully for GOOD this time) , and I went to flick the ash off my butt out the window. The butt got away from me and out of the corner of my eye I seen it go flying up in the air and I could NOT tell for sure if it had blown back into the cab and possibly into the coach. But , try as I may I saw NO burned spots anywhere in , under or on the MH. But we both swore we smelled the distict smell of burning wood....... This has truly got me puzzled , becuase if it were due to the isolator shouldn't I have blown a fuse or tripped a breaker ? And wouldn't I be smelling burned plastic (either in addition to or in place of) the burned wood smell ???? This has me puzzled , but I DO plan on contact Vanner (the isolator manufacturer) to find out which one THEY reccomend. And , I realize something MUST be wired wrong , as the engine battery seems to continue to hold a charge despte it NOT being hooked up to the isolator (which tells me it has to be hooked to the alternator some how). And I know when hooking up the isolator you are supposed to disconnect the wire from the alternator to the battery. But I can NOT seem to locate this wire. All I see coming from the positive post is a large wire that goes into the breaker box (and I realize this must be to power everthing in the engine and cab) and a smaller wire that I had hooked up to the #1 battery terminal of the isolator. This is the same wire that went to one of the large posts on my old 3 post mechanical isolator. I realize something is wrong here. Can someone help point me in the right direction or give me an idea of where they think that burnt wood smell (and smoke can from) ?????

I found this E-Book on the web. It's about our Toy MH's. Does anyone own it or have they read it ? I am considering buying it , BUT (and this is a BIG butt) , I just got burned on some "free" stuff off the net and now I have a BUNCH of unwanted charges popping up on my credit card. Anyone know if this is LEGIT ? I am always just a little leary (ESPECIALLY now) of people who won't let you pay by check or M.O. .... http://www.thorntonnetsales.com/toyotamotorhome/

I can still turn the end of the compressor (although the bearings do feel as though they are scraping a little bit) , so I guess that's a good thing. Hopefully there isn't metal chunks inside the system... But I guess I still should have a pro evaluate if it needs flushing or whatever. Honestly , I am not even certain that the compressor is "shot" , but I am going by the person I bought it from who owned it briefly before selling it to me. He got it from an estate and it had been sitting for some time. He said he removed the belt from the compressor as it was squealing (or making some kind of noise if I remember correctly). So from everyones opinions , it sounds like I shouldn't attempt this one myself. If I had realized this was not a DIY job , I probably would have just took it in and had it checked out before shelling out for a new compressor and drier. Oh well , if I don't need it , I will keep it for a spare and will probably need it someday. I have had my Toy a little over a year now and have been having a blast with it ! I have NO plans of selling anytime in the forseeable future. I only wish I had gotten on sooner !!

I just bought a remanufactured compressor for the AC on my 1986 22-RE engine as the clutch appears to be shot. Are there any tips anyone can give me about replacing this ? I was told the lines SHOULD be flushed before installing the new compressor. What do you use to flush them with ? Also , how much oil and R-134 should be added to the system after the compressor is installed ? Lastly , I got a reciever drier with the compressor. The warranty for the compressor said I MUST install a new drier for the warranty to be valid. I don't see the reciever drier anywhere. Where is it located on a 1986 22-RE engine ?

I am wondering if there is a specific place on the forum to post an item for sale ? I have a used Nova-Cool marine refrigerator-freezer unit. It runs off 12 volt DC , has the compressor , thermostat and control (which also reads the battery voltage and SHOWS the temp) , 2 evaporator plates and the cooling lines. The beauty of these units is they can run (and cool) at up to a 30 degree angle. As you probably know our RV fridges need to be CLOSE to level ( about 3 degrees or so) , or they don't cool properly. This unit also has a low amperage draw , about 1.5 amps (I believe) , so it won't drain your battery much. My old RV fridge was not working , and rather than putting in a new cooling unit , I was going to convert it over to this system (and use my exististing refrigerator box). But , I really don't need that large of a frige , as usually it is just me , or me and my GF for weekend trips. So , I decided just to put a small mini-fridge in and run it off an inverter. From what I understand , Nova-Cool are quality units , with long life expectancy. They get MUCH colder than a regular RV fridge (because they are compressor driven) , and was mentioned earlier , they can (and do) continue to cool at up to a 30 degree angle. This would be a good unit for someone who needs a larger fridge , or needs to run it for extended periods. I was actually planning on putting one of the evaporator plates on the bottom of the (small) freezer compartment , and the other in the large fridge compartment (where I would also put the thermostat). I figured that once I got the fridge compartment to the proper temp I wanted , the freezer compartment SHOULD freeze as it is much smaller and it would have the same size evaporator plate (I was actually going to lay it on the bottom of the freezer and put my frozen food on top of it). I bought this unit on E-Bay and I am basically looking to get my money back as I don't think I will be needing it. If anyone is interested , please contact me or I will eventually end up re-listing it on E-Bay. If this is NOT the proper place to post this could you (admin.) PLEASE let me know , and put this post in the proper place. Thank You !!

I am planning on putting a mini fridge in as well. I bought one from Wal-Mart for $98 and I got an 800 watt (continuous) , 1600 watt surge inverter from Trravel Centers of America. The inverter cost $49 , but I got a $20 mail in rebate coupon , so the inveter only cost $29. Not a bad deal , and I think TA is running this sale through the month of June. I also installed a 160 amp alternator (when mine went) , so it shouldn't be a problem keeping the battery charged while I am running. I plan to wire the inverter into my converter , so when I plug into shore power , it won't drain the battery. Actually on 2nd thought , I should just plug it directly into an AC outlet when plugged into shore power , thus eliminating the need to run the inverter constantly. Yeah , that's a better idea.... I'm also considering installing a solar panel to help keep the battery charged when I am parked. But , I usually don't stay parked for more than a day , so I don't think I'll have a problem with battery drain.

Are you considering upgrading to a 6 lug rear end ? I just saw one go on E-Bay for a $168 (in PA). Of course it would probably have cost a few $$$ to ship to CA . I wanted to get on here and post a link to it while the auction was still active , but I was having trouble with my IP and I couldn't log onto the net. I am on E-Bay quite a bit , and if I see another one come up , I WILL post a link to it on here , so some of you can bid on it if you want.

Thanks moosepucky ! From what I can gather , it appears that since I have an 86 Toyota , I will need an isolator with a 4th terminal for excitation, correct ? I wish I had known this (and came on here and asked) BEFORE I got the solid state isolator with 3 posts. I figured since the old mechanical one had 3 posts , then the new solid state one should have 3 posts as well. I am reading that correctly about NEEDING one with a 4th post for excitation , correct ???? (Please forgive me if I sound repititious , but I get a bit confused at times).

What's the differance between the 3 post and 4 post solid state isolators (and what is the "exciter") ? I had the old mechanical style with 2 large posts and 1 small post on my 1986 Winnie. I just purchased a solid state one with 3 posts. The 3 posts are marked battery 1 , battery 2 and alternator. I'm not sure what wire to tap into to hook to the alternator post. I ASSUME I shouldn't connect the small white wire that was on the small post of my old mechanical isolator to the alternator post , CORRECT ? (If so , do I just cut this wire off and tape it up ??) And , if I do need to tap into a wire from the wiring harness on the alternator , what color is it (I don't see any of them marked , as in the schematic). Also , what gauge wire should be used if I DO need to tap into a wire from the alternator. Also , I did briefly (I know , I probably SHOULDN'T have done this without thoroughly reading this post 1st) connect the white wire from the small post of the old isolator to the alternator post on my new solid state isolator. It DID show about 14-15 volts on both battery posts of the new isolator. Will I damage the isolator if I run it like this , or does it sound like it should be OK , since both battery posts are showing about 14-15 volts (that's WITHOUT the loop connectors attached to the isolator that hook up to either battery) with the engine running ??

I've been having the same (intermittant) problem with my '86 Winnie. I see the RV store sells something you add to the holding tank that's supposed to clean the sensors. I think I am going to give that a shot. Does anyone know how well this stuff works ?

Hi Toyotavan and welcome to the forum ! For what it's worth , I bought a 86 Winnie with the 22-RE engine last year. It had 43,000 on it and I paid $4800 for it. The person I bought it from did some wordwork above the upper bunk. I think he tried to either conceal or repair some water damage. It still leaked after I got it , but I replaced the vent above the bunk and sealed it up with some butyl tape. I also sealed over the "seam" in the roof with special tape I got at home depot that was made for metal roofs and later sealed all around the vents and seams with some lap sealant (available at RV stores). NO more leaks !! I had to put an alternator on it shortly after I got it (it kept eating belts on the way home !) but I think that was due to the fact that this had been sitting for some time , to my understanding. So I upgraded to a heavy duty 160 amp alternator. Other than that , I haven't had to do anything to the engine and I have over 51,000 on it now (I put about 8000 miles on it in the last year !). As you probably know , these 22-R and 22-RE engines are practically bulletproof. I have heard them described as "the best darn internal cumbustion engine EVER built" ! I don't think you can go wrong with that engine as long as it had (even somewhat) regular maintainance. At 86,000 that engine is probably just broken in. I talked to someone who has about 110,000 on theirs and he said it runs better than it ever did ! I also spoke to someone who had a V-6 and he said this is his 3rd Toy MH. He said his last one had the 22-RE engine in it , and he had 304,000 on it when he sold it , and it still ran decent (for that many miles). He said he used Castrol and changed it every 3000 or less. I have been using Castrol and changing mine every 2500 or so , and I expect mine to run a LONG time. As far as the coach , I've had to do some things , but this is normal from what I understand. I am still working on getting my water heater functioning properly , and the fridge still doesn't work , but I am either going to install a dorm fridge and run it off an inverter (and maybe install a solar panel as well) , or convert it it a marine compressor driven unit (that runs off 12 volt DC). The only reason I haven't done so yet , is I am not in that big a hurry , as I just use an ice cooler for the mean time. It suits my needs quite well , but I do plan on working fridge in the near future. All in all I am VERY happy with my purchase and these little campers are a LOT of fun and perfect in size for a couple of people , like me and my GF. I'm sure you could easily bring along a child or 2 , or even a 3rd adult if you needed to as well. Bottom line , I doubt you will have much problems with the 22-RE. You may (or will eventually) have to do some maintainance and repairs in the coach. I believe this is normal , especially when dealing with an older RV. Just like was said earlier , owning a used RV , boat or airplane requires regular maintainance , and repairs. Just keep that in mind and keep us posted on how you made out !

It seems the guy at the RV place was right. He said he didn't want to fire up the water heater for fear of fumes in the coach. After I had it lit for 45 minutes or so , I went in the coach to check the hot water. It WAS good and hot. In the process I AGAIN noticed a smell , and the only way I could desribe it is as "incomplete combustion" or something of that nature. I had a fire/co alarm form my house sticking out of the cupboard , so the vents to the sensors could sniff out any CO. It didn't go off , but when I moved it I kept getting a warning (mine talks) saying " WARNING , CARBON MONOXIDE " .. I ended up putting it on the bunk with the vents on the quilt , and it still kept going off for a few minutes. Needless to say I opened the vents and door and got the heck out of there !!!! Now I don't understand what the guy at the RV place saw that he appeartantly knew that I could end up with fumes in the coach. The water heater looks fairly new (although I am almost certain it is ORIGINAL). What would cause it to leak fumes into the coach ??

I found that the gas line to the pilot light was plugged up.I blew it out with a compressor and it fired right up. I am getting some strange smell (not sure if I would call it a less than clean burning gas smell ??) with the main burner going.Maybe because it probably hasn't been used in a long time ? Or I am wondering if the guy at thr RV place was not pulling my leg , when he said he didn't want to light the water heater for fear of fumes in the coach. I'm not sure if he was just trying to sell me a new water heater. Should there be ANY smells when the burner is working properly ? I did put a CO detector in the coach , temporarily hanging out of the cupboard , but I DO plan to get a propane/co detector and install it pronto. WHAT color should the flame be on the main burner ? Mine is mostly blue with some yellow around the edges. Is this what it SHOULD look like if it is burning CLEANLY (and PROPERLY) ???

Where do I find the tag listing the GVW on my coach ? I don't recall seeing anything inside the doors.

So even if I could find the 5 lug to 6 lug adapters for the front , they really don't help safety wise , correct ? I was going to ask how they could possibly help , as you still only have 5 lugs holding the adapter on (instead of the wheel). I am still wondering if my rig sounds like it is SERIOUSLY overloaded. I posted this question in about 3 differant threads , but have not recieved any answers yet. My 86 Winnie weighs in at 6800 lbs !!!!!! And that's will full propane and water , empty holding tanks , no generator and NO passengers !!

Glad to hear no one was seriously hurt ! This has really got me thinking..... I do have the 6 lug rear axel in my 86 Winnie , but it still has the 5 lugs on the front. It sounds like mine was upgraded , no ? Now I am worried about the front 5 lugs. I understand these were not subject to recall , but that Toyota did make a 5 lug to 6 lug adapter for the front. I had my Winnie weighed at a local landfill last year when I bought it , and with full water and propane (empty holding tanks and NO passengers) it weighed in at a WHOPPING 6800 lbs. !!! Does this sound like my rig is SERIOUSLY overloaded ?? I am going to try and search for the 5 lug to 6 lug adapter , but I hear they are quite hard to come by. Anyone know where I may find one ?

Sutton Ma is about 40 miles from where I live in Stafford CT. What do you say we meet halfway , like at the Wal-Mart in Sturbridge MA ? You'de take the I-84 exit off the MA pike and take RT 20 east. Wal-Mart will be about a 1/2 to 1 mile on the left. Will this work ?

Hello Mazdax605 and welcome to the forum !' I live on the CT-MA border (Stafford Springs CT-Wales MA). I bought a 1986 Winnie with 43,000 miles on it and the 22-RE 4 cylinder engine last year. I just turned 50,000 and haven't had to do anything to the motor than replace the alternator and the battery isolator (and the isolator may not be a true motor issue , and I may have fried the old one when I upgraded to a HD alternator). From all I have heard (both on here and elsewhere , these Toyota 4 cylinder engines are bulletproof !!). The Winnies are VERY heavy and I have been told by others on this forum that they are the heaviest of all the coach manufacturers for the Toy based motorhomes. I weighed mine on the local landfill scale last year and it weighed in at a whopping 6800 lbs. (no passengers , full tank of gas and water , holding tanks empty). I am wondering if my rig is SERIOUSLY overloaded , ESPECIALLY given it only has 5 lugs on the front tires and not 6. This makes me believe that the rear end was upgraded to the SAFER 6 lug rear end. If you do decide on the 4 cylinder , and it is 1986 or earlier , BE SURE the rear end has 6 lugs on it !! The 5 lug rear ends are prone to axel failure ! Also , besides having 6 lugs on the rear dualies , be sure there is a large hub that sticks out in the center of the wheel as well. I have heard that some folks have had custom fabricated 5 lug to 6 lug adapters (but they wont have the large hub in the center) , to make you think that the rear end has been upgraded. I hear it is quite uncommon , but not unheard of. Do NOT trust these micky-moused 6 lug rear ends , as they do not have the CRITICAL extra set of bearings that the TRUE full-floating 6 lug rear end has. This is only an issue on the pre 1986 models (from what I understand) and SOME of the 1986 models (they switched to the heavy duty rear end sometime in 1986). I am very happy with my purchase , and I paid $4800 foir mine , and have been told (by many) I got a pretty good deal. It is (was) in decent shape but not without a few issues in the coach. I hope you are handy when it comes to fixing your own things , as it is not cheap to bring these to an RV dealer , for even minor jobs. It's kinda like owning a boat , as marine technicians charge a fortune as well. I take frequent trips up the northern NE coast , and going up the grades on the MA pike and I-95 , I set the cruise to about 60-65 , but (mine has OD) , I have to push the OD button and take it out of OD on the grades. I drop down to around 50-55 MPH , but haven't had any problems , as long as I stay in the slow lane. I am in NO hurry to get anywhere when I am in my Toy. I only get about 14-15 MPG on mine and I have heard this is a bit low for the 4 cylinder engine , but again I am driving a VERY heavy rig. Most people say they are getting 16-18 with the 4 cylinder engine (and pretty close to the same with the 6 cylinder). As far as what engine to choose , I beleive some of the late 80's and definately the early 90's Toys were available with the 6 cylinder engine. I heard there is not much of a gas milage differance , so if you want more power , it may be the way for you to go. From what I hear the 6 cylinder is a darn good engine , but the 22-R and 22-RE 4 cylinder engines are supposed to be about the best darn internal combustion engines ever built. They ARE bulletproof. Change the oil regularly (I use a severe service schedule of 2500 miles) and use a good quality oil (I use Castrol , and hear it is an excellant oil) and it will run a LONG , LONG time. I talked to one Toy owner who had the V-6 and he said this was his 3rd. Toy based MH. His last one had the 22-RE (4 cylinder) engine like mine and he sold it when it had 305,000 on it and it was still running decent. If reliability and long lasting are your thing and you can live with it not being all that powerful on the grades , then the 4 cylinder is the way to go. I had it up in NH for a trip to the White Mts. a few weeks ago. I dropped down to 25-30 on some of the LONG steep grades , but it got me there and back (I didn't actually drive up MT. Washington , though). I just pulled over every once in a while if I had a line of cars behind me and let them pass. I also stopped at some of the scenic overlooks to do this , and shut the engine off , to cool off (not that it was overheating , but it was running a little hot). If you are interested in checking mine out , let me know and we can arrange something some day. I hope this helps !!

My propane/ac fridge is not working. The coild get hot but it doesn't cool down. I may just need to take out the cooling unit (or whole fridge) and turn it upside down a few times as some of you have mentioned. I think my Toy had been sitting out back of someones house for several years before I bought it last year. I am considering 2 options. I have just rececently purchased a used Novacool 12 volt marine compressor unit with 2 evaporator plates for about $400 on E-Bay. I like the idea that they supposedly get colder than the amonia absoption fridges , and also get cool faster. But the biggest advantage is they will continue to cool if even off by as much as 30 degrees of being level. I understand the amonia type fridges HAVE to be within 3 degrees of being level to operate properly. I am considering retrofitting the Novacool unit to my existing fridge box , by drilling a hole in the back fo the fridge for the evaporator lines , and then filling in the hole with some of that spray insulation. Does this sound like it would work ? I understand the Novacool draws 5 amps max , so with my heavy duty 130 amp alternator I should be fine when on the road. And , I also plan on wiring the compressor into my converter box , so when I am on shore power , it won't drain the battery. I don't stay parked for more than a day when traveling , so hopefully it won't drain the battery too much when I am parked and not plugged into shore power. How long will a typical deep cell power something that draws 5 amps ? The second option I am considering , is I also bought a small 3.4 cubic foot dorm fridge. It says it draws 5.6 amps max , and 1.3 amps running power. I was able to power it up off my 500 watt (800 wat peak) power inverter. It ran for about 2 hours (it got real cold within an hour , like 32 degrees in the fridge section , so I had to set the thermostat down) off a small 12 volt gel cell , so I am assuming it will run much longer off the deep cycle battery in my coach. And when I am running , I shouldn't have to worry about battery drain as the HD alternator should handle it. I THINK* it should be OK as long as I am not parked too long without plugging into shore power , or starting and running the engine. Why is it it seems like no one has explored this option ? Do these small fridges simply not stand up to the bumps etc. of being in an RV ? Or do they also not cool properly if not (nearly ?) completely level ?? The small fridge I bought at Wally World says "not just for home use anymore. Can be used in boats , RV's etc. " Does this sound like a vialble option for someone who travels once in a while , and doesn't need a whole lot of fridge space ? I also like that if I AM* able to install and run this small dorm fridge , it will save quite a bit of weight , as I will take my old fridge and cooling unit out completely and put in this little 60 lb. or so fridge. My 21 ft. Winnie weighed in at a staggering 6800 lbs , WITHOUT passengers ! I think I need to do whatever I can to lighten it up a bit !

I weighed my 1986 21ft. Winnie (with roof air) at the local landfill last fall and with a full tank of gas , propane and fresh water (holding tanks empty) I came up with a STAGERING 6800 Lbs. !! The scale was just intalled about a month earlier , so I am wondering if anybody else has a 21ft. Winnie and if they got a similar weight ? I realize from an earlier post that someone on here replied to me that Winnies were VERY , VERY heavy. But , at 6800 lbs. (and that's without a generator , or passengers or light amount of gear) , am I SERIOUSLY overloaded ??? Also , I do have the 6 lug rear axel , but only 5 lugs in the front. Does that mean that this had the rear axel upgrade done on it ? I also heard something about 5 lug to 6 lug adapters for the FRONT tires. Does it sound like I should DEFINITELY look into these ? Where might I find them (junkyard) ??

I put a memory foam mattress topper on top of my original mattress pads (not they they were in bad shape , as they really looked mint). WOW ! What a differance , me and my GF sleep like a baby in there now. It REALLY made a huge differance ! Maybe some of you may want to look into this ? I guess it would be possible to have it covered as well , but I just put a zip up (waterproof) mattress cover on the foam topper. It may be an option if you can't find any original replacements or you don't want to have some custom made. Especially if you are not going to use the little cutout piece that drops in (I always just go through the coach door to get in the coach). Just a thought.....

The one I am currently looking at is a Yamaha , and it's rated at 2300 watts continuous and 2600 peak. Do you think this will handle ANY Coleman Mach I may have in my Winnie ? (I'm still not sure which model Mach it is. Can someone help me with this and let me know which model the 1986 Winnies came with) ?? The only thing I don't like about this generator I am looking at is it weighs in at 90 Lbs. I am trying to keep the weight down , as I had the Winnie weighed and it came in at close to 7000 Lbs. !! I think I heard (on here) that the Winnies are the heaviest of all the coaches built on the Toyota chassis. I just got back from a trip to the White Mountains in NH and I felt like getting out and pushing up a few of those long grades ! Makes me wish I had opted for the V-6 , but at $4800 with ONLY 43,000 on mine when I bought it last year , I guess I can't complain. I am still "toying" (no pun intended ?) with the idea of finding a nice V-6 for a decent price and maybe selling mine. But , I do like the idea that I have heard the 22-RE described as "the best damn internal cumbustion engine" ever built .......

Does this apply to ALL 22-R and 22-RE engines (regardless of year) ?

I have a Coleman Mach series A/C in my 1986 21ft. Winnebago. I am not sure which Mach it is or if it is the Mini-Mach (does anyone know which A/C came with these) ? I can't recall seeing anything on it other than Coleman Mach. How big of a generator would I need if it were bigger than the Mini-Mach ? Do you think a 2600 watt would work ?

I just made a post about my battery isolator. My original post from a week or so ago was merged with another post (by TurboGreg , I believe). I just posted to the (older) merged thread , but I don't see that thread on the list (and my older per-merger post is down near the bottom). Shouldn't this (new) MERGED post have been moved up in the active threads ?? If anyone gets a chance I would appreciate if they can look at my thread about battery isolator and follow the link to the merged thread , so you can reply. Thank You !!!