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Motordome

Toyota Advanced Member
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Posts posted by Motordome

  1.  I am looking at a couple different shops to do the driveshaft work so in the meantime I worked on my spare tire carrier this weekend. The original unit had a broken cable and I really don't like the way the design works with the camper body. I decided to start from scratch and ripped the old one out

     IMG_1648_zpsk1gjm88d.jpg


    I found some 5/8" threaded rod to use for the mount so I was looking around for a large metal circle to use as a center retainer. I found an old 10" saw blade that had a broken carbide and as luck would have it it already had a 5/8" arbor hole. The blade was a heavy duty unit so the body was about an 1/8" thick. I broke off all the carbides and ground off the teeth. Once this was  
    done I installed it in a jobsite saw and hit it with a grinder while it was running to shape it back to a decent circle.

    IMG_1647_zpssseezyhc.jpg


    I welded up a 1/4" bar with a couple stubby handles. The center nut was replaced with a castle nut

     IMG_1649_zpsqaflgwfv.jpg

    I covered the edge of the blade up with some fuel line with a center split and mounted it in place

    IMG_1651_zpsodmbbljp.jpg

    I still need to drill the rod for a cotter pin but it works pretty good. The weight of the tire provides enough friction on the retainer so you just spin the tire and it threads itself up and down. I will just need to keep the threads greased and it should work great.

    IMG_1653_zpsqmpitqsi.jpg

  2. I started working on the drive shaft situation today. I manage to get the flange off of the Toyota DS which realllllly took an effort. I bolted it on to the pinion and this is what we have

    IMG_1618_zpsa4gp6qcn.jpg

    It's about 1 1/4" or 32 mm so it looks like a DS cut down is in order
    I can move the rear end back but not quite enough to make it all work. Besides that I think the tires are pretty well centered and I don't want to move them.

    IMG_1616_zpsokaftw6s.jpg

     One thing I have to figure out is the u joint set up. According to a chart I found the S10 uses a 1330 u joint but I haven't been able to dig up much info on the Toyota u joint, all I know is that it's a bit smaller. I did find this......


    ujoint_zps4ulrupig.jpg

    If this flange will bolt up then I believe I could use a stock S10 u joint


    On a positive note I was eyeballing the drive shaft angle and it looked fairly straight to me.....I was worried about the offset a little

    IMG_1617_zpsbkmdb50u.jpg

  3. Working on the sway now, I welded some 3/16" plate to the back facing side of each shock mount to support the link bracket.

    IMG_1596_zpsd4pbogpj.jpg

    Then I was able to reuse the Toyota mount after cutting off the bolt tabs. Everything then got blasted and painted

    IMG_1599_zpsb326muqb.jpg
     

    The sway bar got blasted and a few coats of aluminum paint

    IMG_1598_zpsybpmr4kb.jpg

    It should be dry tomorrow morning and I am hoping it will bolt right it. It shouldn't be a problem since I had it in and out about a thousand times during the mock up phase.

  4. The last couple of days have been busy and the camper is now a little closer to being complete

    I started by using my wooden jig to locate the second perch
    IMG_1520_zpsrff9hmwy.jpg

    Then welded it on 

    IMG_1537_zpskbinx2mv.png

    I wanted to re-use the S10 shock mounts but this meant redrilling the ubolt holes to accommodate the Toyota ubolts. I plug welded the existing holes and then redrilled them with my drill press 

    IMG_1557_zpsryx2mwac.jpg

    IMG_1556_zpsaqbs8xdj.jpg


    Sandblasted then painted the hardware

    IMG_1558_zpstvmlkhgk.jpg

    Coated the housing with rust converter

    IMG_1551_zpsegqikd01.jpg


    And in she went which was kind of a pain working alone but once I got it in place it dropped right on the spring dowels and the ubolts fit like a glove

    IMG_1559_zpsekdpd9vs.jpg


    May I present the elusive S10 dually :)

    IMG_1573_zps7h4falup.jpg

    I couldn't resist popping on one of the simulators..sweeet

    IMG_1565_zps6elvbekc.jpg

    IMG_1574_zpscqnnvbfd.jpg

    Lots of work to do such as brake lines,sway bar, air bags and drive shaft but I'm feeling pretty inspired

    IMG_1568_zpsqknz9mqt.jpg

  5. Today started by running around to four different stores to track down a can of primer. Finally Auto Value found me a can and I made it back to the shop around noon

    IMG_1510_zpsl1zacwci.jpg

     

    I used a contour gauge to get the general shape of the tube and started grinding away on my spindle sander

    IMG_1496_zpsyogv2uwb.jpg

    IMG_1499_zps5eeojojq.jpg

    I ended up removing quite a bit of material to get it to fit

    IMG_1509_zpsceif6nwa.jpg

    IMG_1498_zpshzlz0vfb.jpg

    I leveled the tube and set the pinion angle 

    IMG_1497_zpsn06qnpxp.jpg

    IMG_1512_zpsoohawn9l.jpg

    After a couple coats of primer it was finally ready to weld. I welded each side in two passes from the top down and let it cool down in between beads. It looked a little crappy where the two welds met but as they say, "If you can't be a good welder at least be a good grinder". One down and one to go

     IMG_1514_zpsdvhryw6r.jpg

    IMG_1516_zps2fzmqof0.jpg

    IMG_1517_zpssmaxih65.jpg

  6. 6 hours ago, jdemaris said:

    Did you have any trouble with the crush-collar on the pinion?  I bought three for mine before I could find one that was correct.  Even then, I was amazed at how much torque it took to crush it. I had a 3/4 drive rachet with a three foot pipe on it to do the job.

    I didn't remove the pinion just the nut. I marked it's location and took it off with an impact,replaced the seal,pinion nut and finally recrimped it with a chisel. 

  7. I started working on the spring perches this afternoon,

    The first thing I needed to do was reprimand my security detail for sleeping on the job

    IMG_1481_zps82lud89y.jpg

    Next up was to fabricate a jig for the leaf spring dowels. I started out with a straight piece of birch and laid out the holes. Once I got it right I added the offset pieces and finally cut out the center. Surprisingly it is accurate to within .25 mm 

    IMG_1482_zpsxtvtj44x.jpg

    IMG_1495_zpsvuzhsryi.jpg

    I cut off the old perch with a recip saw and started grinding away

    IMG_1484_zpsf2rmk0ku.jpg

     

    IMG_1487_zpsk3i2vlvk.jpg

     

    IMG_1492_zpsjkangna6.jpg

    IMG_1494_zpsqycjny2e.jpg

     

    Tomorrow I am going to pick up some weld through primer and see if I cant get one perch welded in place

  8. 9 hours ago, jdemaris said:

    What happened to the original spring perches? (maybe I missed it somewhere in the posts).

    I find using a spring-scale to set the bearings a waste of time and too subject to erroneous readings.  In the end - all Toyota wants is zero end-play.  No end-play and no to little preload.  That's why in the Toyota manual - at the end - it says there should be no "axial play."   So, it seems they are admitting that even with the spring-scale use - it may be wrong when  done.  

    The original spring perches are still welded to the axle tube...but not for long

    As far as setting the preload on the wheel bearings is concerned I followed the Toyota manual to the extent possible,right wrong or in between. I have come to realize that the guys that built whatever I'm working on know more about it than I do. Yes I am sure there are shortcuts (as with most things) but I am also sure I haven't worked on enough Toyota axles to know them. 

  9. Thanks Linda, I'm painfully slow but thorough :)

    Yesterday I ordered the replacement spring perches from Ruffstuff Specialties. They specialize in suspension parts for off-roaders. The perches will need to be moved inboard 1/2" per side as well as ground to fit the additional gusseting on the Toyota tube. One handy feature is the adjustable center hole which gives me a shot at getting the driveshaft to fit without additional work. 

    perchdwg_zps473erpre.jpg

     

    R1221-full_zpsq5c3rrz4.jpg

     

     

  10. I had an hour to kill today so I popped the axle back in. The preload setting was kind of a pain with the new drum and shoes dragging a bit but I think I got it within spec. One interesting discovery was an axle seal I found on the axle itself.

    IMG_1408_zpsfebpmigg.jpg

    This was odd because I had already taken one out of the tube. The maintenance guy at U-haul must have been hungover that day. At any rate one side down,one to go

    IMG_1409_zpshdbdpyxx.jpg

  11. Made some progress today but not as much as I had hoped. I ended up drilling out my broken bolt in the e-brake cable housing and It took me a while to cobble together a fix for it.

     

    IMG_1372_zpstluozz7q.jpg

     

    IMG_1373_zpsjd7xtra9.jpg

     

    The other thing that seemed to take forever was cleaning up the hub.....man that thing was filthy. It is now painted but not dry so I couldn't finish the right side

    IMG_1400_zpsfneksky8.jpg

     

    I did however get the new brakes installed

     

    Before

    IMG_1353_zpsrnyygwz3.jpg

     

    After

    IMG_1375_zps7aj3jdzf.jpg

     

  12. 6 hours ago, jdemaris said:

    What is the box-shaped thing with the Andreas Stihl color-scheme?  Kind of looks like a generator. If so, I did not know they ever sold one.

    stihlmaybe.jpg

    That is the Great Grandfather of the EU series Honda generator. It is from the early to mid 70's and still runs like a Swiss watch. It is only a 400 watt unit but it is only as big as an Igloo lunchbox. One cool feature is the DC out so you can charge your vehicle batteries cordlessly. I haven't run across many things that are as handy

    IMG_1396_zpsqomabeb9.jpg

  13. Not much time this week but at least I think I have all the parts together 

    Shoes
    Drums
    Wheel Cylinders
    Hardware
    Inner/Outer seals
    Hub gaskets
    Pinion seal

    IMG_1365_zps9z5m3fg0.jpg

    I started to pull apart the right side today. I got all the way down to the backing plate and gave it a good wire wheeling and a coat of paint. I managed to break a bolt for the e-brake cable mount but I think I can get it out. The bearings looked good so I am just going to repack and reinstall them.
    Tomorrow I am going to try to get it back together

     IMG_1368_zpsbsgzok8t.jpg

  14. 1 hour ago, jdemaris said:

    I had a 1986 4WD S15 Jimmy for years with a TBI 2.8 and a 700R4.   It ran fine for what it was.  Got 19 MPG on highway runs.  Sold it with 180K and engine ran fine, but yes - not a powerhouse.  The reality is - I would not expect any engine that small to be powerful - at least not of that vintage.  I went from that to a 1995 AWD Astrovan with the 4.3 and CPI injection and the 4L60E.  It got a best of 18 MPG and is likely the worse piece of crap I ever owned, including the CPI fuel system.  Never any huge mechanical issues other then the fuel injection. Many small problems - almost on a weekly basis.

    When it comes to V8s - if I wanted one in an RV - I'd have something like a Roadtrek, or a coach-on-frame diesel.  Not why I mess with little Toyotas and Datsuns.  My main goal is ultimate fuel mileage for travellilng cross country with three people and a dog.  I am kind of disappointed with the fuel mileage in my 1988 20 footer with the 2.4 EFI and auto trans.  My 1978 Chinook with the 2.2 and 5 speed manual is MUCH better, but it is also MUCH smaller. I've got a dually full-floater in that. I can get 22 MPG with it and I wonder if it would do better is I'd left the original single-tire SF rear in it that it came with OEM.

     

    That's a lot of power to give up for 1 MPG.... granted you had the worst version of the 4.3 ever made. If you get years made prior to and after their early vortec designs they are some of the most dependable engines GM ever made (at least in my opinion) which is why I chose to go through all of the work to convert my Mirage over to a fuel injected (TBI) 4.3 . I think they offer a nice blend of power/fuel ecomomy and dependability for an application such as this

    DSC04450_zps2e2c34b8.jpg

    DSC04452_zpsb81b3dce.jpg

    DSC04464_zpse601bbce.jpg

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