defrag4
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Everything posted by defrag4
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https://www.yotatech.com/f160/3-4-swap-alternator-belt-options-270380/
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I havent decided what to do about my alternator bracket yet either, I have read about a few guys who just chopped the end off the 3.4 bracket and then used a shorter belt, let me try to find some links for you. here we go, post #47 https://www.yotatech.com/f160/toyota-motorhome-3-0-swap-237494/index3.html another guys solution - dayco belt # 5040400, use the 3.0 lower bracket and extend the slot to the bend and get rid of the adjuster bolt. The belt is still a pain to get on but I can stuff my hand in between the rag joint and alt. other guys just lop the end off the bracket completely and use a prybar to get the belt in place, then lock it down with nut/bolt
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pic of the new motor and custom crossover
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Also posting pics of my progress on our facebook page https://www.facebook.com/homeonthehighway/
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Some pics of the T100 pan vs 3VZE pan and modified baffle yep, for anyone else that runs into this issue. Left is T100 2wd pan, right is the 3vze 2wd pan you can see the small dip here in the pan which is needed to clear the crossmember and with the 3VZE pan on the 3.4L motor, the pickup will not clear the pan. So I had to take the 3VZE pickup and swap it over. But like you say the pickup hits the baffle, so needed to cut a hole in the 3.4L baffle, then you can access a bolt hole and secure it up there. The second leg of the 3VZE pickup does not have a bolt hole on my 96 T100 3.4 to bolt up too, so I just chopped it off, seems fairly secure still so I think I will be fine. You can see here with the baffle removed where the 3VZE pickup can bolt up, the Red square has a bolt hole, the yellow leg does not and needs to be removed. Cut a hole in the 3.4L baffle with a cutoff wheel and now we can bolt up the 3vze pickup to the 3.4 block
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hey ed! glad to hear you got your motor in, I am almost ready. Got the 3vze oil pan and pickup swapped over. I couldn't figure out how to get the 3vze baffle moved over but read most people just hack up the 3.4L baffle and use that, so that's what I did as well Discovered today that the water pump I installed during my rebuild has an output for an oil cooler, which apparently the 2wd T100 does not have. Tried to take the oil cooler off the 3VZE and swap it over but its hitting the motor mounts. I decided I am just going to plug the outlet with hose and cap for now. installing spark plugs now, going to try and drop this beast in tomorrow! I am worried about the exhaust hitting the shifting linkage, I got a custom built cross-over, but the guy said he had never seen it installed on the 2wd with column shifter linkage, so we shall cross that bridge tomorrow when we get there
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hey Ed, I am actually in the process of doing this exact same swap, I have a 92 Itasca with the 3VZE, my donor is a 1996 T100 2wd automatic spent a long time waiting on parts and rebuilding the 3.4, finally starting to drop it in now. So far have discovered the 2wd T100 oil pan will not fit, it bangs on the 2wd crossover between the lower control arms. An issue that 4x4 guys dont have to worry about, so i havent seen it mentioned much. So I need to swap the pan over from the 3vze, got it yanked off today and cleaned up, looks like it will fit if I move the 3vze oil pickup oil as well, I am going to need to modify the 3.4 oil baffle to fit the 3.0L pickup though. Hows it going on your end??? Not many others doing 2WD Toy motorhome swaps, so great to share knowledge with a fellow madman!
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Got it all buttoned up and back on the road, hit the mountain roads here in Montana and she is running great, seems I can smoothly cruise at ~65 now where before I would struggle. She also isn't struggling as much to climb up the steep passes! I dig it!! Best of all, no more death howl from the rear end! Looks like I may have messed up the brake install or the bearings one side, one hub is significantly warmer than the other side. Will take it apart again at my next destination and inspect.
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supposed to give you better low end grunt and set you in the sweet spot for highway cruising, right now the tranny hunts between 3 and 4 trying to pick a gear quite often can use diffs out of pickups and 4runners
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i did it hillbilly style, snug it up, spin the hub a few times, snug it up, spin it, loosen it back, hand tighten and about 1/4 turn past, seems ok we shal see if it burns up later
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Any idea on rear bearing preload? Or just snug it up?
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borked up the paper diff gasket, so just trashed it and ran a fat bead of black RTV around the diff housing. got the diff up in there now, man that thing is heavy and akward to wrestle up there by yourself!! Waiting on the RTV to cure up and then I will snug it down and start re-assembling the axles. Hopefully be rollin in a few hours!
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parts store had the rear diff gasket, no clue on the hub gasket, so I am just going to RTV that thing up
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Anyone have a clue on a part number for the paper gasket on the hub? Also the paper gasket on the diff? If they dont have them in stock locally I will just use some black RTV instead
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and by pull, looks like I mean chop off, the sensor goes straight through the diff, so it has to stick around. Just chopped the cable off
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got pull off all the ABS stuff, dont need it in my 92
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New guy on the left, old and busted on the right
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thanks, I had to go pick up one of those brake spring tools, screwed with them for about 2 hours before giving up, going 5 mins to the store and spending $6. Im an idiot Got one side done, will do the other tomorrow, should go much faster now that I know what I am doing (somewhat lol...)
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Ya I am lucky, this truck is from Las Vegas so not a spec of rust on her when I got it, Ive not been so kind to her, lots of coastal frolicking! OK I am looking at replacing these drum shoes, so many springs! I feel like I am going to jack something up here
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ah upon closer inspection I do see the seals, the one little one inside the lip at the tip of the axle shaft is still there and intact and the one on the back of the hub is there as well. Both look perfectly fine, not sure why there was so much oil in here? Guess I should pull them and replace?
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Drum brakes are a mystery to me... everything seems to be in order?
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I did not see a single seal so far, a bit of a paper seal remained between the hub and hub cover but thats about it. Where are the seals supposed to go?
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OK! Unscrewed that keeper plate and pulled the hub and drum off, front bearings fell out into my lap along with a bunch of gear oil. The bearings look good, definelty not lubed by grease, they are washed in gear oil
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Alright, got the hub face off and the 2 keeper screws off, good tip on the impact driver!
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yahtzee! didnt have to take those rear bolts off after all