defrag4
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Hey guys, I had put together this parts list for my personal use but figured it might help some of you guys as well. Its mostly for the later model 3VZE toyhomes, though many of the suspension/rear axle stuff will apply to anyone with a 6-lug rear.
Most stuff is from O'Reilleys, Amazon, a few parts direct from Toyota
My truck is a 1992 3VZE V6 - the front brakes should be the same for all 3VZE trucks, the rear brakes should be the same for all 6-lug 1-ton axles no matter the year or engine.3VZE Front Axle PartsRotors: BBR 96182RGS - https://amzn.to/2E0utdAFront Pads: WAG MX303 - https://amzn.to/2BAaUXmFront Wheel Bearing - Outer - Timken SET3 Bearing Set - https://amzn.to/2KBsOM1Front Wheel Bearing - Inner - Timken SET5 Bearing Set - https://amzn.to/2ScTh5fFront Wheel Bearing Seal - Toyota Part Number 90311-50005 / BECK/ARNLEY 0522375 - https://amzn.to/2KEx25S6-Lug Acorn Wheel Nut - Dorman 611-118 - https://amzn.to/2S9fWPOWheel Nut Toyota Part No. - 90942-01055Front Wheel Stud - Dorman 610-338 - https://amzn.to/2DYYavU1-Ton Rear Axle Parts DRWBrakeBest Drum Brake Hardware Kit - Part # 17215 - https://amzn.to/2BA9Rq8BrakeBest Select Brake Drum - Part # 9353DGS - https://amzn.to/2r8i0fGBrakeBest Select Brake Shoes - Part # 523 - https://amzn.to/2Bzq5QEBearing seal - National Oil Seal 226285 - https://amzn.to/2DYL4P1Inner Axle Lip Seal - National Oil Seal 710076 - https://amzn.to/2r2qlS6Rear Wheel Cylinder - Dorman W37654 - https://amzn.to/2S9QUAaAxle Shaft Hub Seal/Paper Gasket - Toyota Part No.: 43422-60040Rear Wheel Studs - Dorman 610-339 - https://amzn.to/2TKuG9wRear wheel stud nut - Toyota Part No.: 94115-71400
Rear Wheel stud washer - Toyota Part No.: 90201-14006
6-Lug Acorn Wheel Nut - Dorman 611-118 - https://amzn.to/2S9fWPO
Wheel Nut Toyota Part No. - 90942-010551986 Left Hand Studs - Toyota Part No: 90942-020571986 Left Hand Nut -Toyota Part No: 90942-01009Rear Brake Star Adjuster: Toyota Part No: 47405-30020Rear Leaf Spring Parts -Lower Spring Eye BushingToyota Part No.: 90385-18046 - https://amzn.to/2zoUTSwUpper Spring Eye BushingToyota Part No.: 90385-18012Rear Shocks - Bilstein 24-002585 - https://amzn.to/2P666MWFront Shocks - Bilstein 24-184830 - https://amzn.to/2KAGS8FAirbags - AIR LIFT 57113 - https://amzn.to/2FGE2QzHelpful ToolsBrake Spring Compressor Tool - https://amzn.to/2Sc1uXtMaintenance/Repair ItemsTiming Belt/Water Pump Kit - Aisin TKT-016 - https://amzn.to/2t0t0fW3VZE Fuel Pump - Denso 951-0001- https://amzn.to/2UCfzibFuel filter - FRAM G6680 - https://amzn.to/2TqZ2gB -
On 4/16/2018 at 8:55 PM, danny dan said:
Prior to the 3.4 swap, that wire would have gone from the P terminal as you mentioned to the negative side of the coil. The tach should at least be moving even if not correct. There is a potentiometer on the back if I recall for adjustment. You will need to wire the 10k resistor if not using a 3.4 t100 cluster. All the pickups and runners used cable speedo from 89-91 and electronic speedo from 92-95 with the exception of the t100. I have a resistor I can mail you.
Many thanks for the tips on the swap btw. I have about 900 miles on my 3.4 swap into my 92 Itasca. 13-15 mpg so far. Runs like a champ. Here is an under hood picture of mine as a reference to anyone considering the swap.
thanks dan, i got a cluster out of a 93 T100 with 3vze, i didnt put the resistor in before hooking up the tach, so maybe I just burned out the tach ?
one of these days ill track down a new tach to swap in there and try again
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Drove my 3.4L across the country from Florida
up to Alaska and back down, ~30,000 miles on the new swap, nary a PEEP from the motor, she is a beast. crushes the mountains and can actually pass people on the highway now!
average ~12-13mpg when cruising ~65, can get it up into the 14s if i am going sloooooow ~50-55
How you doing out there @ednelson100 ?
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So I have got everything working now on my new gauge cluster, EXCEPT for the damn tach...
I ran a tach sensor wire over to the "P" pulse terminal on the back of the cluster and then over to the black wire coming out of the ignitor, which according to the webs seems to be the right one, unforunately the IGN port on my 3.4L diag port doesnt actually have any wires going to it.
Did you have to add any resistors to your cluster to get the tach to work?
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did you guys have to add any tach signal wire to your clusters? i just swapped in a cluster from a 94 T100 but am getting nothing from the tach, note I also swapped out my motor to a 3.4L
note sure if my 92 was wired for a tach from the factory or not
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I am also working on swapping my gauge cluster out for the SR5 one with RPM, oil pressure, volts, etc
My first attempt was a failure, got a nice guage set from a 96 T100 figuring it would match the motor perfectly... well it matched the motor fine but it the guage set used a mechanical speedo whereas my trans is actually an electronic speedo, so back it went
Now I have one from a 93 T100 with a 3VZE, electronic speedo. got it plugged in but have no RPM gauge, not sure if it was wired from the factory for one or not? I am reading some articles that say I can tap into the diag port under the hood or the red/yellow wire coming off the igniter for an RPM signal and run a wire back to the gauge set to get my RPMs to work, we shall see tomorrow
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over in Colorado now, tearing up the rockies!
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still need to figure out a solution for the missing trans temp sender, its my last CEL i need to defeat
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also got the airbox installed off the 4runner and its sound 10000% times better, no more annoying drone, fits under the hood fine, had to rig up some mounting brackets out of random bolts and zipties
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finally installed my Neutral Start Switch today, got my PRNDL and reverse lights back yay!!
had to cut the wiring harness sheath back a ways and split out the NSS plug from the rest of it so I could strectch it over top of the trans and down to its home
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On 1/17/2018 at 8:05 PM, Iflyfish said:
That''s the one I had on my Winnebago View. It worked great. Had to replace the impeller once. but other than that, worked great. The price is about $100 less than I paid for it. Be sure and rinse it so you don't have buildup on the impeller. I used Angel Soft toilet tissue. I did an experiment and that broke down better than other brands and it is way cheaper than RV tp.
thanks, nothing goes down or toilet except for #1 and #2, we go mexican style and just have a trashcan in the bathroom for paper, works well for us
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I just ordered this badboy, a bit overpriced but seems to come with everything you need except for a garden hose. Will report back
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9 hours ago, Maineah said:
I wouldn't drive a Toy Home 90 mph even if it had a jet engine in it!
lol, were not driving, were flying low baby!!
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I like the idea of the sewer solution but am interested in adding a macerator to my rig for remote dumping into backcountry pit toilets or the like, someplace where there would not be shore water to use to get the thing flowing
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does she still run with the blown HG? fire her up and take her around the block, see how she feels
Definelty not good to flat tow it as the trans gets no fluid unless the truck is running, but have heard of others doing the same on accident for short distances and they came out OK,
though I would love to see a 3.4 swapped RV with a 5-spd!
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Also finally welded in the secondary o2 bung past the cats and now have eliminated one more check engine light!
My new T100 neutral start sensor just arrived that will replace the NSS on the 3vze trans, allowing me to hook up the 3.4 harness to it and restore my PRNDL indicator and reverse lights! that will be another CEL defeated
Only one that will remain is the trans temp sender, still havent figured out a solution for that yet, MIke from ORS says he is working on it, so if my lazy butt lags enough maybe he will get it figured out before I do
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hey Ed, just ordered the 4runner airbox and hose off ebay, pricey but I called around a few junkyards and they were all just as proud as this seller of their parts... oh well hopefully it quiets her down some!!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/232562200309 -
Me thinks we should keep this thread on track focusing on the tech of actually doing the swap, we could start another one arguing horsepower and shifting techniques??
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with the 3.4 swap i can haul butt and definitely keep up with any traffic, even on big mountain climbs, and no more having to dick with forcing it into L or 2 to try and climb the grades, just hammer down and she has enough to juice to get up and over, i have spent the past 6 months traveling all over the Smoky mountain range
Looking forward to getting out to the rockies and sierras to put her up against some steeper grades
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Mike just sent me this, a few other gotchas u will find during the swap
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FYI I just spoke to Mike from Offroad Solutions (they have lots of parts to help with the swap) and he just told me they recently made a custom linkage set for the RV swap to get around the issue with the exhaust banging into the linkage, its not on their website yet but if you give them a call they might be able to hook you up!
tell them james with 92 RV sent ya!
http://www.offroadsolutions.com/contact-ors/also said they had a few other solutions regarding the alternator bracket and a few other gotchas the RVs run into with the 3.4 swap
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On 12/18/2017 at 9:13 PM, ednelson100 said:
I was speaking with a Toy owner the other day and she is planning on having a mechanic do the swap for her and had some questions.
I figure it was time I posted a brief summary of my swap for anyone interested.
Every motor swap is different but this is how I did mine. After doing a lot of internet research I concluded that the easiest and cheapest way to DIY was to purchase an entire donor Toyota T100 PU. That way you have a complete set of spare parts.
I found a damaged 1997 T100 from an online insurance auction and used that for a donor vehicle. I did all the work myself except for the exhaust pipe re-routing. The hardest part was the wiring because I was just so unfamiliar with it, but after doing more internet research, getting all of the correct wiring diagrams printed out, and working on it for two weeks it started getting easier and easier. To complete the entire swap took me around two months while still working a full time job. I did not find this swap that hard but very time consuming. There were not that many good posts to rely on and some posts from users who did their swap with 4Runners actually steered me in the wrong direction. Toyota Motor Home swap is different from a 4Runner swap.
I would be happy to assist anyone wishing to attempt this by answering all questions posted.
Total cost of swap:
$1100 (After selling what is left of the T100 then it would come to around $900)
BENEFITS:
More power and better performance
More reliability, with the 5VZE being one of the best engines Toyota ever produced
Improved gas mileage, I am getting 14-16 MPG highway, compared to 10 from my old sick 3.0
Elimination of ECT button, ( Extra power appears to be built in and when you need extra power like climbing a hill it kicks in automatically)
OBDI II receptacle for reading “Check Engine” codes
Easier to work on motor with more engine compartment space
Taken From 5VZE 3.4:
Motor
Transmission
Motor/Transmission Wire Harness
Battery Harness
ECU
E4(A) ECU Body Harness Female Connector
Alternator
Instrument Panel
VPS / VSS Sensors
OBDI II receptacle assembly
OBDI II 7.5A Fuse holder assembly
Cooling Fan
Battery Tray (Modified)
Alternator Bracket (Modified)
02 Sensors
Taken From Old 3VZE 3.0:
C2 Body Harness Female Connector
Motor Mounts
Oil Pan
A/C Compressor
Charcoal Canister
Cruise Control ASSY.
Radiator
Bottom radiator Hose
Alternator Voltage Regulator
Transmission speedometer shaft gear
Other:
From junk yard - A/C pulley from Jeep Cherokee (Other vehicles will have it too)
From junk yard - 4 Foot Cruise Control Cable (modified on both ends)
From junk yard - Air filter ASSY from 1997 4Runner
From Autozone - Top radiator hose Dayco PN # 71695 Length C
From Autozone - Alternator Belt NAPA PN # 25-040405
great info in here Ed!! Hopefully help some others in the future, 100% agree on trying to buy the full truck, I spent wayyyy to much on ebay buying random bits that i could have just scavenged if I had a donor truck
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On 12/18/2017 at 8:38 PM, ednelson100 said:
Nice to hear from you James,
I thought maybe you sold your Toy and moved on.
I have put 6,000 miles on mine now and am very pleased. I get a consistent 13.5MPG city and I believe 14-15 highway. Could not get a good reading for a long time because my odometer was not accurate. You may recall I took the transmission out of the T100 donor and the speedometer and odometer were always high until I finally opened the transmission tail and swapped the speedometer shaft gear with the 3.0 gear. Here is the intake filter you should look for, fit perfectly and is so quiet now.
This came off of a 1997 4Runner.
I am retiring from work on December 31st and will be in Quartzsite, AZ for the giant RV rally on January 19.
Planning to go to Winter Haven, Florida in February.
Maybe one of these days we can meet up somewhere?
Ed
awesome Ed! Glad to hear you are out enjoying your labors, congrats on retiring, 1 more week till freeeeedom!
We are up in North Carolina till end of Jan then headed to Mississippi for a month or so to help my sis-in-law with some new property she bought there, after that we are back on the road. West bound! Eventually turning north towards Alaska once the winter weather breaks.
I will be scouring the junkyards of Mississippi here in a few weeks for some of the bits to finally get this girl completed. Looks like a perfect fit on that 97 4runner airbox, thanks!!
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i am also still running the aftermarket intake, its LOUDDDDDDDDD, will be trying to track down a replacement that fits under the hood, good to know the stock t100 box wont work, wonder if a 4runner/pickup has a different setup
Toyota part numbers for Brakes, Axles, Suspension, etc
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
Posted
feel free to toss me anything you think I am missing and I can update the main post!