defrag4
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Posts posted by defrag4
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On 3/21/2022 at 9:32 PM, thewanderlustking said:
They were a PAIN to get lined up with the holes in the locating washer/plate. I pulled the spinning weird nut thing off and lined up the holes with the pins on the hub for reference and then was able to get it all lined up. Not sure I trust the geometry of using set screws for that application, but I ordered some (proper replacements), so I don't have to think about that too deeply haha! It probably doesn't matter.
so what were the final results of your brake job bud, did they adjust by backing up or was it the e-brake?
im having similar issue and not sure if im just crazy or not
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been having issues with my rear brakes, 7 years after changing them out so revisiting my own thread here, got 1 side apart yesterday and found they still looked basically brand new, found my star adjuster is completely seized and was not adjusting the brakes properly! I expect to find the other side completely cooked
Going to try and soak it for a while in PB Blaster to get it to free up
Adding Toyota part numbers for rear 1-ton brake star adjuster here
RH Side- 47405-30020
LH Side- 47406-30020
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FYI - V6 motorhome brake pads from Autozone - Duralast D303
dont trust anything in their computer, these are the correct pads
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oh buddy, from a toyota to a VW Eurovan... good luck brotha
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also feel free to join us over at PanAm Travelers forum for real advice from people who have been there/are there currently
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an older for sale ads from a 84 dolphin who made it
https://www.facebook.com/groups/panamtravelers/?post_id=2323301521042000
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also the cost to RORO your rig around the darien gap will likely be more than the rig itself 😛
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More than a handful of Toyhomes have done it already in both 3VZE and 22RE rigs, I drove my 4runner 22re down there and found parts in most every country, the hilux shares most of the suspension bits
i would get as much ground clearance as possible, whether you do that with additional leafs, shackles, airbags, or spacers is up to you, but dragging that big ol behind over topes and muddy ditches will be your biggest issue
i actually think I saw a toyhome for sale recently in Chile, let me see if I can find it
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File me under Ugly, but ill help you out if you ever make it down to Loreto, Baja Sur, Mexico!
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On 1/22/2020 at 5:49 AM, ednelson100 said:
Have not heard of or seen any 4cyl to 6cyl done on a Toyota motorhome but it's been done on the 4Runners.
Here is one example.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160/22r-5vz-swap-126413/
ya ive seen it done on the 4runners/pickups as well, just not on a yoterhome
hows the ol gal running Ed?
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great writeup bud! keep her going, bring us homeeeeeeeee!
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lotta chatter and some silly arguments in this thread (what was up at that stamar guy?) but i only saw 3 successful swaps posted, all 3.0 -> 3.4
I know ive seen an older Sunrader 4x4 with a 350 chevy in it, but thats about the only 22RE swap ive seen, has anyone else taken the plunge on the 4cylinders? -
PS: glad to see you still out there on the road!
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handy little gauge there ed
I was recently driving around in baja and suddenly lost power, coasted over to the side of the road, truck wouldnt start back up, she would crank and crank but never fire up, so my brain goes straight to fuel, i check all the connections, all looks good
pop the fuse box and sure enough the EFI fuse is blown, i swap a new one in, boom she fires right up, my wife praises my genius and down the road we go.... for about 5 minutes, lose all power again, fuse is popped once more
i had just got some exhaust work done so I crawl under the truck and take a look, I start tracing the wires from the fuel pump back to the front of the truck, sure enough find a bundle of wire sagging down onto my fancy new exhaust...
3 of the wires had melted and were shorting each other out, i cut the sheathing back a bit, cleaned up the wires and wrapped them indiviudally in electric tape, secured the wires up with a zip tie, put in a new fuse and no more issues!
When i got back home I used some heatshrink/solder connectors to fix her up right
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id go with the toyota lug nuts, the dorman one fits but it is a different size hex head, think it was a 21mm, not the 23mm that all the other factory nuts use
pricey at ~$6 a nut, but cheaper than shearing your rim off!
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Rear Wheel Studs - Dorman 610-339 - https://amzn.to/2TKuG9wRear wheel stud nut - Toyota Part No.: 94115-71400
Rear Wheel stud washer - Toyota Part No.: 90201-14006
6-Lug Acorn Wheel Nut - Dorman 611-118 - https://amzn.to/2S9fWPO
Wheel Nut Toyota Part No. - 90942-01055 - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~nut~hub~for~axle~90942-01055.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Pickup&Year=1992&Submodel=2+Wheel+Drive-JPP&Filter=(d=USA;1=3VZE;4=STD;5=ATM;6=4HC;7=RCB;8=WT;9=HLF;13=IV6;14=T1;0=VZN85L-TWSREA6) -
My rig was built in california and also has the dual cats, finally getting them chopped off down here in Mexico, let that puppy breathe!
no emissions in our home state of FL, good luck with california
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On 5/11/2019 at 9:10 AM, ednelson100 said:
Yes they do, but I doubt if they will last another 28 years like the originals, but then neither will this RV or probably me either.
There was not enough space to get the driver's side one to come out because it hit the steering column, so I had to make two cuts in the inside fender well and peel a section of it back.
lol you sound just like me Ed, after dicking with the arm for a few days i eventually gave up and bought one with pre-pressed bushings and after wrestling trying to get the goddang thing back in for hours I eventually took tin snips to the fender!
Glad to hear you are still out there on the road! -
10 hours ago, 1988dolphin said:
So, to close out this post. I sourced and pulled a third member with 4:88 gears, paid $175. Installed it, got the speedometer adapter from Sacramento speedometer, paid $85. Very happy with the result.
sounds like a good deal to me, congrats!
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adding part number for upper control arms, rather than dicking with the replacing the bushings I have found just ripping the whole arm out and replacing with these dorman arms with pre-pressed bushings is much faster and easier, they have held up well over many tens of thousands of miles of beating the crap out of them, so can recommend!
Dorman 522-651 Front Upper Suspension Control Arm
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Replacement Tire Valve Stem - Toyota Part No: 90942-05026 or Aftermarket Tr-544 (needs to be bent slighty to proper angle)
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Found some part numbers on the axle thread, not sure if they still exist or not but they do show as available when I search for them on toyotapartsdeal.com
Left Hand Studs:
Toyota Part No: 90942-02057
Left Hand Nut
Toyota Part No: 90942-01009
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added 3vze fuel pump and fuel filter, ill do some hunting on those left hand nuts, but why not just change all the studs/nuts to RH out so you dont have to deal with that oddball issue?
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On 11/22/2018 at 6:17 AM, ednelson100 said:
I'm doing great Mr. Defrag4,
Wow Alaska and back, that's great. I want to do that trip one day too.
The 3.4 motor has met all my expectations and has lived up to its reputation. It is now over 170K miles on the motor with only one minor issue. "see below". My MPG has improved to 15.5 - 16 MPG traveling at 55 after I moved the 2nd O2 sensor from where the exhaust shop had placed it before the first catalytic converter to after the first catalytic converter. I have never had to add any oil between changes and when it is time for an oil change the oil still looks clean, amazing. I plan to do a complete overhaul of the motor when I hit 600K miles, haha.
My minor issue. It starts fine when cold or short trips but occasionally after driving 2 or three hours when weather is hot, it only clicks, after a few more clicks it starts. I replaced starter with another used starter, checked all wires and grounds, replaced 3.0 80 amp fuse with 3.4 100 amp fuse, and wrapped starter in heat reflecting blanket. So now I have a brand new starter to install before my next trip. So cheap, $43 from Amazon.
good to hear my friend! hope you got that starter swapped out and have been cruisin trouble free!
I had my rad fan blow up on me and take out upper/lower rad hoses, take a big chunk out of the airbox, slice a hole in the battery, take a few belts out, and made some gnarly dents in the hood.
I was able to rig everything back up on the side of the road with some electrical tape and zipties, limped it down the road a few miles to a NAPA which was able to order every single part I needed, SAME DAY, on a Saturday in the middle of nowhere. Had her back up and running good by dinnertime.God bless old toyotas!
Toyota part numbers for Brakes, Axles, Suspension, etc
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
Posted · Edited by defrag4
Part Number for Front Ebrake cable - 1992 3.0 V6, should fit all the 3vze campers
OEM: 46410-35710
Dorman C660248
Amazon Articway brand: https://amzn.to/3R9Fa0T
This is the cable that connects to the handbrake in the cab, it runs through the firewall and eventually splits off into 2 other cables under the truck that run to each drum brake. Cable is ~46 inches end to end
Mine was seized solid, I could not pull my ebrake at all, and no amount of PB Blaster could save it