DanRT66

Good info, indeed and thanks to all.

Update, FWIW: checked into an RV park and hooked everything up. The AC does indeed work quite well on 30 amp, and all my new plumbing (galley and bathroom sinks, shower and toilet) work just fine and don't leak, on water pump or city flow with pressure reducer. Getting closer to a shakedown cruise. Thanks again for everyone's comments - I now know a lot more about the AC than I did.

Thanks.

I might as well toss in another newbie question. I've noted some keep the fridge on while driving, either propane or electric. Didn't know that was an option, but it's great. My question: if the fridge is running on 12v when camped, is level still required or there some leeway in 12v mode? I've got a 100 watt solar panel charging, now, a 12 volt and two series-wired 6 volt deep cycle batteries paired with a 1500 watt inverter, so electric is an option at most times...thanks, great discussions.

I live in a 90-year-old house, and the wiring, though technically meeting code, is something of a dog's breakfast. I do have some 20 amp circuits, and I may be able to run a line out far enough to test. Thanks!

So, clearly, I need to get to a 30 amp hookup and give it a try, and I'll do that Monday. This discussion has been really helpful! Great forum.

Honda EU2000i

Linda, will check out the capacitor. Thanks. It's a 15-amp on circuit breaker, but for the generator test I was plugged directly into the 2000 watt portable generator, 30 amp plug through a 15 amp adaptor.

Dana, wow. Also in ABQ and it reached 115 in the RV a couple days, at least 108 all the rest of them this week.

Thanks! Luckily I know the fan works, so there's that - and I'll see if someone will let me plug in for a test.

Ah. Electrics are not my thing, so maybe I can find a shop to work on it. Thanks, folks.

Here's a photo of the only label on the interior

Thanks, I wondered about that. I've never gotten past the overload to see if the generator could handle it running. It goes into overload just a second or so after the knob is turned to "low cool". Though I don't know the model, the operator's manual handed down with the RV states that it's either 11,000 or 13,500 BTU.

Hi - My '91 Warrior has a stock Coleman AC unit (don't know the model; the model/serial number label is gone). Previous owner swore it worked, used it in southern California occasionally. Yep, I know what those promises are worth, but every other thing he has claimed about the Toy has proved out. At any rate: I'm trying to get finished up inside so I can hit the road to go north, and it's beastly hot in there (Albuquerque). I have tried to run my AC both on a 15 amp home circuit and on a 2000 watt portable generator. The former trips a circuit breaker, the latter puts the generator into overload mode. Do I just truly need a 30 amp circuit to run this, or does it sound like the AC is in need of repair or replacement? Not electrically very knowledgeable (clearly). Are replacement units a bear to install? I'm looking at something like this if I need to go new... http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/coleman-mach-8-cub-air-conditioner-arctic-white-shroud/72717 Thanks in advance for any clues. Dan

Simple rocks. Thanks, guys!

Good plan, thank you.

Ah - I see. The 12-volt is a couple years old, so I guess it may be the weaker of the set. Thank you.

I have been re-doing my '91 Warrior for some time. Over the winter, I installed a 100-watt solar panel and 30-amp controller, and hooked it to my one 12 volt deep-cycle coach battery. Because I later settled on adding a 1500 watt inverter, I decided to switch to two 6-volt deep-cycle batteries. I took it in to the RV shop I've been using for stuff I couldn't handle for some wood-rot work, and decided to have them do the new battery and inverted hookup too. They had the damn thing for five weeks - I kept getting shoved to the back of the queue, apparently. So I went to pick it up and, instead of removing the 12-volt battery as I had discussed with the owner, they hooked the 2 6-volt into the coach charging system and hooked them to the inverter, using cables I had supplied. They didn't connect them to the solar controller, and they left the 12-volt one there and hooked to the solar and everything else. I told them I'd intended for the new batteries to be charged by the solar panel (duh) and they got that taken care of. I asked them if it was not a mistake to have a 12-volt and two 6-volt batteries all hooked together in the same system, but they didn't miss a beat, and said it would be fine. So now, the solar panel is charging all three. Is this okay? Should I get the 12 volt battery out of there? I like the idea of more electrical storage, but I don't want to screw up the system. Any advice appreciated. Thanks, Danny PS the shop did a mediocre job on the wood repair, and I will be taking the RV back to them for more work approximately never.

Thanks! My solar panel is 100 watts (and I may add a second 100 in future) and I have a 30 amp controller. Words of wisdom much appreciated!

When solar-charged batteries are wired to an inverter (as I plan to do), is any change required to the native charging system or 12v connections? Is battery isolation done between the house batteries and the native charging system? Sorry for all the questions, and I appreciate your patience and answers!

Thanks very much.

This setup looks great, and I'm contemplating something very similar. I've got a 100W solar panel currently charging the single 12v deep cycle house battery; I want to change that out for 2 6v deep cycle and add a 1500 watt inverter. In looking at your setup: are the smaller red and white wires (not tape-wrapped) from the converter or a solar controller, or? Obviously, newbie at this. Thanks.

chefdave, I don't know if you'll see this, but I am not very good at visualizing by description and I'm trying to understand how your repair came together. So you added a layer of plywood over the floor that was already there, in the same shape? What is the frame you constructed, was that in the side walls? My side walls are okay, it's the floor directly in front and behind the horizontal metal band that pulls the fiberglass up against the floor of the cabover, and some of the wood under the bottom edge of the metal molding that runs all around the edges of the cabover. I'm thinking I can use a sheet of plywood as I think you did (with the long screws to re-attach the molding) but I'm confused as to how I can replace the bad wood under the lower edge of the molding on both sides...does that make sense?

My first Toyota Mini (formerly had a 34' Class A, which ate my lunch on a daily basis), purchased in October. Tentatively named Nelson. '91 Warrior 321RB, very basic model, and interior renovation is underway. Located in Albuquerque, planning for summers in the NW, mostly Montana. If I could figure out how to post a picture here, I sure would :-)