Ctgriffi

Yeah, that was my thought as well. I can't imagine this fan ever moving under its own power, it was that difficult to rotate. And, thanks for the link to newer converters; I've been researching those.

All of the outlets in the coach (except the one I mentioned earlier) are on the same circuit; I assume the GFCI protects them all, yes? One other thing, guys/gals: Before I buttoned the power center back up, I vacuumed out tons of dust/crud from the lower transformer section. I noticed the hefty cooling fan on the back right of the unit and tried to reach in and give it a spin; that fan did not want to move. Even with a lot of pressure, it would barely rotate. That sound normal?

I've been putting off my repair/rebuild project for some time, waiting for the unlikely combination of time/money to arrive. Due to a surprising (and very unwelcome) company layoff, I suddenly find myself with plenty of time, so I'm moving ahead and doing what I can with whatever materials I have handy. I wire-brushed and sanded these pieces today, cleaned them up, and am priming/painting. The angle pieces are steel and join the bed foundation to the sidewalls. The other two pieces are aluminum and screw together to join the upper/lower fiberglass skin, at the roof of the cab.

Dug into my AC problem some more this afternoon and, yes, I'm feeling pretty dumb: There was indeed a tripped GFCI outlet that had disabled the entire circuit! I forgot that outlet even existed; it's located down low, underneath the dinette table, not in the bath like one might expect. Anyway, a quick reset restored all my AC outlets. 1. It still doesn't make sense that it could trip and then reset itself, I know. One explanation: after further investigation, I discovered that one of my coach outlets is not on the same circuit with all the others; maybe during my initial troubleshooting, I plugged into that one temporarily, which would have been active/hot while the other circuit was still tripped. Dunno... 2. Do I need that GFCI down under there? Could I, should I, replace it with a standard outlet? Is it important to have that protection on the circuit somewhere, albeit a different, more accessible location?

Are all models setup to charge the coach battery from the alternator, Linda?

In a similar situation in the past, I had some success with this approach: Do some research and gather dollar values for very similar vehicles currently on the market; type it up in a clear, professional format and fax it to claims dept. If you still keep hitting a stone wall after every negotiation (i.e. they want to total the vehicle and give you next to nothing), use the following: "I'm going to have to speak your manager; please put him/her on the phone immediately."

You make a good point here in terms of the circuit flow, but I think jdemaris is saying: "How could an issue with the GFI/GFCI create an open circuit and then, somehow, close that circuit again at some point in the future?" In any case, I appreciate everybody's help.

10-4, thermal breaker is just a possibility. Hey, I'm no electrical engineer, but that schematic seems to indicate that the TS1 feeds the transformer directly... but not necessarily the AC coach outlets. Am I reading that correctly?

I guess, to rephrase my earlier question, I'm a little mystified as to what was causing the current overload and resultant heat. I think I had a small, portable AC fan running and maybe the fridge (in 110V mode). Nothing excessive. Good to know that the thermal breaker is a cheap fix though, thanks.

FYI: For others who may need to research the Magnatek 6300 series, several tech docs are available on the Parallax Power Supply website.

Picked up a new check valve at a local shop. They don't make 'em like they used to I think, but it is brass and seemed to do the trick. No more antifreeze leaking out through the WH.

Thanks for all the great replies, guys. I haven't put a multimeter on the garage outlet yet, but I'll probably start with that next. The extension cord I'm using is a 25' 10ga. triple tap, which lights up when current is present, so it's pretty clear if/when it's got juice. It wouldn't hurt to check the voltage, etc at the outlet, though; we haven't lived in the place for long, and the detached garage is on its own sub panel (four fuse box). Hard to say what kind of shape that wiring is in out there. Jdemaris: You might be on to something there... I saw a thermal breaker in the technical docs for this converter and wondered if that was the problem, too. I'm not sure what could be causing the excessive heat that would trigger it (?).

While doing some winterization and coach clean-up recently, I realized that none of my outlets were working, even though shore power was connected to the same garage receptacle I always use (to keep my big marine battery charged; I don't use that circuit to run my roof A/C or anything "big"). I tried every single outlet in the RV, and all were dead. I also double-checked the two CBs on my panel, and neither had tripped. Some point later, I tried one of the outlets again, and it worked... then again, later, all outlets were dead again. At the same time, all of the 12V lights/fans and water pump kept operating just fine, no problems. Any idea what's happening here? I think I've got the original Magnetek Series 6300A unit—is it finally dying on me? What should I be checking/testing? Appreciate the help!

Nope, too busy with other projects, sorry. I'm still trying to find time/$$ to rebuild my cabover area.

Thanks for confirming. Well, I soaked it for a few days in vinegar, worked the internal spring in and out, and rinsed it a few times. It's definitely sealing better, but I can still force a tiny bit of air through the "wrong way," if I give it everything I've got. Guess I need to find a new valve?

Pulled this off the WH... check valve, yes? Seems to allow flow in both directions however, so I'm going to soak it in vinegar and see what that does.

I think you might be right about the check valve; I'll have to take a look in the morning. (Wish I had a good drawing of my system; I do much better when I can see the whole shebang!)

Yeah, this is an original all-in-one deal, with three connections. Here's a photo I snapped while disconnecting.

We're finally getting starting to get near freezing at night, so I started winterizing my 91 Warrior this afternoon. I did this task successfully last year, so I just followed the notes I had jotted down, until I ran into something that stymied me. My water heater has the factory-mounted bypass valve, and I was under the impression that, once I set the valve to bypass, no water from the rest of the system could enter the water heater... true? Here's what happened: I drained the system, the fresh water tank, and the hot water heater completely. Then, I activated the bypass valve. I added a couple gallons of RV antifreeze to the fresh water tank, turned on the pump, and then ran each faucet and fixture until I had pink coming out everywhere. I shut off the last faucet and was surprised to hear the pump continuing to cycle off/on as if I still had something running. A few minutes later, I realized that a pretty good trickle of pinkish water was coming out of the open hot water heater drain. I disconnected all the lines to the bypass valve and removed it for examination; looks like a solid ball valve system, and it operates perfectly well at both positions—doesn't seem to have any leakage (when using my best lung power). What am I missing here?

Enjoyed this little anecdote, Jim, but wish you had ended it with... a great test for the old ticker.

That is not remotely close to 21-ft...

One valve per tire—so, six valves needed total (seven, if you're replacing your spare, too).

Hi Sherrie, I've got a 91 Warrior w/V6 and ordered those exact tires through Walmart. You've probably read some of the various threads regarding tires/valves already, but I'll just highlight the following... The Nexen tires have worked fine for us so far. I've only put a few thousand miles on them but have been satisfied with the quality, traction, and ride so far. Walmart probably won't be able to balance them on their machine. I guess some locations can and some can't, depending on their available equipment/adapters. I had to go to a local shop for the balancing, once the tires had been mounted (unexpected and kind of a pain, yes). I purchased and brought my own brand-new OEM valves, and Walmart was happy to use those. You can find them on eBay at this link (I think I remember that the seller was willing to waive the additional shipping charges and "bundle" the six.) Hope this was helpful.

Thanks for posting the photos and description of your repair job. I've got to do some similar work on my Warrior, so it's really helpful to see how different people approach these problems.

Reminds me... My ignition key is half-broken off in the lock; came that way when I bought it. I bought a pick to try and pull the lost tip back out, with no success. Anyway, as a result my truck keeps running when I pull my half-a-key out, which has actually come in handy more than once.