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john*thomas

Toyota Advanced Member
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Posts posted by john*thomas

  1.  I'm not being flippant or dismissive of your question, this is what I really do. When doing a project and I need something and there are no real instructions or kits I go to Lowes or Home Depot or wherever and just look around and see what I can find that I think might work. 

     

     There are corner strips you can buy but the best bet is to get a good idea on how wide you need and go look and see if you can find one. 

     

     Like this is 2 1/2 inches.

     

     https://www.grainger.com/product/PAWLING-CORP-Corner-Guard-49JP30?opr=PDPSDSP&analytics=dssubItems_49JP26&position=2

  2. The area over the cab seems to be a very common area where they leak. It's very difficult to find a perfect one and the really nice ones are going for high dollars right now but it can be a lot of work if it needs extensive work. 

     

     Tires and A/C can likely be addressed for $800-$1500. That wouldn't stop me. The overhead is another story. Mine has had some leaks but overall the framework was pretty solid. 

  3.   Are you asking because you want to because you would like them painted or just looking at resale? If you want to do it, you should do it.

     

     Now my opinion..........those that have been updated and updated nicely (painted and finished very nicely) seem to be brining good dollars. Either all original in excellent shape or updated in a nice tasteful manner brings the best dollars IMO.

  4.  

      My son put down some new flooring for me today. Only took a few hours. We still have a little trim to do but so much better. (old pics are above) I think I have enough to do the back of the cabin divider. I hate that carpet on it. Couple things......as it relates to another thread on spongy floors you can see where my floor is solid. I think I'm going to add a L channel brace underneath just to really firm things up. The new floor has helped also. While I did have leaks you can see where the old carpet had a rubberized pad so the water never really did get to the floor. 

     

     I almost passed on this because it was so in need of attention when I bought it and the outside still doesn't look all that great but I'm really pretty happy with it now. Runs great and the interior is quite presentable. 

      

     

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  5.  Do you have the old carb? Just throwing this out there. It could be junk or it could simply be clogged with old gas. These things sit and the gas sets up in the small passages and then they do not work. I've brought many old carbs back to life with a cheap Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner. I use Simple Green in it and there is no big mess to deal with afterwards either. 

     

     Sometimes they will come clean without even taking them apart but even if you have to take it apart (which is going to work better, making a gasket is easy also]. Sometimes the floats will get pin holes in them. Again, not too hard to fix. Old small engine carbs are pretty simple devices. It can take some time so it becomes pricey to get someone else to do it. 

  6.  Interesting topic. I'm 98% sure I have all my leaks stopped. Next to address was going to be the floor. I see where a few mention a bit of spongy areas but what seems to be a pretty solid floor. I've been under mine and have poked around and it seems pretty solid. I suppose I'll find out before long. I'm putting waterproof laminate flooring down in our bedroom/bathroom and I hope to have enough left over and pieces to do the RV.

  7. 38 minutes ago, JayBees said:

    john*thomas- they do have threaded nuts. From what I’ve been able to dig up on forums like this, it’s common for them to be seized on and cutting is often regarded as easier since they’re usually replaced anyhow. I tried to remove them once but was using a breaker bar with an adapter. The adapter snapped in half. I may try again and use the jack to release more tension on the axle/spring (and not use an adapter).

     

     Yes, you should replace them either way. Inexpensive. Cutting them would be the easy way maybe. I have a torch and plasma cutter so I might cut them also. I was just curious. 

     

     If the axle is supported and you cut or remove the ubolts the spring has nowhere to go. 

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