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Posts posted by Odyssey 4x4
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On 5/19/2020 at 7:23 PM, Nam said:
Looking great...please keep up the good work. What kind of LED dimmer are you using?
Thank you! I am using this expensive little booger. Four of them to be exact!
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1 hour ago, nucktaco said:
just picked up a 1991 Odyssey yesterday and ive got the manuals ive been going through for most items. one question regardings shore power. am i ok to plug in full time while its parked outside my house?
the electrical panel has a red light that says if solid its charging, if rapid flashing its charged over 90%. i plugged it in last night, this morning was rapid flashing so over 90% which is good.
should it have an auto shutoff though to stop from overcharging?
this is my first motorhome so not 100% certain of everything yet. PFA.
thanks,
Scott
Some RV's have "smart chargers" that lower charging voltage to a battery maintaining voltage to not hurt the battery once it's fully charged. Some old RVs did not have smart chargers and would cook the battery by overcharging it once it was charged. Look up the model number on your charger and check online to see if it's a smart charger.
Very clean Odyssey by the way!
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I’ve had a clogged cat in the past on a different type of vehicle. If you ran the vehicle at night, the cat would eventually glow red.
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When I had my leaf spring U-bolts bent at my local heavy frame and axle shop it looks like they could do just about anything suspension related.
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26 minutes ago, rvplease said:
The issue I've seen on the few I've looked at was that with not great care they weather then leak, more than the aluminum or fiberglass roofs I've looked at. It's too bad because the rear dinette models have that great back window....
yeah mine is the rear dinette and an awesome layout. I think I’m going to keep the rubber roof design, they seem to do alright from what I’ve seen -
44 minutes ago, rvplease said:
Thanks Derek, that's too bad, based on the interest in these you can argue that Toyota rvs can be called legendary, certainly collectable, and it seems that a lot of vehicles less in demand have their own buyers guides, and books written about them. If members of this site sent in some basic information about their Toyotas, dimensions, production figures, quirks of the model, that thread would be very valuable for people looking to buy, and just a hoot to read for the other members (almost bought an Odyssey Americana until I looked at the rubber roof, had I known it had one I could have saved a trip to Maine)...
What’s the issue with a rubber roof? My 1990 odyssey had one and it was in wonderful shape when I pulled it off. -
Hey folks, hope everyone is well in these strange times. The work continues on the Odyssey camper. We've got the white ceiling panels installed minus the joint covers, lights and fan/ac openings are cut out. Lights installed with temporary wiring and dimmer switch. The rear dinette framing is mostly built out. We did a partition design to separate the dinette a bit from the rest of the camper, the partition pieces are also structural, providing support from floor to ceiling to give a lot of support to the roof, especially around the air conditioner weight to prevent sag.
From the pics you can also see that we have knocked out a good amount of the upper cabinetry framing. We the elimination of the original refrigerator (which sat right next to the door from floor to ceiling when you walked into the camper), we gained a bunch of counter top space as well as overhead cabinet space.
Tomorrow we will frame out the lower cabinetry. The driver side of the truck will be the sink location and counter top somewhere around 36" wide between the dinette and the closet we designed. The passenger side of the vehicle will have the longgg counter top. We should have enough room to incorporate not only the Atwood stove but also the dometic dual zone 12v cooler/refrigerator under the counter top.
This thing is starting to come together! -
With some google searching you can see that this has been done many times in many ways
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On 5/4/2020 at 8:14 PM, Nam said:
Wow...this is going to be great! beside sweat equity...any idea roughly how much real $ has gone in so far?
Oh boy I don't want to think about it! I haven't been keeping a tab on receipts but we haven't been cheeping out on parts along the way. When I get nearer the end of the build I am going to try to get a rough estimate together on investment!
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That before and after photo is very satisfying, can’t wait to do mine!
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26 minutes ago, Bob B said:
Hi There! Had some really scary sway while on maiden voyage so trying to get her more reliable. Also the back is hanging really low. Took her to a nearby mechanic in NC and presented my thoughts for making more stable gleaned for Toyo forums. They recommended starting with the shocks and new tires. They quoted $500 for the rear shocks and $1000 for the front shocks, $500 for tires. I went to several mechanics before who told me they didn't have the capability to lift her up, so I am limited as to mechanic, though I would look further afield if prices seem way high. I am not able to do it myself, it sounds like a lot of people on here are mechanically able, me not at all. Does this sound reasonable? Should I ask them what kind of shocks and try to get a certain kind, like Bielsens? My Toyo has relatively low mileage and runs well even though I haven't had the time to take here anywhere lately except short rides. The RV part is Ok, but needs a lot of work and I'm not sure if I can afford her if just this part is already so much, so wanted to get some feedback. Thank you!
well for reference, my Bilsteins were $80 each and can be swapped in about 30 minutes with a simple jack and jack stand. -
Diodes it's gonna be!
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1 minute ago, Scott iv said:
Ask when the valves were last checked/ adjusted. Ask whether the machine has overheated since the current owner had it/ prior knowledge of it having overheated. I'd want to know why the stove was removed. Are there leaks in the propane system? If so, no camper heater either. Ask whether the transmission has ever been flushed. The machine is over 100,000 miles now. I'd look at the trans dipstick to see what color the fluid is. Consult with trans experts about whether they would recommend flushing or leaving the fluid at the 100,000 mile mark if it has never been done.
If only sellers would answer these questions honestly lol
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I have also seen this rig be sold "uncompleted" or being worked on multiple times, this is usually for a reason. Did they state why they're trying to sell?
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Ah okay, i'm familiar with that rig from its internet past. Honestly, if I were you, I'd pass. This is a straight up project rig for the mechanic hobbyist and gear head. AKA high maintenance and lots of work to keep her going and maintained. Highly custom and one of a kind means that you are going to have a hard time finding anyone to want to work on this if you don't have the mechanical skills yourself, and when you do they're gonna charge ya. Also, the high center of gravity from the custom lift looks pretty sketchy for any type of speed!
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We'd all love to see this rig for a better idea. I checked country wide craigslist and didn't see it! The only 4x4 sunrader I've been able to find for sale is this beauty.
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/rvs/d/south-san-francisco-1987-toyota/7110507461.html
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I wanted to get some other folks opinions on this for my project. I am going to have LED exterior lights on my odyssey 4x4 build. One front, one rear, and one on each side. Each will have their own dedicated switch in the cab of the truck, running off of the truck battery. I want to also install a single "emergency" switch in the coach of the camper to hit and light up all 4 lights instantaneously from the single switch. I would power the lights from this button to the coach battery. Does anyone have any advice regarding this type of setup? I am somewhat familiar with 3-way AC switches, but was curious if anything had any advice regarding my described setup on the 12v setup?
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I guess it depends on the reason you want it? Collectors value, cool factor, usability? Being a 4x4 gives it some advantages but these things are by no means off road machines. It’s still going to be expensive to fix and maintain no matter how clean, it’s old and things are gonna break. It’s gonna be super slow as well!
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9 minutes ago, Della said:
Good to know, so if I understand correctly I would not be able to get a spare tire to keep to replace a back flat on my own?
The 6 lug rims of that style are getting tough to find but they pop up here and there
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39 minutes ago, rabbit said:
Thanks, yeah I tested it with the engine running and it's 15 coming from the truck battery 15 coming out of the alternator to the isolator and then the isolator wires going to the house battery 7. This still doesn't solve my Shore power charging problem I don't think
As previously mentioned, if your wire from your isolator was going to the charger/converter rather than directly to the battery, it certainly would explain the shore issue if the charger/converter is malfunctioning. Isolator should be putting out more than 7 volts too.
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You need to test it with the vehicle running, the isolator is "closed" when engine is off and shouldn't be sending any power to coach battery. Turn truck on, isolator opens, isolator should send 12v+ to coach battery. Some smart isolators won't send power to coach battery until truck battery is at a certain "charged" voltage.
The 1990 Toyota Odyssey V6 4x4 that we call The Comvee (warning: long post with photos)
in Improvement and Do-It-Yourself Projects you have done to Share!
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Heck yeah, thanks for the encouragement! We are definitely putting our heart into this thing (lots of blood and sweat too). I've been itching to do a camper build for a few years and never thought I'd get the opportunity to own a 4x4 Toyota v6 RV! Having found this one, I am trying to do it how I want it, trying to do it right, and trying to ensure it lasts a long time and treats the owners after me well!