Odyssey 4x4

I would stick with the 22r, it is an engine that has been around long enough to prove itself. I would not call it "underpowered" considering it is a 4 cylinder hauling a motorhome, it does its job. Don't expect it to spin the tires leaving red lights. Mine cruises along just fine at 55-60 and if need be it will do 75 on the interstate if you don't mind sucking down more gas. If you're traveling you should just take the back roads anyways. I've never had a problem with climbing hills or mountains, it will just have to chug along on the steeper parts as others have said.

I agree, it gives a satisfaction to mind knowing you touched every part and bolt rather than wondering what could be going on inside of that engine from the past years of use and previous owners.

Thanks Linda, that is about what I assumed from looking at the pictures of the firestone bags.

Update, The motor has been completely built and has been running great through 3 tanks of petrol. I had my machine shop resurface the head and block, as well as bore and hone the cylinders (.50 over). I also installed an RV camshaft and had the proper springs put into my head. Everything went back together great and it runs awesome. Between the camshaft and bore, I certainly feel a slight boost in power and it cruises much nicer at around 55mph. The transmission had the new screen installed and the rear extension housing bushing replaced. Here are some pictures for fun... fresh from United Speedworld in Tampa, FL Ready to roll. All new seals, freeze plugs, engine components, timing chain, water pump, oil pump, gaskets, bearings, camshaft, etc. After an install and hooking everything up, the timing was adjusted as well as valve lash according to the FSM. The engine is driving great and I am continuing to put miles on it to break it in before I leave for an extended trip living in it while I travel across the US.

John, I read your thread as well as a few others on the airbags. I read your thread complete but did not see any information regarding if there were multiple makers of airbags for the Toyota micros. I know firestone has a kit as well. I was unsure as to the maker of my kit. From your pictures, my airbags look pretty similar to yours but I did not want to risk the money and time on ordering the incorrect bags. I was hoping to just find the repair kit rather than having to purchase a complete new set. Sorry if this is a redundant post, I was hoping for someone with more experience than I to be able to look at my bags and confirm if they were or were not the 3t's.

What I like about the Toyota is the simplicity and easy maintenance of the 22re engine. Anyone can fix it with a manual and they're so reliable.

My Escaper has had blown air bags on it since I purchased it. It's time to fix that and before I order I just wanted to get a verification that I am looking at the proper airbag replacement set. Here is a picture of the bag on the truck... If I am correct, these are 3-T airbags and I can order a repair kit (Part # T-9E3) for $287. Thanks for the help!

a taillight socket is no way connected to a CEL. Have you had the rig for a while? Is this a new problem? When they pulled codes on it, was the light on at that time?

leaving here from Florida in the next month or two. heading West!

Very nice. I am about to do the same with my girlfriend. I am just finishing my total engine rebuild. I have refurbished just about everything else on the camper.

Awesome link Linda, thanks!

Slide outs on a Toyota would be awesome. If you're a fabricator, a slide out really would not be that much work.

Now for the extraction of the broken bolts... This is what we started with... Started with a very small drill bit and bit right into the exact center of the remaining bolt in the threads. Dip the drill bit in transmission fluid to keep in lubricated. After one bit is completely through, we moved up a bit size and repeated the process, careful not to hit the threads. This is why it is crucial to stay centered. This is the type of thing that makes you nervous. You want to get the biggest drill bit through as you can without hitting the threads, this weakens the remainder of the bolt stuck inside. Once ready, we went in with our easy out. That's what I like to see... It couldn't have gone better. Now I just have to wait for parts. All of my engine parts are in and the block and head are ready for pick up. But we still had daylight so we found something else to do, let's figure out why the generator is running a tad rough. I've read that carb on the Onan Microlite 2800 is not possible to rebuild, only replace. Let's see what it looks like. Disconnected the lines, power, fuel lines, and bolts securing it in place, and slide the entire generator out. We then pulled the cover off of it. Yup that looks like a generator. Might as well replace the fuel pump while it's out, it could be the cause of the problem. Hello little carb. Carb out, bowl off... Now that is A LOT of trash in there... Plenty of gunk down in the seat. Ready for a good cleaning...no need to replace a carb just because it's dirty. Take that Onan. It will get a complete cleaning in the parts washer, new oil/spark plug/fuel pump and filter, and I bet she will run like new. It ran prior, just not how it should. I also climbed under my truck and saw that it still has the factory airbags, I'm gonna need to look up the part number for replacement bags and lines. That was it for the day. Plenty of fun! I'll be assembling the motor next week. Let me know what you folks think, I took all these pics just for you!

Time for an update with lots of pics and lots done... I started on this day with removal of my tail shaft extension housing. Much easier when the Transmission is out of the truck Lets get this thing started... Looks like my gasket held up...removal with a few taps. CAREFULLY tap the end piece off... This seal is hard to get off without damaging so I just used a screwdriver to pry it out, this is the cheap seal anyways. Here is the extension housing bushing, notice you can see where it is already getting hot in certain spots. This has to be from the lack of flowing radiator fluid through the cooler (which I confirmed did move just a tad amount of fluid through.) Then very carefully we drove the bushing out from the back side, it is crucial not to nick or scrape the internals of the extension housing where the bushing seats. The next step of the day was fixing the crimped radiator atf fluid cooler line... A blowtorch and some wrestling with a screwdriver and pick...(soaked the rag in water and hit with short bursts of heat) and a file and some sand paper later... Flare the ends a bit and that should have it, also confirmed flow through without any leaks inside. The next project of the day was removal of the transmission fluid pan. Unfortunately, 2 of the 14 bolts broke upon extraction. The small screen you see is the fluid filter that will be replaced.

My Escaper is a tad over 6' 2". I'm about 6' 1" and my head clears the ceiling but definitely not the ac, showers are taken sitting down in pure comfort.

It appears my radiator is not factory.

looks good, what type of antenna are you using?

I figured since going through nearly every other system in the truck, I might as well make sure the engine is tip top for a long upcoming travel. I look forward to hearing it purr along.

A quick update. Today I got the head and block bare and clean... And a transmission pulled... Next stop is the machine shop and ordering parts.

Since the engine is out of the truck I am going to go ahead and pull the transmission out and replace that seal in the back "just in case" and will fix the crimped line. I will keep the thread updated as the repair continues.

My Escaper has a very sturdy looking hitch I plan on using to haul a 300 pound motorcycle on with a hitch hauler. I am also installing firestone air bags in it to make sure it will handle the load on the back. I am sure the hitch on mine is a heavy duty hitch and I will get pictures of it next time I am under the truck this week.

The fluid is new as I have just replaced that seal and not driven it too much since then. It does in fact also have the aux cooler for trans fluid which is what saved the transmission. I will make sure to open this port and change transmission fluid. I will also likely replace the rear seal to have peace of mind. The transmissions works as it should so I doubt this has caused any thing to worry about other than the rear extension housing seal.

If only I knew!

I considered that this may have been the reason for the rear transmission extension housing seal taking a crap. As far as my toyota having lots of problems lets not forget that it is a 27 year old truck that sat for several years before my purchase The squashed fitting is just pure confusing considering it is obviously a factory crimp as clean as it is. That means whoever installed that radiator HAD to know that that line was crimped and still hooked up to it for some reason.

So can anyone give me any input on the line being crimped? Any reason why it would be like this?