Maineah
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Posts posted by Maineah
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They actually are good fridges they work on propane gas, and DC while you are driving. Parked you can just plug in and run it on a power point! It is not the type of fridge that you can just open the door and take 15 minutes to decide what's for dinner though. I will add if the tube is hot that only means the burner is working it doesn't mean the fridge is OK.
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They were famous for bound cables and internal parking brake levers rusting up primarily because they were never used most people just put them in park and called it good. Because the rear brake valve on the MH is all ready in max brake mode because of the camper weight it probably is not an issue.
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This is nothing like a electric fridge it takes a long time for any thing to happen. Yeah it is possible it's toes up but give it a good hour then open the freezer door and see it it's good and cold if so come back in a hour or 2 and check the fridge. Even working properly they make no noise. If it flunks the test they generally are repairable and have good deal of merit some have switch to dorm fridges it's up to you but the RV has all the necessary stuff to make it work all ready.
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If you are switching to LED's the wiring is more than sufficient they draw a good bit less current. Even a 100 watt H4 is fine with a #16 wire. Now you lamps are sealed beams so they are what they are. In order to use an H4 the lamps will not work meaning they will have to be replaced with a lamp for an H4. Beware of cheap Chinese replacements there photometrics suck. The MH is not a race car and blubs in general have improved a new set of head lamps alone will brighten your night. I live in rural Maine the average speed around here on back roads is like 50! Yes I have 100 watt H4's (with no wiring mods) in my Tacoma the deer and moose thank me.
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Yes they are 6 volt batteries I didn't see that, but the draw down problem is the same one bad battery will effect both even if one is brand new. Golf cart batteries actually are a good choice for a limited space MH a lot more amp hours than a single battery and they are deep cycle. Yes they are heavy (twice the weight of a single group 27) but on the plus side a great deal more current for pretty much any thing you want to ever run. Yes a pair will run 300+ but they will last a LOT longer too and far more robust set up. Twin 6 volts are simple wiring find the ground cable connect it to the convent negative camper post on one battery on the second battery turn it to face the positive camper cable. You will have two battery posts left over join them together with the left over short cable one will be positive the other negative this is how you make 12 volts with 2, 6 volt batteries.
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Yeah most parts outfits have pretty decent testers. The batteries are most likely group 24's standard lead acid they should fill your power needs. By changing battery chemistry it may open a can of worms and can involve different chargers etc.
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If you have 2 batteries and one has a bad cell they will try to equalize drawing the good battery down also. They need to be tested under a load one at a time to determine what one is bad. It is very possible both are toes up due to age. The only thing that will work is a load test voltage can be deceiving no load.
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What you need is "split loom" for your wires it is available in various diameters. It has slit in the side to get the wires in so it's after the fact very easy to work with standard scissors will cut it.
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Pump doesn't care what ever works for you. They work fine upside down.
pump doesn't care
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On 1/5/2022 at 7:49 PM, thewanderlustking said:
Finally got my check engine light working... I got a code 11 now that the light flashes. But timing doesn't appear to ever "lock."
Will it throw 11 if the TPS is adjusted wrong and the engine is on/running without the TPS in the closed position?
And does the timing lock at 5 if the TPS is not correctly adjusted? With mine hot and running, a blip of the throttle sent it moving right along.
At work, I found some docs/repair reports saying to time it to 15 degrees without the jumper. I snagged this from the LCEgineering timing article. Can anyone verify that the far left pointer/mark is 15?
Because the pully turns clockwise I would say that is correct.
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Stick with the stock one they are amazingly tough transmissions. Any thing else will be a serious pain to make work cables, adaptors etc. Just look at the work those poor overloaded transmission have done in 10's of thousands of over weight vehicles. In the fact that one has been apart it kind of leads me to believe whom ever did the overhaul missed some thing. The only problems I remember with them was the governor bore ware caused by a worn output shaft bushing. If only shutters in reverse kinda points to a reverse clutch pack. Drop the pan I think you will find a lot of brown gook. The jeep trans was an AX15 the Toyota version was the R151 no clue if they were interchangeable in that case fly wheel, clutch, bell housing, different pedals, linkage etc. I kind of remember 3rd gear issues with the AX15 all so.
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The lever that the cable attaches too has a tendency to rust up in the backing plate pretty common.
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Bottom line no. the other end is entirely different hand fit.
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I'm going say the reverse clutch pack is toast. That is an all clutch transmission it has no bands, reverse clutch pack is all by it's self no relation to the forward clutch pack. It is a lower ratio so it's less likely to slip. Rear brakes with drums should actually be less likely to lock going backwards because of the leading trailing brake shoe setup. That trans did have issues also with the rear support bushing but that effected all ranges. Haven't done one of those transmission in close to 20 years but something is sticking in the dust in my brain about reverse clutch.
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Blocks of wood, jacks from scrapped Asian cars (more often than not the scarp yards will give them too you) Like WRE said they are not for lifting that's why I carried bits of PT wood. The toy home is not that heavy you can drive up on a 1X6 then use the jacks. I welded two Asian scissors jacks to the rear fame it keep it from rocking and roiling all you need to do is take a bit of weight off the suspension.
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Maybe on a dead flat road with a tail wind. I did use the auto trans like a manual because that was what I was used too but with the weight and wind drag on a under powered brick it was seldom used.
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I locks unlocks over drive (4th). Probably 95% of the time with the Toy home it should be off they just don't have the power for the weight.
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I had a 914! Bought it to establish credit years ago and then sold it at a profit! The 914 6 wasn't a half bad little car!
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What I did for my RV solar is a aluminum frame work it allows me to turn it into the sun and elevate it also it folds flat and I transport it on the bed. Don't know what you intend to power but I get all the power I need with a single 100 watt panel it keeps both of my batteries fully charged for over night water pump ham radios lighting etc. The power cord is stranded #10 wire for power loss reasons It plugs into Anderson power pole right at the batteries or the other one at the rear.
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Well you are part way there with no cat. The erg reduces NOX and a bad one with a cat is a big no no. Yes it has an effect on mileage if it's open all the time.
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I believe that is a 914 Porsche/VW engine at 1.7 liter 80 HP The 2 liter was in that vintage also and could have been a 100HP!
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Well if it's on the lift and has a sump full of antifreeze the next step would be to push it off and head the bone yard looking for a used engine antifreeze is a terrible lubricant and is going to be on the bottom instead of oil and the pump doesn't care of it oil or antifreeze! The end of 22re came in 95 26 years ago! If you can don't put it off it only gets worse.
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If it is a 22re it is a single roller chain good for about 100K and left alone it will eventually beat the guides and tensioner to death. I have seen them even beat the timing case to the point of causing an antifreeze leak into the sump because the water pump is right there. I turned wrench's for 38 years and can't tell you how many 22re chains I have done. Reading the comments on the prices for the job made my head spin. You do not have to remove the head or the oil pan to do it on the cheap, shoot I have done them in my back yard. I'm going to say there probably thousands of mechanics out there that have never even seen a 22re! If it's rattling at idle it needs a chain don't put it off. The older 22r's were double roller chains and would out last the engine.
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Because they are from a country that had lot's of diesels from that vintage that's the way they are marked diesel or not. Very few made it to the US.
Rebuild Begining Middle End
in General Discussion
Posted
The clutch pack is not engaged how ever flat towing produces no lube to any thing inside and some parts still spin, the same is true for a manual in neutral not advised for any distance with the drive shaft still connected on any vehicle!