Maineah
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Posts posted by Maineah
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I will tell you this Toyota does not consider it hot unless it's into the red zone. So you really need to check the coolant temp with an accurate gauge 180-190 is normal.
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What is hot? Gauge up in the red?
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AC breaker will be 20 Amp on a #12 wire it would seem likely to be factory wired AC or not because they never know what one will need to have AC.
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Do the chain and guides mind you the guides are coated they are not steel on steel or they wouldn't last a month they are good to 150K so by the time you need to do it again you would need a major over haul any way no sense changing to a double roller there are a lot of other parts you would need other than just the chain to convert it. The oil pump is part of the chain cover it is the first thing that sees oil I have never seen a bad one.
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Dude you got a miss fire!
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Well with all of them out it's a supply issue. I'm going to guess that they have their own fused circuit. The logic would be the truck lights were all ready wired before they put a house in it's back.
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Good as any better than some!
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Testing my memory, I believe there is a fuse for the alt. exciter. Does the big alt. terminal show matching battery voltage?
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That is a very popular transmission variant used in every rear wheel drive Toyota. If they can't find it it's only because they are not looking. Lookup ATRA transmission in your neighbor hood they are independent shops and have nation wide members to stand behind their rebuilds. Switching to a manual would be quite a task. They had some issues with governor bores but that was reparable.
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I believe they are both the same. Those are pretty tough transmissions rebuilder near by?
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The isolator is just that, it's purpose it to isolate the coach battery from truck battery the ideal is to not end with a dead truck battery, the next morning. So with the key off the batteries are separated once the truck is started the isolator turns on and charges both batteries. The small wire gets a signal from the truck turning the isolator on as soon as it is running. If you asked for an isolator relay that is most likely what you got not some they sell every day. Several heaver wires is not unusual on the truck side, the isolator it is a convenient spot to hook them up.
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2 hours ago, Terry406 said:
Thanks, I didn't attach any ground to the isolator, as it does ground through the case to the body when I bolted it on. The new isolator has four bolts on it, the two large ones on each side and two smaller ones labeled I and s. I connected the alternator wire and the positive battery wire from the engine compartment to one of the large terminals on the side of the isolator. Then ran the other side of the isolator through a 30 amp automatic circuit breaker to the coach battery. I didn't use either of the I and S smaller terminals on the isolator, it's not sure what those two are for I think the S is for accessory, not sure about the connector labeled I. But I'm fairly certain neither one are ground, as it grounds to the chassis when I bolted it on. So the other large connector coming out of the other side of the isolator leads back to my coach battery box through a 30 amp automatic circuit breaker. Now, there are three other ring connectors that go to the coach battery, so in total, there are 4 positive and one ground wires with ring connectors in the coach battery compartment. Does that sound correct? I've crawled up underneath it trying to trace all five of the wires, they all disappear into a harness and for some unknown reason, come out of the harness a totally different color, like white changes to Black inside of the harness or vice versa. The only one I can see, attaches to the frame so I know it's ground, all of the other 4 certainly appear to be positive, to hook to the coach battery. Does that sound correct? Thanks so much for your responses. When I got this sunrader, it had no coach battery installed just the wiring in the coach battery box. Also had no isolator, just a wire coming from the coach battery box through the 30 amp automatic breaker, and the wire coming off the other side of the 30 amp automatic breaker cut. With no isolator at all. That's why I bought and installed the isolator, and I'm trying to get the coach battery wired up. Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Thank you...
Pictures would help.
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7 hours ago, Terry406 said:
DON'T attach any ground wires to the isolator, as it's grounded when you bolt it to your firewall.
Some are 4 terminal you will need a ground wire if so, but the relay frame will do as a ground provided it is.
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If the GFI is tripping the GFI is a AC issue. Nothing battery powered light's, fans etc. If you have things plugged in unplug them all of them, plug the camper back in and what happens. If the GFI doesn't trip plug them in one at a time. The AC is line powered and fridge possibly is too make sure they are off. It is possible your converter can cause tripping but only on the AC side. Older GFI were finicky and had a lot off tripping issues if all else fails replace it they are cheap. Coach wiring color is not industry standard you might find any thing. Usually white is ground black is + it's more common but you can't count on it. My Nova Star + was blue and ground was green.
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200 pound block of ice and a DC fan. A 2200 watt Honda would run a small RV AC but not much more.
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5 hours ago, ChrisMichael said:
I might have not stated what I meant clearly, but the wiring typically found up near the ceiling for an 110VAC powered air conditioner is only rated to about 15A. This unit, at 12VDC requires up to 700W, or ~60A. Pushing 60A through a wire only rated to 15A could very easily melt it and start a fire. You’d have to use the thicker 6AWG wiring that comes with the unit (it’s pre-fused at 80A too) in order to safely pull 60A of current at 12V from a battery bank within 15ft of the Air Conditioner. Any further and you’d need to step up to an even thicker cable.
I doubt the unit would even run! The AC wiring is a #12 wire good for 20 amp AC or DC fine for 120 volt unit! Running a #6 times 2 inside a MH is going to be a real treat. Any thing 120 volts to 12 volts the current factor is times 10, so 5 amps becomes be comes 50 at the lower voltage.
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The 48 volt supply is a dead giveaway that thing is going to draw a lot of current! At 12 volts the cable would be 4 times the size! You could use 4 batteries to make 48 volts but you are still looking at around 85amps. Golf carts typically use 48 volt chargers that could help deal with the charging system with 4 series wired batteries. How do you intend to deal with this on the road?
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Like your big pup. Looks like a Dane to me yes? We just ended up with a 110lb female not long ago, Great Dane #5! One used to sleep with me in the cab over bed when we went camping! You will enjoy the MH all of them are getting long in the tooth but it sounds like you get a pretty nice one. The inner wood frame of the door rots, very common on all MH, I have rebuilt several and use pressure treated ripped to size as long as the metal is good it really is an easy rebuild.
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I'm going to guess thermo couple.
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Huge difference in fuel pressure by a factor of 10 between EFI and carburetor be sure of what you have before replacing fuel lines.
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Had an 87 Nova Star very well built and designed MH. See If you can find a 6 bolt front wheel setup that would finish it.
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They are pretty tough engines and transmissions. The 22RE had single roller timing chains so a chain and guides around 125K. The transmissions are pretty tough also their issues were tail shaft bushings if it's leaking fluid at the rear seal it needs to be fixed as soon as possible.
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Here is what you can try, tacomaworld.com. There are hundreds of posters from all over the country and the world for that matter. Some one knows who you can try for engine work.
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Yes there will be resistance at the fuses to ground. What you need to do is check the voltage at the fuses, the power not plugged in the voltage comes directly from the coach battery. Check the voltage at that battery the fuses should match the battery or pretty close to it. Boon docking running off the coach battery can turn into a big load rather easily light bulbs make better heaters than lamps. Blower motors for the coach heater suck up a lot of power. The fridge on DC is a power hog.
110 v dorm/mini fridge
in Electrical
Posted
Even DC you still are using electricity to make it cool. Propane has a lot more energy than a battery.