Maineah
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Posts posted by Maineah
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Pretty simple job probably would be easer to just replace it your self and be done with it. I might get some arguments but there is no reason you can not use the semi universal one with the crimp on wire you should be able to buy one for around $20 to fit the Toyota and it will take about 20 minutes to replace it. I assume it is bad? They do get lazy with age.
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Should fit any Toyota truck with a carb. 4 runners, pickups 2 and 4 wheel drive.
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Hello All,
During my Labor Day three day road trip, I was entertaining myself by thinking what
features a next generation (21st Century) Motorhome could have and came up with the
following:
I was thinking that the RV industry could use a Toyota motorhome as a template or
baseline and do the following to get us up to 25+ mpg on a 22 to 24 foot motorhome:
1) Replace pickup truck chassis with a true motorhome chassis.
2) Replace the 1990s V6 3.0L 150 hp engine with modern 150 hp gasoline engine or a
modern diesel engine
3) Replace the 1990s transmission with a modern transmission (either a 5- or 6-speed automatic,
or a 5- or 6-speed manual)
4) Replace the fiberglass sheet skin with an Airstream skin
5) Make the Motorhome a bit more aerodynamic (less air drag)
6) Have a hard sided push up roof (like the Alaska truck campers), this will lower the height
while driving by about two feet or more. (but have the option to be able to drive with it up)
7) Use more modern lightweight materials
8) Replace the rear duallies tires with higher capacity single tires. (less drag)
In summary, there should be better replacement items to use today than what was used
18 years ago.
Each of the above should be able to add 1 or 2 mpg each to the baseline 15 mpg that a
Toyota V6 with automatic has. The diesel engine item alone should be able to add 3 to 4 mpg.
Also, I realize that a Sprinter 24 foot motorhome has some of the above features, but only
gets 16-18 mpg with a diesel engine, the initial 22mpg advertisement was quickly pulled, due
to not being true.
Just some on the road thoughs...
The Sprinter with the 5 cylinder diesel would get 19/20 the newer 6 not as good 16/18 I keep looking at them but they are not cheap can't bring my self to part with 50 grand for a used MH. What I though would make a fantastic MH would be the little cab over diesel box trucks. Years ago I put a clutch in a BMW diesel powerd pop up hard sided MH and for the life of me I can't remember what they were called but they were not much taller then a car either they were very expencive or not much good because they did not last long.
Dennis...
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Yeah that is pretty much what the floors are hopefully your pump access won't be right under a cross member for the coach. I was thinking of a boat hatch because once closed they are pretty water proof and can be opened again if nessary. Some are twist lock (no hinge) so it would help with space restrictions. Well I hope you are lucky and have a straight shot to the pump. If the pump starts to run you may even get away with it like I said they are pretty tough pumps not like the ones on an older GM product.
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Good deal sounds like you have done your home work. I often wonder why they do not take in account that some day it maybe necessary to deal with the fuel pumps of course the coach maker does not care about truck maintenance. Try hooking your jumper back up and giving the tank a tap with a rubber hammer if it starts running then you know it’s a pump issue. I wonder if you could find some thing like a hatch cover at a boat yard they do make some nice round ones out of plastic.
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How sure are you that the pump is bad? They are pretty tough and seldom go bad, there is a lot of wiring and controls that are part of the plan. Have you checked to see if you have power at the pump? You will have to get a friend to help because just turning the key on will not start the pump it has to be cranked.
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Good luck have fun and let us know how you made out with the wiring it is an interesting problem that does not make too much sense.
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Have you tried the generator to see if the breaker trips on the generator?
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What’s the chance that the converter wires are backwards (white/black) or does this thing just plug in? If it trips the breaker with every thing off it still can be the converter wiring because if I’m not mistaken it’s wired to the input side of the main camper breaker. Does this thing have a socket for the shore power that you plug into the camper for the generator or a transfer system? If it’s a transfer system (relay) I wonder if it is back feeding the generator?
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Saw a port some where when he first started. He is using a Lexus V8 and Lexus automatic. Bet that was not cheap but I'll bet it will be worth it.
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Should not have any effect. Does the extension cord have factory ends on it? Can you plug in you 30 amp cord and adapter to the house? Is the breaker a GFI breaker? All this worked fine at the camp ground so I can't see a problem with the transfer system. Try turning off your MH breakers and see what happens if it works turn them back on one at a time and see if one trips the breaker that will narrow it down.
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Regarding my comment on the paper gasket, the point I was trying to make is it seams to be
a little on the weak side to use a paper gasket to hold back rear end fluid, wouldn't Toyota
used a little heavier/beefer gasket material, along with some sealant?
Wouldn't the rear end oil break the paper gasket down over time?
Dennis...
This is where the Toyota extra seal comes in, There is no real pressure the rear is vented some of the larger stuff has rubber backed gaskets but they never have been a problem area as far as leaks. Most of the paper type gaskets are oil resistant. I knew when I started this there would be controversy I for one am not going to take the axle out to pack the bearings until it is time for brakes and I expect to get 60K or more out of them. I have had just too many floating rears apart to worry about bearing failure the bearings that are inside of the rear never get packed, gear oil is a great bearing lube.
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In my Toyota Shop Manual, it shows an inner seal, inner bearing, outer bearing and axle.
The 1/2 ton has an outer seal. The paper gasket is to keep the bearing grease from leaking past the axle cap.
The SIX bolt axle REQUIRES HAND packing of all 4 bearings
The inner seal keeps the gear oil from getting past the hub and running all over your breaks. The paper gasket keeps it from running all over your wheels. Yes it does require packing when they are new or been cleaned and are dry. I guess my point is for you don't disturb them they will roll for a very long time. If you are concerned about your break lining there is a small plug in the backing plate at the outter edge of the drum that will allow you to see the lining.
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When I pulled my axles last year to check out the brake shoes, one of my bearing
did not have any rear end fluid, only backing grease. When I pulled the other, the
packing grease was washed away, due to rear end fluid getting it. I replaced the
oil seals on this one.
It the outter oil seal is NOT to keep the rear end fluid away from the bearings, than
what is it designed for? I have a friend that works on Chevy and Ford duellies and
they do not have the outter seal that Toyota has.
Also, if the rear end fluid is to lube the bearings, then why do we only have a paper
gasket on the axle?
Dennis...
That is correct Toyota is the only one I have ever seen with the extra seal. If they are not lubed by the rear how did the oil get in there? Why would Toyota build a rear that had to be serviced when every one else does not? The grease most likely kept the oil from saturating the bearing the one that had the oil in it was doing it's job. The paper gasket is to keep the oil from getting past the axle and running all over your wheels thats where Toyota puts the extra seal. The only way gear oil could be kept out of the bearings would be to have a seal on the axle where it meets the axle tube. There is a huge amount of stress on rear truck bearings grease has no real viscosity where the 90 weight does it can keep the bearings lubed for hundreds of thousands of miles. Ford,Chevy, Mopar and every big truck lubes their bearings with gear oil.
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On going about the rears. Yes 30,000 miles on the fronts or brake job what ever comes first.
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NO...NO....NO on the Six bolt both the rear bearings on EACH side are packed, NOT splashed lubed
This could spark a good debate if that is the case it is the only full floating rear made that is.
Toyota uses an extra seal that others do not it is not to keep the oil from lubing the bearings it's to keep the oil from coming past the axle. New or clean bearings need to be packed to keep them alive until the oil can reach them.
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I guess you mean packed? When I do the front breaks I repack the bearings also, so I guess it's safe to say 30K would be a good figure. It involves removing the caliper and brake rotor so if you are not comfortable with that maybe a shop is in order. If you don't know when or if ever do it. The rears are oiled by the gear oil in the rear (6 lug) and don't need to be packed.
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It’s a bit on the expensive but if you never again want to deal with clearance lights switch to led’s. The wiring is daisy chained (only one power feed and ground wire) so if one works they all should. Your wiring maybe a bit different but that generally is the way they are wired. Bad grounds are usual a good place to start, the holder for the bulb leaves a lot to be desired very weak point clean inside of where the bulb fits and the little contact at the back of the bulb. For years I have fought with clearance lights and decided that the led’s were looking real good I bought 10 from the local NAPA parts dealer for around a $100.
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Hey Mike great engine for the Toyota. The complete engine weights about 300# (I had a TR8) only draw back is the bell housing it is weird so just about any thing would involve an adapter plate nothing GM made except the Buick 3.5 would fit. Years back we put them in the MGC because the 6 was problematic but it involved some adapter engineering to mate up to the trans. Rover fixed the problems GM had with that engine and they make great swaps.
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Good explanation nibs. Basically push the button in when the transmission starts to shift a lot back and forth in the hills until you get back on the flat land again then turn it back on. Expect it to shift some times at speed on slight hills that’s ok.
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The early 5 spd's were iron case units and it was not that the bearings might fail it was when (tops of 30K miles). My guess is that they all are now melted down in to some thing else. The later 5 spds were overdriven, 4 being direct (1 to 1) and 5th overdriven. I frankly don't think you will see much improvement the power is just not there even if you drop the rpm's you'll be shifting in and out of 5th a lot just too much wind resistance to gain much speed. It will be quieter and maybe save a little fuel if you can keep it in 5th. Moosepucky's right that maybe a lot of bucks for little bang.
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Is your new converter part of the original unit or completely separate? There is a grounding lug on the converter that hooks to the ground on your shore power often hooked to other things in the camper and the truck frame. Most camp sites have ground fault breakers and if it’s wired wrong it should trip. It sure sounds like you have some thing backwards can you check the converter ground and see if there is 120 volts to shore ground? Try not to get in between the two in case there is! Then check to be sure if it is grounded to the ground pin on your shore power. That will tell you if some thing is wrong. Also there is a pack of ground wires for the coach 12 volt ground in the fuse panel maybe one of them is not properly seated and that’s your 12 volt wiring ground issue.
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Was not I Fupi. I know hydrogen stuff has been done but I don't know enough to comment about it.
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I think your tire size should be 165X70X14 that may account for your spedo issue. There are two size torsion bars use the large ones.
Oxygen Sensor
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
Posted
If the sensor is bad yes it can affect mileage and a noticeable amount. Generally if they are bad they will throw a code and light the check engine light if you have a volt meter it is a simple check. D/C scale lowest setting check between the green sensor wire and ground once your engine is warmed up and idling . Your voltage should be very active ranging between 0 and 1 volt (generally around .2 to .8) if it hovers at one voltage and does not move much replace it.