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Maineah

Toyota Advanced Member
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Posts posted by Maineah

  1. Propane tank pressure changes with temperature that is what the regulator is for. It usually ranges between 100 to 200 PSI. The regulator is there to keep it at a constant pressure so the regulator is designed to supply what ever is required for it's proper use so obviously you want a regulator for what ever appliance you are using they have different demands. The regulated pressure is measured by an inch of water gauge not pressure some where between 11 and 14". 

  2. 1 hour ago, fred heath said:

    So scary, for so many reasons. You’re going to hang 30 lbs. of additional (explosive) weight onto the back of an already weak hinge setup. What are you going to anchor the tank to? Not the fiberglass door I hope. How are you going to refill the tank once installed? I can’t see the propane guy using a step ladder to reach your tank.

     

    Tanks need to be anchored to a heavy duty, unmoving surface such as your frame rails or something similar. Anything else is an invitation to disaster.

    Yep do it right or leave it alone.

  3. Two  group 24 batteries and a 100 watt portable panel. The panel is in a home made aluminum frame that folds flat and lives on the bed. I can elevate it and turn it to face the sun. Had about 12 feet of #10 SJ left over bit of over kill but it was free. The camper has power pole connectors both ends and the controller is on the panel.

  4. 16 hours ago, DeepEndFrog said:

    Thank you Fred, points taken.  I probably should have made a video/audio recording of it running under load.  When I tested it, I would also run the rooftop AC, and it didn't have any issues that I noticed.  But agree that the ideal would be for a prospective buyer to be able to test it out for themselves.    

     

    Maineah, I like the "put it on casters" visual -- do you just bring a fuel can separately and drop the fuel line into it?

    Yes, they do have electric fuel pumps so it's just a matter of sticking a hose in a tank ours is a little more elaborate because there are people around it so it's a perminate setup. The 4000 is pretty hefty it needs to be on wheels two people can pick it up but it's not fun. The 2.8 would make a nice backup power box with little effort, heat, water pump etc. for some one.

  5. You got to realise all of this is not instant, there is a small window, on gas you should see a small blue flame there is a push button on the panel that has to be pushed to light the burner maybe several times. Once you see the flame it should work. Do not expect it to cool in anything less that several hours.

  6. 1 hour ago, Andrewups said:

    Thanks for idea with 12v, I definitely need to ad it on my fridge also.

    Usually they have 3 different choices gas, 12 volts and 120 AC. Yours is fairly new so it probably has 3 choices. The biggest issue with gas is the flame blowing out, the system will turn off the gas but that won't keep you stuff cool. I have never had a unit that did that from motor home to full size camper but it is possible. The actual flame is kinda candle size it is the most efficient of the lot, electric heating is a power hog by comparison.    

  7. The fridge will take an overnight to cool no matter how you power it. They are totally different than a household fridge. It has no blower and make no noise. They are absorison fridges some thing that went south decades ago. They do work fine in acamper just give it some time they are slow to cool no matter how they are powered.

  8. Mice, they love to chew on wires. Usually things like that don't just go bad. The nasty buggers chewed through my camper 120 volt power cord right down to the copper where it went inside. Bucket of death, the next morning 6 drowned mice.

     

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