zero
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Posts posted by zero
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I put new brakes in my 1988 with the factory installed dually and a 22RE. Also put brakes in the rear of a 1987 dually box-truck. Also put brakes in the rear of a U-Haul V6 box truck. Parts were the same for all three. My comments about the "3W" were for a 1987 with a 22RE. I also included later model codes for V6 trucks that do not have "3W." The point is not the "3W" for all trucks. Just about using the model code, whatever it is IF available. I have not found variations in brake parts for any of the full-floating dually rears, regardless of year or engine in the OEM truck it came from (if not just an update that was stand-alone).
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7 hours ago, Gulfstream Greg said:
Getting fuel has it's adventures also.
Even with no trailer in back, fuel is still often an "adventure." At least where I go in the Michigan UP. Hard to find diesel to start with, and when I do - pretty hard to tell if it's a big-rig pump or an automotive pump. My Dodge can handle fuel from a big-rig pump, but my Ford cannot.
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7 hours ago, Gulfstream Greg said:
2002 F350 dully Crew cap with a flatbed dump. Right around 9500 lbs empty. 20 and 40 gal fuel tanks. Only 135k miles on it. Trailer 2002 Fleetwood Prowler. The biggest pains in the rear is having to go to a store while en-route. As you can see by the pic not really a single space machine. Getting fuel has it's adventures also. Finding a fast food place that can accommodate can also be fun. The truck to hitch ball 21ft, trailer 27ft. All that said it drives really well and easy. If we were not hauling Grand kids around and re-locating to Oregon our toy would be perfect. And since we may be living in a trailer for awhile we are considering getting one a couple feet longer with a slideout.
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4 minutes ago, Todd Lambiotte said:
where do i find the model code ?
If I open the hood on my 1988, the tag is on the upper part of the firewall, facing me - on a metal tag. Here is what my 88 tag looks like;
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Some parts examples for a 1987 model code 3W at the end, with dual rear wheels..
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The model code, not the VIN is the sole determining factor to get correct parts. Not always used by parts databases though. Some Toyota databases will start with a VIN and then narrow things down with the model code. You have a HD cab & chassis DLX truck with a model code that ends in "3W." It gets confusing since parts databases do not use one agreed to standard to show the correct truck chassis.
I don't know what your model code is for your 1987. Might be the same for an 88, but you'll have to look at your own code-tag. Here are some examples of the other years.
A 1978 Toyota motorhome uses a RN28L-KRA3(W) cab & chassis.
A 1983 motorhome uses a RN44L KRA 3W or a RN44 KDA 3W.
A 1985 uses a RN55L-KREA 3W or a RN55L-KDEA 3W.
A 1988 uses a RN55L-KREA3W or RN55L-KRTEA3W or RN75L-KRTEA3W or RN55L-SRA3W or RN55L-SRTEA3W or RN75L,-PDTEA3W
A 1990 uses a VZN85L-TRSREA6 or VZN85L-TWSREA6 or VZN95L-TWSREA6 or VZN85L-TRMREA6 or VZN85L-TWMREA6 or VZN95L-TWMREA6
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You order parts for a Toyota dual-wheel cab & chassis truck with a model code ending in 3W. I have no trouble finding correct parts. Rock Auto is one of the easiest. NAPA used to have a good parts database where you could narrow your search to a dual-wheel, cab & chassis truck. No more though. Brakes can stick when they get brake fluid or gear oil on them. Not the only cause, but certainly a common one.
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I've got a F250 with a 7.3 turbo diesel. 4WD, 4.10 axles, extended cab, 8 foot bed, gooseneck hitch, etc. Gets 9-11 MPG pulling a 10,000 lb. trailer. Gets 14 MPG, doing 70 MPH with a pop-up slide-on camper on the back. Empty at 70 MPH it gets 17-18 MPG.
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9 hours ago, Brynn&Cas said:
the ac is the original and is 13,500 btu. Our generator is a Coleman powermate with a 1800 running watts and a 2250 max watts, which we are looking to upgrade to the Honda eu2000i.
Why do you think switching to the smaller, less powerful Honda generator is an upgrade? One possible variable here is if your Coleman is not really putting out what it should. I doubt it though. My experience with the Coleman Pulse and Powermates is they are noisy but work well. One "by ear" test is if the generator sounds like it works hard before it trips the breaker? If not, maybe the breaker is worn out. In ref. to soft-start kits - from tests I've read - the Supco is pretty worthless, but the Dometic works well (and is also very expensive).
The reality is - a 13,500 AC unit can draw near 8000 watts for a fraction of a second when first starting, and level out to 1800-2100 watts when running. How can you expect a Honda rated for 1600 watts to run that well? I think the smallest on-board generators ever sold to use in these RVs were rated 2500 watt continuous and over 3000 watts surge. Seems you either need a smaller AC unit, or a bigger generator. I'd pick the Harbor Freight or a Hyundai if it was up to me.
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On 8/11/2016 at 7:38 PM, Motordome said:
The original spring perches are still welded to the axle tube...but not for long
As far as setting the preload on the wheel bearings is concerned I followed the Toyota manual to the extent possible,right wrong or in between. I have come to realize that the guys that built whatever I'm working on know more about it than I do. Yes I am sure there are shortcuts (as with most things) but I am also sure I haven't worked on enough Toyota axles to know them.
Not really a "shortcut. " Just what I'll call something "missing" from the Toyota tech manual. Note that the factory manual says that when all done with the spring-scale settings - you MUST check for axial play and make sure there is none . What the manual does NOT mention is what to do if there IS axial play. Simple answer is - just tighten until you hit zero - like any adjustable cup-and-cone bearing setup on near any truck, front or back axles.
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36 minutes ago, Maineah said:
If you have or can find all of these things so cheap why don't you put them up for sale on this site?
I've offered people from this site working refrigerators many times. Last time I offered one for $25 and offer was not taken. One big problem is shipping costs for something that large and heavy. I also want nothing to do with trying to make a profit selling any used appliances. If I have something extra here and someone needs it - fine. Sometimes I give stuff away for free. Not interesting in trying to make money doing it. Too time consuming and often a cause of hard-feelings. I had a guy from this forum come to my place for a used and working A43D. I offered it to him for free. He was nice enough to try to pay me anyway but I did not accept. I figure that with many things - if I give it away - no one can complain later and maybe someone will be helped out. I come across used working 3-way refrigerators often. Often free for the taking if I am willing to remove from an RV being junked. I used to do it but no more. Not worth the bother;. I see no shortage of them and I already likely have a lifetime supply for myself.
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Yes, same name but quite different. I have no idea if the "Mirage" name was bought, or just a coincidence that someone else used the same name later. Kind of like the company that sold a "Micro-Mini" as the actual model name (1977, Keystone Coach Company in Florida).
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Also a magazine road-test showing the floor-plan on a 1979 Mirage.
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25 minutes ago, Totem said:
has anyone posted the floor plans to these models? Ive never seen one in person. its the one RV i always hope to see at a rally and never shows.
Here are some inside photos of an 84 Mirage.
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I've seem at least three distinct versions of the micro-minis as well as other Mirages. Quite different in 1979, as compared to 1984. The "Eagle" is the one with the big hatch. Note the photo in the magazine with the Mirage top-left and 64 Goat right-bottom. I had a 64 that looked just like that with a 389 and tri-power.
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On 8/9/2016 at 10:58 AM, Back East Don said:
Water pump is 16100-39346-83 for the oem but Rock Auto also carries the Aisin and Beck Arnley for about half. Any recommendations here?
Water-pump life is determined by the quality of the rotary seal and the sealed-bearing assembly. Aisin is the OEM supplier to Toyota for water-pumps. I seriously doubt that Aisin somehow finds superior bearings and seals to only use in Toyota-branded water-pumps and uses less-quality parts in those they put their own company name on.
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What happened to the original spring perches? (maybe I missed it somewhere in the posts).
I find using a spring-scale to set the bearings a waste of time and too subject to erroneous readings. In the end - all Toyota wants is zero end-play. No end-play and no to little preload. That's why in the Toyota manual - at the end - it says there should be no "axial play." So, it seems they are admitting that even with the spring-scale use - it may be wrong when done.
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33 minutes ago, jjrbus said:
I am struggling along here, I started having some issues with the Honda, sitting for years with occasional usage has gummed up the works. A friend insisted that Seafoam would clean it right up
I've yet to figure why so many seem to think Seafoam has magical properties. Great marketing, it seems. All it is is Naptha oil. I see it's claims similar to rebuilding an engine with Bon Ami soap-powder (used to be a common practice).
A comment on Asian generators. At least most I've been in contact with. For reasons I cannot fully explain, I find that even with the best of care, fresh gas every year, drain before put-away or Stabil added - they have problems after storage. On many Hondas, Yamahas, Subarus, and a myriad of Chinese off-brands - I have to pull the carb bowl off near every season. Then blow compressed air through ever tiny orifice, and and then all works fine. Let it sit for a year or so and have to do it all over again. Not just generators either. Near all small Asian engines I've worked on. I have a lawn-mower I got new three years ago that I kind of liked when first saw it because of how "coventionally old fashioned" it is. I.e., it has a simple carb and a real choke with a choke-knob you have to pull out to start when cold. Well? Same deal. I have to pull the bowl off in the spring and blow out with air. All I can figure is the Asian carbs have more, and smaller orifices/passage-ways that plug easier then some American-made stuff (if there IS any anymore). THAT being said - I bought a brand new log-splitter this spring. I had a choice of a American-made Kohler or a Honda engine. I chose the Kohler. Three were on the lot at the Tractor Supply Store and NONE would start. All with Kohler engines. Ended up doing the same sort of nonsense. Took it home (with a promise to quickly return if I could not get it running) . Pulled the bowl off, blew out everything - and then it started up and ran. Note that the carb on the Kohler engine is made in China.
I hear many people now blame the 10?% ethanol for all their woes - even ruined engines. ???? Even someone posted here how they "ruined their Toyota" with ethanol gas. I find that hard to be true. I have around 20 chainsaws kept at four different locations. When I get cutting serious wood - I use three saws, all day long and switch between one to the other so they can cool down. I have had a few stored up to three years with old gas. Most get new gas every year but all sit all winter without being used (no more winter wood-cutting for me). All have the 10% ethanol gas and I've had zero problems with starting or running. Why no problems yet I had issues in generators and lawn-mowers? I figure it's the bowl-type carbs. Chainsaws all have diaphram carbs with no fuel-bowls. Well, at least those made since WWII?
I'm sure someone will post now how they never, ever, have issues with a Honda generator. All I can say is - that's fine. Not the case with everyone. I know some people pay extra for pure gasoline and maybe that makes a difference? Gas station at a city near me sells it and it costs a full $1 more per gallon - just to get something without corn alcohol in it. Not something I'm willing to do yet.
I just changed-over my 4000 watt Subaru generator from gas to LP gas - just to avoid further issues with carb-cleaning.
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4 hours ago, jack-ramblin said:
for those at rv and take pets. what do you with pets when you go canoeing or what ever and cannot take the pet?
We don't go anywhere without our dog . When we lived in NY, camping was a problem since many campgrounds do not let you in with a dog under any circumstances. Note I'm talking rural, usually state campgrounds. Rural is all we ever do. Here in northern Michigan, it has never been an issue. Never been to a campground here where dogs are not welcome. Usually a leash is required and you are not allowed to leave a dog outside on a leash unattended (which is a good thing). Many people leave dogs in their RVs. We don't since our dog does with us - even in the canoe. A few weeks ago we went to Mackinac Island and we were concerned since it is all horse-travel there (no motor vehicles). Our dog likes to bark at Amish people when in their horse-drawn buggys when we get behind them on the road where we live. On Mackinac Island - there is one major dog-rule. They cannot torment horses. So, before the trip we went over to a nearby Amish farm and took my dog up to meet some of their horses close up. Well? No barking. Not a peep. I guess she only does it when safe in a car. So we went to Mackinac Island and even paid for a seat on a horse-drawn taxi for our dog to sit on. Later we stopped at one state historic site and park on a hot day and the entire parking lot was filled with RVs. Engines running and AC going and it seem most had dogs inside. I know that in some states that is illegal. I know it was in Vermont last time I was there.
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I did all my drinking and girl-chasing Quebec. Mostly in Sherbrooke. It was a lot more fun then what Vermont had to offer in Newport Center.
In 1976, we were having trouble getting the formaldehyde pills from local suppliers. In Quebec, it was easy. Same with handguns at the time. Canadians were bringing over bushel- baskets full of old guns to sell to us. Not sure what the heck was going on at the time with gun-control in Canada.
The Olympics mean little to me. Historically, the Olympic administration were Nazi and Hitler sympathizers. The "passing of the torch" was the brain-child of Adolph Hitler in the 1936 Oympics in Berlin. Seems out of respect - after WWII - it should of been dropped. Hey, I know . . let bygones be bygones. My dad was a combat soldier in the Army in WWII and my uncle was on a PT boat , same war. I put Hitler, the Olympics, and Sthil chainsaws in the same memory-compartment in my brain (Andreas Stihl was a Hitler supporter).
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My daughter would have a fit if she knew I posted this - but I won't tell her. Here she is after one night - complaining, while my granddaughter is on the roof having fun. The photo shows the only time my daughter was willing to leave the Toyota. She stayed in it for most of the time while we others hiked, or camped outdoors.
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Most impractical item I ever had in our Toyota motorhome was my 32 year old daughter. She and her daughter, 8 years old, came on a trip with us a few weeks ago. My 8 year-old granddaughter was fine. My 32 year old daughter was a pain-in-the-a*s and I never want to do that again.
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40 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
Quebec might want a word too.
Are the Canucks still putting formaldehyde pills in their maple trees? I worked in a sugar-wood for two seasons in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont for two years in the mid-70s. At that time most people I knew were using formaldehyde pills but could no longer get them in the USA. We drove across the border and got them in Quebec.
My general take on syrup is this. Many in Vermont are syrup snobs and claim the AAA fancy syrup with almost no color is the best in the world. No thanks for me. I'll take the darker stuff that is almost grade B and has a lot more flavor. Especially when done over a real wood fire instead of an oil-burner and no osmosis filters are used. Syrup is syrup and makes no difference where it comes from. More how it's done - assuming only Sugar and Black maples are the source of the sap and not Red maples.
Sad to say but L.L. Bean got sued years back for selling counterfeit maple syrup. It was the syrup makers in Quebec that called for the investigation and subsequent lawsuit against Bean. Ends up it had NO maple content and was made with artificial flavors and extract of sugar beets. I had some and will note - it DID taste pretty darn good. That is kind of depressing.
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10 hours ago, linda s said:
Well it doesn't specify what requirement for gas detectors had changed. There were many changes and at some point those gas detectors were required to be linked to a tank shut off valve.
Linda S
It says simply a "requirement",not an amendment to an existing requirement. Taken in the context of the way they write those code/reg-books, it looks clear to me that 1996 is the first year they advised it should be a requirement in new RVs. Even in the 2005 edition, there is no mentioned of any special hook-up for the LP gas detector. Just must have the UL1484 listing. And again - we are talking about recommendations made by NFPA in 1996, not laws. Here is what the 2005 edition from the NFPA shows for recreational vehicles (new ones only).
Rear brakes sticking
in General Discussion
Posted
04495-35100 changed to 04495-35180
, 04495-35141 and 04495-35100, numbers you linked to for four cylinder and V6 Toyota trucks, all cross to the same thing on the global parts interchange (global meaning parts numbers all over the world, not just USA).Used 1985-2001 in Dyna 150, Toyota HiAce and Toyota HiLux Surf and pickup
127 mm (5") radius, 56 mm (2.2") wide, 6 mm thick.
Crosses with Toyota #s 04495-2602004495-35141, 04495-35180, 04497-26020, 04497-26030, 04497-35041, 04497-35070 04495-35071, 04495-35080, 04495-35081, 04495-35090, 04495-35100, 04495-35101, 04495-35120, 04495-35121, 04495-35122, 04495-35140, , 04495-26021, 04495-26040, 04495-26150, 04495-35031, 04495-35041, 04495-35050, 04495-35051, 04495-35052