mini-wini-dan

The job was done by a toyota dealer in boise idaho. They showed me an under-sized pump that had been installed by the previous owner. This pump was not made for the system and the wiring was modified to adapt it. The dealer went back to the pump designed for the vehicle and attempted to re-wire it as directed for the toyota pump. I just drove the vehicle 300 miles and it was running better than ever 15.5 mpg and handled elevation with hills in southern idaho and northern utah. It started easily after gassing up once. Later after parking it in a rv park it went back to churning a lot and finally starting. This vehicle used to start up on the first crank and that seems to have changed after the change-over. Thanks for you input. When you start yours do you depress accelerator or just wait for the pump to bring it in? Also, I hardly touch the pedal on my 2.7 tacoma as well and it is carburated. and starts up immediately.

My vehicle is an 86 winnebago with 22re fuel injected engine

I just stalled near Harper Oregon on us 20. Towed to Toyota dealer where they diagnosed fuel pump failure. Was replaced and now running but must crank starter longer and pump accelerator several times to get vehicle running. Just wondering why? Before the change this vehicle would start immediately without even touching accelerator. Just wondering is something done during change over caused restriction in the line. Maybe need to replace fuel filre?

Just ordered them from a toyota dealer in oakland ca and putting new tires on front today also. Will enjoy some family time and then head for Oregon. Any suggestions on a path towards Yellowstone?

The front end is tight just passed inspection. As mentioned earlier these tires had a lot of tread on them when I first purchased the vehicle but after a couple of excursions I noticed that they were cupping on the outside. I took it in for a wheel alignment which was needed according to the technician and he advised that the tires would continue to wear unevenly. now 10000 miles later they are still passing inspection but getting closer to unacceptable tread depth. I am watching as I am now 2000 miles further on my trip and they are still hanging in there so I think the front end is ok. Will replacing shocks really make a difference for handling the roads in Indiana? They have the worst roads that I have seen in my travels from coast to coast

Thanks Linda S for your info and several options.

Hi-I am on the way from nepa to San Fransisco again. Have 2 front tires that developed cupping on outside tread about 2 years ago just prior to my west coast trip. They have hung in there for about 8000 miles now but I see they will be getting thinner and there is some noise that is noticeable. I am looking for a tire dealer somewhere between Des Moines Iowa and Alameda CA. I need 195/75R14-6ply load range D. Any suggestions? Also looking for shocks for my mini with dual one ton rear and probably should get them for back and front. The shocks must be heavier duty than for a 1/2 ton 86 Toyota truck. Went to O'Reilly auto parts today and they could not help without looking at the shock to match it with something. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks Dan from pa

I asked this about 2 years ago and I think I heard 60 lbs for the rear dual tires and 40 for the front tires. Any facts to share about this?

ok I will check the water level too.

I have 2 batteries. One is a deep-cycle battery for running lights, water pump, furnace igniter and a few other coach items. The battery that is discharging is the one running the truck. Advance auto is where the battery was purchased originally by the previous owner from 2012. That 2012 battery went dead in the fall of 2013 and advance replaced it with a new one. This newer battery is now just 2 years old and works fine until the vehicle sits idle. I like the suggestion for cutting the battery power while idle and may try this but I have not seen this in other vehicles and just curious about why it is happening.

While driving over a period of a week recently I was able to run and start up my wini easily but on several occasions during the past year after the vehicle sits for a week or more it is discharging the battery. I know a voltage regulator can cause this and I will have to get it tested to check this. In my operator manual there is discussion of a dual battery switch but I do not see this switch anywhere on my unit. Would an 86 mini have this switch? Any other thoughts concerning this problem. The battery is only one year old and has been checked and is ok.

Thanks for the info. As usual you folks help keep me informed. I am preparing for a trip west again from nepa to San Francisco. The winnie has been parked at my daughter's farm since last fall in nc. I am going south to get it tomorrow. I'll be posting some info about the trip and again I am thankful to all of you who assisted me 2 years ago when I had some issues to deal with while traveling 6500 miles in my winnie. I feel more confident as we get ready to go again. We love this little unit!! Thanks again and hope we meet up sometime in th future!!!

Changing the starter must be routine since there are no replies to this. Like I said I remember 2 vehicles a 62 Corvair convertible that I owned was difficult as you needed to loosen motor mounts to remove the starter. I recall also my jeep wagoneer 67 with a 327 v8 with similar problem.

Is this starter difficult to change? I have noticed some clicking ever now and then when attempting to start up engine. Sometimes twice then it will engage. Yes I know I need to also check cable connections which could be the source of this problem. Just looking for advice on a good choice for where to get a replacement and wondering if I should just have it done by my local mechanic or just change it myself. I have changed several starters over the years on a variety of vehicles just curious about how difficult this job is? I will be picking up my mini this week at my daughter's farm 550 miles away. I may consider changing the starter before driving it back home in pa.

I used the slow cure type that needs up to 24 hours for a full cure. When mixed it looks grey from black and white putty. I only noticed 2 types where I bought it the slow cure and faster cure version.

I just drove 600 miles after fixing the leak and vent. In my case the vent was rusted and completly blocked. The axle has deteriorated to the extent of rust perforation 2 spots discovered. The JB weld plugged the 2 holes and the por 15 coated the entire pumpkin area and it has not leaked a drop since doing this. We will keep an eye on it though and may consider a used axle.

Thanks Jim and Derek, I just did a 200 mile trip and the axle is leak free.

That is encouraging Jim. After installing the new vent I test drove the vehicle this morning and there were no leaks anywhere. I took it to a car wash where I hit the whole area with degreaser again and then hit it with soap and water and rinse. Later I applied 2 coats of the POR 15 to the entire pumpkin area. Tomorrow I will do a 200 mile trip and we will see how it holds.

Thanks Derek, I checked out the vent today and it was rusted and basically worthless. I have a new one ordered and will install tomorrow. I test drove the truck today and the JB weld patch is holding in the spot I treated. However this axle is like Swiss cheese as I noticed another pin hole seeping up above the fill plug. I wire brushed after hitting the area with degreaser and applied more JB to the new spot. I have owned this truck since feb of 07 and it has been an excellent vehicle aside from the rust issues. Toyota recalled it in 2010 and put a new frame and suspension on this vehicle at no cost to me. They should have included the axle. I may need to look for a used axle if I want to keep this truck going.

I shall look for the vent and check it out-thanks Derek

Hi All, It has been a while since I have posted. My mini has been parked and used in NC at my daughter's farm for a home away from home. I will be on the road to California in July for another adventure out west. The leaking rear end is on my 2002 Tacoma and I am trying to deal with this issue while on the road 600 miles from my home in NE PA. The rear has been seeping oil for a couple of years and recently became more pronounced and leaking faster. So I scraped away some rusted flakes and found the source which is now a whole about 1/16 inch in diameter. I opened the plug and drained the rear, sprayed it with degreaser and scraped down the area around the hole with wire brush. I then applied JB Weld epoxy 3 coats that plugged the hole and surrounded the local area with a 3 coat application that thickened the coating while increassing the area of coverage. I am also obtaining a paint on material called POR 15 rust neutralizing paint. I have left it empty and sitting now for about 4 days and and I return to the vehicle this weekend I will coat it again with another coat of JB weld to increase thickness. Later if this seals it I will coat the entire rear pumpkin with the POR 15. My concern is whether it will hold under the heat and possible pressure in the differential. This truck has been extremely reliable and still runs great and I hope to keep it going for a few more years. Any one else had a problem like this?

I made it home 600 miles and just thought I would share information about the warning light problem. The lights went off and on a few more times a the beginning of my 600 mile trip. By the time I was 100 miles down the road the lights were not to be seen again. I check belt tension and it was ok. So I think what happened was related to my 3 week visit on Ocracoke island where I used the camper for storage of my equipment for a work project there. I had to move the camper on short runs in sometimes water soaked streets and either the moisture or stop and go driving prompted the warning lights. I never saw the battery discharge and experienced no other problems-just the warning lights. I did hear a humming noise associated with the lights going on and as soon as they went out it stopped. Anyhow thanks for the info shared on this topic and just wanted to share the outcome on this matter.

Thanks for the advice and I'll check out the tension on the belt and will look for a place to get it tested soon.

Any tips on tightening the alternator belt? It is in a tight area and I will need a flashlight to see things. I just drove about 80 miles and most of the time the light was off. Usually it comes on when the rpms drop off when I am slowing down. I am also hearing the belt squeaking when the lights are on while I increase the RPMs the lights go out.. It seems that tightening the belt drive may be all that needs done..

Thanks I'll check belt tension next.