mickeypl

Derek, you have a point. I think the box is not strong enough to carry two bikes, unless it's reinforced. The safest thing to do is to go with the hitch and platform style bike rack.

I have the shorty sunrader with the original box in the back, I wonder if I can somehow hook up a bike rack to the box! But I think it might put too much stress on the box. Plus, it might block access to the box! This is why I still think I would be better off with hitch mounted bike rack. However, I will have to make sure that the bike rack is safe and does not put too much pressure on the frame and the coach.

Any personal experience or advice would be appreciated!

I'm in thinking of a way to bring my bikes along. I'm aware of different ways of doing this, one is to hook them up to the ladder with bike mount, but I think the bikes will stick out of the side of the coach and they will bang into the coach and each other. Other option is to install a hitch. Since I have a 18' sunrader, I think the chassis is not too far away from the back of the RV, and even the RV chassis extension seem pretty sturdy to weld a 2" receiver to them. I'm thinking of going for a platform type bike rack such as thule 990xt. This set up will prevent the bikes from moving side to side and hitting the RV. However, it could bounce on a highway or bumpy road and cause too much stress in the chassis extensions. Thule 990xt seems like a secure system, but im not sure if holds up on long drives. Has anyone had any experience with some thing like this? Another concern is that with this setup, my tail lights could be partially blocked, I might have to get extra lights and install them higher on the coach or install them on the rack.

WME, I came up with the idea of linking the air bags together after I saw "crossfire dual Tire pressure equalization system" and I thought I could use the same principle-with a much more simpler setup-on the air bags. But I was unsure about the physical effect, so I guess WME could have a point that linking the airbags could act as "anti anti roll bar" ! Anyway, I ordered the pressure equalization for the duallies and they should arrive soon. John, thanks for the advise, I will try to check the valves and oil rings.

One of the air bags leaks at very slow rate, about 5 psi on a seven day trip. The leak happens more when the truck is in motion. I try to check the pressure often, however it is not possible to keep them the same at all times. My concern is that when one side is lower the coach does not sit level and might cause some imbalance problems. To get around this issue, I was thinking to join the valve stem hoses before they come out of the side of the coach, and make one union valve stems. This will allow air to freely circulate from one air bag to the other which would also acts as sway bar!? What do you guys think about this. I am not an engineer and would like to know if this set up would work and would not interfere with the balance. Has anyone seen anything like it? What would I need to make this work?

Does the drop in rattle?! I looks great!

Has anyone replaced the stove/oven combo with a drop-in stove top to reduce the noise? I noticed while on the road the stove is too heavy for the counter to handle. Even though every moving part is removed from the oven and the stove top cover is folded up, the stove makes noise on bumpy road. I am thinking to remove it and install one of these http://www.americanr...er-RV_p_91.html Hopefully this will reduce the noise, but I don't know if these have lots of moving parts or not, but at least, it won't be as heavy as the old setup. Also I am thinking of removing the hood as well, that too makes lots of noise and its useless. Doing this entails finding a place for the tank meters and blocking the vent. I don't have to worry about fumes as I have a fantastic fan on the roof. I would appreciate it if you could share your experiences if you have done any of these!

Has anyone replaced the stove/oven combo with a drop-in stove top to reduce the noise? I noticed while on the road the stove is too heavy for the counter to handle. Even though every moving part is removed from the oven and the stove top cover is folded up, the stove makes noise on bumpy road. I am thinking to remove it and install one of these http://www.americanrvcompany.com/Atwood-DV20-W-56492-White-2-Burner-Drop-In-Cooktop-Trailer-Camper-RV_p_91.html Hopefully this will reduce the noise, but I don't know if these have lots of moving parts or not, but at least, it won't be as heavy as the old setup. Also I am thinking of removing the hood as well, that too makes lots of noise and its useless. Doing this entails finding a place for the tank meters and blocking the vent. I don't have to worry about fumes as I have a fantastic fan on the roof. I would appreciate it if you could share your experiences if you have done any of these!

I guess I will have to unscrew the top bolts and put it on top of the door.

Mine has a different unit, which I think does not have the exhaust port, it might be built in the unit (hydroflame 8516). This unit bolts on from the outside and I put putty tape under the outside door. I am still wondering whether to add sealing on the outside edges or not!

John, I am was a little unsure about this because the position of the line coming from the cooler was lower compared to the other line on the transmission. I thought it would make more sense if the return line emptied higher on transmission!

I am not clear about which intake and exhaust port you are talking about!

So I ordered the B&M kit that I mentioned earlier, What a hassle!!! I deiced to put it on the return line on the transmission. After cutting the brass line, I found out that none of the two compression fittings provided will go over the line (I guess the fittings are made for american cars). My next option was try another T-fitting. I could not find flared fittings, after making several stops at different shops. So I was forced to use regular pipe fittings and use a fuel graded rubber hose (I was told its high temp resistant! I don't know if its compatible with ATF or not) to clamp o the fitting, and form the hose to transmission line (clamped on two points separated by half an inch) and hope it wont leak. I guess I will find out soon. BTW, anyone knows the oil pressure in the cooling lines? I am wondering if my set can tolerate it if its high!

Thank for all the replies and good suggestion. So I went ahead and ordered the hydro-flame motor and replaced it. After putting everything together and re installing the unit on the coach, now I have an extra piece which I think goes on the outside door. The problem is under or over the door?! top or bottom? Some how I manged to forget this by the time I received the motor and replaced it. Please see the picture. Can someone help me here?<br /><br />Another question is whether I need to use sealer (in addition to putty tape) on the edges of the unit? if so what kind?