getout

They were layered particle board. Not much attached to the shell except the ceiling. Lots attached up there. Generally speaking, the interior came apart pretty easy...which is why I'm interested in replacing it all....eventually.

I appreciate everyone's thoughts on the subject. I'll probably end up keeping both until the wife can't put up with it anymore...or I finish it...or both. We'll see how things go. As far as progress goes, unfortunately, the last pictures on here with everything even more apart is exactly where it sits today. We played pretty hard this summer and have been working on the house so the Sunrader takes a back seat to vacations, home remodels, and extra demands on my time at work. Winter's coming again though so maybe I'll get some done in the garage.

So what you're saying is that building a custom toyota camper means my wife is going to leave me? Is this a plug for building the sunrader or quitting it all?

Cool. I'm excited to see how this goes. Out of curiosity, why not just build a shell from scratch? Why start with a sunrader? I would be tempted to build something bigger starting with a larger platform.

Found this today: http://bakersfield.craigslist.org/rvs/4064664322.html 1987 Toyota Sunrader 4x4 - 22RE Engine with 119K. - 1 Ton Floating Axel. I just purchased custom 15" Wheels for rear. Tires have less than 2000 . miles on them - Sought after rear dinette - Have taken shag carpet on inside out and reprinted. - Took original flooring out and replaced with faux wood linoleum - Have original table and a smaller table - Solar Set up Problems- Before me owning it, it had a 3/4 ton, non floating axel on it. These were recalled but was not done. Axel broke in a campground causing some body damage to rear quarter panel. Should be a easy fix. Problem has been resolved with a 1 ton floating axel on it now. I love this rig but looking to upgrade to a Navion or View. These are rare. Have heard only 26 made. 4x4's give you the clearance.

Currently a 3.0l v6 hooked up to an auto trans.

Some answers: 1. Why don't you use the existing chassis... I'd like to hear more of your reasoning. Are you uncomfortable swapping a 3.4 in there? Using the existing chassis is the plan at the moment. The 3.4l swap would be neat but I think by the time I find a 3.4l and do the 4x4 conversion on the existing chassis, for not too much more money and probably less work, I could have the newer engine PLUS the newer cab and amenities it provides. I most likely won't go this way though and will stick with the original chassis and cab and just 4x4 it. 2. If you 4x4 it, that would be awesome. You will be lifting it. What is the hang up with the rear axle. I don't see why you couldn't keep it the way it is.... edumakate me here. Gearing can be swapped out.... the driveline can be modified... just lift it and call it a day. The problem is the bolt pattern for the rear is set up for the 14" dually wheels with a really strange bolt pattern. If I want to run bigger tires that are designed to handle the weight from the camper, I've got to change to a bigger wheel. I can either have custom wheels made (but then the bolt pattern wouldn't match the front end) or somehow convert the rear to match a normal Toyota 6 lug wheel. I think that's what I prefer. 3. It seems that you and I are alike. Hey! I like to progress and accomplish stuff and am really good at taking stuff apart. I find that putting it back together can be challenging. Maybe we aren't alike... but I've learned that the only way to eat an elephant is to take one bite at a time. If I look at the whole thing and what needs to be done... I want to quit. But as I progress my confidence builds and before I know it, its 90% done. Are you like me? The truck doesn't cost me anything just sitting in pieces in the driveway. I just wish it was done so I could use it but I don't have the money (or time at the moment) to throw at it until it's finished. I just do little things while I've got time but it'd be really nice to have a finished product sooner rather than later. 4. Where are you located, if you are close to seattle, I'd be happy to give you some motivation by helping you out (drinking your beer and watch you work) here and there! I'm in Utah so unfortunately a bit far...though you're welcome anytime. Did you ever consider retrofitting 4wd to your existing Sunrader instead of putting it on another truck? Just wondering if thats possible and how much retrofitting would cost? 4x4 as it sits is the plan...though that tacoma sure does seem nice. From what I can gather, major expenses include the follow (guessing rough retail prices, not including tools/skills/etc.): For the front: '85 front axle (used) = $300 high Steer kit = $600 ifs steering box (used) = $70 front springs = $300 5 speed trans/tcase (used) = $250 flywheel = $60 clutch pedal install (used) = $100? (pedal assembly, master cylinder, etc.) front drive shaft lengthening = $100? shocks = $140 random other installation bits (steel, bolts, shackles, etc.) = $200 TOTAL= $2,120....plus my typical overrun of 50% ->$3,180 For the back: lug pattern change = $100??? brake discs = $60? calibers with cable parking brake = $120? spring over (ubolts, steel, etc.) = $100? shocks = $140 drive shaft lengthening = $100? random other installation bits (steel, bolts, shackles, etc.) = $100 TOTAL = $720...$1,080 with overrun Good information about 2wd to 4wd convertion: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/496869-2wd-4wd-conversion-faq-information-thread.html

I have very much so. I think a Taco with a 3.4l would be really nice. I think, if I was going to do it, I'd get an extended cab, cut the extended part out and re-weld most of the back to make it a regular cab so I get all the round corners and strength that it adds. I'd leave the frame in tact and then move the rear spring hangers back and add some more on the rear of the frame. This would probably be my preferred approach but it's now it's time and money. The mess isn't costing me anything keeping it as is. I really think most of the money is going to get poured into the interior (despite my plans for super simplicity). If someone's got a 4x4 Taco laying around they want to give me, I'd be happy to take it and start the project.

Honestly; no, I haven't. I bought a 1985 straight axle and high steer kit with some lift springs. I would need a transmission and that would be about it for the 4x4 on the front end (other than actually SASing the truck). The rear I'd still need to do something with but I don't know it would be terribly difficult. The good news is, there's a pretty high demand for 4x4 toyota motorhomes, the bad news is I have significantly less time than when I started this project (not that I had much then, but I have less now). Also, the house seems to be consuming and discretionary income we have with a pending bathroom remodel next. I don't know. I would hate to throw in the towel because I know it would be pretty cool when it was done, but I have no idea when that would happen. The problem is, there's not really a very good alternative to any of this. Even if I had a different truck I'd still have to build something custom on the back to make it work for what I want. I don't know if there's any BEST solution to any of this.

Karin, that's a pretty informative link. Thanks for that.

Yeah, mine is horrible. It's like they tried to cut it opened with a can opener and when that didn't work, they went to a hammer claw. Hopefully I can get that cleaned up as part of the remodel. Too bad no one will ever really see/appreciate it when it's done and covered up.

Haha. Too true.

Even though mine flattens out when the supports are out, it would be easy to tell it was supposed to be arc'd. Just a little pressure up in the center makes it bow out like that. I imagine an curvature is better than flat.

Mine is higher in the center and then drops into 'gutters' almost at the edge. Then it steps down about 6".

Yep. They had foam and carpet on them. I pulled it off and painted them. My roof sagged even without the ac. I was mainly worried about the weight from snow though. No more sagging roof now.

Kids were at grandmas so I figured it was the safest time for a dangerous job. Sorry, you had asked about the metal and I forgot to respond. The curved pieces running left to right came with the shell. Two carriage bolts.through either side hold them in place. The long pieces running front to back are electrical galvanized struts. I would just run steel box if I was to do it again but the steel yard wasn't opened at the time.

Where am I now? Slow slow slow. I'm pretty sure this is becoming the eternal project. There's just too much other stuff going on to spend a lot of time and money on this...which is too bad. I enjoy the work but wouldn't recommend anyone getting into something this deep if you have anything that resembles a normal life (work, kids, summer time play, etc.). That said, I have been doing some work. I pulled the cab off the frame and got some more parts. Don't expect much progress though. August/September are busy at work. I'll post pictures as I get things done though.

He didn't re-attach the shell to the truck though. He left it independent.

Any recommendations for the camper to truck connection then? Whatever was on there was an adhesive sealant but not terribly hard to remove with some good pulling. I might want to do the same for my stringers as I don't know how long it will be before I decide I want to take everything apart again...I really probably won't....but might if I get bored enough in the future.

I also need something to attach the shell to the truck (or whatever truck) again. I was thinking about using this stuff but am concerned about disconnecting it if I ever decide to do that again.

I read some posts over on Expedition Portal about that stuff this morning. That might be a better way to go. I'm a little ways out from needing it but I do have a West Marine in town I could grab some from to have on hand.

1) Were the pieces of the shower unit the same thickness as the thickness of the fiberglass shell? They seem to be the same thickness. The only places where this was (is going to be) a problem is where the shell curved and I didn't have a curve in the shower piece. I think I'm going to just grind those down or fill/cover them in more glass mat to make them flush. 2) Regarding the wood scraps used to temporarily hold those pieces in place until the resin cured... Did you use them on the inside too? What did you use to hold those scraps of wood in place? Were drywall screws good enough or is the shell too thin and required you to bolt them in place? I just screwed them in and figured I'd fill the holes later. I used some sheet metal screws but I imagine anything would work. 3) what kind of resin? Stinky polyester or epoxy? Polyester. It was cheap and I sourced it locally. I read post on the fiberglassRV forum where a guy was saying it was fine to use that. It seems plenty strong enough and I'm not eating off of it so it's good enough for me. 4) Approximately how thick is the fiberglass shell? This I don't know. I can measure, but my guess is 3/16" or so? 5) Do you know yet what kind of glue you will use on the inside to attach wood stringers and ledgers? (The stuff you will attach things like cabinets and walls, etc. to.) I think just a strip of glass and resin? Not sure yet. I used liquid nails on the metal bars holding the roof but I'm not too impressed.

The dilemma: What do I do about the rear axle??? So, 4x4ing this thing comes with complications I didn't anticipate...namely the weird lug pattern on the axles (6 on 7.5 or 7.25 or something). It seems like I've got some options but none seem far superior over any others. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. I think these are at least some of my options so far. 1. Get custom duallies. Est. Cost $700. Pros - duallies Cons - wheels don't match the front, buying 6 tires instead of 4 2. Swap the rear hubs for FJ80 Rear Full Float Hubs. Est. Cost ??? Pros - regular Toyota lug pattern, apparently bolt on change (except the brakes). Cons - really hard to find, need e-brake solution, need brake caliper mounted somehow 3. Swap the rear hubs for IFS automatic hubs. Est. Cost ? but cheaper than the FJ80 Pros - easier to find the hubs, cheaper. Cons - have to run a 3/4" spacer which will make this set up fairly weak, e-brake solution, caliper mounting 4. Swap the rear axle for something else entirely. Est. Cost ?-??????. Pros - endless possibilities. Cons - would need to do something on the front too. Dana 60s see to be the go-to since they're the only 1-ton that seems worth anything. Doing that would make this a stupid expensive project so I'm really not considering this. 5. Swap to a different truck (tundra). Est. Cost $7,500. Pros - Tundra. Cons - Big money...and tundra (I'm not a huge fan). Any other ideas??? This was my helper while pulling the rear wheels off. Mom didn't want her clothes to get dirty.

Finally got the shell completely off the truck. It really has to be jacked up high in order to do that. We built three little stands about 4 feet wide and 16" (I think) off the ground. I had some help doing that part. Now the shell sits by the garage and the truck is in the garage waiting for the next steps.

The body holes I filled with pieces of the shower unit that was originally installed in the camper. Even after filling all the holes I had a good bit to spare. Most of the window holes I was able to fill with material cut out from the new window locations. I glassed all the pieces in from the inside but still need to get back to grinding out and glassing the exterior side in place.