yota_mkii

Hm, thanks Maineah.... good to know what those wires do (i've been wondering). now at least i can check to make sure the white one is carrying voltage (though in retrospect i supose this is obvious). Still the green and yellow confused me. So when you say the green is carrying the field voltage, this is the signal telling the regulator what the alternator field is at? or is it a signal from the reg to the alt? never covered this in auto shop. You say that when i cut it (green), if the charging voltage drops then there is a problem with the regulator. ... however isn't that what i'm trying to achieve, a lowered voltage? the strangest part is that a new regulator didn't fix anything. <br><br>by the way yes, there is no resistance at any of the points mentioned - regulator base, alternator case, battery negative to multiple points on the frame. etc. <br><br>and no, no tampering with the wires that i can see - and it looks like the original alternator (has factory hookup for the regulator) <br> i'll try to find the main engine ground as well...

yes, i have the old regulator.... it is a 27700-38113-84. i believe the replacement from ebay is the same #. interestingly enough, i tried a brand-new regulator from Autozone. Their diagnostic told me that the alternator diode was ok, but the regulator was not. So i bought a brand new regulator and installed it,... no difference, and i had them test it again... same result - good diode, bad regulator. SO its telling me theres a bad regulator, even when the regulator is brand new. (by the way, it is correct that there are two regulator types. one is oval with 5 pins, and one is round and appareantly has 6 pins. Mine is the oval 5 pin. For cash reasons i returned the ineffective new regulator and reinstalled the e-bay one. The autozone guy seemed to think that it was therefore a grounding problem (as did a guy driving a 1989 yotahome in Tucson). So i`ve been trying to figure out where this could be. the alternator casing is grounded fine. the connections between the alt and the regulator all show connectivity (ohm setting on my volt meter). the regulator is grounded properly to the frame. I checked all of these grounds by placing one lead on positive, and one lead to the test point, checking the resistance. i can`t imagine what else could be ungrounded, that would cause such an issue. One other thought is that perhaps the battery isolator is causing problems - though i unhooked the 2nd battery, and put the alt and battery 1 on the same post, and yet the problem persisted. i`m quite amazed at this point. probably replacing the alternator with a modern one, combined with the volt reg is the best bet. however i`m already over budget and am hoping to resolve the regulation issue... after all the alt is doing its job just fine. I`m in Quartzsite now... I heard there was a meeting organized by toyotamotorhome.org, but i know i`ve missed it by a few weeks... is anyone still aroundÉ and also, does anyone know an electrical specialist who`d be willing to take a shot at it hereÉ Still trying! (and batterys still frying) in Quartzsite,

okay, well i have to say you guys are more helpful than anyone at yotatech. just to clarify, i'm not interested in info about inverters or the isolator, these are both working fine no problem. . The post by Maineah, "The output is proportional to the field voltage (controlled by the regulator) if it's high it will over charge you may want to check your grounds (black wire) a bad ground can confuse the regulator there" is actually super helpful - that is exactly what is going on, i am getting close to 20 volts. the house battery is already toast , or almost toast, i swapped it the other day and it would barely crank the engine. swapped it back right away. as i said, after a long run it is VERY HOT (i'm typing by light from its current right now, which is dimming so its possible i made a mistake getting a used volt reg - but can these really be found new? i didn't know. there is one thing - at the back of the rig, under the gas stove, is my main fuse panel and 120v - 12 v inverter. there is a black wire hanging loose there, which may be a ground. i can't really imagine a wire way back there affecting the current generated by the alt, but i figured i'd mention it. i wish there was a way to test what the volt reg is doing... I am going to stop by a parts store tomorrow and see what they can test. take good care and thanks for all the suggestions (still very interested in hearing any other information, ), cheers , Tucson AZ headed to Quartzsite tomorrow

hey Guys! Sorry to bring bad news, but the voltage problem is persisting. I've posted the following over at yotatech... it is fine at idle, but as soon as i rev up, it starts climbing to 18 v. again. My battery is VERY HOT. I need to get these volts down, but not sure what to try next:: Hi Guys,! I'm driving a 1984 Toyota Mini Cruiser (motorhome built on a pickup frame) across the country and am having tons of "fun" making everything keep working. Ongoing issue, the system is putting out as much as 18 volts while running, and this is causing all sorts of problems (blowing lights, frying inverters, cooking my battery, etc. etc.). I actually already replaced the voltage regulator with one ("tested", used) off the internet, and the problem persists. its a 22r engine with the old alternator (volt regulator is separate). First, does anyone have experience with this systen, who could provide some advice for troubleshooting this issue? there are two connections coming from the alternator - one goes to the volt regulator (3 wires), and the other goes directly to the battery isolator (there are two batteries on this rig). I'm wondering if its just hooked up wrong - like shouldn't the wire go from the alt to the reg, and then to the isolator? or is it correct that the regulator gets its own line to the alternator, and then regulates the signal that goes to the battery. anyways i'm stumped, and also a little worried because i happened to check the 2nd battery after a mountain run yesterday, and it was HOT. which means its way overcharging, which is v. bad news. I've got to get these volts down asap, and i don' t know what else to do short of replacing the alternator. any advice would be greatly appreciated! also if anyone has a wiring diagram for the old alt/regulator setup, thanks and take good care, somewhere in new mexico

how did you wire the inverter, and also how much did it cost? brand name? i passed on a 400 watt walmart one ($40), and also passed on an 800 watt black and decker (80$)... regular coffee maker seems to run aroiund 1000 watts, but i saw a small 'mr coffee' at 600 watts, which sounds like what you're talking about...

hm, there is a second antenna , located just to the rear of the drivers door - is this a cb antenna? does anyone else have this antenna? 1983 mini cruisier

just a quick note - problem is resolved by ordering the exact part that derek posted above - literally used the link and ordered it - 30 bucks shipped in 3 days, 2 bolts and a connector later the voltage problem is solved. Can't wait to go get an inverter - anyone run a coffee maker in their motorhome? I'm trying to find a good inverter, thx all,

Hi ! i'm trying to get the CB radio working - the one that came stock on the 1983 mini cruiser. does anyone have this radio?

okay, i'll try to check around, and then stop at a parts place... my co-pilot is getting upset with the lack of music Where by the way is the regulator? I'm assuming this is a voltage regulator? I didn't know that there was one of these, rather i thought that it just came straight off the alternator .. (where by the way is the regulator?) thanks a ton, this is really helpful and cost efficent way of fixing things!

Hi, i'm driving a 1983 mini cruiser across the country - trying make the quartzite meeting for some advice! we tried to use an inverter to run some music - the radio is non functional - and the inverter got fried. testing the voltage, i find that the whole system is running at 18+ volts DC. this may also be why the left rear signal keeps going out. has anybody ever had such an issue, or have any advice on a solution? a little worried, as i know its bad to charge a battery at 18 volts !

is that a 1988 TOYOTA 1 ton, or is it generic? will do, thx for the advice, will post part #s when i get them

thats a starts, thanks a ton (np intended) Derek up North, So given that it is the replacement axle, i should be shopping for the parts you mention... i found some toyota OEM numbers on this site, they are for an 89 mini cruiser... i am not at all sure if these will work for the 1 ton full float axle Wheel Seal, Rear, Inner 90310-35001 Wheel Seal, Rear, Outer 90311-62001 Rear Brake Shoe, 04495-35180 i'm driving1.5 hrs south to get it done by the fellow from whom i bought it - as i haven't done a set of drums since i was a kid, and never 1-tons. he's a mechanic and seemed apologetic that he didn't check the rear brakes before selling (one of his mechanics was supposed to have done the work (supposedly). offered to do it cheap, but i have to find the parts. i'll mention the bearings to him.

oh my god, do i have to find the seals as well? how do i find the part # for the shoes / seals on the replacement axle??? (manual would be nice, if such a think exists?)

hi - what brake shoes do i get for a 6-lug 1983 minnie cruiser?// emergency, have to get these in the morning,

howdy from Sunny Florida, I have just purchased a 1983 Minnie Cruiser, and am about to set off on a x-country voyage. There are a few problems, and many unanswered questions regarding this rig. First of all, i have been told that there is a propane leak at the regulator, and so can't use any of the propane appliances (fridge, water heater, stove). Anyone have any advice on locating the source of the leak, fixing/replacing the regulator? i also have recieved no manuals or instructions on this rig, and it is my first one, so i'm in the dark about a lot of things. 1. hydro - it seems there is a circular, 3 prong plug on the back - is this standard? i don't have any way of hooking up the AC that i can see. 2. water pressure - how do i get the water running? how do i drain the grey/black water tanks? (i.e. is there an electric pump for one/both of these?) 3. i'm scared of the water heater - i guess once i have the propane running i can start to think about this, 4. second battery? right now there is only one battery - though there seems to be a crossover/regulator type thing under the hood - any advice on 2nd battery hookup. also along these lines, i'm thinking of getting an inverter for AC current while driving - any advice on inverters, what do people normally do? well thats all for now, though i have tons of other questions - lots of mystery boxes and things here and there - i'll upload some pics when i get the camera working. thanks for existing, and any and all response to these issues are welcome! cheers and happy 2012,

hey there toyotamotorhome folks! i just thought i'd send an update, I ended up purchasing the ugly one... 1983 Minnie Cruiser, and I'm glad i did. It was being sold by a mechanic, - looking under the hood there are all new high voltage wires, a new distributor cap, and everything is in good shape. runs great, new clutch, new master cylinder (the keystone i checked out had nice wallpaper, but the brakes were so soft that you had to press right to the floor, and it was still iffy). new hydraulics for the clutch as well (though i wasn't even aware that clutches had hydraulics - however there seems to be a fluid resevoir. THE BEST PART IS, IT HAS THE 6 LUG AXLE, and so i can safely and without a troubled conscience drive around overloaded, haha, not that that is the plan. on the downside, one of the mechanic's mechanics had been living in it, - fortunately the neighbour here in FL loaned us a carpet cleaner, and i have extracted a horrible amount of black grit and grime from the low-pile carpet. its looking much better now. anyways, having finished this stage, i have a ton of new questions, but i think i'll post this in a fresh thread, given the nature of the questions, ciao for now, the happy new owner of a toyoterhome,

Garage is about 1500 miles north - won't be back there until spring. i've put off purchasing the ugly one until tomorrow, so i can look at the Keystone. the Huntsman at 2800 was sold this morning, unforunately as i was planning to drive and see it this afternoon. fast market for these things! i'm encouraged to hear about 250,000 miles on a 5 lug wih no problems... any similar stories, or more importantly, a story of one breaking? also good advice on getting the bearings cleaned up - will consider that if i get the 5 lug. still wondering about that lean, but i guess i'll see when i drive it tomorrow, !

well I'm in Palm Harbor... you know i would attempt the axel change on my own if i was back at my dad's garage, but all i've got here is a banjo and a laptop, which i'm not sure would be that helpful. seriously have any of you spent any time driving a 5 lug axle? any personal experience with one breaking, or any stories you know of? i did some searching and didn't actually turn up any horror stories, but i admit i could have searched more thoroughly. once again, if i load it lightly, perhaps it would be ok? i'm going to see the ugly one tomorrow (and to smell it, .. god), i know a lot about mold having lived with black mold once, and yeah i would avoid that. also regarding that lean to the left - what do you think is going on there? re: derek, good call; the other option might be to get the price on ol' ugly lowered because of its cosmetic deficiencies, a lot depends on when i see it tomorrow, - i'm most worried about what might be wrong with the front wheel or suspension

you are right, i had the sellers check and they are both 5 bolt axles. i found another one that is in Horrible shape, but has a 6 lug axle and is selling for about 2500. what a dilemma! i've attached a pic of the huntsman, which is in great shape, but has the old axle - price 2800 and a pick of the ugly 1983, which looks like a mold factory, but has the 6-bolt 1 ton axle.. right now i'm leaning towards the ugly one, (and it appears to be leaning towards the left) considering the safety ramifications of the axle issue. is it really that big of a problem - perhaps i should check the length of the nice ones, maybe they're light enough not to worry? or just not overload it? considering its been around this long... but still... i have to move right away on this as i'm scheduled to depart on Saturday this week. also any advice on the way that thing appears to be leaning (the ugly one) ... do you think its a rocker arm or something? how does that repair compare to the axle issue m

hey there, I'm super glad that this forum exists! I'm going to be purchasing a Toyota motor home (i had an 84 tercel 4x4 once upon a time - and it was my favorite car ever). So I have an option for the above two rigs... the Keystone is $3500 with 6 new tires, broken odometer & new clutch. the Huntsman is $2800, looks good and has new batteries, water pump & alternator. I'm wondering if one of these is a better model, or how i should make the decision. Right now i'm favoring the Huntsman due to the better price and cleaner look (the Keystone has a 'rebuilt front end' which worries me). But those issues aside for the moment, is one of these models superior to the other? thanks ! and happy toyota-ing , !!