vrocrider

Completed rear tail light conversion to Bargman LED. Replaced old flasher with a LED compatible Novita flasher EP35 to slow flashing speed to normal flash rate. To get to flasher remove bottom dash panel under steering column. Disconnect duct work connected to air outlet under steering column. My old flasher had a mechanical connection that reversed polarity. Discarded this and direct connected new flasher to wiring harness. Flasher has mounting tab to mount where previous flasher was located.

Going to replace A/C dryer & need to remove front grill to access. See some tabs but don't understand what you do to get release. Do you have to remove side marker lights? Thanks for any input.

I'd check PCV. No synthetic oil.. Correct weight oil?

Suggestion to make sure you don't have an ignition problem... To my great surprise I found I had ignition (distributor) problems by putting timing light magnetic pickup on each spark wire & looked for solid on/off fire for each cylinder. I put in a set of Flame Thrower rebuilt injectors. Happy with the injectors. Be prepared to blow off trash in the intake valley. I had insulation mice had left when they apparently lived there.

Hi Linda. Agree very important to get right cable or you could have melt down/fire. Electrical cable has both a voltage V & current rating in amps A. That along with the protective feeder breaker is critical to have safe operation. My 1991 Toy Winnebego Warrior has from the factory a 3 prong cable rated maximum voltage 125/250VAC & maximum current rating most likely 50A but could be 30A. Note the 50A based on info from RV cable suppliers. Cable has to have electrical specs equal or above power being supplied. Sorry for confusion.

I have the same problem which I have not yet addressed. Based on my experience with in ground pool lights my plan is to replace the 240V power cord from RV to land connection. As previously noted I'd make sure cable & plug are molded as one piece. My experience with 120V pool lights was that insulation degrades over time and you get some voltage seepage to ground. Trips GFCI feeding lights. Sporadic at first then gets worse over time as cable insulation continues to degrade. Replacement of cable feeding lights solved problem. Again, my plan that I have not started and the reasoning for my plan.

Noticed Spectra Premium Industries shows replacement fuel tanks for Toyota pickups for all engines & seems all years on their web site. I know Oreilley's Auto Parts sells some of their stuff but don't about fuel tanks.

Test drove last night. While greatly improved, no stumbling, still get some pinging which I believe may be related to distributor based on reading forum posts. Saw a manual verifying above ohm specs for distributor. Saw a post where Spectra brand ($150) meets specs when tested. Ordered one & plan to install & test. Will advise.

Thanks. Is it difficult to pull box under glove box?

Yes, fuel filter changed. New distributor solved problem. Yea! New $58 ebay distributor helped greatly but still some pinging. Performed ohm test on new ebay distributor & passed only 2 of 3 tests as outlined above. Will return distributor. Bought a timing light & checked fire on each wire coming off distributor cap. Erratic at best so 65K mile distributor electrically dead.

Couldn't find it in engine compartment. Anybody know where these are? Thanks.

Thanks WME. Yea, all the posts I have seen for KS says CEL light comes on & yields code 52. Found a test procedure on another forum for pick ups inside distributor. Mine didn't pass so going to order new distributor off ebay for around $60. Anybody have any experience with this? Test specification (colors corrected): Reference: White = G- signal; Red wire = NE signal; Green wire = G1 signal; Yellow wire = G2. Specs (at ambient temp; i.e. not a hot engine): G- & G1: 125 - 200 ohms G- & G2: 125 - 200 ohms G- & NE: 155 - 250 ohms I'll update when I hopefully come to a solution. Thanks again for any input.

1991Toy W Warrior. 65K miles. Engine stock with EGR. Sat for last 6 years with half tank & Stabil. Prior to park had new ignition components and ran fine from Atlanta to Texas. Has had head gasket replacement under recall. The story. New battery. Started after a few tries to my surprise. Ran rough and had the smell of old gas. Extreme pinging. Drained gas tank, new fuel filter. Not much change. No CEL. CEL does work. Drove to Alabama with several bottles of Techron along the way. Only able to reach 45 - 50 MPH on highway. No improvement during drive. Terrible pinging. Engine rocks so bad it cracked lower radiator hose neck. Checked for cracks in air tube from MAS to throttle body. Checked for cracked vacuum lines. Checked plugs. All a brownish gold on insulator. Checked cap & rotor button. Checked fuel pressure. Good at idle. Cleaned throttle body. Installed 6 rebuilt Bosch 4 holes fuel injectors. Noticed that 3 of the intake plenum were much cleaner than the other 3. Not sure why. Jumpered CEL terminals. Continuous flashing so I assume that means no codes. Pulled small filters out of each pulled injector & they all were clean. Result, slight improvement but still same issues. Noticed animal nest under plenum & a little wire insulation damage from critters. Timing seems right as it cranks right up. Engine a little rough at idle. Still pinging & hesitant to get up to speed. Next step...initially leaned toward a fuel issue but now thinking more ignition. Based on reading forums about engine ping plan to replace distributor. Will buy a timing light and verify timing. One mechanic suggested I test for fuel pressure at speed where fuel regulator kicks in. Suggestions? Thanks for any assistance.

Thanks for all input. Does anyone have pictures/discussion on overhang repair? I assume you access from the inside by removing bunk bed? Thanks.

Any RV body shops in Houston you can recommend? Got a quote from one guy that seems competent....quoted minimum $5K. Comments? Issues are as follows: 1.) Roof leak at right rear has caused some separation of the filon. Size is approximately 2 ft by 3 ft. Need roof leak stopped and filon repaired. Could not get a picture that would show filon separation. 2.) Front left top of cab overhang damaged from soft impact with roof in a covered parking space. I have a new metal trim piece. the old is bent. Pictures provided. 3.) Window in cab overhang cracked. Have replacement glass. Need installed. Picture provided. 4.) Lower left of cab overhang damaged from water penetration. Need repaired. Picture provided. Can these issues be repaired by a competent shop & look OK/acceptable/good? Big $s are in overhang repair....thought I'd ask shop to make repair & I'll put back together to save $s. Questioning whether I should put $s into MiniWinnie. Any comments welcomed. Thanks.

Changing out rear tail,stop, turn lights & would like to change angled base too. Have new light bar. Anybody know a source for angled base?

Thanks. Pricey...no kidding!! Quote I got from folks with link below: "For a light grey tempered 10.3x57.3 ~ 1/8 inch thick piece of glass your cost would be $89.84 plus tax & shipping. Please let me know if you would like to order this. Thank You, RV Glass Repair Services" http://www.rvglassrepairservices.com/

FYI I got from Winnebago the following dimensions and will have glass made to hopefully fit. Thickness: 2.92mm – 3.40mm; 1/8in. Height: 261.6mm; 10.3in. Width: 1455.4mm; 57.3in. Radius on edges: 53.2mm; 2.093in.

Hi. I posted months back about needing to replace cracked front flat glass in cab overhang on 1991 Winnebego Warrior on Toyo chassis. Presently has plastic which is not original. Some may recall I had a guy lined up that makes motorcyle windshields to make new tinted plastic piece. I've now decided to go to original glass. My thinking is the glass offers more rigidity & I know this window seal is prone to leak on all class Cs. I having difficulty determining correct dimensions of glass. I'm told that if I had numbers off a correct piece of glass that this may solve issue. Anybody with original glass have markings and know manufacturer? I believe Hehr brand was used alot. Thanks for any help.

Thanks for input. I have not done my window yet. Have a guy lined up that makes custom motorcycle windshields to make me a tinted polycarbonate duplicate of my present broken plexiglass window. Wanted to change gasket at same time. Thanks for your help. Greg

Thanks for the link. Yes, I'm trying to replace the rubber keeper or black thing around the glass similar to old car front glass setup. Quoting you in the link... "1) From the outside, Remove the rubber keeper that holds the window in, MIne was dry, brittle, and cracked. Not a problem, I'm not going to re-use it" and 85mirage in the link..."Thanks for the detailed how to because this is just what i need to do. I replaced some rubber keepers to stop water coming in. And now need to reglaze them as you described" Have you guys replaced the black rubber keeper? Where can I get this? Thanks. Greg

Reaplacing the front window in the cab overhang on a 1991 Toy Winne Warrior. Source for the gasket? Thanks.

Is the price at PBs a listed sale price or did you have to negotiate? Free shipping to your store starting 2/29, right? thanks.

Found some exhaust pipes for my old Honda Goldwing on CL in Danville, Va. For some reason guy won't ship. Anybody in/near Danville that could help? Will pay for time/mileage. Thanks Greg.