vrocrider

Please note you probably have another problem that caused the gas to ignite. I'd start by checking battery cable connections both at battery & grounds to chassis / engine block in engine compartment. Open the hood in the dark & accelerate engine & look for ignition electrical pulse light from wires, distributor cap, plug boots, etc. Another test during the day is shake plug wires with your hand & see if you get shocked. I'd use only Toyota wire set if you have to replace.

Bite mark? Really? Guess the I adjuster is an animal control officer in his spare time! He's there to protect the insurance company. Don't let them take advantage of you!! "Bottom line: with Progressive anyway, check your vehicle at least every two weeks. I started and sometimes drove mine every month but admit that I didn't always check for a rat's nest under the hood." BS!! Nobody checks for rodents every 2 weeks. Don't wait on Progressive. You need to be proactive since they've spouted all this BS. If you have a local agent go talk to them & tell them this is BS. One of my points was that a fact of life is rubber deteriorates which equals not your fault!! That is If indeed it is a rubber fuel line. While I'm not a professional mechanic I've worked on a lot of cars and motorcycles in my 55 years of being a gear head I can't recall ever seeing a FORMED (90 degree) rubber FUEL line as you describe. My experience formed hoses usually carry coolant or vacuum. Rubber fuel hoses are common on motorcycles because of vibration and many curves they have to travel. As Linda said fuel lines are metal just for the reason you have experienced. Fire hazard. See you have a V6. I just went through my V6 fuel system replacing all 6 fuel injectors, fuel filter, pulling the intake plenum, inspecting fuel rail. It's all metal due to safety and high fuel pressure. At a minimum if no lawyer get a good mechanic to give you a report before you move vehicle. Talk to Toyota corporate. Tell them what insurance said about rubber fuel line in a 3.0L V6. Make a formal report with them. Also, a no cost strategy that worked for me is to call the state insurance commissioner and make a formal complaint. In my case situation went from insurance company accusing me of arson (house fire) to pick out whatever contractor you want to make repairs & stay at whatever hotel is convenient. Sorry. I get fired up when I see people being taken advantage of.

Does the glass push up against the upper part of the inverted L shape? Thanks.

"Looks like a rat had chewed the gas line which caused the fire." You've got to be kidding!! 1.) How can there be evidence of this in a burned engine compartment. 2.) I've had rodents make a nest under my intake manifold in RV parked for years. Some nibbling on wire insulation but no rubber damage at all. 3.) Rubber cracks & deteriorates over time. That's why tire manufacturers say a tire should be replaced after 7 years regardless of mileage. I'd sure fight this one. If you're from the "life's too short" world I'd pay a lawyer $200 to write a letter saying unacceptable. My experience with insurance on more than one occasion is they try to take advantage of you. If you say no way & fight back they quickly sing a different song. This one should be easy. Good luck.

If no compressor probably around $60 in parts. Guess 2 cans of R12 Freon you source & R12 compatible oil $s??. For shop to vacuum, charge with 134, vacuum, recharge r12 maybe $150. Again, this is an A/C specialist.

First, go to a different mechanic. There are things in your post that tell me this is NOT the A/C guy you need. A/C is a subset skill in auto world. Second, go all the way or you're wasting time and money. Learn from my experience. IMO even a poorly running engine should burn/squeal the belt before stalling on a locked up compressor so I have no idea why motor stalled. You MAY have damaged a good compressor. The dryer is like an oil filter catching contaminants in the refrigerant which could harm compressor. I think it's 50/50 now vs. if you changed components & evacuated system to start you would have better odds. To my knowledge all A/C hoses come with the fittings factory installed. I think you'd have to have specialized equipment to field install fittings on a/c hose. One side of your compressor is a high pressure and it's associated HP hose. The other side is low pressure with it's associated low pressure hose. The system has a specification for the type and amount of refrigerant. Same with refrigerant oil. Leave it for the A/C mechanic. My guess is you flowed refrigerant in a contaminated system. The refrigerant eventually got blocked at expansion valve & hose was place of lowest resistance to failure. Essentially it provided a safe guard blow out relief for an overcharged system. Google how refrigerant system works for better understanding. So, it you decide to go forward I'd replace dryer, expansion valve, both hoses with seals. Take it to a competent A/C guy. Have him vacuum system. Then install correct refrigerant oil and 134. See if compressor turns & look for leaks briefly. Evacuate 134 pull vacuum and install R12. Anything less & system will fail either sooner or later. My experience of hard knocks. If you do above & determine you to change compressor have to change dryer and expansion valve again. Look at Rock Auto & ebay for pricing. No rebuilt compressor. Factory is probably Denso. I'd go with that if available. Rock Auto shows a compressor KIT listing with nice write up on components listed above. Good read. I wouldn't take parts off with the expectation it will make a difference in performance. Leave for the next guy. Parts present in a non working system can't hurt value vs. alternate removal.

Would you be interested in selling front facing window frame & inside trim? Trying to fit a 12 1/8" x 59 1/8" x 7/8" hole in 91 Winnebago. Thanks.

Thinking white oak or douglas fir on wood species. Should I be concerned on ability of fasteners to penetrate oak? I know I could drill holes but too much work. Thoughts? Thanks.

Sourcing a complete window with 2 1/2" radius corners is big bucks IF you can find a supplier. I spent an unreasonable amount of time last week, placed one order that was cancelled by the supplier, and still don't have a solution. My needs are to fill 12 1/8" x 59 1/8" x 7/8" front facing cab over window. Hopefully I'll solve my problem this week & post my experience.

Hi. I'm interested in frame, trim plate, and seal/weather stripping only. No glass. My rough hole is 12 1/8" x 59 1/8" x 7/8" deep. Dirt, caulk, silicone, whatever OK. Thanks

Having done a several older R12 dead to live car systems recently I'll share what I have learned. There are 3 key points from a shop that does only auto/truck A/C. If there's a chance the compressor is not dead perform following: 1.) Always replace the dryer. This is the "can with site glass" referred to early in the above posts. 2.) Always replace the expansion valve. Most often it's on the fire wall but in the case of my 91 Toyota it's in the evaporator core box under the passenger dash. 3.) Use use cheap 134 to get the system up & check for leaks. Vacuum out 134 and install expensive R12. Dryer and expansion valve are relatively cheap compared to compressor. If compressor has to be replaced the dryer & EV must be replaced & system flushed for the compressor to have a chance of survival. To make the task affordable I replaced all parts & took to car to shop to do vacuum & install of R134 & R12. I also supplied the R12 to the shop that I sourced at $35+ a can.

Rebuilding overhang area on Warrior. Replacing some of the wood supports that go from side to side. What kind of wood & what are dimensions? Thanks.

Would you be interested in selling front facing window on overhang if in good shape? Just need frame. Thanks.

Use CAUTION if buying from Motion RV windows. Get a quote, place and pay for an order for one window. Get a call back from sales manager who initially quoted window saying this is not what I need. I ask why & his explanation is "trust me, I know what's best. This is the type window you want. I say no I'm familiar with the window type you are proposing and I decided against it because I want the thicker frame on the unit I ordered. He gets irritated and says he's cancelling order. I say fine.

Oil for high mileage engines supposedly has additives to help things like valve seals stay more flexible. I'd switch to that if you haven't already.

Goal now is to replace total window assembly. Unable to source from Winnebago. Asked if they could tell me original manufacturer of windows on any of the WT321 Warriors. They have no record. Checked with following RV window manufacturers: Kenro, Hehr, Clear Vision, Duncan Systems (Atwwod), All-Rite, Motion. All-Rite $600+. Motion $230 plus crating & shipping. 5 week lead time. Anybody have experience with Motion in Washington state? Rough dimensions to fill in RV: 12 1/8"H x 59 1/8"W x 7/8"D. 2 1/2" radius corners. Most manufacturers were unable to the build the 2 1/2" radius corners and/or the 59+W. I have some filon damage from water leak from window. Looking at epoxy injection system from delam.com. Also scrapping out junk & spraying in foam. This would hopefully stabilize the rotted area. Welcome comments. Thanks for any input.

Thanks. My situation has become a nightmare. I have decided my frame has been modified at some time. The riveted plate system I have allows movement of the frame making a permanent seal impossible. On the back side of frame you can see where a grinder was used to I assume someone cut off the bracket system you have where rivets are hidden. If you can recall could you describe the back side of the frame and how the brackets/rivets are constructed? Is there a piece coming off the frame at 90 degrees? Frames from any year of the WT321 are no longer available. I looked for junk yards but no luck. I'm going to try Winnebago corporate to see if maybe a detailed drawing is available of the frame. If I can get that maybe I can have mine welded back to get some rigidity. All thoughts are welcomed.

Took my window with frame out today. My frame is riveted on one end only. There's a mating plate that riveted to both to both sides of the frame where it's split. The plate rides on top & not too attractive. Seems like maybe it should be below making the exposed frame edge more flat & attractive with only rivets showing. Do you have a riveted joining plate? If yes does it ride above or is it hidden below? I haven't drilled rivets out yet. I'm thinking your seal may be just a different design and may work with my frame. Gonna call some W dealers tomorrow & ask. Thanks.

Dang. Sorry to hear about the bite. Hope you get better soon!!

Curious, which seal does Sunrader use?

CONGRATULATIONS!! Good job of staying with it!! Question, are the injectors the original Densos or the rebuilt Flame Throwers? Did you clean the fuel rail too? Guess you think it was a clogged number 4 injector?

Found a supplier on ebay for outdoor UV rated scratch resistant smoke polycarbonate - LEXAN MARGARD SOLAR GRAY MR-10 POLYCARBONATE SHEET 1/8" x 60" x 12" - for $85 plus shipping. As Darrel has experienced it is actually .118" thickness not 1/8". They'll cut to size for free and will do radius cuts for a fee. Anybody have an idea on how to figure out corner radius required? Anybody have experience with scratch resistant MR10 poly? Thanks.

Thanks Darrell. After comparing your pictures with my window I see as Linda has indicated I have a totally different system. My seal rides up over the frame with a half moon shape. So when you look at my window you see black metal frame like yours then the additional rubber half moon seal then the window. One end of the frame is riveted together like yours. I've got filon damage below part of the window where water has entered. I've got to redo the bunk area on one side where the water exited. Thanks all.

When getting the Lexan cut you gave shop W x L dimensions with edge radius degrees? What info do I give to get proper edge cut? So your new seal was actually designed for thicker glass but worked with thinner glass because new? F4 windshields is a manufacturer of custom poly windshields in Ohio. I've seen them at motorcycle shows with a display with steel wool on a wiper blade going across windshield surface with no scratches. Going to see if I can source flat sheet of this & get it cut. Cee Bailey in Ca. is another manufacturer of motorcycle & aircraft windshields using acrylic plastic. Thanks.

I've got a 94 Jeep Cherokee with inline 6 cylinder with 260K miles with mostly Walmart Brand dino 10w-30. Engine has never been apart & runs great. Got a good deal on some synthetic & this is where I found increased oil consumption. Went back to dino or semi S when price is good.