bigtiki

I had to get an adapter to go from the two lines that come from forward to go into a block, t. The third leg of the t went into the transaxle via a flex hose. I hooked it up anjd it got dark so I quit. Then I realized in the middle of the night, that the return line that goes forward, had to be blocked to get maximum pressure to the rear brakes. \ I had a helper pump the brakess. Fluid came out one of the lines way more than the other. I logically figured this one to be the feed line. I had a new fitting , male on one end and female 10 mm on the other. I inserted this new loop on the return line. It makes a loop, and in the middle of the loop I crushed the line with vice grips. This time when bleeding the rear brakes I got a stream that seemed as strong as the front wheel cylinders. I bled all the brakes. The pedal came up high, and when I tested it at slow and high speed , it worked GREAT. The nose no longer dives and it stops quicker than ever. I can only assume that the rear brakes were not working at all, and my unfamiliarity with the vehicle prevented me from realizing the rear brakes were not working AT ALL. I hope this helps others. I couldn't get an explanation from anyone here how to do it. Maybe there is a simper way. This seemed to work for me.

Does your transaxle get warm? How about the hubs. If mine gets any warmer, I may do the bearings. I would like anyones thoughts. Thanks!

I see mileage claims from 15 to almost 30 mpg. 4 cylinder with a stick? I'd like some real numbers! My 6cylinder 1985 model Sunrader so far has got only 15, but the front brakes were dragging so it may improve. Mine is on the rack, getting new brake components, a new fender, and other deferred maintainence. I am going to sell it when all is repaired. I want to know what units get the best mileage as I intend on going overland all the way to Panama. I am traveling solo and may even buy a Vanagon or other vehicle.

The job is not finished. The new lines will be in on Monday, and as soon as i bleed the brakes I will let you know. May be mid week.

Never You mind. I removed the proportional unit, and tied the two incoming lines together with a T fitting that has a flex line on it. All are 10mm. I had it made up at Carquest for $30 bucks. Looks like it will work fine. NAPA wanted me to convert everything to SAE fittings, and it was not as simple, with more possibilities of leaks.

So can I buy a three opening union at Napa? The unit has an intake, return to the front brakes, and the feed for the rear. Is there a toyota part? I have never done a brake bypass before. Thanks

My back brakes were not working well, and while bleeding them I discovered little pressure was getting to the rear. Now it appears the proportional valve is leaking. Junk yards may not be a good source, as the parts are old as mine. I adjusted the number two rear shackle as described in the manual on page 687 of 1025. The shop manual is found on this site, I really need to just shunt it. I found previous posts where members did this with good results. How do I rebuild it? Anyone seen parts? Does anyone know haw to rig it "wide open" for the back brakes? One post said there was a fix on the site but i can't find it. Should I go to a machine shop and have them mill out a block of aluminum? Thanks Chuck

I just was talking to a MH mechanic, and he says that the flexible line leading to the valve in your second photo is suspect if the bleeding pressure is low, or the brakes are not working properly. He says the ones on Chevys are even worse than Toyotas, and he has seen many that are constricted and collapsed on the inside, but look fine on the outside. How can you tell that valve is in the UP position???. I take it the valve is in the second picture.

I am following up to this post: Brakes on 1987 Sunrader lock up after replacement I have an 87 Sunrader. My front right caliper was hanging up. I replaced the caliper. Better, but still hanging up. I replaced the master cylinder. It worked- the caliper is retracting...but while bleeding the brakes , the rear ones were acting like I've never seen on a bleed procedure- weird- both of the rear cylinders were just barely oozing fluid even though the brake pedal was being pumped at full strength by my lovely assistant. I will assume this is because of that dag-nabbit proportion valve. Now it seems the pedal is just not as firm. I want to remove the rear proportion valve....so the rears are at full braking capacity all the time. Suggestions on replacement? Can I just buy a T fitting at NAPA, or what? Thanks to all!

I just bought a 1985 Sunrader. Previous owner replaced the pads. I am having the same issue....The front left is locking up. On closer inspection, the boob did not replace the bushings that the caliper floats on. They were removed, and the caliper is "floating" on what is left of the rubber inside the caliper housing. I read an article (wiki) that states the single caliper brake will grab if the pins, or in our case, bolts, are bent, or the bushings are not lubricated. I expected mine to be dry...but they were missing. Having trouble finding replacement parts...may have to buy whole caliper asembly.