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Lias

Toyota Advanced Member
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Posts posted by Lias

  1. Hi I am trying to install a Maxxfan 4000k plus to replace original vent in bathroom (1994 winnebago). Everytime I try to connect it it blows the 15 fuse. When I disconnect and put new fuse without connecting fan the lights on its side work. Should I go up to 20 fuse ? I've replaced my lights with LEDs if that makes difference. I have original power converter too.

     

    I'm not electrician..just trying to DIY.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. On 6/11/2016 at 5:43 PM, mtdave2 said:

    well it took about 2 hours to put the mach 1 in, was a surprisingly simple job. I think the hardest thing was to slide the unit up to the roof.  here is the old one coming down, worked like a charm. 

    I took a bunch of pictures with the idea of writing up a post, but really It is so simple I wonder if it is worth the effort. 

    Would very much appreciate the write up and pictures if you already have them :) 

    For some of us (me) this might not be so simple...

  3. When i bought my 94 MicroWarrior it had two tanks, the standard and an additional one which I think may also be 17 gals. The secondary feeds the generator. It's been really convenient, especially after having experienced an older '83 22' Lazy Daze which drank fuel like a beast and was built like a tank. I miss the sturdiness of that RV though and wish Lazy Daze would venture into shorter lengths again.

  4. Sorry but yes I mean the box under the sofa (mine used to be under the dinette but I've made changes) Yes, you can connect it to an unused fuse terminal then plug in an appropriate fuse. If just the fan go with 5 or 10 amp as just a safety. If you add more then you will have to add it up but if you put too many things on one circuit a bit of care needs to be used to ensure the wiring is appropriate. For most of this electronic and fan stuff, this is not an issue. A 10 amp fuse would power about 20 of those fans. That is why I explained how to read the power input label. Then it is as easy as adding it up and giving it at least a 20% margin on the supply fuse. I get that not everyone understands electricity even though DC is the easiest in many ways. I did also post this in the DIY section but happy to help explain it.

    Great, I will go and read that in DIY too. Many thanks again!

  5. I think I might have figured out why it has become so hard to find TV's with external power supplies. Energy Star ratings. Just a guess. The cheaper manufacturer's probably don't care about the rating so you will find some. The task however is arduous at best. Scouring the web and looking at the pictures to see if you can tell if there is a power brick or wall wart. If not take the top half dozen small tv's you might be interested in and search for the model number plus manual. The manual will have pictures of how to set it up, what is included and like the fan, will list the voltage at the DC input.

    Here is a Element one I found at Amazon. Look at the pictures and you will note there is a power plug that says DC 12V. Don't know the size of the plug however but worst case you can cut the cable off the brick and splice it in if it is not 2.1mm. Walmart and I think Kmart sells this brand also. Back to my original suggestion. Hit up the big box stores and have a look at the backs for a 12V plug.

    Here is a guy who posted this video on youtube just back in April from a set he got at Walmart.

    Nice, I will look at that one too. And splice it to that little terminal adapter.

  6. A quick search found a series of LG TV's with external power supplies but there is a problem. They are 19 volt not 12 volt.

    lg_tv.png

    The solution is a buck converter. These are available on the web including Amazon and come in up convert and down convert. They are typically a small PC board with an input and output and are either programmable or have a simple adjustment mechanism. You just have to pick the appropriate one for converting higher or lower voltage and selecting one that has enough current output to drive the device.

    You can find smaller current ones starting at less the $6. Here is one from Amazon that is about $16. It is rated for 6 amps and will take an input between 4.5 - 45 volts and output anywhere from 5 - 60 volts.

    The buck converter looks like a piece of candy to me - that or a lego. This part is definitely going to take more brain power to understand.

    Regarding size of tv, I'm thinking 19-22" or so. I was also thinking of one of those combo DVD units but that might be even harder to find as a regular tv. I will start looking at best buy now that I know what to look for.

  7. TV's are becoming increasingly harder to find with external power supplies like the one I installed in the RV. That said, the way you tell what the voltage and polarity of most devices is usually the really tiny label (I wish they'd stop that) on the power supply or often on the device itself at the DC input plug.

    Lets start with the simple one, the fan. On the fan next to the plug it has a little label saying 12vdc, 500mA with a picture above that shows the outer portion of the plug ring as the - (minus or ground) and the inside center as + (positive). The plugs I bought at Amazon match and are also marked. Center is + and outside ring is -. In my case I ran some two conductor lamp cord. You can get that at home depot. It is very flexible and you'll notice there is one side that is ribbed. I use this side for the ground connection and the other the positive. The connections are held in place by the screw terminals. I wired it directly into the DC section of my power center along with a few other devices. In fact I ran the wiring to a few locations so that I could use the fan in the window near the sink, dinette (couch is there right now) and berth. I just plug in and turn the fan on. What I like about this particular fan is even on high speed, its current draw is only about a half an amp which is very little for the amount of air it moves. Hope this is making sense.

    fan_02.jpg

    Now the TV. This is more complicated because I had to find it first. I also installed it a couple years ago (yes I know, I'm just getting caught up now with sharing). I shop online quite a bit including a site called Woot. They often have various refurb items and I had been looking for a TV because the wife wanted it. One day they had several different sizes and when looking through the pictures, I noticed there was an external power supply on this one. Still, that meant nothing. I had to go to the Visio web site and download the manual. In the specification it listed the voltage as 12 volts and I was good to go. As I type this, I already feel like I'm not helping. If you want to do something similar, here is what I would suggest. Hit some of the big box stores like best buy or walmarts and look at the small TV's on display. See if any have an external power supply. Bring your reading glasses cause the labels are going to be small. Here is the one for the Visio. Notice just like the fan, it lists the output of the power supply as 12V (it should say DC but the solid line with the dashed line below indicate DC) and 4.58 A.

    tv_power2.jpg

    In the end, you might be stuck either buying a no-name just to get a DC powered TV or going the inverter route. My post was more about thinking in terms of the most power efficient way. It's the holiday tomorrow and I've family coming. We are having a camping get together in my back yard. Seems like the only way I'm going to be able to camp these days. If I have time next week, I'll do a bit of searching and will see what I can find. Who knows, maybe there is still something out there. As a refurb this Visio was really cheap. Perhaps some others might chime in with something that will work.

    Quick addition and question. What size range?

    Thanks again for the lengthy explaination @Back East Don. I read through your info. twice - will probably need to read again to fully understand it but at least now I know how to tell if the electronic is 12v, look at the back and the Output. I've always looked back there but it's been jargon to me until now.

    And you used the lamp 2 conductor cable from the home depot to extend the 12v wiring so you could plug in your fan at multiple locations - using the ribbed part as the ground. That's cool - pun intended - and it seems pretty easy to do - except for the part about the DC section of your power center. Do you mean the box under (my) sofa with all the fuses? If so, do you just connect the cable to an unused fuse terminal? Is that how you add an extra 12v power outlet?

    Thanks for the pictures, they are very helpful.

  8. @Back East Don - I'm a bit clueless when it comes to knowing if something runs 12 volt like your Visio. How can you tell? Which model is it, did it have 12 volt/DC listed on the features list? Usually I only see the Naxa, Axess and Skyworth brands and I haven't read that many great reviews on them.

    I also don't quite understand how you use that plug from Amazon to connect to your O2 Cool fan especially when that plug portion doesn't look like it would fit in the 12 volt plug of an rv? I know I'm missing something really obvious.

    I think you are right on about having devices that run at 12 volts rather than 120 and an inverter. I just wish I understood this better.

  9. why have a generator? if you want electricity.... and you boondock.

    as for high elevation, the honda has replacement main jets for use at elevations about 4500'

    I spent a summer in colorado once - easy to change and makes it run good without carbon fouling. All engines lose power as you go up in elevation. I did not plug in for several months - run the gen about a hour or 2 a day does the trick ( i use the internet a lot)

    I think a generator is worthwhile - I wouldn't mind using it except for the fact that it is hella loud and I feel really bad running it when I have neighbors so I don't. That's why I'm interested in a quieter model like the Honda/Yamaha.

    Good to know about the replacement jets for higher elevations.

  10. I haven't removed mine cause I'm just too lazy. I don't even have air conditioning. I pulled that off years ago. Probably should get to the gen set and save the weight.

    Linda S

    I still have my air conditioner because I live in Arizona and have yet to retire, so unable to venture too far on the weekends.

    I'm trying to find a 2.5 kohler .

    Really?

  11. The Coleman Polar Cub AC unit keeps coming up because you can run it with a Honda EU2000i. I have a Kohler too and surprise. I have compared it to an Onan and they are almost just as loud. I have also camped next to people running a Honda and I had to walk over to be sure it was running. Nice. Drawback is you have to pick it up and put it on the ground every time you use it unless it's on a bumper platform.

    Linda S

    I'm almost not wanting to bother taking it in to the shop to fix the atrocious sound. I really like the idea of the Honda except for the fact that you have to take it out and chain it up to use it. I've had the Toy for about three years now and I think I've run the generator maybe three times while camping. And in higher elevations it's been useless. I'm seriously thinking of removing it and maybe converting the hole where it is into something I can use for storage.

    Why have you kept yours?

    Another item I'd like to change is the furnace. I think I'd like to have a propane line added to the inside so I can use a catalytic heater like the Olympian. I've heard they use less juice electrically and propane which is helpful when you have just one house battery.

  12. For far less than an Onan you could buy a smaller AC unit that would run on 1 Honda 2000. In an RV less is more

    Linda S

    Linda S, do you have an air conditioner that you would recommend? The Coleman Polar Cub keeps coming up in searches as an option.

    I'm in a similar boat as the OP. I have the original Kohler 2.5K generator and it is so loud when I run it that my dogs freak out not to mention how it annoys the neighbors. Due to this fact I don't even use the thing. I asked my local RV mechanic what he thought and he said if it runs you may just need a muffler. He said I shouldn't get rid of it - my initial request - since it's running and for resale. I don't plan on selling anytime soon.

  13. Wow, thank you very much @Back East Don for the great information, especially since I hadn't even considering adding up what I will use.

    Based on this information I will go for the 45 amp as well since I do plan on using a 12 volt tv down the line as well as a Maxx Fan.

    Have a great evening.

  14. I realize this is an old post but which 4600 series replacement should I get for a 93/94 V6 Winnebago? There are three options, 35, 45 or 55 AMP and why?

    I realize this is a newbie question but I would like to replace mine based on the information I've read in this post. Thanks for bringing this up and for providing links to the products, that's been real helpful.

    I also thought this was an informative video on the subject:

  15. Thank you all very much for the information. I just did a search and came up with the following:

    http://www.rvwholesalers.com/catalog/heavy-duty-insert-trim-1-x-25-white.html?gclid=COLWzK-nusMCFYWFfgodF0sALg

    The insert trim is in pretty good condition and long. I figure I will try the heat it up with hair dryer first as Ace57 suggested. It's still in good condition and the other side is fine.

    Thanks again for setting me off in the right direction, it's very much appreciated!

  16. One more comment about valves. When rubber & metal valves came into high use for heavy truck wheels with pressures 80 PSI and up - there was one type that had a high failure rate and got subject to a recall. I've never seen any of the bad recalled ones - but the valve on top in the photo is the type that failed often. The type on the bottom is what is commonly used now and is what all my trucks and my Toyota have.

    Thank you so much for those pictures. It really helps. I'm going to check mine and then I guess replace the valves (if they aren't these types) with the ones on the tirerack.com site: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=208

    I'm assuming I would get one of these that is 2"?

    600HP 80 1.27 0.453 or 602HP 80 2.00 0.453

    And the 4" valve extenders labeled part #8029vs along with the stem supports.

    My toy currently has these extenders but one side is leaking. I'm not sure if they are original or the previous owner put them on.

    They have that attachement to hold the extender down which I hope to reuse with new extenders.

  17. I still don't know what to get :huh:

    These?

    http://yourtireshopsupply.com/category/796_830/wheel-size-1920

    Is this similar to a bolt in metal valve stem?

    http://www.alcoa.com/alcoawheels/north_america/en/info_page/accessories_hd_valve_stem_ext.asp

    I'm not sure what my wheel size is if my tire is 185R14LT and based on all the info I've read am I not supposed to mix rubber with metal stem extensions?

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