terrieo

Anyone out there from around Alton, IL or St Louis MO area that know reliable body shop repair shop for these toyota dolphins? Lost left lower side panel & supports from back wheels back & Part of sewer line & back bumper damage from tow when had double blowout on way to midwest rally. Want to be able to take it to someone who knows how to work on these & has good rep. Also want to say sorry to anyone my travel mates might have offended, known them all my life but didn't know they would be such bad travelers & campers, the mishap really made them act out & I am sorry if they acted it out on any of you because they sure did on me! Traveling with them was worse than having the blowout! Please advise any known repairmen in my area, I live in Jerseyville, IL about 45 mi north of St Louis, MO. Thanks!

The incoming cold water lines come in from tank & city port then go under breaker box & furnace T off to water heater then both hot & cold go up in shower wall & T again inside wall up around behind stove to kitchen sink, can I put the new cold lines in T-ing away from under breaker box & the more directly to kitchen sink, before it goes to the water heater, (as don't know yet when will get a working water heater), then to BR shower, sink & toilet, leaving enough line to T into water heater later, & can I T Hot out of water heater one side to bathroom & other to kitchen sink instead of having to go up into shower wall & around behind the stove to the sink? Also does anyone know what kind of seal & flange I need to reinstall the thetford aqua magic iv toilet? they had put new plywood over rotten floor & put a sawed off flange on top of the original deep necked flange, (I think from length & what I could feel when stuck my hand down in there bottom one is one of those long necked twist- in flanges like lowe's sells), even though bottom flooring around it is rotten I have not been able to get it to come up out of the tank on one side to get it all the way out. What kind of tanks does 1990 Dolphin have as per coleman sight cannot use some tank fitting on poly that can use on ABS tanks? Thx all for your help!

Thx guys, I've been leaving unplugged while working on water lines, can I replace the other old outlets with GFCI's? Also, there was a white elec cable from closet under BR sink across under shower floor into wall between shower & up behind stove, is this way should be or should it be moved? The white covering was either rubbed or chewed through at one point but i checked & no interior wires damaged so I taped with elec tape & put one of those plastic wire covers over it, is that good enough? The water line is ran under the converter box & under furnace, isn't that asking for trouble? Should I move water line away from them while i'm plumbing, see question i'm posting other forum about plumbing please. Thx for all your help guys, I'm finding more & more big things wrong, think this may have sat in water or else they ignored leaks a looong time, gettin kind of scary, but your advise has been a god send! Thx again.

Ok guys, I replaced the double 15 breaker with same type, still hums, but quits after awhile & box does not get hot, the hum sounds like it is coming from the thing in the space below the breakers,,RV manual just states converter will be warm when in use so don't store flam ables next to it. It is a Magnetek 25 amp power converter with baterry charger with 3 amp charge ratio Ser A Model 6325 3.9 amps 120 vac 60 Hz, Max ouput 30 amps 120 vac. So does anyone know if it just hums when its recharging as it only gets a lettle warm to the touch as book states but has never gotten hot even with the a/c running? Is Magnetek still an existing company, haven't founf any links to it? Thx. TerrieO

5Toyota, Thx so much for the quick answer, I thought that didn't sound right, my dad's moto was always "replace it with what came out of it unless a professional tells ya different"! Some guys always think cus your a woman you'll take any answer when they don't know the right one! That's why I'm taking one of my big mean looking (really goodhearted) male friends with me when I take her in for checkup on brakes & tune-up check! I learned to do that with my Toyota Tacoma truck then I have no problems & a lot lower bill! Have a good evening! TerrieO.

Can't get a bryant type brd bd 15-15 breaker in town, guys at Farm & Home store & RP Lumber said it would be ok (even better) to replace it with a BRD 20-20 breaker. Can anyone tell me if this is correct? Need to get this done to see if humming stops when breaker changed, please advise today if poss as going to bigger town to Lowe's tomorrow for water line stuff & will look for 15-15 breaker there if need to. Thx much. TerrieO

Maineah, Can't find anything on my fridge parts diagram called a 120 V Heater, can u tell me what part that may be shown on diagram that its next to maybe, or maybe should I just have the LP gas guy check it? I've never done any elec or gas fixin before, have only replaced all plumbing in house, my dad did all the camper repairs when he was living, but I'm learning, found out 1 thing though, I'm too out of shape to do the contortions I had to do to get the bathroom sink out!

Vanman & Maineah, Thx for your suggestions, I did check wires on buss bar, all were tight. Can't get the 15/15 breaker here in town, guys at Farm & Home & RP Lumber both told me would be ok to replace with a 20/20 breaker, in fact would be better. Is this true?

Eureka!!! I changed the GFCI outlet & now the outlets work, except when turn the gas/elec fridge on that came with RV, it throws the GFCI switch off, so I plugged in the little fridge from my other camper into the GFCI & it ran without throwing it off, so the old fridge will be coming out. I checked the breaker box & all white wires are on one strip & a green & severl bare wires are on the other strip, however on the outside back of the fuse box side there is a strip that has a bare wire coming from breaker box hooked to one end of it, a bare wire coming up thru floor hooked to other end of it, & white wires coming from under the box hooked in between the two bare wires, is this right? Gen Purpose breaker that runs the outlets still hums when on so I am going to replace it tomorrow & if it still hums then I'll figure it is the one charging the battery circuit as John Mc said. Until I can get a new RV fridge I'll just use my small electric one when parked & my coleman plug in cooler when on the road. Thx John & Maineah. TerrieO

It must be the breaker humming because it only hums when that 15 Gen purpose breaker is on. Is that General Purpose breaker supposed to be charging the battery? I didn't rec a manual for the converter with the rest of the manuals. The GFCI outlet has the reset/test button stuck in on one side so I am going to replace that, as the sniff tester show current there but nothing works plugged into it & it is the closest to the breakers. On the fuse side of the box, everything on the ac side works, there is a 15 fuse plugged in on the dc side but there is nothing actually attached to it, what is usually there? I.m going to change that GFCI today &see what happens, if still not working the outlets willhave to wait until I'm done with the plumbing & BR floor as I need to get that done asap. Plumbing I'm familiar with, have never done much with electricity except putting new switches or outlets in my older home. Thx for you help, it is much appreciated, & thx to everyone else who has replied. Will llet you know what I find out.

John, Did everything you said, wire to the Gen Purp half of the double 15 breaker pulled easily out of the twist cap, so I fixed that, (I think), all the breakers tested 121-122 individually. Is the converter supposed to hum when that Gen purpose breaker is on? It didn't stop humming this time so I turned it back off. I used that sniffer stick thing on the individual outlets, the only one that showed it had ant poer to it was a white GFCI oulet mounted next to pump switch on front of sink counter, but nothing works when I plug it onto it. this is with air cond shut off. Should I goahead & replace that 15 gen purp breaker since it hums? I think I'm going to end up calling a friend who has a friend whose retired electrician or my cooling & heating guy to look at it.

The A/C in the Rv roof works on the eletric whenRV is plugged into the 20 amp outlet on the outside of my house. Also tried the RV outlets & fridge when A/C was off & they will not work.

Can I replace the hard plastic water lines in this with softer food & beverage grade line from Farm & Home? Clamps I have acess to will not clam tight enough on current grey lines & have to replace joints or pipe where meets under shower wall so thought would just replace all to be on safe side. Please any advise? Thx so much,

Hi! Only thing so far I've found in handling is that on sharp right turns get popping creaking noise in front end. Have a friend whose car did this & she was told it was because car sat for 5 yrs in garage of survivng spuose & some lines stiffened up, they have never recommended fixing it. Any ideas what this could be before I take to shop for overall checkup, would like a heads up before go as some mechanics think women are a free ride for any costly repair they want to do! Please advise. Thx, TerrieO

Thanks John Mc, had leveled on driveway with those plastic blocks, had hooked up to house with the heavy black cord came with & a new converter plug (spare from popup), not getting warm, breaker in house not thrown as A/C still running, Have 4 breakers in converter box, Main 30 ,A/C 20, then a double 15 marked Microwave & general purpose, ( will have to trace line on microwave one to see which outlet goes to as no microwave in it), the general purpose half hummed for a minute then quit when flipped back on (does this mean breaker is bad?) Outlets still don't work. Really need to get outlets working as LP lines to everything real degraded & rusted so will be replacing fridge with electric unit until cann afford to have LP lines replaced, so won't be using anything LP anytime soon. Oh Lord the water lines! Didn't get past turning on the city water (yes, had regulator on hose, remebered some stuff from camping with my pops, he would've loved working on this with me!), found where the big leak is, coud hear water hitting wall in shower, there is leak or crack right at connection where kitchen line hooks into bathroom lines at under wall by stove & under shower, Took out the shower pan last night, can I replace these hard lines with softer water & drink fountain grade line from Farm & Home ( the clamps I can get do not clamp tight enough onto that grey pipe in RV, found that out when fixing broken br faucet), think I'll just replace all the water lines while I'm under there as that seems to be the hardest spot to get to, also do I have to buy showerpan from camper place or will somewhere like Lowe's have one that fits it? The one I removed has small crack in it where one of bolts look like tightened too far, or do u think I can just seal that from under side? I also have to replace flooring under there as apparently been leaking long time & floor is totally rotten, hope I don't have to replace whole bathroom floor, it seems pretty firm. Been reading the forums & taking notes, any advise on this stuff is extremely welcome as I will have to do most of it myself & figure it out as I go,,, kind of scared about tearing into that floor though, Please anyone advise with any suggestions, I don't want to make anthing worse as would like to go to that mid-west rally in Sept, am excited to get suggestions & ideas in person. Thx again John for your help, it is invaluable! TerrieO.

Hi everyone! I've only had pop-up before, know nothing about RV"s, manual not very helpful, never got to talk to prev owner, I plugged it up to outside house outlet when I got it home, freezer on fridge was getting cool & nightlight in BR was on, A/C was running, then nightlight went out & fridge quit cooling, didn't know how old battery was so put in new one & replaced all the fuses in converter box, but none of the outlets or fridge will work. Also are there any other drain valves I need to close besides the ones under the cabinet that would cause leakage around gray water tank? Found them & think I closed them, hard to tell, will try tomorrow am if not so hot to see if that stops the leak, pray so, as already fixed broken faucet leak in br & apparently there for awhile as floor under sink will have to be fixed. Hoping since I fixed that & closed valves won't see water running off gray tank again. Will be extemely grateful for any advise. Also what are those airbag things & is that what the 2 plugs on side near door are to? Sorry, didn't find anything in manual about that. Thx again for any help!!! TerrieO.